THE PERFECT GARDEN 



1 




^ . %^ ' 




THE PERFECT GARDEN 

HOW TO KEEP IT BEAUTIFUL 
AND FRUITFUL 

WITH PRACTICAL HINTS ON ECONOMICAL 

MANAGEMENT AND THE CULTURE OF 

ALL THE PRINCIPAL FLOWERS, FRUITS 

AND VEGETABLES 



ILLUSTRATED WITH COLOURED PLATES 
ENGRAVINGS, AND PLANS 



BY 

WALTER P. WRIGHT 

HORTICULTURAL SUPERINTENDENT UNDER THE KENT COUNTY COUNCIL 

AUTHOR OF "pictorial PRACTICAL GARDENING" 

AND EDITOR OF CASSELL'S "DICTIONARY OF PRACTICAL GARDENING" 



PHILADELPHIA 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

LONDON: GRANT RICHARDS 

1908 



^^'> 






CONTENTS 



PROLOGUE 

PAGE 

Dream Gardens ....... i 



PART I 

THE OUTLOOK 

CHAP. 

I. The Soul of the Garden . . . . . n 

II. Design, and the Home-Made Garden . . t8 

III. The Cost of Gardening 24 

IV. Specialism in Gardening ..... 32 
V. How to Learn Gardening 37 

VI. The Conquest of the Wild .... 44 

PART II 

THE FLOWER GARDEN 

I. Colour for all Seasons 69 

II. Hardy Herbaceous Plants ..... 93 
III. Rockeries . . . . . . . .106 



VI 



CONTENTS 



CHAP. 

IV. Rose Beauty .... 
V, Picture Beds .... 
VI. The Water Lily Pool 
VII. Beauty of Climbers and Creepers 
VIII. Tree and Shrub Beauty . 
IX. Bulb Beauty .... 
X. Some Special Flowers and how 

them ..... 
XI. Garden Auxiliaries . 
XII. Garden Enemies .... 



to 



Use 



PART III 



GLASS HOUSES 



I. Plant Houses 
II. Fruit Houses 



PART IV 

THE FRUIT GARDEN 

I. Why we should Grow Fruit 
II. A Complete Fruit Garden 

III. When and how to Make the Fruit Garden 

IV. What Varieties of Fruit to Choose 

V. Pruning Fruit Trees 



CONTENTS vil 

PART V 

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

CHAP. PAGE 

I. Why we should Grow Vegetables . . -3^9 

II. A Complete Kitchen Garden .... 325 

III. How TO Grow the Principal Vegetables . 340 

INDEX 365 

PLANS -369 



!i 



1 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



IN COLOUR 

A Grass Walk Between Borders of Poppies, 
Delphiniums, Madonna Lilies, and other 
Old-Fashioned Flowers .... Frontispiece 

From a water-colour drawmg by Lilian Stannard 

Flower Borders and Rose Arch in a New 

Garden Facing p. 44 

From a ivater-colour drawing by E. P. Rowe 

Colour Groups under an Old Wall . , „ 64 ^ 

From a water-colour drawing by E. P. Rowe 

Colour Grouping with Michaelmas Daisies, 
Hollyhocks, Sunflowers, Torch Lilies, 
Japanese Anemones, etc ,, 88 

From a water-colour drawing by Lilian Stannard 

A Charming Rock Garden . . . . „ 106 

From a water-colour drawing by Lilian Stannard 

A Rose Garden „ wd ^ 

From a water-colour drawing by Lilian Stannard 



\ 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



IN BLACK AND WHITE 



A Group of Flower Beds on the Outskirts 
OF A Lawn, with Trees in the Back- 
ground 

An Example of the Formal Garden, High- 
clere Castle, Newbury, the Seat of 
the Earl of Carnarvon . 

Delphinium Beauty of Langport, White 

A Clump of Double White Pyrethrum . 

Delphinium True Blue .... 

A Good Clump of the Charming White Pink 
Mrs. Sinkins ..... 

LiLiuM Giganteum 

Eremurus Himalaicus .... 

Yucca Gloriosa (Adam's Needle) 

Cerastium Biebersteini : a Silvery-leaved, 

Free-flowering Plant for the Rockery 

Saxifraga Wallacei, a Popular Rockery Plant 

Crimson Rambler Rose Growing over an Old 
Tree ........ 

Rose Fj^licite Perp^tue on a House Wall . 

A Clump of the Pretty Annual Viscaria 
OCULATA 

Rhododendrons 

Something like a Rhododendron 



Facing p. 40 



84 
86^ 

102 
104 

112 
114 

124 
130 • 

136 

158 
160 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

White Indian Azaleas .... 

Magnolia Conspicua as a Pot Plant 

A SPLENDID Clump of Spir^a Aruncus . 

A Clump of the Meadow Saffron, Colchicum 
Autumnale, in a Border . 

A Good Dark Form of Lilium Auratum 

A Border of Silver-variegated Zonal Ger 
aniums, with Pentstemons behind . 

A Clump of Madonna Lilies (Lilium Can 
didum) ....... 

Double Coloured Primroses . 

The Beautiful White Lilium Speciosum 
Kraetzeri ...... 



XI 

Facing p. 162 
164 
166 

184 
192 



212 
212 

240 



PLANS 

Ground Plan of Complete Garden (About Four 

Acres) 370 

Ground Plan of Complete Garden (About Two 

Acres) 372 

Ground Plan of Complete Garden (About One 

Acre) 374 

Ground Plan of Quarter Acre Suburban Complete 

Garden ......... 376 

Kitchen Garden with Glass and Fruit (About Two 

Acres) 378 

Herbaceous Border, etc., on Outskirts of Lawn 
WITH Background of Flowering Trees and 
Shrubs 380 



Xll 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



WITH 



Herbaceous Double-Borders arranged as to Colour 

Herbaceous Border at Corner on Outskirts of 
Lawn, Showing System of Arrangement of 
Patches of Tall amongst Dwarf Plants 

Simple Rockery — Ground Plan and Section 

Rock Garden — Ground Plan and Section 

Rose Garden on Grass or Gravel, Preferably 
Stone Edging to the Beds . 

Rose Garden of Beds and Arches on Grass 

Water Lily Pond (Cemented) ... 

Water Lily Pond (Clayed) — Ground Plan 
Section 

Plain Pergola Bounding Lawn-Tennis Ground 

Rustic Pergolas — Ground Plan and Elevations 

Shrubbery and Planting Arrangement 

Wall-Enclosed Semi-Urban or Suburban Fruit 
Garden with Glass Houses 

Fruit Plantation, Mixed (About Two Acres) . 



and 



382 

384 
386 
388 

390 
392 

394 

396 

398 

400 
402 

404 
406 



PROLOGUE 

DREAM GARDENS 

Dream Gardens, and yet real gardens — the gardens 
which have been seen in past days, and the fragrant 
essence of which, expressed in the still of memory, 
comes back with tenfold sweetness, to give us the 
impulse for making beautiful gardens of our own. 

Time deals very kindly with these gardens of our 
dreams. It winnows out all the little sharp husks of 
imperfection — the weedy corner, the ill-placed shrub- 
bery, the incongruous bed — and preserves only the solid 
grains of general effect, of collective beauty. It invests 
them with a golden glamour. 

My '' dream gardens " are those which I see again 
by the winter fireside. The lawn outside may be deep 
in snow, but in fancy it is flooded with sunlight, and 
the heart of the countryside is palpitating with the 
passion of life. The dreary present is forgotten, and 
I live in a past that is green with the Spring garment 
of the forests, and glowing with the Summer livery of 
gardens. 

I dream of a fair Kentish garden, within a mile or 
two of sleepy Hythe. I see it as I saw it first, at dawn 
on a June morning. I had come to it fresh from fierce, 
chill Highland dawns. I had gone from Stirling to 
Bannockburn, from Bannockburn to Aberfoyle, and 
then through the gleaming heather hills to the sides of 
Loch Vennachar. From Callander I had steered for Loch 

A 



2 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Lubnaig and Lochearnhead, then passed through Glen 
Dochart to Tyndrum and Dahnally, made the northern 
curve of mighty Loch Awe, and so gained the shores 
of Loch Etive and Oban. There, in the June morning, 
the grey mists cHng late to the twin peaks of Ben 
Cruachan, separating themselves slowly and reluctantly 
from the departing shadows of night ; and when dawn 
breaks at length over lake and mountain — over the lofty 
summit of Ben Eunaich, over the wild slopes of the 
Pass of Brander, over the shining waters of Loch 
Linnhe — it is a dawn of twirling mist-wreaths and opal 
cloud-banks ; a dawn of cold fires, half quenched in 
their birth ; a dawn of titanic struggle between the 
chill vapours that the great hills breed and the ever- 
strengthening beams of the sun. 

In this sweet garden of Kent the dawn breaks with 
the softness of a benison. Tender glows steal over the 
forehead of the Downs, and spread towards the sea. 
The morning lights creep towards the garden with the 
soft, stealing motion of the slow marsh waterways. The 
garden lies almost under the shelter of the Downs — a 
mere thread of valley, shut in to the north by a friendly 
spur, sheltered from the east by a wood, and enjoying 
a climate of its own. Within a mile or two are bleak 
slopes, with a sward that will only support a rough, 
hardy class of stock ; here vegetation is luxuriant. The 
cool, deep, peaty earth, the humid atmosphere, the 
shelter, all combined in one little plot of an acre or 
two, form ideal conditions for rhododendrons and 
azaleas, for rambler roses, for clematises, for daffodils, 
for primulas, for the hundred and one beautiful plants 
that love soft air and moisture. 

The tender dawn lights, penetrating with their soft 
persuasiveness the sheltering belt of tree foliage, fall on 



DREAM GARDENS 3 

banks of rhododendrons — plants as massive as orchard 
apple trees, with flower trusses as large as vases, whose 
great crimson urns glow with hot fire in the fresh 
morning rays. The orange and salmon and cinnamon 
of the azaleas shine like burnished copper. On a tall 
column of wellingtonia, dismantled by a gale, sprawls 
a mountain clematis, its sprays of palHd flowers clinging 
to the worn, brown trunk like a babe to a peasant 
grandmother. A splash of purplish red by the side of 
running water indicates a colony of Japanese primroses 
{primula japonicd), and on a wild bank the last flowers 
of a colony of poet's narcissus shine. 

I have seen this garden in all its phases — in Spring, 
in Summer, in shower, in sunshine — but it is as I saw 
it first, in the flush of a June dawn, fresh from the chill 
and ghostly splendour of the Highland mornings, that 
its beauty was most appealing. Then it glowed and 
shone with all the gracious warmth of the South — hot, 
generous, impulsive, irresistible. 

One of the fairest gardens of my winter dreams is 
a rose pleasaunce. Near the half-way stage of a long 
hill in the heart of the Kentish Downs, a range of 
glass houses is seen over the top of a lofty wall. A 
wicket gate invites an entry, and a courteous head 
gardener willingly shows the way to an inner garden, 
also wall enclosed. In the days when royalty held 
the demesne this was a prosaic kitchen garden, but 
later it was turned into a rosery, a fresh vegetable 
garden being made in a place farther from the house. 

There were fruit trees here of old time — gnarled, 
lichen-encrusted veterans, venerable, hoary, but not 
altogether incapable of a slow, hobbly, creaky, joint- 
twisting attempt at bearing every two or three years. 
They were relieved of this onerous duty, and given a 



4 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

lighter one — that of supporting climbing roses — after 
their upper branches had been pruned back. Sweet 
young rose and crabbed old apple — seventeen and 
seventy ! See their wooing in the summer breezes. 
The flower-laden tresses of the rose bend towards the 
weather-beaten trunk, touch it lightly with perfumed 
lips, and then spring away. Sometimes they twine 
themselves around it, and droop their bud-laden crests 
over its grey crown in tender, soothing caresses. On 
boisterous days they are frankly sportive, and lay the 
lash on the flanks of their decrepit steed to a merry 
tune. 

Arches and pergolas span the paths of the rose 
pleasaunce. The long green rods stand erect by the 
brown larch pillars, as vigorous and supple as ash 
saplings ; and the flowering laterals swarm overhead 
like gay tropical birds. Crimson Rambler and Car- 
mine Pillar, Dorothy Perkins and Hiawatha, F61icit^ 
Perp^tue and Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, Ards Rover 
and L'Ideal, Dundee Rambler and Maiden's Blush — 
roses red and roses white, roses copper, carmine, pink, 
crimson, and yellow — fling their sprays from arch to 
arch. It is a riot of roses — a melee of soft, fluttering 
shapes, as full of life, of grace, of swift, sinuous, elusive 
movement, as the play of the fawns in the park beyond 
the walls. 

And I dream of a sweet-pea garden. This has no 
old-time flavour. It does not steal into my winter 
musings with an association of grey, staid orcharding, 
or of stiff yew alleys and sleepy sundials. It is modern, 
strenuous, fiercely vital. The flower is in the fire of 
transformation by the florist, and new varieties pour 
out hotly, like the editions of evening newspapers. 
But the exquisite forms and tender tints are a revela- 



DREAM GARDENS 5 

tion of grace. The wavy " standard," as delicate as a 
tracery of lace, the curved " wings," tinted and shaped 
like the ears of nymphs, have all the appealing charm of 
the soft features of beautiful children. 

It is a dance of butterflies that one sees where the 
rows and clumps of the sweet peas stand. The blossoms 
hover around the sticks like glittering moths, now poising 
themselves immobile, now fluttering away. Daily fresh 
hosts appear, and the more regular the harvest the more 
persistent the crop. The reaper multiplies by reaping. 

I dream, too, of a water garden, lying cool and 
reposeful in the heat haze. I see the great, radiant 
stars of the nymphaeas cushioned in the shadowed water. 
Ripples of light run along the surface, and play among 
the reeds. The slender stems of the sedges sway idly. 
Fat brown stems quiver away into the cool depths. 
Here and there plump, chubby buds peer out, listen, 
and then, unrobing little by little — suspicions only half 
disarmed — disclose an adorable bosom of tender pink. 
The blue nymphaea shows the reflection of an unclouded 
sky, the yellow borrows its delicious shade from the 
Medea rose growing near by. 

The water garden, tree-enclosed, is the playground 
of the shadows, and its tranquil beauty grows- more 
pleasing from its very changefulness. Soft and soothing 
in the hot noontide, it throws a slumberous spell over 
the artist and the reader. And in the still summer 
night it is full of tender whispers. 

Other dreams ! In the raw of an April morning I 
have led my bicycle across the gangway of a Great 
Eastern steamer at the Hook of Holland, and am riding 
towards the Hague. My first objective is Leyden, my 
second, Haarlem. Between the university town and the 
flower capital lie the radiant acres of the bulb farms, 



6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

where, from March to May, the flower-lover may ride 
for miles amid crocuses, daffodils, hyacinths, irises, and 
tulips. The lofty spire of Haarlem's great church stands 
as the central object of a world of flowers. One spends 
a happy morning at Bennebroek, at Hillegom, at Over- 
veen, or at some other sweet flower village ; is drawn 
to a recital on the great Haarlem organ, or to an hour 
with Cuyp in the picture galleries, during the afternoon ; 
and then joyously fills the fragrant spring evening with 
another ride among the flowers. And in the winter 
gloaming sweet remembrances come — of a whole 
countryside burning with the fierce glow of tulips, of 
somnolent windmills, of slow barges creeping along the 
canals, of the perfume of hyacinths in cottage gardens, 
of square, quaintly-clad peasants stolidly staring. 

Or the flower-dream may be of Cornwall, whose 
gardens are as imperishable as her rocks. I ride forth 
from Penzance, and steer towards Land's End. I mount 
a long stiff slope, descend another, cross the high-road 
to St. Just, and on my right find a pretty, flower-covered 
lodge. A long, winding drive, flanked with shrubs, leads 
me into a beautiful pleasaunce, where mighty rhodo- 
dendrons hang out their glowing lanterns of flowers, 
where azaleas glisten and sparkle ; where magnolias, 
pallid as distant stars, shine on bare stems ; where 
golden streamers of forsythia, fiery clusters of crimson 
thorn, and drooping racemes of laburnum, shine ; where 
silvery clematises clothe gnarled pillars ; where larch 
and pine rise in tall columns, where cypresses spread 
plumes of green and bronze. Beside the winding paths 
cushions of coloured primroses, auriculas, and poly- 
anthuses clothe the ground. Anemones sparkle in the 
undergrowth. Colonies of squills, grape and feather 
hyacinths, and forget-me-nots, form happy communities. 



DREAM GARDENS 7 

In the rockeries irises gleam, and broad mats of arabises 
and aubrietias cling to the face of the stones. 

The picture of this fair Cornish garden Hngered with 
me when I stood on the cliffs at Land's End, watching 
the white surf spouting around the Longships lighthouse ; 
and when I picked my way over the stone-strewn but 
beautiful road which leads by Morvah and Zennor to 
St. Ives. But clearer still, and fairer, I see it now, by 
my fireside, on a night of winter tempest. Memory 
paints it in faithful detail, with a brush that lingers 
lovingly. And she brings, on her gentle wings, not 
only the odours of long-dead flowers, but the sweet 
balm of hope, which whispers of roses, and sweet peas, 
and nymphaeas that will come again, when Spring shall 
advance out of the South with the smiles of a bride, 
and turn to reality what now are only dreams. 



PART I 

THE OUTLOOK 



CHAPTER I 

THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 

The garden of reality takes shape gradually from the 
gardens of dreams. Out of the maze of beautiful fea- 
tures which have been seen a few stand out in the 
memory, at first isolated and inchoate, but presently 
blending and merging into a whole. 

The definite plan of a garden is developed almost 
like the conception of a complex human character. 
One is attracted to it, but baffled by it. There is much 
to admire, but little to grasp. Perfect comprehension 
will not come at a bound, and it will not come at all 
unless there is innate sympathy, a measure of intuition, 
and a wide, unprejudiced outlook. 

The trouble lies in the difficulty which people have 
in harmonising the practical with the ideal. In the 
garden, as in the human being, they see certain charac- 
teristics which appeal to their best instincts. The 
beauty of a rose garden stimulates them like the elo- 
quence of a statesman. They find the same intellectual 
pleasure in a good herbaceous border as in the per- 
formance of a great actor. But they find it as difficult 
to imagine that the rose garden is built on ordure as 
to comprehend that the cabinet minister has climbed 
upwards by devious paths of party strategy ; and they 
have no clearer comprehension of the methods by 
which the herbaceous border is put together than they 
have of the secret dressing-room processes by which 



12 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the shaven, square-jawed stroller in the Strand is con- 
verted into the picturesque hero of opera or drama. 

To say that women have the greatest difficulty in 
effecting this harmony is merely to repeat in another 
form the platitude that their emotions outrun their judg- 
ment. Women have the capacity for getting greater 
enjoyment out of gardens than men, but not a greater 
power of forming them. They love flowers, and, for- 
getting that affection does not always suffice, sometimes 
crowd their gardens with far too many kinds. In many 
cases they merely plant them, they do not grow them. 
It is delightful to collect plants in one's travels. The 
flowers are pleasing in themselves, and still more from 
their associations — for the beautiful places, the pleasant 
companions, they recall. But every garden has its limits, 
and a small one quickly becomes so overcrowded that the 
plants suft'er. This does not make for perfect gardens. 

There is nothing more calculated to appeal to the 
ideal in human nature than a beautiful garden, but it 
would be as foolish to confound appreciation with 
creative capacity in gardening as to associate enjoyment 
of music with the ability to sing. There is reality in the 
study of gardening, as in that of music. There is plant 
study, soil study, manure study, tool study behind suc- 
cessful work. There may be something of drudgery 
in it, as in the practising of scales, and in the writing of 
novels. Success rarely comes at a bound. 

A beautiful garden represents the sum of idealised 
human effort on practical lines. It cannot be made out 
of charming phrases. The eloquence of the political 
orator may stir an audience to momentary enthusiasm, 
but unless the speech is based upon Hansard, the Ency- 
clopedia Britannica, a particular blue-book, and certain 
economic truths, the ultimate result will be failure. 



THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 13 

The psychology of a garden might be made as 
interesting a study as the psychology of a human soul 
by a deft anatomist. It is the expression of a human 
spirit, animated by complex feelings — by love, by a 
yearning for the companionship of beautiful and de- 
pendent things, by a vague, indeterminate discontent 
with the earth as it is, by the irresistible impulse to 
find vent for emotions which one is reluctant to expose 
to one's fellows. In gardens is expressed what the 
flower lover is unable to express in painting or in poetry. 
They are the record of an art which the world does not 
see, of verse that it does not hear. 

If a human soul is not coherent, it is because it 
lacks that knowledge of selection and restraint which 
is required to visualise its emotions, and make them 
interesting and helpful to others. Impulses towards 
the ideal are impeded by inaccurate conceptions of the 
real. The actual and the abstract are in conflict. 

The soul of the garden often has the same singular 
contrast of reality and abstraction, because it is the ex- 
pression of a human effort in which impulse is not in 
union with knowledge. 

There is a moment in the work of every novelist 
when the story which he is writing commences to fight 
for its head. If he be a beginner he exults. Inspira- 
tion has come at last. He has been piecing his work 
together by slow labour hitherto, now the joints fall 
into place of their own volition. The story proceeds 
henceforth to tell itself ; he, the reputed author, is 
merely the automaton which dips the pen in the ink. 
He surrenders himself, a willing slave, to the domina- 
tion of a beloved master. The experienced craftsman 
knows better than this. He is aware that the moment 
when the story begins to tell itself is the crisis of his 



14 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

work, that he is at a parting of the ways, and must 
either retain possession by a supreme effort of will 
or be carried on to failure. For stories cannot tell 
themselves ; they do not know how to do so. They 
have not learned the art of " construction " ; they do 
not understand "restrauit"; they are unfamiliar with 
the meaning of "anti-climax"; they cannot create 
"atmosphere." 

Gardens are as incapable of making themselves as 
novels, but even more ready to take the task in hand, 
and bring confusion upon their owner. They stimulate 
emotion as effectively as human characters and situa- 
tions, and it is in this mental excitement that the most 
mistakes are made. The companionship of flowers 
exercises a far more potent influence on some minds 
than the companionship of either real or fictitious 
people, and it is precisely these minds that are the 
most liable to be carried away. 

In a sense we are all gardeners to-day. Cultured 
people talk of gardening as they talk of books, and 
paintings, and music. Not to know something of 
climbing roses, and irises, and phloxes is as grave a 
dereliction as to be ignorant of art. A knowledge of 
gardening is a part of education. But the making of 
a garden tests the depths of education. It concentrates 
the knowledge of life, the judgment, the taste, the 
character, on an acre or two of bare earth just as they 
are concentrated on the three hundred pages of a 
novel. Any person of culture can appreciate a beauti- 
ful garden, but only a genius can make one without 
preliminary study. 

Nature is not the truest guide to artistic gardening. 
She is sometimes forcible, but she is invariably crude. 
She uses flowers, as she uses tragedies, without any 



THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 15 

thought for effect. Her work is merely the outcome 
of the instincts of reproduction, and of killing. Primal 
instinct may lead rival to stab rival, and he does it with 
no consideration of setting or background ; murderer 
and victim do not place themselves so that the limelight 
shall fall on their hate-distorted and anguish-twisted 
features. It is blow — cry — flight ! The murderer goes 
with blood upon him ; he uses his own knife ; he tries 
to burn his stained clothing, but only half succeeds. 
There is no "mystery," which detectives solve at the 
thirtieth chapter ; all is plain, gory, elementary. And 
Nature fhngs plants about very much as she flings 
blows. They grow where the conditions suit them. 
It may be that they have a beauty of their own, but 
it is not the beauty of educated thought. The flowers 
are not there to express ideals of beauty; they are 
there for increase. 

There is an art which transcends all that Nature 
can do in gardening, and it is to make an intimate 
study of good plants, and to give them such conditions 
as to aspect, soil, manure, and pruning as shall give 
them a fair chance of making handsome individuals. 
Is not a Venus of Milo worth a million plaster casts ? 
To collect a scrap-heap of weeds from every country 
in Europe, and then fling clinkers among them, is not 
to make a garden. There is a danger of a cult of 
horticultural hotch-potch growing up, every whit as 
preposterous as the bedding craze of years gone by. 

Before a person becomes a garden-maker he should 
be a practical plant student. A practical plant student 
is a natural gardener, because he learns what plants 
want, and is resolute to give it to them. A beautiful 
garden will grow up on this spirit better than on 
theories of design and the laws of landscape gardening. 



i6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

It is not pretended that a knowledge of plants will 
make mistakes in gardening impossible. A first study 
of plants is generally of a somewhat academic character, 
and theories about their uses are formed prematurely. 
It is concluded that what looks well on paper must 
look well in the garden, and, even with good plants, 
disappointment ensues. But the point is that good 
plants inherently make good gardens, and mistakes in 
arrangement are easily noted and remedied. If the 
strategy is correct there is a margin for covering de- 
fective tactics. 

The value of our "dream gardens" is that they 
give suggestions for beautiful arrangements. They do 
not so much teach us to know plants as to dispose 
them in effective ways. We can rarely make a copy 
of a garden that will equal the original one, any more 
than we can reproduce a Rembrandt with absolute 
faithfulness. But with good plants at our command 
we can often introduce one feature from this garden 
and another from that, and so build up a unit of our 
own, the cumulative effect of which is satisfying, and 
at the same time bears the impress of individuality. 

The greatest mistakes in garden-making arise from 
ignorance of plants. Errors of effect and errors of 
economy both spring from this cause. Plants are not 
like bricks and stone, steel and wood. With so many 
thousands of bricks, so much mortar, and so many 
yards of timber, an architect will construct a more or 
less handsome building, the merits or defects of which, 
viewed externally, are entirely dependent upon his 
design. But the garden does not stand or fall by 
design alone, because its components vary under con- 
ditions of aspect, climate, soil, and cultivation. 

It is often the case that people make a garden, and 



THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 17 

then commence to learn about the plants in it. They 
ought to first study the plants, and then make the 
garden. A study of beautiful plants is a liberal educa- 
tion. It does more than make gardens ; it makes 
characters. In the whole world of animated Nature 
there is nothing more beautiful than a wild rose except 
a cultivated one, and the superiority of the cultivated 
rose does not lie so much in its own virtues as in 
the fact that it is grown better. To cultivate good 
plants in such a way that they attain to the utmost 
beauty of form and colour of which they are capable 
has the same humanising effect as training a child. 
The good influences at work are reactive. The 
simplicity of the young mind corrects the didactic 
tendencies of the old. The fresh, spontaneous sym- 
pathies and impulses of the unformed intellect give 
new life to the fading fires of the matured one. 

When gardening is interpreted as the study of 
plants and their culture, it presents itself in its highest 
phase. It is education in action. To grow plants 
well is to love them ; to grow them well and love 
them well is to arrange them well. The majority 
of women dispose flowers artistically in a vase because 
they have strong affections. A sense of the beautiful 
springs out of love. A man does not love cut flowers 
as a woman does ; consequently, he does not, as a 
rule, arrange them with equal grace and taste. The 
majority of men have no real love for cut flowers, 
and professional gardeners hate to see them taken 
from the plants ; forgetting that, generally speaking, 
the more a plant is cut from the better it blooms. 

Taste in gardening is educated love. Affection 
gives the impulse, knowledge the guidance. Love is 
the road, education the lamp that lights it. 



CHAPTER II 

DESIGN, AND THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 

Design has long ruled with tyrannical sway over 
British gardens. It is to the landscape gardener what 
the crow^n is to the monarch — the symbol that impresses 
the multitude with respect and awe. 

When the garden designer is first summoned it is 
generally with the idea of a consultation, in which 
opinions will be interchanged. He will suggest this, 
we shall suggest that. We shall tell him of the many 
beautiful features that we have seen or thought of, and 
he will listen sympathetically, approving here, throw- 
ing out hints of improvement there ; and so, one stimu- 
lating the other, with pleasant mutual reactions, we shall 
arrive at that harmonious understanding which promises 
success. 

But this is reckoning without Design, which has 
fastened on the landscape gardener and made him its 
prey ; and which now prompts him to fly to pencil and 
cartridge-paper. He desires, in his heart, to give us 
what we want nearly as much as we w^ant it ourselves ; 
but he is over-ridden by his training. So we get our 
plan, draw our cheque, and make the garden. It is not, 
however, the garden of our inmost selves. It is a 
garden that we admire, and even develop an affection 
for, but it is a sort of foster garden, not bone of our 
bone, and flesh of our flesh. 

i8 



THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 19 

Design rules what is termed the informal as strictly 
as it ruled the formal garden. Rockeries, borders, and 
arches are as stereotyped as terraces and geometrical 
beds once were. One place is marked out for a pergola, 
another for a shrubbery, a third for an arbour. There 
is no scope for individuality. Worst of all, there is a 
deplorable cramming in of a multitude of plants for 
which not a spark of real affection exists, and which, 
consequently, are not well grown. Thousands of people 
deplete their purses and sour their lives over rock 
gardens, which have nothing in common with the con- 
figuration of the place, and are hustled in by main force. 
Granted that among Alpine plants are to be found some 
of the loveliest of floral gems, it remains the fact that 
a rockery is often as much out of place as a solitary 
rose arch in the middle of a walk. 

The writer has recollections of a grassy bank, some- 
what shaded, in the garden of a friend — a bank sloping 
to water. Of course, it was the ideal place for a first 
blush of snowdrops, a second of daffodils and poet's 
narcissus, and a third of foxgloves, with willow herbs 
near the water. But it was seized upon for a rock 
garden, and there followed such excavating, such cart- 
ing in of stones and soil for mounds, such windings and 
terracings so that the water could trickle down from 
stone to stone, such forming of pockets, such arranging 
of "aspects," such poring over catalogues for plants, 
as never were before ! It cost nearly ^100 to turn a 
corner of beautiful repose and peace into a paltry and 
contemptible imitation of an Alpine nook. Such are 
the enormities practised in the sacred name of Nature ! 

In nine cases out of ten the garden that grows under 
the hands of those who love flowers is more beautiful 
than the garden that is designed, just as the schoolgirl's 



20 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

first effort at a bouquet is generally more attractive than 
the last example of the art of the trained male. If a 
finished garden is a failure, it is much more likely to 
be because the worker did not know his plants than 
because of the absence of a plan. 

Gardens, like plants, ought to grow. They should 
not be made to contract within a specified time, like 
an asylum, or a block of Poor Law buildings — which, 
with a peculiar sense of the appropriate, usually work 
out at about ;^5oo per bed ! The class of garden that 
is made to order is the one that its owners spend no 
time in, because they are too much engrossed with 
business affairs. There is no reason why a mining 
magnate should not have a garden made for him under 
contract just the same as he has a new wing put on to 
his house, but he will not garden for himself ; he will 
have a staff of trained men to do it for him. He 
is not a gardener. He likes to see his dinner-table 
brightened up with plants and flowers, and he likes to 
have an adequate dessert, but he makes no pretence at 
taking plants into his life, and making them constant, 
dear companions. 

There is joy in planning a garden for oneself, but 
there is still greater joy in making changes on that plan 
when the actual gardening is being done. It is like the 
motor tour. Directly the car is ordered maps are 
brought out, and the first tour arranged to the smallest 
detail. Here we stay the first night, there the second. 
The itinerary gives us an hour in this town, two hours 
in that. The speed is to be a uniform i8 miles per 
hour, and the actual driving-time is to be exactly six 
hours, so that we cover io8 miles per day. What 
really happens is that we overrun our first resting- 
place because we have got entangled in a duel with 



THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 21 

another car, and fall short of the second owing to a 
punctured tyre. Somebody at an hotel tells us that 
our road is " up " a few miles ahead, and suggests a 
digression for the sake of getting a better running sur- 
face ; or we are warned that there is a police trap over 
a certain stretch (as if police traps had any significance 
for people traveUing 18 miles per hour !) which can be 
avoided by a certain detour. We learn of bits of scenery, 
of picturesque churches or ruins. And so, going where 
the impulse of the moment leads us, we arrive at our 
destination at a time, and by a route, quite different 
from our original itinerary. But we get there. 

If we develop gardens on this somewhat incoherent 
plan shall we not find that, like the budding novelist, 
we have been run away with — that the story has told 
itself, to our complete satisfaction at the moment, but 
to our dire discomfiture when the critic lays on the 
lash ? Not if we know our plants intimately, and have 
an eye to colour. While plants grow under our hands 
from seeds, and cuttings, and layers, all sorts of ideas 
will come to us for using them — ideas that have nothing 
in common with the smell of the lamp. We shall see 
how these fit in with our original design, and if they do 
not harmonise we shall throw overboard one or the 
other — often the plan. 

When we accept Design as the ruler of the garden 
we have come to finality. The garden has to be laid 
out in such a way, and is laid out in such a way. Dare 
we afterwards alter it ? A thousand times no. The 
garden is a finished work of art. It is complete. To 
interfere with it were sacrilege. The most that we dare 
do is to pass a reverent duster over it, and that in fear 
and trembling, lest we deface it. 

The garden that grows is always changing. A mis- 



22 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

placed bed is not like the laws of the Medes and Per- 
sians, fixed, unalterable. A few square yards of turf, 
or a pound or two of grass seed, and the bed is wiped 
out ; it is as though it had never been. And if we find 
that the pretty spring dell which we were so keen upon 
proves to be disappointing, with a load or two of shingle 
and a few bags of cement we can line the bottom and 
sides, and turn it into a water-lily pool. 

People who take plants into their lives should never 
be content to let alien hands arrange them, any more 
than they should permit their drawing-rooms to be 
finished off by the decorators. Outside help must 
come in, it is true. The shovelling out of earth, the 
beating down of turf, the wheeling of manure, are as 
obviously the tasks of hired labour as the papering of 
walls and the laying of carpets. But beyond this there 
should be nothing done in which the hand of the owner 
is not prominent. 

Home-made gardens are full of possibilities of both 
good and evil. Like home-made bread, they may be 
either heavy and indigestible, or light and wholesome. 
The leaven of good sense is wanted in them. Fixed 
proportions of flour, water, yeast, coal, and time, make, 
in theory, the perfect loaf ; but in practice they often 
yield a close mass. So many plants, so much manure, 
will not in themselves make a garden ; the yeast of 
taste and knowledge is wanted also. The magnitude 
of the issue must be the stimulus to study. Is the garden 
less a part of the home than the rooms ? Are the plants 
less interesting than the chairs and tables ? If the garden 
grows under the hands of the owner it will be an integral 
feature of the home. The two will never be thought 
of as separate units, but always as one. And if the 
plants which make up the garden are raised by the 



THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 23 

garden-maker they will grow into his life as loved 
children do. 

The union of home and garden is a sacred social 
duty. The garden not only creates beautiful pictures 
and delightful odours, but pure thoughts, high aspira- 
tions, and noble ideals. The garden-home is the seat 
of the purest affections, the truest outlook on life, the 
highest conception of humanity. For the writer's own 
part, he cannot see the tragedy of commercial life in 
all its grimness and pathos amid the roar of factories, 
and in the jostle of fetid streets. He is overcome there 
by the gregarious instinct, oppressed by the inertia of 
inevitability. The tendency to become one of the crowd 
— to be carried away on the stream of human impulse, 
to drift in an atmosphere of irresponsibility, to have 
individuality merged in the collective helplessness of 
the mass ; and to yield to the hopeless, humiliating con- 
viction that this vulgar and squalid strife of conflicting 
interests is the best that the world can do — this tendency 
is almost irresistible. But in the quietude of the garden 
he escapes this sucking-under of personality, this 
numbing of volition. He sees the social system in its 
true perspective. He sees, too, that if, and when, he 
can make of the slum-dweller a gardener he will secure 
for him also that aloofness, that detachment, without 
which it is impossible for him to see and understand 
the problems of his existence. 

In so far as Design harnesses a sense of order to 
the gardening impulse it is good, but when it goes 
farther, and paralyses initiative and individuality, it is 
bad. It must never become the master, but always 
remain the servant, of the garden-maker. 



CHAPTER III 

THE COST OF GARDENING 

Although there is much of the purely ideal in 
gardening, it cannot be dissociated from such practical 
matters as bank balances and the payment of debts. 
Florists and seedsmen are an admirable body of men, 
often as much interested in plants for the sake of 
their beauty as for the sake of the profit they bring ; 
but in the end they like to have their bills settled. 
There is no purpose served by divorcing gardening 
from the ordinary rules of business and common sense. 
There is always a certain necessary capital expendi- 
ture on making a garden, just as there is in building 
a house, and in both cases there is the further cost 
of furnishing and upkeep — a very variable quantity. 
Would you have your hall panelled with oak, and 
your walls hung with pictures by artists of the highest 
standing ? Would you refuse to buy a table or a chair 
which did not have a history ? Would you have a large 
staff of servants, and entertain extensively ? These are 
the questions which decide your household economy. 
And there are corresponding questions connected with 
the garden. The extent of the glass houses which are 
erected has an important bearing, because they involve 
a current as well as a capital expenditure, for instance, 
in heating and skilled labour. Almost more important 

is the point as to w^hether the garden is to be kept 

24 



THE COST OF GARDENING 25 

alive with an expensive diet of novelties, bought annu- 
ally at special rates, or is to be sustained with plain, 
wholesome, everyday fare, raised at home. 

Many people impoverish themselves in a most 
painful and unnecessary way by gardening. A set of 
garden accounts for a year were once placed before 
the writer, and he saw that they amounted to ;^30oo. 
Of course, it was a large place, but even so, the sum 
was considerable. What was got for it ? A pretty 
rose garden, a lawn, shrubberies, some flower beds, 
a collection of chrysanthemums, two houses of carna- 
tions, a house or two of table plants, vineries, peach 
houses, a kitchen garden, and a fair collection of fruit 
trees. The amount did not include anything for capital 
expenditure; it was cost of upkeep alone. And there 
had been practically no money spent on new varieties 
of plants ; dahlia novelties at 7s. 6d. each, new orchids 
at anything up to ;^5oo a piece, new daffodils at ;^20 
a bulb, had been left severely alone ; the owner had 
merely indulged in " necessaries." To numbers of 
people, however, new dahlias, orchids, and daffodils 
do not appear in the light of luxuries ; they are ordered 
just as naturally as beef and mutton. Florists make 
their best profits out of novelties, and this is well 
enough for just so long as it is assessed at its proper 
value. When novelties are regarded as the beginning 
and the end of gardening, and lead to thoughtless 
people spending more than they can afford, then 
becoming embittered, and checking the expansion of 
gardening by mournful tales of its costliness, it is not 
so well. Gardening is expensive to those people who 
have a passion for ^ possessing every new thing, but 
then, so is dressing. Just as folk may go to church 
in decent broadcloth, and cut a fair figure in society, 



26 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

without spending half their income on dress, so it is 
possible to garden with credit and success without 
having, in the end, to " consult one's creditors." 

In the development of the garden from the wild, 
it is prudent to consider expenditure under the following 
heads : — 

1. Acquisition of land. 

2. Ground labour. 

3. Erection of buildings (if any). 

4. Stocking with plants. 

5. Purchase of tools and implements. 

6. Annual upkeep. 

Under the first heading comes the important 
question of area. Various considerations hold sway ; 
conflicting requirements have to be reconciled. Many 
a man who struggles on in a large house would live 
in comfort in a small one were it not for fear of 
neighbours. A cottage is one thing, one of a row 
of cottages is quite another. And so with the garden. 
" An acre would be quite enough for me, but if I 
only buy an acre, how do I know who will come on 
the other side?" Dead weights of unneeded land 
are hung round groaning necks, for fear of the other 
people who might buy it. The consideration occurs 
that it were better worth while to study the art of 
living in peace and amity with neighbours than to 
impoverish oneself in keeping them away ; but that is 
a matter of social ethics rather than of gardening. 

Viewing the question horticulturally, we raise, in 
connection with the matter of area, the question of 
labour. No one who proposes to do all his own 
gardening should allot himself more than an acre. 
Four square roods of flowers, fruit, vegetables, and 
grass will fill most of the time of an active man or 



THE COST OF GARDENING 27 

woman. The extension or reduction of any of these 
four sections will not materially reduce the labour. 
There is a common delusion that grass economises 
considerably. It only does so to a very slight extent, 
if at all. Weeding, sweeping, mowing, and rolling are 
all needed to maintain a perfect sward. Shrubberies 
are perhaps the greatest economisers, but even they 
demand their share of time. Manuring, digging, weed- 
ing, and pruning are all necessary in their seasons. 

Those who cannot do their own gardens, and have 
to employ labour for the purpose, will be prudent if 
they make their calculations on the basis of a man 
an acre. Should there be no glass, a second acre 
could be controlled with the addition of a boy instead 
of another man. The cost of this labour will depend 
partly on its class, and partly on the district. The 
average, trained, single - handed gardener expects a 
minimum wage of twenty -five shillings a week; a 
labourer may serve for eighteen. 

The ground labour demanded in reclaiming the 
wild must necessarily vary. If it is ptain turf, fairly 
level, there will be little outlay. The turf has a face 
value of threepence per square yard, and shows a 
profit on lifting. What is retained will serve, after 
being stacked for a few months, as potting soil. The 
lawns can be made by the mere rolling, manuring, and 
mowing of the pasture. If it is arable land the lawns 
will have to be made by laying turf, or sowing seed. 

Money is often wasted in the ill-considered shifting 
of great masses of soil under the malign influence of 
Design, There are many places in which not a single 
spadeful of earth need be moved, except in the process 
of digging. The mischievous delusion exists that a 
garden cannot be a garden unless holes are dug out 



28 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

here and mounds made there. People fail to realise 
that whatever unevenness of outline is desired can 
generally be secured far better by the inexpensive 
utilisation of carefully chosen plants than by the 
laborious processes of navvying. Borders must be 
made, of course, and in them the spade should be 
freely used ; it should not, however, be in moving 
soil away, but in deepening and manuring it where 
it lies, for the nourishment of those fine breaks of 
colour which, as we shall presently see, are to be the 
abiding glory of the garden. 

Ranges of glass houses are one of the most costly 
components of a garden. Some of the most beautiful 
of modern gardens have no glass, save perhaps a frame 
or two in which to raise seedlings. Modern flower 
gardeners do not admit the necessity of glass. They 
consider that it is cheaper to buy the forced fruit 
vegetables, and flowers which they want than to grow 
them. And a conservatory, so far from tempting them 
the most, does so the least, because they know that 
of all types of structure it is the most unsatisfactory 
for plants. A conservatory may, of course, be con- 
sidered an advantage as a lounge, but in that case it 
should be deemed rather as an annexe of the dwelling- 
house than as a part of the garden. 

Those who consider that a garden would be in- 
complete without glass houses must consider them in 
relation to two items of expense — cost of construction, 
and cost of upkeep. Structures of fair quality may be 
expected to cost about £i per foot run, including 
heating. A common type of house can be bought 
cheaper, a superior one much dearer. Where a vinery, 
a plant house, a conservatory, and frames are wanted, 
it will be wise to allow for the cost of an extra hand 



THE COST OF GARDENING 29 

in addition to fuel. People who try to run a two-acre 
garden containing several glass houses with the sole 
aid of one " odd man " lay a heavy burden of care and 
worry on their shoulders. 

The cost of stocking a garden of any given size 
with plants is as difficult to calculate as the expense 
of furnishing a drawing-room. You can stock an acre 
for a few pounds, or for several hundreds of pounds. 
The great thing to remember is that it is not in 
the least necessary to spend a great deal of money. 
Seedsmen and florists make a great feature of " collec- 
tions" nowadays. One can buy a collection of 1000 
bulbs for a guinea, and a box of vegetable seeds that 
would suffice for any ordinary garden for the same 
sum. The hardy-plant dealer will sell 100 rock plants 
for fifty shillings. The rose grower will supply excel- 
lent roses at from six shillings to eighteen shillings a 
dozen. Capital fruit trees are purchasable at a shilling 
each. Boxes of flower seeds are offered from a shil- 
ling each upwards. And so on. Observe, these are 
not " clearance sales " of odd rubbish. They are the 
ordinary stocks of reputable houses, who will put 
labels on the things they sell. Job lots are often to 
be picked up through the medium of auction sales, or 
advertisements in the gardening papers. 

Tools and implements can hardly be bargained for. 
They are not sold in "collections" as a rule, nor are 
there auction sales for them. There is not much 
variation in the range of prices. Spades and forks 
of good quality will cost 3s. 6d. to 5s. each wherever 
you go. Hoes and rakes are an unimportant item. 
A good wheelbarrow may cost a guinea. The greatest 
range of prices exists in connection with mowing 
machines. A 12-inch machine is as large as the average 



30 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

mower will care to push without assistance, and it can 
be bought for 12s. 6d., or for £^, ids. It is best to buy 
a high-class machine, as it will do its work easily, and 
cost very little for repairs. 

The charges for annual upkeep will include wages, 
seeds, manure, fuel if there are heated houses, and the 
addition of new varieties of particular flowers, such 
as roses, carnations, and dahlias, if the gardener elects 
to specialise. The last is so important an item that the, 
greater part of the cost of the garden may be expected 
to turn on it. One could stock an acre of garden with 
beautiful flowers at the cost of one small bed of new 
carnations, which a hungry rabbit may eat off in a night. 

One of the most economically conducted gardens 
that the writer knows is also one of the most beautiful. 
The whole "estate" amounts to about ten acres. 
Half consists of meadow, which is fed off with sheep, 
except for a crop of hay every other year. A quarter 
is orchard, of which geese, turkeys, and fowls have 
the run. These are supposed to pay for them- 
selves, and leave a balance. The remaining quarter 
garden proper, comprising lawns, flower borders 
is (no beds), kitchen garden, and fruit trees. There 
is no glass of any kind ; it is an outdoor garden pure 
and simple. 

The owner of the place is a believer in the "simple 
life." He has no profession, and spends several hours 
of every day in the garden. He is never hurried, 
never worried. He employs no gardener. An " odd 
man " from the village helps him with the rough work 
when wanted. He never buys a novelty. He never 
labels a plant. He has abundance of fruit and 
vegetables to eat and some to sell. He has a charming 
flower garden. He has plenty of cut bloom. 



THE COST OF GARDENING 31 

We agree cordially with the horrified professional 
who declares that this is not horticulture at all. It 
is a mere toying with the sacred art — if, indeed, it is 
not something worse. A certain Mr. Snipper, head 
gardener at the Squire's, was invited to walk round, 
and respectfully, but firmly, declined. He had no 
objection to people managing their places as they 
thought proper, none whatever. He was a broad- 
minded man, and his motto was live and let live. 
But he had to consider his position. This was a 
dignified and proper attitude for Snipper to assume. 
Gardening is gardening, after all. Snipper is to be 
respected. He is a distinguished ornament of a noble 
profession, and as far as in him lies he is going to 
maintain its great traditions. The worst of it is that 
the culprit cannot see what he is doing wrong. He 
has a thoroughly good time of it in his garden, he 
makes it pay its way, and Snipper is a stock jest 
with him. 



CHAPTER IV 

SPECIALISM IN GARDENING 

To combat the idea that gardening is necessarily ex- 
pensive is to do it a great service, and to confer a real 
blessing on the country. We cannot be a great nation 
in the best sense until we are a nation of gardeners, 
and we cannot be a nation of gardeners until we have 
learned to take a practical view of gardening. 

Why do people, when they take to gardening, allow 
themselves to fall victims to Specialism ? Why do they 
permit themselves to be hen-pecked by a flower, or, for 
the matter of that, by a class of flowers ? An ordi- 
narily intelligent person, with a due sense of economy 
in business or household matters, often becomes the 
readiest prey to Specialism. The reason is that he is 
unable to distinguish between essentials and embel- 
lishments. 

The writer has nothing whatever to say against 

dahlias, or rock gardens, or sweet peas. He has not 

the remotest objection to their being specialised (as a 

matter of fact, he specialises in one of them himself), 

provided it is done by the right class. The point he 

wants to establish is that specialism is not the ruler of 

gardening — a sort of flower-crowned autocrat without 

whose smiles success cannot be. Just as there can be 

specialism without gardening, so there can be gardening 

without specialism. 

32 



SPECIALISM IN GARDENING ^^ 

On the face of it, there is at least as good a case for 
simple flower gardening as there is for commonsense 
motoring. The rank and file of motorists know quite 
well that they cannot devote their lives and savings 
to high-powered monsters capable of winning the 
Kaiser's and other Cups. They have no wish to turn 
the highways into racing tracks. They are out for 
quiet enjoyment. But it seems the unhappy fate of 
gardening that people who take it up are either sucked 
into a vortex of exhibiting, or fall a victim to some 
plausible faddist. In either case they involve themselves 
in unnecessary expense, and lay upon their lives a 
burden of exactions and disappointments. 

When a committee of experts sit on a new orchid, 
and deliberate for an hour as to whether its particular 
shade of colour is slightly different from, or is identical 
with, an old variety, it is not for the great world of 
flower gardeners to hang upon the issue with breathless 
eagerness. The verdict affects one man, and one only 
— the owner of the reputed novelty. If the committee 
should decide in his favour, and give him an " award 
of merit," he will pocket a handsome sum of money. 
This is well for him as a business man, but how does 
it affect those who garden for the garden's sake — who 
run flowers for the sake of a garden, not the garden for 
the sake of a flower ? It does not affect them one iota. 
They can pursue their work with unruffled calm. The 
issue has its interest and importance, but not for them. 
The deliberations of that committee are a not unimpor- 
tant landmark on the pathway of specialism, but they 
bear only very slightly on the larger road of the garden. 

Let it be admitted that the florist has a case. He 
will contend that but for his operations flowers would 
never be improved. He will point to old types, and 

c 



34 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

put new ones alongside them for comparison. So far 
from questioning the truth of his contentions we un- 
hesitatingly accept them. We appreciate the good work 
which he has done, and we hope that he will do more. 
He has enriched our gardens with hundreds of beautiful 
varieties, and we applaud him as a real benefactor to 
the human race. But we ask him to see the reason of 
our contention that we, beginners in garden making, 
are not legitimate specialists. We are not natural pur- 
chasers of novelties. Later on, perhaps, we may be. 
At present our business is certainly to learn the char- 
acter and culture of standard plants. If, in the course 
of our studies, we develop a passion for some particular 
flower, and come under the influence of a friend who 
grows it for exhibition, we may take a step forward. 
That lies in the lap of the future. 

The question whether specialism makes for the ulti- 
timate good of gardening might be debated at length. 
On the one hand there is the undoubted fact that the 
incessant demand for novelties leads to a constant influx 
of beautiful varieties. This is not now limited to what 
are termed " florist's flowers," such as roses, carnations, 
and dahlias, but extends to a considerable number of 
herbaceous plants. On the other hand is the fact that 
the bulk of novelties are not used for gardening at all, 
but for prize-winning. If we looked at novelties purely 
as novelties — if we could only regard them as material 
of the moment — we should certainly be driven to sum 
up against specialism. But we look ahead. We see 
that a particular variety has great possibilities. We 
know that for the time being it can only justify its 
cost by prize-winning, but we know also that in course 
of time, when it has become abundant and cheap, it 
will be capable of doing good service in the garden. 



SPECIALISM IN GARDENING 35 

It comes to this : We, as gardeners, let the specialists 
get the chestnuts out of the fire for us. They have the 
first nibble, as is only fair. The nut is none the worse, 
when it comes to us, for the little bite which they have 
had out of it. 

Owners of large places who employ a staff of 
gardeners to do the work for them often complain of 
the effects of exhibiting. They consider, perhaps not 
without reason in some cases, that the particular flower 
specialised benefits at the expense of other things in the 
garden. They contend, too, that their freedom of action 
is impaired. They may look, from a respectful distance, 
at the flowers, but they must not touch them. It is as 
though they had a "keep off the grass" notice thrust 
before their eyes on their own premises, and by their 
own servants. Every person so situated must deal 
with the case on its merits, or as it presents itself to 
him. 

Beginners in gardening often start their lessons at 
exhibitions. They really ought to end there. It is 
common to see novices taking feverish, indiscriminating 
notes. An exquisite box of cactus dahlias arrests them. 
Every flower is a model of substance, form, and brilliant, 
lustrous colour. In a trice the names are rushed into 
a notebook, and then the representative of the competing 
firm, who has been hovering near, sidles up at the right 
moment, discreetly introduces a catalogue, and books 
the order. Well, these cactus dahlias may be satisfac- 
tory in the garden, but it is by no means unlikely that 
they will be quite the reverse, having thin, short, weak 
stems, which fail to lift them clear of the foliage. 
Thus, the varieties may be valuable for exhibition, but 
useless in the garden. 

The special floral societies did not do much for the 



36 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

garden maker in their early days ; they lived for the 
exhibitor. But a new spirit is growing up. The 
societies take broader views than they used to do. 
Most of them issue information likely to be useful 
from the garden point of view, and some go so far as 
to experiment with novelties for the benefit of their 
members. On the whole, things are tending in the 
right direction, but garden makers must still proceed 
cautiously. The time has not yet come when gardens 
can be built up on shows, and on the proceedings of 
societies. Specialism, in short, remains specialism, and 
is from gardening a thing apart. 



CHAPTER V 

HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 

Some of the fine garden plants whicli exist are among 
the cheapest, and, moreover, are propagated with such 
ease and rapidity that a large quantity can be raised 
in a short time. How can we learn about such plants ? 
Where can we see them ? 

There are opportunities of acquiring knowledge, 
with a minimum of expense, and in a very agreeable 
way. Take, for instance, the nursery gardens. In 
many trades a great deal of secrecy is observed, and 
the workrooms are jealously guarded. In the Notting- 
hamshire lace factories the manufacturers like nothing 
so little as the casual visitor. He may be there because 
he is interested in industries, but they see in him the 
possible agent of a rival firm. In the horticultural 
trade there is no such spirit of suspicion. Nurserymen 
like their places visited. It is true that they may have 
a special stock which they do not care to show, but 
they do not close the whole of their grounds because 
of it ; they merely give it a reservation, or a greenhouse, 
to itself, and unostentatiously pass it by when leading 
visitors round. For the rest, come as often as you 
like, go where you like. And do not be afraid to 
badger the florist with questions. He is never a mere 
money-grubber ; plants are too interesting for that. 
He is very proud of his stock, and he likes to talk 

37 



38 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

about it. He will always give a pound's worth of 
information in exchange for a five-shilling order, and 
consider that he has made an excellent bargain. So 
he has, for his hearer will be helped and encouraged, 
and sooner or later will buy more plants. 

The spirit prevailing in trade gardening is of the 
finest sporting quality. Narrowness and suspicion are 
almost unknown. As an example, the writer was once 
asked to take charge of an expert committee to assess 
the merits and value of new varieties of a certain 
flower. Its members were nearly all representatives 
of different competing firms. What a Donnybrook 
Fair that committee-room might have been ! What 
trailings of coats ! What cracking of crowns ! What 
conflict of contending interests ! Well, there was 
nothing but good comradeship and brotherly love. 
Not an eye was blacked, not a head was thumped. 
The members judged the flowers on their merits, 
neither more nor less. 

There is a good nursery-garden near every large 
place in Great Britain. As a rule, it lies a mile or 
two outside the town, where land is cheaper, and 
smoke less abundant, than within the boundaries. 
The instructive part of these places is that many of 
the plants are labelled. It is true that some are 
grown under number only, but this is not because 
the nurseryman wants to conceal their identity : it is 
merely a matter of convenience, and in very few cases 
will the name be withheld if it is asked for. 

Just think of visiting a rose nursery in July ! Not 
a show in the land can compare with such an ex- 
perience for either pleasure or instruction. Here you 
do not see specially-selected and carefully-dressed 
flowers, and nothing more. You see, not only the 



HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 39 

flower, but the plant which it belongs to. You can 
see whether it is a strong grower or a weak one. 
You can see how it is suited by a particular class 
of soil. You can see whether it is a free bloomer or 
the reverse. And, almost best of all, you can find 
out, by a little observation and a question or two, 
what sort of pruning suits it best. Such a visit to a 
rose nursery is in itself a pure delight, but it is also 
a liberal education. If you are fortunate you may 
catch the head of the firm when he is going his 
rounds. Naturally you will, at first, hang back, for 
fear of intruding, or making undue inroads on his 
leisure, but he will speedily put you at your ease, 
and you and he will much enjoy each other's society. 

Then there are the public parks and botanic gardens. 
A great deal of scorn has been heaped on the parks 
on account of the crudeness of their flower gardening, 
which is still of the " Elementary Jane " order. The 
fact of the matter is that the bedding system is not 
dead, or even in the way of dying. It is alive and 
flourishing. Just as there are different publics for 
different classes of book, so there are different publics 
for gardening. There is a class of book which sells 
in its thousands. It opens with a murder of the most 
mysterious and sanguinary character, and a man 
walking out of the house where it has been com- 
mitted wearing a dazed look, and floods of the 
ruddiest gore. Anon it introduces an Adventuress — 
generally with red hair — who conspires against a 
heroine (usually answering to the name of Clare or 
Joyce, rarely to Mary Ann) with soft hazel eyes, and 
a sweet, grave expression. The man with the dazed 
look is Clare's (or Joyce's) lover, and is falsely accused 
of the murder. As, in addition to the dazed look and 



40 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the gore, he is wearing the victim's shirt, he is promptly 
haled off to gaol. In the last chapter but one the crime 
is brought home to the Adventuress, and in the last, 
Clare (or Joyce), and the man with the dazed look 
(who has now got back into his own shirt), kneel side 
by side at the hymeneal altar. 

This is what we may call "bedding-plant literature." 
It appeals to those crude natures which like plain 
colours, laid on with a thick brush. No nonsense about 
Art here, if you please. We do not know what Art 
means, and we do not particularly want to. We want 
a good, honest thrill at the end of every chapter, and 
when we reach the point in our serial where [to be 
continued) is reached, we want to find ourselves con- 
fronted with a situation that will put us on the tenter- 
hooks of curiosity. 

Those who have to cater for the horticultural tastes 
of the masses in the large towns probably know their 
public just as well as the publisher who produces 
bedding-plant literature, and it is foolish to blame 
them severely. If a park superintendent tried to get 
ahead of public taste, he would probably find that 
his Town Council (largely composed of grocers and 
the like) wanted to know what he meant by it. Of 
course we do not blame the superintendent, but equally 
we are not going to take him as our teacher in flower 
gardening. Occasionally one of his class gives us a 
bed suitable for imitation in a private garden, but not 
often. Even where his designs are moderate and 
pleasing, they are often made up of mixtures of hardy 
and tender materials. Indoor plants of great size, 
altogether beyond the scope of amateurs, are " bedded 
out." This is the great defect, considered from the 
educational point of view, of the flower gardening at 



HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 41 

Hampton Court, which is, in the main, well done. 
Hyde Park and Regent's Park are open to the same 
criticism. 

Kew is a better school than the parks, because a 
greater proportion of hardy material is employed, and 
plants are given a chance of showing their individuality. 
The soil is well prepared, manure is used liberally, the 
plants are given room to develop into worthy examples 
of their kind, and they are intelligently pruned. The 
trees and shrubs are particularly well managed. The 
rose garden is excellent. There is a good rock-garden. 

The masses crowd to Kew in Summer, but flower 
lovers should go at every opportunity during Autumn, 
Winter, and Spring, because it is then that the greater 
part of the planting is in progress, and opportunities 
are afforded of seeing how things are done. Those 
who suppose that flower gardens are built up on 
theories will learn how important a part such prosaic 
things as spades and manure play in making them. 
Kew makes deep beds of manured soil for its plants, 
and uses knife and pruning-saw with refreshing vigour. 

The rank and file of private gardens are not very 
valuable as sources of lessons in flower-gardening, be- 
cause tender plants are largely used in them. The 
bedding system still rules. The bad old idea of groups 
of tender plants on the near edge of lawns, instead of 
wide borders of hardy kinds on the further extremity, 
still rules. It is a great pity to cut up an expanse of 
sward just under the windows of a house into a series 
of geometrical beds, and to fill them with tender things. 
Distant colour from bold, carefully chosen groups is 
much more effective. However, herbaceous borders 
are extending rapidly, and it is more common than it 
was to find instructive examples of good colour work. 



42 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

This is particularly the case where the flower-gardening 
is supervised by an educated person who really takes 
the trouble to become acquainted with plants. It is 
unwise for owners of gardens who employ professionals 
to interfere in the flower-gardening, except when forti- 
fied real by knowledge. A great many do, and the 
result is endless friction, frequent changes of men, 
undue expense, and a hotch-potch. 

The orthodox professional gardener will generally 
do a place well in his own way, and had better be left 
to that way, unless his employer is really capable of 
teaching him a better. The writer recalls numerous 
cases in which owners of gardens have expressed great 
dissatisfaction with their man on account of the flower- 
garden work. The gardener is good at vegetables and 
fruit, you are told, but his flower-gardening is built up 
on the rudimentary geranium-and-calceolaria basis. 
The owner (or more frequently the owner's wife) has 
been compelled to take this department over. There 
follows a tale of woe at the result — designs not properly 
carried out, plants neglected, insubordination, and 
muddling. In most of these cases the root of the 
trouble has been incapacity. The owners did not 
know enough to carry on a system of flower-gardening 
of their own, but only enough to harass and confuse 
a possibly well-meaning and industrious man. 

It is not suggested that educated people should not 
supervise their own flower-gardening with a view to 
introducing better systems. The contrary is the case. 
They are earnestly advised to do it, both for the benefit 
to the garden which may very well accrue, and for the 
amount of personal pleasure and health which it is 
possible for them to get out of it. The point is that 
they must disabuse their minds of the idea that artistic 



HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 43 

flower-gardening can be picked up as easily as a stitch 
in Limerick lace. It needs earnest and intelligent 
study. It would be more easy for a dabbler in poetry 
to impose a discussion on Browning's poetry on a 
village " mothers' meeting," than for a person possessed 
of a mere superficial knowledge of hardy plants to 
impose a new system on a plain working gardener. 

Professional gardeners are not always so inherently 
obstructive and unprogressive as they appear to be — or, 
to put it in another way, as they are credited with being. 
Nowadays many of them see groups of hardy flowers 
at the principal shows — the Temple, the Royal Horti- 
cultural at Westminster, York, Edinburgh, and Shrews- 
bury — and become genuinely interested in them. There 
is no doubt that the great majority of modern gardeners 
would be just as pleased as their employers to do away 
with bedding out if their thoughts were turned in that 
direction, and they received encouragement and advice 
from persons competent to give it. 

Owners of large gardens who employ professional 
assistance had better not undertake the entire responsi- 
bility of the flower-gardening hastily. They will be wise 
to take over a " reservation " as a sort of exercise- 
ground, and practise there first. They might, for 
instance, have a fairly large border made, and try 
experiments on it, doing all their own work except 
trenching and manuring, buying or raising their own 
plants, and arranging them in their own ways. 

The success or failure of their border could then never 
become a matter for acrimonious argument ; it would rest 
on one person. Valuable experience would be gained, 
and a great deal of pleasure would be enjoyed. 

After all, the best way of learning gardening is to 
practise it. 



CHAPTER VI 

THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 

From a horticultural point of view, any expanse of 
ground that has not been brought under the hand of 
the gardener is a wild. It may be a green meadow, cool 
and fresh in its spring garb, gilded with buttercups, 
dotted with lambs ; no matter, it is not a garden, it is 
a wild ! Is a person who makes money, and builds a 
house in the meadow, going to be satisfied with butter- 
cups under his window, and to tolerate lambs frisking 
in and out of his hall ? No, when the house is finished, 
something better than buttercups will have to be put 
round it, and the lambs will have to seek another 
meadow. Here, then, we are face to face with the task 
of making a garden. 

It would be a matter of interest if we could know 
when, and in what way, the first garden-maker began. 
Who was it that had the original idea of getting beyond 
grass and buttercups ? Had he beauty or utility in 
his mind when he first made an enclosure around his 
habitation ? Was his first thought of his intellect, or 
of his stomach ? We can only conjecture what were 
the beginnings of gardening. The garden may not 
have come into being either to please the eye or to 
appease hunger ; it may have grown up in a demand 
for shade. When the Eastern nomad ceased from 
wandering, and made himself a home, he would recall 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 45 

the long, parching days in the sun-scorched desert, 
and the dehcious hours of rest and refreshment around 
the wells. And he would plant palm and fig trees near 
his dwelling. 

That was the first step. The person who took it 
probably did not think of anything further until he 
remembered a pretty cactus which he had seen when 
he and his associates had raided a certain caravan, 
and murdered its members. Perhaps he fetched the 
cactus, and when, in his old age, his mind went fondly 
back to the days during which he had stolen and 
slaughtered, the cactus served the double purpose of 
pleasing his eye and stimulating his tender reminiscences. 

However it originated, gardening grew. It had birth 
far, far back in remote ages. Men of wealth would learn 
how much more pleasant their habitations became when 
encircled by trees, fruits, and flowers, than when bare, 
and gradually they would give their surroundings definite 
arrangement. In the early days of Eastern civilisation, 
gardening became a science. Indian, Egyptian, and 
Persian, each tasted horticultural pleasures. Doubtless 
schools of gardening existed, and wrangled with the 
same vigour that they do to-day. 

The Romans were great gardeners, and if we may 
accept the younger Pliny as a representative of the 
tastes of his compatriots, they were pronounced formal- 
ists, having a great love for architectural features and 
clipped trees. The topiarius was almost as familiar a 
figure as the gladiator. The formal garden, with its 
terraces, was really a natural outcome of the building 
of villas on the hillsides ; but there is no such legitimate 
natural reason for the carven trees. The garden of the 
early Roman was formal, the Italian garden of to-day 
is formal. 



46 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

When we speak of Elizabethan gardens we have in 
mind gardens with straight walks, long, stiff alleys, and 
dense, trim hedges. They came into being in conse- 
quence of the liking which Henry VIII. had for the 
handiwork of the Italian gardeners. The formal system 
was further clamped down on a country which was not 
naturally fitted to it by the influence of the grandiose 
Le Notre, and later by the chain of events which brought 
William and Mary to the throne of Britain. For the 
Dutch garden was, and is, formal, topiary forming a 
great feature of it. The modern English garden is 
informal, and for the time, at all events, the influence 
of the Italian school is almost a negligible quantity. 

Formal and Natural Gardens 

It is not necessary that the person who seeks to turn 
the wild into a garden should immerse himself very deeply 
in the arguments of the various schools. He can cer- 
tainly make himself a beautiful and productive garden 
without knowing anything whatever about them. After 
all, what is ornamental gardening but the provision of 
certain pleasing pictures around a dwelling ? If a 
person encloses a piece of ground with a wall or fence, 
screens his boundary with shrubs, fronts the shrubs 
with a spacious border filled with selected plants, carries 
a lawn from the edge of the border as near to his front 
door as the provision for a carriage drive and for a 
border of plants under the walls will permit, he has the 
nucleus of a pretty garden. 

In reality, the configuration of the ground partly 
dictates the style of a garden. Should the owner put 
his house on a steep hillside he will have to get his 
levels for it by cutting out at the back and building 




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THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 47 

up in front, and then he makes a terrace or a series of 
terraces. So far there is formaHty. There is no need 
to have cHpped trees and statuary, but terracing of some 
kind is a plain necessity. In such cases as these the 
first point which has to be settled is where the architect 
is to end and the gardener to begin. The former may 
contend, with some amount of reason, that the terracing 
comes within his scope, and if his case is granted he 
may not be satisfied with providing a level space for 
vehicles in front of the door, but design a series of 
terraces, one below the other, connected by flights of 
steps. And these terraces must have copings, relieved 
at different points. So vases, and even statuary, creep 
in. When things have got to this point the garden is 
naturally (to use an apparently paradoxical phrase) 
becoming a formal one, because, so far as its most 
prominent part is concerned, it has become based on 
stiff lines. But still the clipped trees can be fought 
against ; still the high box edgings, the dense masses 
of shorn yews and trimmed ilexes ; and the lines of 
bedding plants, can be resisted. A broad border can 
be formed beneath each terrace wall, and this can be 
filled with groups of beautiful plants, arranged in careful 
colour schemes, and with climbers for covering the 
face of the wall. Arches can be put at the ends of 
the walks, and covered with roses, clematises, and 
other plants. 

When a person builds on a steep hillside it may 
be fairly assumed that the garden is not first in his 
thoughts. He is building for the sake of a view, or 
for a strong, bracing air. He can make a garden, but 
he cannot work with the same freedom and economy 
that he can on level or undulating ground. He is con- 
stantly under restraint. He may, too, have difficulties 



48 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

with water. These facts should be remembered by the 
garden lover who is in the position of wanting to build 
a house. When he chooses a piece of level or undu- 
lating ground for his site he is not cramped in the 
same way. The need for terraces disappears, and the 
architect is restricted to his legitimate sphere — the build- 
ings. The gardener can begin under the very walls. 

Walls, Fences, and Hedges 

What is the wild? Is it a plain meadow? Is it a 
heath? Is it woodland? In any case it will have to 
be enclosed, and so the first consideration may be the 
boundaries. It is not economical to fly first to brick 
or stone. Occasionally a large place is seen entirely 
surrounded by a high brick wall, but the cost is enor- 
mous. More commonly, wooden or wire fences, or 
hedges, form the outer boundary, and only the kitchen 
garden is enclosed with brickwork. It may be desirable 
to enclose a small place entirely with brick walls, and 
the cost, making the allowances for fluctuations due 
to distance of carting, nature of ground, and varying 
rates of pay for labourers, may be calculated at about 
^^400 for a single acre, j;^6oo for two acres, and ;^8oo 
for four acres. This is allowing for a wall with three- 
feet foundations, six feet high, nine inches (the minimum) 
thick, and with fourteen-inch pillars at every ten feet. 
Stone will be cheaper than bricks in some districts, 
but dearer in most. 

As an alternative to brick or stone walls, there are 
wooden fences. Close oak park fencing is the best, 
as it is extremely durable, but the cost of enclosing an 
acre with it would hardly be less than ;^ioo. Two 
acres would cost half as much again, and four acres 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 49 

double. Open "spar" or "pale" fencing is used a 
great deal, as it only costs about half as much as a 
close oak fence. In districts where larch is abundant 
it may cost even less. 

There is still another alternative, and that is a gal- 
vanised wire fence, with metal or oak uprights. It is 
cheaper even than a spar fence, but not much, because 
it will have to be supplemented by wire netting to 
keep out sheep. Further, it should have a top strand 
of barbed wire, as cattle are very fond of scraping 
their horns in it, and pulling it to pieces. 

Hedges are the cheapest form of boundary, and the 
person who has to study economy naturally turns to 
them. He must remember, however, that even in 
favourable circumstances, that is, in good soil, and 
when properly treated, it is three years before new 
hedges are strong enough to stop heavy stock. A 
young hedge ought to be protected from sheep and 
cattle by hurdles until it is four feet high, and well 
bushed from the base upward. Four feet, or even six, 
of soft twigs on a loose base will not repel a bullock. 
The hedge has to be pruned hard back when first 
planted, and again a second year in order to get the 
dense, firm bottom which is so necessary. Quick or 
whitethorn is the most in request, and plants which 
have been once shifted in the nursery will cost about 
seven shillings and sixpence per 100. Assuming that 
a single row were planted, the plants nine inches apart, 
the cost in plants would be about four guineas per acre. 
It is a common and good plan to plant a double row, 
and this has every advantage except that it increases 
the cost in plants. 

Oval-leaved privet is used a great deal for garden 
hedges, partly because of its density, and partly because 

D 



50 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

it is evergreen, but it is not so suitable for boundary 
hedges, on account of the partiality which sheep have 
for it. Yew is objectionable because it is poisonous 
to stock, and a horse cannot be safely turned out into 
a field where there is a yew hedge. Laurels, myrobalan 
(myrobella), plum, holly, and hornbeam are other popular 
hedge plants. They have their merits, but none of them 
excels quick. 

Planning Gardens 

Our ground, then, is in the way for being enclosed, 
and the next thing to consider is laying it out. House 
and garden must be considered in association. The 
former should not be close to the road, or it will receive 
much dust; on the other hand, if put far back the 
materials for building must be carted farther, thus 
adding to the cost, and there will be a greater expendi- 
ture on the carriage drive. Each person must strike his 
own balance amid these conflicting considerations. He 
will doubtless arrange for his house to face south, for 
the sake of cheerfulness and warmth ; and, if there is 
any choice of elevations, place it on a slight acclivity, 
with the object of avoiding damp and frost, and of 
facilitating the outflow of sewage. 

Except in the case of very large places, it is desirable 
that the garden should begin quite at the entrance gates. 
First may come a belt of trees and shrubs to hide the 
road, then, skirting the drive, a broad band— not a mere 
strip— of turf, which may be broken, if desired, with 
clumps of bamboo or pampas grass. Beyond the band 
of turf, and following the outline of the drive almost 
to the house door, there may be a pergola, clad with 
roses and other climbers, and with a broad border at 
the front filled with groups of selected hardy flowers. 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 51 

The widening of the drive at the front of the house will 
permit of the turning of vehicles, and beyond, opposite 
the principal windows, may be the lawn, which should 
be backed with flowers and shrubs, either in a con- 
tinuous sweep of border outside, or in a series of large 
beds within the margins. 

A road or path may branch off from the main drive 
to the kitchen and stables, and this may be screened 
with shrubs. The flower garden may be continued at 
the back if space and means permit. A small meadow 
is, however, very pleasant and useful, and costs much 
less in upkeep than garden ground of the same area. 
Or an orchard may be planted, with a kitchen garden, 
and possibly glass houses, beside or beyond it. 

In view of the immense diversity in such important 
matters as site, taste, area, and surroundings, it is diffi- 
cult to do more than generalise, but the plans given in 
this work may offer suggestions which, in conjunction 
with the hints here given, may assist beginners in the 
art of garden-making. Let us note a few things which 
should be provided, and a few which should be avoided. 
We should provide— {\) Abundance of turf; (2) suffi- 
cient trees and shrubs to screen walls, fences, and any 
ugly objects ; (3) broad borders for good hardy flowers ; 
(4) pillars, pergolas, and arches to give an air of grace 
and informality ; (5) a collection of fruit-trees ; (6) a 
kitchen garden. 

We should avoid — (i) Cutting down trees except under 
absolute necessity and after careful deliberation ; (2) 
shifting great bulks of earth if by any means avoid- 
able ; (3) setting up gaunt, unscreened fences or trellis 
work ; (4) creating any artificial features ; (5) making 
too much garden for the available labour to cope with ; 
(6) plunging heedlessly into expensive rock-gardens 



52 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

where the configuration of the ground does not invite 
them ; (7) building ranges of glass houses without 
counting the cost of skilled labour and heating ; (8) 
specialising in costly novelties before becoming properly 
acquainted with plants. 

Turf 

We may place two facts before ourselves at the 
outset in connection with turf : the first, that in nine 
cases out of ten a meadow will work down into a good 
lawn ; the second, that decayed turves and underspit 
make good soil. The former is of great importance 
when a garden is being made out of pasture land, 
because it tells us that instead of taking up all the turf, 
and then starting to make the garden out of bare land, 
we ought to peg out our paths and borders at the 
outset, merely taking up turf where it is absolutely 
necessary to make room for gravel and cultivated crops. 
This is a cardinal principle covering great considera- 
tions of economical working. There may be cases in 
which pasture is so coarse or foul that it is impossible 
to make green sward of it by mowing and rolling, but 
they are few. In the great majority excellent lawns 
may be made out of meadow grass. Cutting and 
rolling curb the coarse grasses, and give the finer ones, 
hitherto domineered over by their big brothers, a 
chance of growing, and the use of a lad or a village 
woman to spud out the worst of the weeds with an old 
knife further helps matters. There are some to whom 
the sight of a daisy or buttercup is abhorrent, and who 
must have a close, even sward of the finest grasses, 
unbroken by a flower of any kind. Such must make 
their lawns by seeding. They will have to take up the 
turf, cart it away, dig and manure the soil, cleanse it, 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 53 

reduce it to a fine tilth, make it firm, sow about one 
hundredweight of seed per acre in April, protect from 
birds, scythe the young grass lightly, roll, and finally 
fall into the routine of mowing, which will need doing 
weekly until the end of October. 

Should it be a case of dealing with arable instead 
of pasture land, seed-sowing to make lawns presents 
stronger claims, but even then turfing gives a lawn 
quicker, and if the imported turves are fairly free from 
weeds, and are put down on level, firm land in Autumn, 
Winter (but not during frost), or early Spring, and beaten 
well, a good lawn is secured in a few weeks. Even when 
seed is used it is helpful to form the edges with turves. 

When turf is lifted to form borders it should be cut 
into strips about a foot wide and a yard long, rolled up, 
placed straight into a cart or barrow, and taken away at 
once to the place where it is to be relaid or stacked, as 
this saves repeated handlings. If it is to form potting 
soil it may be unrolled, and spread flat, grass side down- 
wards, in layers. At the end of a year it will be ready 
for use. 

Making Borders, and Ground-work Generally 

Whether the " wild " be pasture or arable land we 
may apply certain principles to those parts of it which 
we intend to plant with trees, shrubs, fruit, vegetables, 
or flowering plants. In the case of the pasture, we may 
remove the turf first, as we have already seen, and store 
it for potting soil if a great many plants are to be grown 
in pots. But if we consider the borders and beds first 
we shall not take the turf away ; we shall chop it up 
and turn it in. 

It is often said that professional gardeners are 



54 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

enslaved by bedding plants, and have no liking for 
hardy flowers. A typical gardener will grow anything, 
and glory in it, so long as he has a hand in everything 
that goes on. Reader, do you employ a gardener ? If so, 
give him the opportunity of interesting himself in your 
herbaceous borders from the first, and see what happens. 
If you make your own borders without consulting with 
him he may go off to his geraniums in dudgeon. 

The writer does not believe that professional gar- 
deners as a class dislike hardy plants. A few of the 
old school may, but. the bulk of modern men do not. 
A gardener loves to see things of which he has the 
handling grow and thrive. He may have a special 
partiality for one particular plant, such as the chry- 
santhemum, and that partiality may have to be curbed 
if it should threaten to go too far ; but, broadly speaking, 
he will like anything which responds to his treatment. 
The trouble over gardeners and herbaceous borders is 
that people think that the men do not like them ; and 
are convinced, without proof, that the gardener has not 
sufficient taste and skill for this class of work. 

Almost any gardener can be led to take an interest 
in herbaceous plants, and it is well worth while to guide 
him in that direction, because he will probably have 
cultural knowledge, especially about managing soils, 
which will be very helpful. It should not be a case 
of master versus gardener, but of master and gardener. 
A working union should be brought about by tact and 
good feeling. In the unlikely event of the gardener 
being unresponsive, and even grumpy, get rid of him, 
and try another. There are different types of gardener, 
just as there are different types of employer. A har- 
monious association is so valuable that it is worth 
making an effort for. 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 55 

It is in the spade work that the gardener will be 
most helpful at the outset. Let him interest himself 
in this, and he will be quite cheerful. When it comes 
to the actual planting he may be allowed to put the 
things in, under tactful guidance, and the fact that 
the actual colour-grouping is not his, but yours, may 
never come home to him. The writer has known a 
gardener take ineffable delight and pride in a beautiful 
colour-border which, in the artistic sense, was not his 
at all. That fact never occurred to him, and nobody 
ever troubled to tell him. He read a learned "paper" 
about it at his gardeners' society meeting, and got more 
than a local reputation as a hardy plantsman and artistic 
flower-gardener. This worthy fellow has a mistress 
who studies human nature as well as flowers. Their 
relationship is thoroughly harmonious, and their joint 
efforts are splendidly successful. 

Gardener or no gardener, the beds, borders, and 
shrubberies should have the best of spade culture 
and manure before a single plant is put in them. You 
cannot build up a beautiful garden by scratching about 
with a sixpenny rake, and peppering from a tin of 
Springup's Floral Rejuvenator. As well try to nourish 
a boys' school on wafers and " squiff." Break up the 
soil a full eighteen inches deep, and work in, nearly 
a foot below the surface, the richest, most unctuous 
yard manure available, not less than two heaped barrow- 
loads to every square rod — double that quantity if the 
soil is very light. 

It is a good plan to tackle the wild in Autumn, 
because there will be plenty of time to do the work 
well, and have all ready to plant by the Spring. Most 
shrubs and trees, including fruit and roses, are best 
planted in April. The lighter the soil the earlier in 



56 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the Autumn it should be worked. Clay soil must be 
handled with judgment. It often goes steely under 
the influence of drying winds, and will not crumble 
until rain has softened it. Wait for the right moment, 
and seize it promptly. 

Stiff soil may need drainage. Should water stand 
within two feet of the surface in winter (and this can 
easily be tested by making holes two feet deep, and 
leaving them covered for a week or two in wet weather), 
the land ought to be drained. The gardener, or a 
person with local knowledge, will be able to advise 
as to this. The pipes should be laid in trenches 
eighteen feet apart, and two and a half deep, and 
should lead to a main drain, which will carry the 
water to lower ground, where a pool for water lilies 
may be formed. The cost of draining stiff soil may 
be about ;^io per acre. Deep working of soil will 
cost from eightpence to a shilling a square rod, the 
amount varying according as the soil is light or heavy, 
and according to the prevailing wage rates. 

Roads and Paths 

The making of roads and paths is one of the most 
serious items in the reclamation of the wild, and must 
be tackled in a thoroughly practical spirit. It is only 
in very small places that paths suffice ; in the great 
majority a drive is required. The narrowest width 
allowed for this should be nine feet, and the smallest 
area for turning vehicles eighteen. In the case of a 
long drive, where two vehicles may have to pass each 
other, the width should be at least sixteen feet. By 
multiplying the length by the width we can get the 
total area of the drive in square yards. To arrive at 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 57 

an approximate idea of the cost, which it is very 
desirable to have, we must decide on the material. 
Five inches of broken " rock " (rag or other stone), 
three inches of clinkers, two inches of flint, and two 
inches of gravel will carry all ordinary traffic if 
thoroughly compressed by a heavy roller. The price 
of the materials will vary with the district, and more 
particularly with the distance of cartage. The total 
cost, inclusive of removing the earth to make the bed 
of the drive, material, and rolling, will hardly be less 
than four shillings per square yard. The soil removed 
may be shifted at once to a position near which it is 
intended to make a mound or rockery, and it will 
then be out of the way for the time being, and ready 
for use when wanted. There is often a good deal of 
careless earth-dumping, with the result that it has to 
be shifted twice. If there is chalk available, removed 
from the footings of the new house, it may be used 
instead of rock, and the cost will be reduced by a 
shilling a square yard. 

Although drives and paths surfaced with gravel are 
the best, generally speaking, they are not suitable 
for gardens with steep slopes, owing to the fact that 
the gravel gets washed out during heavy rain. In 
such places the main drive had better be of metal, 
and the paths of cinders, shingle, tar, concrete, or 
asphalt. 

It is not necessary to have so great a depth of 
material for paths as for roads. Eight inches for main 
and six inches for by-paths will suffice. 

Whether roads or paths are being made the outer 
edges must be on the same level, and to insure accu- 
racy it is well to drive in a line of short stakes along 
each edge the whole length, and then place a builder's 



58 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

"straight-edge" across each pair from one side to the 
other, tapping the pegs down until they are level. 
The material can then be filled in, and if evenly 
rolled the road is sure to be on the same level each 
side. The path may rise a little from the sides to the 
centre, in order to insure water flowing off. Higher 
inner pegs may be driven in to get the level for the 
crown of the path. In order to provide drainage it 
is well to lay a length of two-inch drain pipes under 
the ballast along each edge, and set perpendicular 
pipes, reaching to the surface and there covered 
with gratings, upon them at every few yards, in order 
to carry the water to them. The path drain may 
have an outlet into a pool the same as the land 
drains. 

Gravel paths tend to become weedy, but can be 
kept clean if they are watered after a shower in 
spring with one of the weed killers which florists, 
seedsmen, and chemists sell. Rolling and light sweep- 
ings will help to keep the surface even and clean. 

Asphalt paths are not weedy, but they do not look 
so well as gravel, and cost about twice as much. Good 
asphalt can be made by mixing two parts of sand and 
one of cinders, both dry, hollowing out the centre of 
the heap, and pouring in enough tar to cause the 
whole mass to work up into a mortar. This should 
be spread on the ballast to a depth of three inches, 
raked level, beaten, sprinkled with coarse sand, and 
then rolled. 

Grass paths should be used as much as possible 
in the flower-garden. The disadvantage of their being 
damp during long spells of wet weather is balanced 
by the superior effects of flowers on a soil of turf. 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 59 



Edgings 

The need for edgings arises from the fact that if 
the soil was cultivated right to the edge of a walk, 
particles would be incessantly crumbling over, and 
making it dirty. To prevent this there has to be some- 
thing between the path and the soil, such as turf, tiles, 
or box. A band of turf is excellent, because it shows 
off both path and border. It should be really a band, 
and a broad one at that ; a mere strip is troublesome 
to mow and roll. The width should not be less than 
eighteen inches, and double that will be still better. 
The edges, or "verge," can be kept even and smooth 
by the use of a pair of long shears. Unless this trim- 
ming is practised regularly the grass soon grows on 
to the walk. If the upkeep of, and space occupied 
by, grass edgings are objected to, and a "dead" edging 
is preferred, it may be found in "rope-twist" tiles. 
Care must be taken to get a hard, level base for them, 
and to set them firmly in a straight line, otherwise they 
will always be untidy. It is not a bad plan to run 
in a little cement to form a bed for them, as it costs 
very little, and insures evenness. The metallic appear- 
ance of the tiles can be reduced by setting a line of 
thrift, London pride, pinks, or violas behind them. 

ROCKWORK 

This is an age of rockeries, and a modern flower- 
garden without a rockery would seem incomplete. 
Rock-gardening is full of interest and charm, but it 
is not flower-gardening in the fullest sense, much less 
landscape-gardening. A rockery should not be con- 



6o THE PERFECT GARDEN 

sidered as composing a garden, but merely as making 
an attractive feature of it, like a lily pool, or a rosery. 
A person may have a very respectable knowledge of 
Alpine plants, and yet be totally ignorant of flower- 
gardening. 

Inexactitude rides rampant in gardening, and there 
is an appalling confusion of thought in connection 
with it. Flower-gardening, as we shall see when we 
come to study it more intimately in later chapters, is 
the science of producing beautiful effects — of refining 
and adorning nature. When we take breadths of the 
earth's surface, make lawns, form beds, fill borders, 
plant shrubberies, and establish pergolas and water- 
gardens, we are practising flower-gardening. Rock- 
gardening is entirely subordinate and sectional. In 
a sense it is specialistic, because a rockery does not 
generally come within the decorative scheme of a 
garden, and may even militate against it. 

It is desirable to have a clear sense of the situation 
before plunging extensively into rockwork. There 
cannot be a doubt that many flower-lovers, who would 
find deep enjoyment, and gratify their artistic instincts, 
in making beautiful combinations of flowers, take up 
rock-gardening as though it were flower-gardening 
proper, and are disappointed. In proportion to its 
area the rockery is much the most expensive item in 
the garden, and when it is complete the garden 
proper still remains to be made. The fact is, there 
is an unfortunate transposition, due to mental con- 
fusion". Instead of dealing first with the really great 
consideration — the making of the garden, funds are 
exhausted on something which, interesting though it 
may be, remains only an item. It is as though a 
woman made an expensive cosy corner in a drawing- 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 6i 

room before she had considered a scheme for papering 
the walls, panelling, carpeting, and furnishing. 

A complete rockery has three main components — 
soil, stones, and plants. It is because one at least 
of these comes into view in the first operations of 
reclaiming the wild that a preliminary reference is made 
to rock-gardens in this chapter, instead of being left 
entirely to the flower-garden section. Soil is always 
being set free when a house is being built and roads 
are being formed. It comes from the house-footings, 
and likewise from the beds of the walks. We may 
fairly set it down as the most important item of our 
rock trinity, because without it neither rocks nor 
plants would be of much value. The points to re- 
member are : (i) that no soil should be shifted until 
a place has been found for it to go to ; (2) that no 
soil should be carted into the place from outside 
sources until it has been thoroughly established that 
the existing material is unsuitable. The underspit 
from turf is often very good soil for rock plants, and, 
if in any way suitable, it should be shifted at once 
from its bed to the place where the rockery is to be, 
and there laid in the most convenient form for use. 
A large body of soil is the brain of a rock-garden. 

There is another reason why rockwork may be 
considered thus early, and it is that a necessity may 
arise for stones to be brought in for facing a bank, 
or serve some other purpose, before the garden is 
begun. If a contract could be made, not only for 
these stones, but also for what are required to form 
the rockery, at the same time, it is likely that more 
favourable terms could be got. This consideration is 
important, because rocks are often a very costly item 
in a garden. The best Derbyshire or Yorkshire stone 



62 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

will perhaps cost a guinea a ton, the exact sum de- 
pending on the distance that it has to be conveyed, 
and twenty tons will not go far in a large rockery. 
Rag is a softer stone, and by no means so good, either 
in appearance or durability ; but if quarried locally 
circumstances may compel its purchase, as the price, 
delivered, may come down as low as five or six shillings 
a ton. 

Whatever kind may be used, common sense dictates 
that if early attention to the matter of purchase secures 
better terms, and if soil and rock can be brought 
together with the least possible waste of time and 
effort by the exercise of a little forethought, those 
requirements should be forthcoming. Certainly the 
rockery question is more than half solved when a 
capacious mound of good soil, and sufficient stones 
to form a liberal supply of deep "pockets" on all 
aspects, are provided. If there is any doubt of the 
fertility of the soil, a liberal dressing of manure should 
be worked in while the mound is being formed, and 
there will then be plenty of time for it to decay 
before planting time comes. 

Tools 

The provision of an adequate supply of good tools 
is desirable for two important reasons : (i) it facilitates 
the performance of the various operations ; (2) it de- 
prives incompetent men of a very handy excuse, and 
leads to their defects being exposed. 

A certain number of tools and appliances are 
essential to gardening, and it is important that they 
be of a particular character, fitted for the class of 
work which they have to do. There are not wanting 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 63 

people whose total outfit consists of a six-toothed rake, 
a trowel, and an old table-knife. These can hardly be 
described as adequate. They certainly will not make 
large herbaceous borders, build rockeries, and grow 
fruit trees. 

It may be well to glance at some of the most useful 
tools, and decide what are indispensable. 

At least one good spade is needed, and if more than 
one worker is employed there should be a spade for 
each. It will cost from three shillings and sixpence 
•to five shillings. A shovel should be added if much 
earth has to be shifted, as it is a much better tool for 
taking up loose soil than a spade. 

A strong steel fork, with five prongs eleven inches 
long, is valuable. It is much more suitable for digging 
some classes of soil than a spade, and is useful for other 
purposes. It will cost about the same as the spade. A 
short hand-fork with flat prongs is useful for shifting 
young plants, and is preferred by many to a trowel. 

Pruning tools may consist of two knives, a large 
pruner with curved blade and handle, each about three 
and a half inches long, and a small, flat-handled budder ; 
a pair of secateurs, costing about half a crown ; and a 
bill-hook for hedge trimming. The knives will cost 
about three shillings each. A stout bill-hook will be 
useful for sharpening stakes. 

A line and reel will be useful in the kitchen garden, 
as by setting the line straight rows of plants can be put 
in without fear of their wandering off into curves. But 
it can be dispensed with, if it is necessary to reduce the 
cost of equipment to the utmost possible extent, and a 
long piece of cord on two sharpened stumps substituted. 

Rakes and hoes are a small item, as they are very 
cheap. An eight- and a ten-teeth rake, and a Dutch 



64 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

and a swan-neck draw hoe, all mounted on ash handles, 
will be serviceable. 

A wheelbarrow will be wanted, and a medium-sized 
one, whether of wood or metal, may be expected to cost 
about a guinea. A swinging water-barrow mounted 
on broad wheels is almost as useful as a wheelbarrow, 
saving a great deal of time in conveying water. But it 
is less necessary if a hose and reel are provided. 

Turf tools are the most costly. In the first place 
there is the mower to consider. The best size for a 
single person to use is a ten-inch, and one of the best 
finish will cost three pounds or a little more. But it 
is possible to get one of a plainer type for a third of 
that sum. One must consider mowers as one considers 
cycles. If one would have a bicycle of high grade, with 
change-speed gearing, chain case, and other refinements, 
one must be prepared to pay more for it than for a plain 
machine. A scythe is not indispensable, but it is desir- 
able, especially for use on young seed lawns. An edging 
iron is good for cutting turf edges, and a pair of edging 
shears for trimming verges. Where turf is being shifted 
a lifter and a beater are needed, the former to pass 
under the turf and separate it from the soil ; the latter 
(which consists of a heavy, flat piece of wood mounted 
on a strong diagonal handle) to compress the turf when 
relaid. A roller will be very helpful in the management 
of the turf; indeed, it can hardly be dispensed with, and 
it will serve also for the paths. One twenty-two inches 
wide is a good size for one man. 

Of other things there are hedge shears, dibbers for 
setting out young plants, water cans, a syringe, plant 
stakes, tying material, labels, and fish netting for pro- 
tecting seedlings. 

This is a somewhat formidable list, but it is not 




o 



THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 65 

easy to see how it can be greatly reduced, except for 
very small gardens. We certainly cannot get the upper- 
hand of the wild, and garden with ease and satisfaction, 
unless we are properly equipped. There should be a 
dry store for tools, with grease or oily waste at hand 
for cleaning them when they are put away. They will 
then last a long time, and always be in the best condi- 
tion for use when wanted. 



PART II 

THE FLOWER GARDEN 



CHAPTER I 

COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 

Simplicity, which has always been a dominant factor in 
Art, should be the soul of the garden. 

The revolt against formalism, which did so much to 
rescue British flower-gardening from the feverish clutch 
of the bedding system, has proceeded to inordinate 
lengths. Flower lovers are beginning to specialise in 
hardy plants, just as old-time gardeners did in gera- 
niums. We are taught that we must plant in immense 
quantities. We are trained to associate informal or 
" natural " gardening with expensive rockeries. All 
this is regrettable, because it makes flower-gardening 
more complex and costly. 

The only system of flower-gardening that can do 
national good (and no system that fails to do this has 
any permanent value) is one that shall cover the 
country with beautiful gardens that are well within 
the scope of those who own them — gardens which 
afford moral and mental training and intellectual 
pleasure, while causing no embarrassment on the 
score of cost and maintenance. 

The leading advocates of "natural" flower-garden- 
ing have exercised a considerable influence for good, 
but they have been carried beyond their original 
objective by the unbridled enthusiasm of their sup- 
porters. It is the fate of many a worthy cause, that 

69 



70 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the glow of success leads to an exhilaration which 
impairs the judgment and obscures the vision of its 
leaders. Their outlook becomes narrowed. Partisan- 
ship develops. Simplicity is lost. 

It would be a lamentable anti-climax if the informal 
system, passing out of the control of the hands that 
set it in motion, developed such costliness and com- 
plexity that the bulk of flower-gardeners went back 
to bedding out in despair. The danger of this may 
not be apparent, but it exists, and it will grow unless 
an effort be made to check it. 

The really great writer is distinguished by simplicity 
of language. He does not secure his effects by literary 
thaumaturgy. He cultivates a clear, yet dignified, style. 
His sentences are crisp and concise. They blend with 
the smoothness of accurate mechanism. Gardening 
has much in common with literature, and should be 
guided by the same principles. Our national literature 
has been built up on the simple lines adopted by the 
great writers who compiled the Bible. It is the world's 
misfortune that the earth has been so much in demand 
for battlefields that there has been little to spare for 
gardens, and so we lack an inheritance of garden 
wisdom as priceless as that of literature. If the great 
spirits of the past had studied the art of making gardens 
as thoroughly as they did that of making books, we 
should not be in the welter of extravagances and bana- 
lities that we are to-day. 

Flower-gardening must take simplicity for its guiding 
principle, or, whether it be "formal" or "informal," it 
will fail. There should never be any question of a 
conflict of schools. No school of astronomy can alter 
the rules of the universe, although it may legitimately 
disagree over the canals of Mars. To suppose that it 



^ 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 71 

is impossible to secure effects in gardening without re- 
course to violence, is equivalent to saying that language 
is incapable of expressing a meaning without resort 
to hyperbole or profanity. A beautiful garden should 
have all the elements which make classics — clearness 
of thought, honesty of purpose, and grace of diction. 

The youthful writer revels in redundancy. With 
Roget's Thesaurus beside him he embellishes his style 
with an extensive vocabulary. One adjective is never 
employed where two can be dragged in. Flower- 
gardening suffers from the same elaboration. It is 
difficult for those who are saturated with the affecta- 
tions and extravagances of modern garden literature, 
to realise how much of pure beauty is possible in a 
garden that is built up of a few simple features — an 
outer skirting of shrub and herbaceous border, a rose 
garden, a lawn, a lily pool. There is no need for 
complexity, still less for trickery. If the mind demands 
the illusion of space where space does not really exist, 
the art of the landscape gardener can create it with 
twists, and turns, and curves, and undulations of sur- 
face. But why not truth ? With care in the selection 
and disposition of plants a scene can be created, even 
in the most confined area, so full of interest and beauty 
that there is no wish for, or thought of, illusory visions. 
Whatever is false or meretricious becomes insufferable. 

In gardening, space and quantity alone will no more 
convey pleasure than tautology in literature. A cultured 
mind finds a gratification in a beautiful piece of poetry 
that never fails. However brief the passage may be it 
gives satisfaction. A first reading does not exhaust its 
charms, it is read again and again. And the smallest 
corner of flower-garden, provided it be well done, will 
please in the same way. If the plants are as well chosen 



72 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

as the words of the good writer, if they are grouped as 
carefully as his sentences, the result will be harmonious 
and pleasing. 

There is an undoubted art in laying out areas of 
ground with trees, shrubs, and plants in such a way as 
to give imposing pictures, but that is not the only form 
of gardening. There is equal art in decorating a half- 
or quarter-acre plot. A miniature may be as artistic as 
a full canvas. The implication that anything in the 
way of growing and arranging plants is unworthy of 
the title of gardening unless it is done on a huge scale 
is presumptuous. Every educated person should culti- 
vate flowers, just as every cottager cultivates vegetables. 
It ought never to be said that a place is too small for 
flower-gardening. 

The first study in flower-gardening should be Colour 
— not System, not Design, but Colour. System and 
Design separate gardeners. Colour unites them. The 
study of Colour is equally the privilege of the owners 
of small and of large gardens. In it they meet on 
common ground. The same effects can be secured in 
gardens of varied area. By grouping plants, either on 
a large or small scale, in such a way that tfieir hues 
blend, we get beautiful effects, whether the plants be 
represented by half-dozens or by hundreds. 

Flower-grouping for colour is almost a new study 
in gardens, and it is fraught with great possibilities. 
It may be allied with specialism, if the flower lover 
have sufficient strength of character to rise above the 
temptation of becoming a slave to a chosen plant. 
Spring flower-grouping, for instance, can be conducted 
with tulips, especially if the tall, late flowering varieties 
be chosen ; the early dwarf Dutch sorts have to be 
used with great care, or they become merely a smear. 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS ^^ 

The ordinary " mixed border " of herbaceous flowers 
is often nothing but a higgledy-piggledy tumble of 
plants. The sole idea seems to be to cram in as 
many kinds as possible. If the subject of arrange- 
ment is discussed, it is generally in respect to height. 
"Arrange dwarf plants at the front, medium in the 
centre, and tall at the back," says the first adviser. 
" Bring some of your taller plants towards the centre, 
so as to avoid uniform, stiff tiers," says the second. 
In passing, the writer may mention that as between 
these two views he decides for the second, but he thinks 
all the time that the point is entirely subordinate to 
that of Colour. It is possible to mar a border by mis- 
takes in relation to height, but it is impossible to spoil 
it entirely if the colour scheme is correct. On the 
other hand, no care in arranging a border for height 
can save it if the colour scheme is wrong. 

When Colour assumes its proper status in relation to 
what are called "mixed borders," it is soon perceived 
that the "mixed" principle, as generally understood, 
must disappear. We shall no longer crowd borders with 
all kinds of plants, but we shall furnish them with a 
limited number of varieties, the colours and flowering 
periods of which are carefully considered in relation to 
each other. This is the flower-gardening of the future. 
It is guided by definite principles. It may be costly, if 
the newest varieties are chosen, and if fresh plants have 
to be purchased every year in order to bring the collec- 
tion "up to date." On the other hand, it will be in- 
expensive if standard sorts of good quality are chosen, 
and home propagation is practised. There will be bloom 
at all periods, and at the same time the quality of the 
flowers will be of a special character, and of particular 
interest. Before proceeding to deal with Colour in its 



74 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

seasons, consideration may be given to the question of 
backgrounds. It is possible to fill large borders and 
beds both effectively and economically by associating 
the chosen flowers with selected conifers, such as the 
swarthy and glaucous pines, tinted retinosporas or 
cypresses, and dusky yews. It is the modern custom, 
practised by those who write for wealthy garden lovers, 
to deride indiscriminately the inexpensive shrubs which 
are grown in thousands by nurserymen. This folly 
takes its rise from the narrow view that no plant can 
be worth growing except for its individual interest. 
Plants have other uses. We should not choose the 
Austrian pine for a special isolated position on a lawn, 
but it has its value none the less. This, likewise the 
Weymouth pine, Lawson's cypress, retinospora obtusa, 
the arbor-vitae, thuya dolabrata, the yew, and varieties 
of the Chinese juniper, make good foils. So, too, do 
certain non-conifers, such as berberis darwmii (also 
attractive from its flowers), the silver birch, Japanese 
maples, Bailey's dogwood {cornus baileyi), the golden- 
stemmed ash {fraxinus excelsior au7'ea), the bamboos, 
box, cotoneasters, thorns, euonymuses, tree ivies, laurels, 
hollies, laurustinus, and veronicas. These plants have 
beauty of foliage, bark, stem, or leaf, and if the tree-like 
growers are grown in poor soil they will develop but 
slowly, and be long before attaining to undue pro- 
portions. By choosing certain of these shrubs for use 
as backgrounds, large borders can be filled at much 
less cost than would be otherwise entailed, and so far 
from the general effect being marred, it is improved. 
Some of the dwarf, slow-growing things may be brought 
fairly forward to form bays, in which selected flowers 
are planted. A semi-circle of the common yew, en- 
closing an area planted with groups of tulips, phloxes, 




Delphinium Beauty oe Langport, white, introduced by 
Messrs. Kelway cic Sons, and grown by Mr. W. C. Blakeway. 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 75 

and Michaelmas daisies for Spring, Summer, and Autumn 
bloom is an illustration of the present point. The 
stations for the flowers can be specially treated, by 
deep digging and liberal manuring, to give that vigorous 
growth and abundant blooming which, in their case, is 
so desirable. 

Larch and oak pillars may also be introduced into 
mixed borders, and they will serve the double purpose 
of forming backgrounds, and of supporting roses, clema- 
tises, and other climbers, which will give grace and 
informality. One plan is to form a group of three 
unpeeled larch-poles, and plant within a vigorous, 
spreading rose, such as the Pink Rambler or F^licit6 
Perp6tue, and group tall blue perennial larkspurs 
[delphiniums) outside, in association with Madonna 
lilies [liliuin candiduiti). A glorious colour effect is 
thus produced, in which the grey-browns of the larch- 
bark play an important part. 

Tree stumps or heavy forks, planted with a selected 
sprayey rose like Alister Stella Gray, or with ivy, may 
also be utilised as backgrounds. An ivy-covered stump 
forms an admirable foil for clumps of rich, lustrous 
paeonies, which are assuredly among the noblest of 
border-plants. 

Viewed from the point of view here suggested, 
colour-study becomes of commanding interest. Her- 
baceous borders are homogeneous, and yet varied. 
Collections of plants are not thrown together indis- 
criminately, but the various components of the border 
are chosen, and placed in relation to each other, with 
the same care as the different parts of a picture. A 
painter who merely filled a canvas with figures that 
bore no relationship to each other would stand but 
a poor chance of gaining a desirable reputation as an 



76 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

artist. With him Composition and Colour go hand 
in hand. 

The flower lover, equally with the artist, should 
choose his materials with judgment, and strive to 
harmonise them in such a way as to form beautiful 
pictures. 

Spring Colour 

Spring is rich in colour, but not in plants of bold 
growth ; and while we have abundant material in 
snowdrops, winter aconites, anemones, crocuses, grape 
hyacinths, primroses, polyanthuses, irises, and daffo- 
dils for grass, bank, dell, and woodland, we have 
none too much to give us the impressive effect that 
we seek in the border. The purely early flowers are 
nearly all low growers, and it is not until late April 
or May that we get taller kinds in anything like quantity. 
It is not suggested that we should not use low bulbs ; we 
will certainly take them gratefully, and if we have a few 
brightly-coloured shrubs among the more sombre occu- 
pants of the border, such as the golden bell {forsythia 
suspensa), the star magnolia {magnolia stellata), escallonia 
macrantha, and deutzias, we shall not be without variety. 
Early Bulbs. — Snowdrops and winter aconites will 
begin the display in February, and in sheltered spots 
the lovely iris reticulata and Kreiage's variety of it will 
give bloom in February or March. Crocuses will be 
on their heels, and early daffodils like Henry Irving 
will be in flower before March is out, unless the weather 
be very hard. In April star narcissi, hyacinths, dwarf 
Dutch tulips, primroses, arabises, and aubrietias will 
be in full bloom. The primroses, arabises, and aubrie- 
tias will grow as they flower, the clumps expanding 
steadily throughout May. 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS ^^ 

Leopard's Bane and Tulips. — A valuable flower 
from mid-April onward is the leopard's bane {doronicum). 
The species c-aXlQd plantagineum excelsum (Harpur Crewe) 
has long flower stems, and is superior to the old kind 
on that account. It is useful, but the great flower of 
May is the late tulip. This magnificent plant is divided 
into two sections, one of which is called the Darwin, 
and the other is variously described as the " late," 
"cottage," and "May-flowering" section. Inasmuch 
as the Darwins are late or May-bloomers the terms 
are not distinctive enough for garden purposes. The 
Darwins proper are self or one-coloured flowers, akin 
to what the old florists called "breeders." Some of 
the "cottage" section are also selfs. It is too much 
to expect that the majority of flower lovers will ever 
have a clear idea of the difference between the two 
classes, any more than they have between violas and 
pansies, or primroses and polyanthuses ; and for our 
present purpose it is not necessary that they should. 
The point is that they should be familiar with a few 
of the best late tulips, whether these be cottage or 
Darwin varieties, and know how to use them to the 
best advantage. 

In the first place, it is understood that we do not 
plant single bulbs of a large number of varieties, the 
names of which have been taken at shows. We must 
plant separate clumps, varying from six to two dozen 
in number, according to space and means, of a few 
chosen varieties, which grow strongly, and have large 
flowers with rich, clear colours. Herschel, claret col- 
oured ; Kern, amethyst ; La Candeur, white ; Hecla, 
reddish maroon ; Minister Tak van Poortvliet, dark 
red ; Farncombe Sanders, bright red ; Pride of Haarlem, 
rose (not to be confused with Bride of Haarlem, which 



78 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

is an early dwarf Dutch) ; Sultan, maroon ; Sunset, red 
and yellow ; Bouton d'Or, orange yellow ; Gesneriana 
spathulata, scarlet; La Merveille, rose to orange, very 
sweet ; Mrs. Moon, deep yellow ; and Picotee or Maiden's 
Blush, white with pink edge, are such varieties. They 
are noble flowers, and all are cheap enough to plant 
in fair quantity. For the greater part of May, and 
during a portion of June, they will give glorious breaks 
of colour, adding an entirely new feature to gardens. 
Owing to the thick substance of the petals they do not 
reflex under sunshine in the same way that the early 
Dutch sorts do. 

It is generally thought that light, sandy soil is best 
for bulbs, including tulips, but these splendid May 
bloomers never do better than in deep, cool clay. In 
such land many of the varieties will throw up flower 
stems upwards of two feet long, crowned with flowers 
larger than turkey's eggs. They will not need any 
manure in heavy soil, but in light land it will be wise 
to give a dressing, preferably of cow manure, which 
should be dug right in below the level that the bulbs 
will occupy. A coating of superphosphate, at the rate 
of a handful to the square yard, may be worked into 
the surface soil. If desired the bulbs can be lifted after 
the flowering is over, the bloom stems being removed, 
but the leaves preserved, and planted in an out-of-the- 
way nursery bed, thus making room in the border for 
something else, such as salpiglossis, ostrich plume 
asters, sweet peas, or (shudder not, plant lovers !) even 
zonal geraniums. 

Crown Imperials, — Another tall bulb of much 
value is the crown imperial, a species of fritillary. 
The yellow and orange varieties are both effective 
plants, and the flowers are borne in a graceful, pen- 




A CLUMP OF DOUBLE WHITE PVRETHRUM, SHOWING HOW EFFECTIVE 
THIS EASILY CROWN PLANT IS IN THE BORDER. 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 79 

dulous truss on a long, stout stem. One buys bulbs 
of these in Autumn, as of tulips and hyacinths, and 
they are cheap. A solitary plant, if vigorous, makes 
a very striking object in a border, and a group will 
yield to few other subjects in beauty and distinc- 
tiveness. 

Columbines. — At that late period of the Spring 
when our thoughts are turning to roses and other 
Summer flowers the columbine {aquilegid) begins to 
bloom. It is difficult to leave it out of the border, and 
if its flower is hardly bold and decided enough to 
justify its use in colour groups, it is nevertheless 
beautiful, and the foilage has value. 

Pyrethrums. — The pyrethrum needs no qualifica- 
tion. The very early growth of its pretty foliage makes 
it useful as a ground coverer ; the flowers are large, 
briUiant, and well thrown up. No small point in favour 
of the pyrethrum is that it can be shifted at almost any 
time, even when in bloom. The more the flowers are 
cut the better the plant blooms, and the flowers are 
very useful for vases, in spite of the fact that they are 
a little stiff. There are always both Spring and Summer 
crops if the flowers are cut freely ; and if a little judg- 
ment is exercised the border effect need never be lost, 
however persistent the cutting may be. The varieties 
Agnes Mary Kelway, rose ; Decoy, scarlet ; Feversham, 
white ; Melton, crimson ; Othello, violet ; and Princess 
Beatrice, pink ; the first three single, the rest double, 
are examples of inexpensive stock sorts which are as 
good for border work as any of the novelties. 

The Lyre Flower. — A plant that is practically 
represented by one species only, and has no long tale 
of special varieties to its name, is the Lyre Flower or 
Bleeding Heart, which botanists used to call dielytra^ 



8o THE PERFECT GARDEN 

and now call dicentra, spectabilis. Its long, arching 
stems, hung with pink eardrops, have a pretty effect. 
Roots can be bought very cheaply in Autumn, in the 
same way as Dutch bulbs, and a group has a good 
effect. 

Summer Colour 

PEONIES. — Spring and Summer overlap with some 
flowers, and among them is the paeony, not second 
even to the tulip in the vigour of its growth and the 
splendour of its colouring, and even superior in the 
warm tints of the young growth in Spring. Given 
deep, rich soil, and a policy of non-interference, it 
will form magnificent clumps, single plants spreading 
to three or four feet across, and bearing a dozen or 
more huge flowers, highly coloured, and powerfully 
scented. As with the tulips (and, indeed, all other 
flowers), the best policy is to select a few stock varieties 
of established merit and moderate cost. A few answer- 
ing to these requirements are — Frangois Ortigat, purple; 
Rose d' Amour, flesh ; the Sultan, maroon ; Captain 
Lambton, white ; James Kelway, carmine rose ; and 
Lady Sarah Wilson, blush. The first three belong to 
the herbaceous section, and the other three to the 
tree class. 

Perennial Larkspurs {Delphiniums). — The delphi- 
nium also links Spring with Summer. A noble and 
stately plant, its tall spikes of mainly blue flowers have 
a splendid effect when rising near some dark column, 
such as the upright of an arch, a pillar, or the side 
of a gateway. The flowers blend with white Madonna 
lilies, which are nearly as cheap as crocuses, and may 
be planted in September in a patch of rather poor 
soil near the richer bed of the delphiniums. A 




Delphinium True Blue, intkouuced by AIessks. Kelway & Sons, 

AND GROWN BY Mr. W. C. BlAKEVVAY. 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 8i 

climbing rose, such as the glorious Carmine Pillar, 
may be in bloom at the same time as the delphiniums, 
and a pillar of it in the rear will complete a picture 
of rare and gracious loveliness. Belladonna, Bleu 
Cdeste, Dorothy Kelway, Persimmon, Salamander, and 
the Queen compose a splendid sextet of perennial 
larkspurs. 

Roses. — Roses are not generally introduced into 
the mixed border, yet in addition to the pillars one 
or two special varieties should be chosen for colour 
groups. First and foremost for this purpose stands 
the beautiful, scented, ever-flowering crimson Griiss 
an Teplitz, a rose with a future as secure for garden 
decoration as that of Crimson Rambler for arches. 
With heavily manured soil, and light pruning, it will 
bear clusters of flowers the whole of the summer, 
growing ceaselessly, and flowering as it grows. A 
variety like this is worth a thousand of the dressed 
fops of the exhibition tent. 

Phloxes. — The perennial phloxes with their noble 
spikes, and soft, yet brilliant colours, are indispensable 
for colour groups, and must be classed among the 
elect for this purpose. Varieties of different sections 
bloom from June to October. They do not like a 
stiff, damp soil, and such land ought to be prepared 
for them very thoroughly, being well broken up to a 
depth of eighteen inches, and lightened with liberal 
applications of coarse sand or road grit. It is not wise 
to use much manure, but bone flour is safe and good. 
Manure may be used with advantage in light, loamy 
soil. A few of the finer sorts are — James Hunter, pink ; 
L'Aiglon, carmine; Coquelicot, orange scarlet, deeper 
centre ; L'l^sperance, mauve, white eye ; Le Mahdi, 
violet; Le Si6cle, salmon rose; Papillon, blue; Ros- 

F 



82 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

signol, mauve, paler eye ; and Mrs. E. H. Jenkins, 
white. The phloxes may be grouped with plantain 
lilies {funkias), which have broad, handsome leafage ; 
and with the tall graceful bulb variously called galtonia 
and hyacinthus candicans. 

Hollyhocks. — Where space permits, hollyhocks 
can be set at the back. Queen of Whites ; Queen of 
Yellows; Mrs. Edwards, salmon; and Joshua Clark, 
carmine; are good varieties of this stately old cottage 
garden flower. The plant grows luxuriantly in deep, 
rich soil, but it is not benefited by over manuring, as 
such treatment conduces to disease. 

Irises. — The specialist in irises will have his own 
particular plans for this superb flower, so varied in its 
range of flowering, height, colour, and cultural re- 
quirements, but the " orchid of the flower garden " 
must be pressed into service for border groups. The 
" Flag " section, which has rhizome roots, not bulbs, 
will give the best material for this purpose. A splendid 
example of it is Pallida, a noble plant throwing stems 
a yard high, and with flowers of a shimmering lilac 
blue. Madame Chereau, blue and white, which is a 
variety of the species aphylla, is another grand " Flag." 
These are early summer bloomers, and are often at 
their best in June — a point which must be borne in 
mind if flowers are to be chosen for grouping with 
them. The day lilies {Jiemerocallis) are suitable, for 
they, too, are early bloomers. 

Geraniums. — For front positions in the border the 
hardy geraniums or crane's-bills are well worth atten- 
tion. They are economical flowers, for they cost little 
to stock, and quickly spread into broad masses. They 
are fond of a cool, clayey soil, and need no manure 
in such land. .The species sanguineum, crimson; and 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 83 

its rose variety, lancastriense, are both very pretty ; 
so, too, is the purple arnienum. Their one fault is that 
they are a Httle dumpy, and on this account may be 
elevated on stone mounds, or relieved by association 
with the beautiful St, Bernard's and St. Bruno's lilies 
{anthericums liliago and liliastruni), which have tall, 
graceful spikes of white flowers. 

Canterbury Bells. — Those dear old favourites, 
the Canterbury bells {campanula mediuvi), are among 
the cheapest and best of border flowers. Blooming 
for the first time in early summer, they will linger long 
over their first flowering, and yet give a generous 
second bloom if the fading blossoms are picked off. 
Remembering that hundreds of plants can be grown 
from a sixpenny packet of seed sown about a year 
before the flowering, it will be readily conceded how 
precious the Canterbury bells are. 

Sweet-williams. — There is a special salmon pink 
variety of sweet-william that flower lovers should make 
a point of getting, for it comes from seed as readily 
and cheaply as Canterbury bells, and makes beautiful 
border clumps. It forms a charming companion for 
the tall lupinus polyphylluSy which is a cheap and noble 
plant, both in its blue and white varieties. 

Poppies will not escape the attention of the flower 
lover. He can now, if he likes, buy special named 
varieties of the great scarlet species orientate. He can 
raise the Shirleys from seed. The writer has a large 
double, procured from an American seedsman, called 
shrimp-pink, which bears noble flowers on tall stems, 
and lasts a long time in bloom. In passing, flower 
lovers may be advised to try some of the seed specialities 
of the larger American firms, such as Atlee Burpee, of 
Philadelphia ; and Child, Floral Park, New York. 



84 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Some of their swans may be geese, but all are not. 
The flaming poppies can be provided with a background 
of goat's rues {galega officinalis and variety alba), which 
grow and flower freely in the poorest soil, are pretty 
both in foliage and bloom, last for many weeks, and 
are cheap. 

Foxgloves, with their tall, bending stems, will lend 
informality, and these can be raised from seed with 
sweet-williams and Canterbury bells. 

Sweet Peas are glorious features of grouped borders. 
Stations should be prepared by deep digging and heavy 
manuring, behind dwarfer plants of earlier growth, such 
as pyrethrums and paeonies, as the peas will not make 
much of a figure before mid-June. With proper soil 
culture, watering and liquid manuring in dry spells, 
and persistent gathering, the same clumps will be beau- 
tiful from July to October inclusive. A large, sombre 
object, such as a pine, yew, or cypress, makes the best 
backing for a clump of sweet peas, as it throws the 
colours out into bold relief. It is perhaps best to raise 
the peas in pots in a frame or greenhouse, and plant 
them out towards the end of April, placing them six 
inches apart in a ring a yard across ; but they may be 
sown out of doors where they are to flower if more 
convenient. The varieties are developing rapidly, and 
fresh colours are constantly appearing, but the flower 
lover will be wise to hold a reserve of standard sorts 
of proved merit, such as Nora Unwin, white ; King 
Edward VII., crimson; Queen Alexandra, scarlet; 
Helen Pierce, veined blue ; Miss Willmott, orange pink ; 
Countess Spencer, pink ; Lady Grizel Hamilton, pale 
blue; and Lord Nelson, dark blue — varieties which have 
distinctive character, and abundance of inherent vigour. 

Carnations. — The carnation lover will want to in- 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 85 

elude groups of his favourite flower for July and August 
bloom, and may well do so, for few things will be more 
admired in their season, should all go well with them. 
Unfortunately, they are attacked by a terrible scourge 
known as rust, which worries them sadly throughout 
the Winter and Spring, both out of doors and under 
glass, but worst in frames and houses. Spraying a 
solution of liver of sulphur over the plants, one ounce 
in three gallons of water, may be tried ; if it should 
not check the disease the affected leaves must be picked 
off, even if the plants are gradually denuded of nearly 
all their foliage. So long as there is a healthy central 
crown left in May the plants will grow and flower. In 
freshly broken-up pasture land incessant trapping with 
potato and carrot baits will have to be practised to 
preserve the plants from destruction by wireworms and 
leather-jackets. Lady Nina Balfour, soft pink ; Barras, 
scarlet ; Agnes Sorrel, crimson maroon ; Henry Falk- 
land, yellow ground ; Hildegarde, white ; Sir R, Waldie 
Griffith, apricot ; and Daffodil, yellow ; are relatively 
vigorous and free-blooming varieties. The old clove 
is poor in bloom compared with these, but not in 
fragrance. 

Pinks. — Clumps of pinks for cutting may be dotted 
along the front of the border, and for this purpose Mrs. 
Sinkins and Ernest Ladhams are still among the most 
valuable, although florists have finer-flowered varieties, 
notably Brackleen and Chantilly. 

Lilies, Ox-eye Daisies, and Evening Primroses. — 
Lilies will perhaps not be confined to the beautiful white 
Madonna, recommended for association with larkspurs. 
There is boldness of colouring enough in the Turk's 
cap {martagon), and in chalcedoniaim, pardalinum (the 
panther lily), tigrinunt (tiger lily), pomponium, and 



I 



86 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

ruhellum ; and these may be grouped with ox-eye 
daisies {chrysantheimim maxhnum), or galtonia candicans, 
and evening primroses {Qittotheras). The \2ir\&\.y fruticosa 
youngi is about the best yellow evening primrose, although 
biennis is of bolder growth. Both these and the ox-eye 
daisies will make magnificent clumps in moist, rich soil. 
There is no reason, of course, why the golden-rayed 
lily {atiratuni) should be excluded from any selection of 
this genus, and if a deep station of fibrous loam and 
peat can be made for it it will rise to noble proportions. 
Giganteuni is another tall and stately lily, well worthy 
of a selected position in the border. Both auratum and 
giganteum are the better for association with robust, 
early-growing plants, which afford them shelter in 
spring. 

Gladioli rank high among late summer flowers. 
There is no finer border plant for grouping than the 
old scarlet species brenchleyensis, which will cost about 
a halfpenny a corm, and may be bought with Dutch 
bulbs in autumn for planting then or in spring. It 
will probably be at its best in August, when it will be 
one of the most brilliant ornaments of the border. 
It looks well near ox-eye daisies, or a white phlox, or 
goat's rue, or any species of spiraea that is in bloom 
at the same time. Select varieties such as Comman- 
dant Marchand, Enchantresse, Sanspareil, Grand Rouge, 
L'Incendie, Formosa, and Marie Th^rese will strengthen 
the flower lover's affection for gladioli, but he may not 
be able to plant them so largely as brenchleyensis, on 
account of the higher price. The plants will thrive in 
clayey as well as in loamy soils, but they are not so 
well suited by chalk. It is well to lift, dry, and store 
the corms for the winter, doing this in October, and 
replanting in April. 




LlLIUM GIGANTKUM IN Mr. A. C. LENEY's GARDEN, 

Saltwood, Hythe. 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 87 

MONTBRETIAS. — One of the brightest and cheapest 
of flowers is the Montbretia, which costs little to stock, 
and spreads rapidly into thick clumps crowned with 
long, slender stems of orange, yellow, or red flowers. 
It is both bright and graceful. It does well on banks 
in shade, and also in cool spots near water. 

Cannas are even more brilliant, but need more 
cultivation, requiring to be lifted and stored for the 
winter, and planted in rich soil in May. But they 
are worth any trouble, because in addition to their 
beautiful flowers they have very handsome leaves, which 
soften the brilliance of the glowing blossoms, 

Pentstemons have been greatly improved by the 
Scottish florists, and they are now almost as valuable 
as anything we have for low groups. They have much 
of the grace of gladioli, with flowers like giant fox- 
gloves — one might almost say like gloxinias. The colours 
are very brilliant. Rose and carmine flowers with white 
throats are the best for collective effect. The plants 
may be struck from cuttings in autumn in the same 
way as bedding calceolarias, and are a thousand times 
more valuable. A cheap way of getting stock is to 
sow seeds in a frame or greenhouse in February, prick 
the seedlings off into other boxes, harden off, and plant 
out. The best of the varieties can be marked for pro- 
pagation by cuttings, which will keep them true to 
colour. If the plants flower so profusely and so late 
that there seems to be no likelihood of getting young 
growing shoots for cuttings, a few of the plants had 
better be deprived of their flowers, and given a dressing 
of rich soil, in order to encourage growth. 

Snapdragons [antirrhimwts) of the best Scottish 
strains are most beautiful and valuable. In addition 
to profuse blooming and rich colours they possess 



88 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the merit of growing and flowering continuously for 
several months, even in poor, shallow soils ; and in 
dry seasons they will be in beauty for a long period. 
Plants raised from seed in winter, like pentstemons, 
will probably begin to flower in July, and in all likeli- 
hood will bloom continuously until December. In cool, 
moist soils, in mild districts, they will give flowers most 
of the winter. Fine self varieties, with crimson, rose, 
pink, salmon, yellow, and white flowers, will often come 
from mixed seed, and may be perpetuated by means of 
cuttings. 

The Flame or Torch Flower {Kniphofia or tritoma) 
cannot be dispensed with in colour grouping for late 
summer and early autumn effects. Its burning lampads 
of orange, scarlet, yellow, and coral, glow with ardent 
fire among the thinning ranks of the border infantry. 
The typical ** red-hot poker " is the species aloides 
{uvarid) ; there are several handsome varieties of it. 
Corallina superba is excellent too. Half-a-dozen 
healthy, well-flowered flame flowers look very fine 
in contiguity to a clump of pampas grass, but 
they are also very effective when rising near goat's 
rues, Michaelmas daisies, chrysanthemums, and other 
late flowers. The plant is propagated by division in 
spring. 

Sunflowers and Golden Rod. — Tall, yellow - 
flowered plants that are serviceable in late summer 
are the sunflowers {heltanthus), and the golden rod 
isolidago). The former are best represented, perhaps, 
by the species decapetalus, multiflorus (Soleil d'Or is a 
good variety of this), and rigidus, of which the variety 
Miss Mellish may be chosen in preference to the type. 
All these form columns of glowing colour. The golden 
rod is slighter and softer, but infinitely pleasing withal. 




"mi 






J w 






o 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 89 

having a tender, shy droop of its yellow-crested head 
that is most appealing. 

Winter Cherries. — The fine species of winter 
cherry called physalis franchetiy with its large, triangular 
pods of vivid orange, is a fine colour plant that can be 
raised easily and cheaply from seed in spring. 

Lobelias. — The tall perennial lobelias, such as 
cardinalis and fulgens, and their different varieties, must 
not be overlooked. These grow about two feet high, 
and are very bright when several plants are put near 
together, and grown in rich, moist soil. 

Autumn Colour 

Autumn is naturally rich in leaf colour, and this 
can be supplemented by border warmth of bloom. 
It is true that the number of plants is limited, but 
including, as they do, Michaelmas daisies, dahlias, and 
chrysanthemums, they are full of the highest possibilities. 
Unless severe early frosts come, dahlias will last through 
October, and Michaelmas daisies and chrysanthemums 
will give flowers until December. Another very useful 
flower is the Japanese anemone {anemone japonicd), of 
which there are many good varieties. The false 
Michaelmas daisy {boltonia asteroides) is also valuable. 

Dahlias need to be chosen with great care, because 
many of the beautiful sorts which are seen at the shows 
have no garden value, on account of their short, weak 
flower stems. It is particularly necessary to exercise 
caution with the cactus varieties, which are apt to 
hide their flowers in their leaves. The paeony-flowered 
section is good for bold effects, although the individual 
flowers are coarse. The pompon or bouquet section 
is also excellent ; the varieties are compact in growth. 



90 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

and display their flowers well. Neither the show and 
fancy, nor single sections, are so good for general 
effect, although a few varieties have merit. 

Trenched, manured soil, and abundance of moisture, 
suit dahlias. If cuttings are struck in spring, young 
plants will be ready for the garden by the end of May. 
They should not be allowed to crowd themselves with 
foliage, and it is a good plan to restrict them to six 
branches, which will insure the flowers being well dis- 
played. Earwigs must be trapped with small flower- 
pots containing hay, or hollow pieces of bamboo. Of 
cactus varieties for the garden we might choose Bri- 
tannia, salmon ; Effective, fawn ; Etna, lilac ; Florence 
Stredwick, white ; Mrs. Carter Page, crimson ; and 
Mrs. J. J. Crowe, yellow. Of pompons we could take 
Bacchus, crimson ; Guiding Star, white ; Nerissa, rose ; 
Phoebe, orange ; Sunny Daybreak, apricot ; and Tommy 
Keith, red, with white tips. Of paeony-flowered varieties 
we could have H. Horsveldt, mauve overlying fawn ; 
Glory of Baarn, pink, suffused with lavender ; King 
Leopold, canary ; Germania, crimson ; and Dr. van 
Gorkum, mauve ; but this is a newer class, and it is 
probable that finer varieties will be forthcoming every 
year. 

The Chrysanthemum is of exceptional value, be- 
cause not only is it inherently beautiful, but it can be 
shifted from reserve beds to the border in showery 
weather when approaching the flowering stage, and so 
fill up gaps. The habit of the plant is neat, the 
flowering abundant, and the colours are brilliant. 
Cuttings may be struck in February or March under 
glass, and the young plants put out in April or May. 
With a little attention to staking and thinning the 
shoots (thinning of buds had better be left to growers 



COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 91 

for exhibition) beautiful colour clumps may be had, 
especially if such varieties as Gertie, salmon-pink ; 
Goacher's Crimson, red ; Horace Martin, yellow ; Nina 
Blick, bronzy red ; Rabbie Burns, pink ; White Quintus, 
white; Crimson Source d'Or, bronzy red; Framfield Pink, 
pink ; and Jimmie, purplish crimson, are selected. These 
will give flowers, frost permitting, well into November. 

The Michaelmas Daisy is one of the abiding 
glories of the autumn garden. Its perfect hardiness, 
neat habit, profusion of bloom, and great range of 
height and colour, render it a most precious plant, 
well worthy of close study by flower lovers. Propa- 
gated with the utmost ease by simple root division in 
the spring, or by cuttings, and growing in almost any 
class of soil, it is as manageable as it is beautiful. The 
best results come from culture in deep, well-manured 
soils, accompanied by division every year or two. 
Several varieties of the species ainellus, notably bessar- 
abicus, Framfieldii, and Riverslea, are good for early 
blooming. These are followed by the novce-anglice and 
novi'belgii sections, of which Mrs. J. F. Rayner and 
White Spray are good examples ; also by cordifolius 
elegans and diffusus horizontalis, two of the best perennial 
asters that we have. Laevis Ariadne and Calliope are 
a charming pair, and for late bloom we have ericoides. 

The Japanese Anemones will do us good service 
on more modest lines than their great sisters of the 
autumn border. They are easily increased by division 
or root cuttings, and thrive in most soils. Lord Ardilaun, 
Lady Ardilaun, Beaute Parfait, and Coupe d' Argent, are 
improved varieties of a very good old plant. Autumn 
species of crocus, or colchiums, or sternbergias, may be 
grouped near the anemones. 

Salvias. — In moist, mild places salvias^ such as the 



92 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

blue patens and the scarlet splendens, may be used with 
good effect. One sees them employed effectively in 
Irish gardens. They may be associated with white- 
flowered tobacco plants. 

These jottings show that there is no lack of material 
for making beautiful colour groups in Spring, Summer, 
and Autumn. And it leaves out of account the great 
bulk of splendid hardy annuals, which may be flowered 
in a few weeks from seed sown where the plants are 
to bloom. These, also trees and shrubs for winter 
and other effects, must have attention in separate 
chapters. 



CHAPTER II 

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 

The word " herbaceous " has come to stand for 
"natural" as the word "bedder" has for "formal" 
gardening. It may be that the garden is nearly filled 
with shrubs and roses, which are not herbaceous plants 
at all ; no matter, since tender bedding plants are not 
employed it must be an "herbaceous garden." 
IP. The great majority of the splendid plants named in 
the chapter on colour are herbaceous plants in the 
true sense, that is, they lose their leaves and stems 
every year, but live at the root, and spring afresh 
therefrom in Nature's new season. A rhododendron 
which holds its leaves throughout the winter, equally 
with a laburnum which retains only its stems, is non- 
herbaceous, but a Michaelmas daisy, which loses both, 
is truly herbaceous. Tulips and other bulbs are 
herbaceous too. 

After all, exact definitions of horticultural terms are 
of less importance than a proper comprehension of 
the uses of flowers, and so long as people can be 
brought to study hardy plants intimately, not merely 
to be able to name a plant from its flower, but also to 
know its wants and capabilities, errors of classification 
can be readily pardoned. Unfortunately, there is a 
prevalent mistake much more serious than that of 
definition, that of lumping herbaceous plants together 



94 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

as a class which will give interest and beauty without 
cultivation, and artistic effects without arrangement. 
This arose from the enemies of the bedding system 
trying to prove too much. In their anxiety to score 
every possible point in favour of hardy plants they 
drew parallels between a class that grows perennially 
in the garden, and another which has to pass several 
months of the year under glass, of a nature which sug- 
gested that the former were practically self-cultivators. 
If they were, the writer would say of them unhesitatingly 
that they were no fit companions for everyday human 
beings, and that it were well that they should pass 
away, and be no more seen. It is not the beauty of 
wild nature which produces the strongest influence on 
untrained minds. The silver cohorts of the heavens, 
the soft lights of sunset and dawn, the flash of spray, 
the gleam of gold on the spring pastures, all these are 
vain, because they are unobserved. Those who have 
to do with the studies of children know how trivial 
is the influence upon them of the plant which exists, 
and how powerful is that which they produce. And 
children of a larger growth exhibit the same trait. To 
the workman a broad stretch of marsh seen from a 
height would convey no message. The far-stretching 
acres of green meadow flecked with sheep, the brown 
spires of ripened bean stooks ; the waving of reeds in 
the slow waterways ; the sleepy turning of the distant 
millwheels ; the trails of smoke from the lichen-stained 
farmsteads, the hundred and one things that arrest 
the attention and fill the mind of the artist, have no 
meaning for the uncultured. And the spring wood- 
land, with its azure carpet of bluebells, its starry sparkle 
of anemones, its glistening columns of campion, is 
equally powerless to move. But a bed of asters that 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 95 

is the fruit of conscious effort, and stirs such essentially 
human emotions as those of pride and parenthood, has 
a real influence. 

It is the gardening which calls for effort, the cultiva- 
tion which stimulates heart and mind, that benefits the 
world ; all other is worthless. It is the garden-beauty 
which comes in travail that stirs the deepest love. The 
garden that grows under our hands, the plants that (as 
it seems to our limited vision) owe their being to us, 
are those that really move us. Children of our souls, 
they steal deep into our beings, and spread their 
influence over all our lives. 

We will not look upon hardy herbaceous plants as 
self-cultivators. An immense class, they present a wide 
range of requirements. Systems of propagation differ, 
seasons of blooming are not the same. Some will not 
thrive without special treatment, few with no treatment 
at all. The theory of the herbaceous border as a sort 
of Babel's Tower of plants, into which everything that 
is available shall be thrust, no matter what its needs or 
nature may be, is sadly, deplorably false. A herbaceous 
border is not a Ragged School. It is not a Penitentiary. 
It is not a Hospital. 

Those who want to garden with the least possible 
effort had better keep to the old bedders, if they can- 
not leave it alone altogether, which is the best thing. 
Zonal geraniums are really bright and cheerful flowers, 
which will grow in almost any soil, and can be bought 
for half-a-crown a dozen or less in May. They are 
good enough, too good, indeed, for those who affect to 
garden, but grudge study and effort. Hardy herbaceous 
plants repay the closest attention. They are beautiful 
and varied, flowering at nearly all seasons, often brilliant 
in colouring, and presenting a great range of height and 



96 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

habit. With thought, and hberal culture, they can be 
made to render splendid service. Just as seakale and 
strawberries will grow year after year on the same 
ground, and yield crops of a kind, but give far better 
returns when renewed annually in fresh, enriched soil, 
so hardy herbaceous plants will exist and flower with 
little treatment, but develop a totally different character 
under culture. It is only a few, such as paeonies and 
alstromerias, that suffer from frequent disturbance. The 
majority thrive best when divided, or otherwise pro- 
pagated, every two years. Deep digging and manuring 
should be practised annually. Each plant should have 
individual attention, for if it is not worthy of that it is 
not worthy of inclusion at all. Some, coarse rooters, 
will spread a great deal too fast at the base; these 
should be curbed and semi-starved. Others will be 
weak, perhaps owing to the thievish propensities of an 
encroaching neighbour, and these should be dressed 
with fresh soil and manure. Clumps must be kept clear 
of each other by neat staking and loose tying, in order 
to avoid that meaningless jumble which so often mas- 
querades as an herbaceous border. Most important of 
all, the impulse should be resisted which dictates that 
every plant that comes along should be stuffed in. The 
term "mixed border" should be expunged for ever 
from the vocabulary of the flower lover. No such 
thing as a "mixture" of plants should exist. A "mix- 
ture" of drugs, if you like, a "mixture" of nationalities 
in a gambling saloon ; but never a mixture of plants. 
Even where we are not grouping for colour effects, as 
described in the previous chapter, we should dispose 
our plants in distinct sets, so that each kind may dis- 
play its character and individuality. 

In deep, well-manured, thoroughly tilled soil, which, 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 97 

holding moisture well, is always cool and fertile, the 
great majority of herbaceous plants will thrive. Nearly 
all will do on clay if it is brought into a friable condi- 
tion, but many do not like clay when it is a stiff, inert, 
ill-cultivated mass, that clings to the tools instead of 
crumbling. Practically every herbaceous plant will 
thrive on good loam. Light, sandy soils are not ideal, 
but can be made to suit the majority of the plants by 
working them deeply in autumn, and spreading manure 
on the surface for turning in in spring, and by mulching 
them in hot weather. Shallow soils on chalk do not 
give vigorous growth, but often yield very bright colours. 
They can be improved by digging as deeply as the 
chalk will permit, manuring, and mulching. Where it 
is desired to prepare a special station for a particular 
clump the chalk may be broken up with a pick. 

No fruit tree, no shrub, no kitchen-garden crop, 
responds more generously to good spade culture and 
manuring than the bulk of hardy herbaceous plants. 
Plants which, in poor soil, are puny, almost ugly, 
become in rich, cultivated land beautiful giants. It 
is in this direction that the practical spadesman with 
local knowledge can be of great service. He will 
know when and how the soil is best dealt with. The 
writer knows of a garden in which a splendid herba- 
ceous border was produced from meadow in seven 
months, the gardener doing the cultural work, the 
employer the grouping of the plants. 

Herbaceous plants can be put in during autumn 
or spring. The exact time may well turn on the 
condition of the land. There should be no hurry to 
plant in ill-prepared ground, but time should be taken 
to thoroughly prepare the border, even if that should 
mean April planting. 



98 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Nearly all hardy herbaceous plants can be propa- 
gated by division of the roots, and this simple opera- 
tion may be performed as soon as growth ceases in 
autumn, or on its resumption the following spring. 
Perhaps the latter is the better time ; certainly, plants 
rarely fail when divided just as growth is starting. 
The soil is becoming warm, and rapid root formation 
is encouraged. Generally the outer are better than 
the inner portions of the clumps. Care should always 
be taken to get two or three growing " crowns " or 
buds with each division. 

A very large number of perennials may be raised 
from seed, and although fresh plants cannot, as a rule, 
be flowered so quickly from seed as from divisions, a 
larger number can be raised. A great many seed 
themselves in the borders, as poppies and other plants 
will, carpeting the soil around them with green seed- 
lings in autumn. These can be transplanted, and 
flowered the following year. Seed of most things 
may be sown in June, as this gives time to get strong 
plants ready for putting out in autumn, if desire^ 
the same as sweet-williams, wallflowers, Canterbury 
bells, foxgloves, and other hardy plants treated as 
biennials are managed. The procedure may consist 
in preparing a fine, level bed, moistening well, sowing 
thinly, covering lightly, thinning to prevent early over- 
crowding, and setting out six inches apart in a spare 
bed during moist weather in July or August. This 
always insures strong plants, and is worth the little 
trouble which it involves. 

Plants with thick or fleshy roots, such as Anemone 
japonica, the Prophet Flower {aniebia), the Plume 
Poppy {bocconia), Burning Bush {dictamnus fraxinella), 
Sea Holly [eryngium), Oriental Poppy {papaver orientale\ 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 99 

the beautiful blue senecio pulcher, and statice latifolia may 
be rapidly propagated from short pieces of root in spring, 
much as gardeners propagate boiivardias. In the case 
of stiff soils it is well to mix some sand and leaf mould 
together and spread under and over the root cuttings, in 
order to encourage the rapid formation of roots. 

Michaelmas daisies, and some other hardy plants, 
may be propagated by taking cuttings from the base, 
or side shoots, if desired. 

Timid folk tremble at the idea of digging among 
herbaceous plants, from fear of injuring the roots. 
It is this nervousness which leads to so many bad 
borders. It is true that it is possible to injure the 
roots of plants by digging, but it is safe to say that 
where one plant suffers from this cause a hundred 
suffer from want of cultivation and manure. If herba- 
ceous plants are grown in distinct, uncrowded groups 
in summer, clear of each other in spite of their being 
full of growth, it is quite certain that when they have 
died down the spaces between the " stools " will be so 
well defined that only the most clumsy and careless 
digger is likely to do any injury. Dig, then, without 
fear, but equally, of course, without recklessness. It 
will generally be best to use a fork. A liberal dressing 
of decayed manure may be dug in at the same time. 

At different periods during the spring and summer, 
varying with the weather, hoeing bouts will be neces- 
sary. Every shower brings weeds through, and it 
saves labour to deal with them when they are small. 
Periodical hoeing is an excellent thing for the plants. 
It takes the grower among them, and gives him oppor- 
tunities of seeing what they need, in the way of restric- 
tion, encouragement, staking, and tying. 

When the earlier things go off, and the foliage begins 



loo THE PERFECT GARDEN 

to get dingy, the plants may be cut down to the ground. 
It does not hurt them, and room is made for the exten- 
sion of later plants, or for putting out clumps of things 
that transplant when in bud, such as chrysanthemums 
and annual asters. 

Slugs and snails are perhaps the worst enemies of 
hardy herbaceous plants. They cannot do material 
harm to very strong things, such as Michaelmas daisies, 
unless present in overwhelming numbers ; but they may 
prove serious in the case of choice weaker plants. 
Dustings of lime at night, or soakings of Hme water, 
make them uncomfortable, and reduce their numbers. 
They may be trapped with small heaps of brewer's 
grains, and then killed by immersion in brine. Wire- 
worms and leatherjackets may injure fleshy - rooted 
plants, and will certainly be present in land freshly 
broken up from pasture. A dressing of vaporite, which 
is obtainable from seedsmen who deal in horticultural 
sundries, will check them, but choice plants ought to 
be further safeguarded with traps formed of pieces of 
carrot, impaled on the end of a sharp stake, and 
buried two or three inches deep near the plants which 
it is desired to protect. 

Prominence was given, in the chapter on Colour, 
to certain herbaceous plants of particular value for 
giving fine colour effects, but there are many beautiful 
flowers, not suitable for that purpose, which are worthy 
of culture. We need rarely restrict ourselves to one 
border. Where there is room we can have one capa- 
cious border for colour effects, and smaller ones, at 
the front of shrubberies, beside garden paths, and 
under house walls. Or we may have special herba- 
ceous beds. The dwarfest plants, and those of carpeting 
habit, may be put among stones, or used as edgings. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS loi 

The following selections, classified according to 
height, and with their colours, will show the great 
range of material which exists, and at the same time 
afford useful hints to the planter. 



Plants from one inch to six inches high. 



Ajuga reptans, blue. 
Androsace chamsejasme, pink 

and yellow. 
Anemone apennina, blue. 
„ alpina sulphurea, 

yellow. 
,, nemorosa, white. 
,, ranunculoides, yellow 
Campanula garganica, blue. 

„ pulla, blue. 

Cyclamen coum, rose. 
Dianthus alpinus, pink. 
Draba aizoides, yellow. 
Erinus alpinus, pink. 
Erythronium dens-canis (dog's 
tooth violet), pink and 
white. 
Gentiana bavarica, blue. 

,, acaulis, blue. 
Iris alata, lilac, purple, and 
yellow. 



Iris persica, lilac and yellow. 

Leucojum vernum (spring snow- 
flake), white and green. 

Linaria alpina, violet. 

Lysimachia nummularia (creep- 
ing jenny), yellow. 

Milla biflora, white. 

Myosotis alpestris (forget-me- 
not), blue. 

Omphalodes verna, blue. 

Phlox reptans, violet. 

Primula scotica, pink. 
„ viscosa, purple. 

Sanguinaria canadensis (blood- 
root), red. 

Saxifraga Fortune!, white. 

Scilla sibirica (Siberian squill), 
blue. 

Silene alpestris, white. 

Soldanella alpina, violet. 



1 



Plants from six inches to a foot high. 



Achillea Clavennae, white. 
Ajuga genevensis, purple. 
Anemone narcissiflora, cream. 
„ Pulsatilla (pasque 
flower), violet. 
Aster alpinus (michaelmas 

daisy), purple. 
Campanula carpathica, blue. 
„ ,, alba, white. 

„ portenschlagiana, 

purple. 



Corydalis lutea, yellow. 

Erigeron aurantiacus, orange. 

Gentiana pneumonanthe, blue. 

Geranium Endressi, pink. 

Meconopsis cambrica (Welsh 
poppy), yellow. 

Myosotis dissitiflora (forget-me- 
not), blue. 

Ourisia coccinea, red. 

Plumbago Larpentae, violet. 

Primula denticulata, lilac. 



I02 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



Plants from six inches to a foot high {continued). 

Saxifraga Hostii, pink and Thalictrum anemonoides 

white. (meadow rue), pink. 

Stachys grandiflora, violet. Triteleia uniflora, lilac. 

Zephyranthes atamasco, white. 



Plants from o?ie foot to two feet high. 



Achillea ptarmica the pearl, 

white. 
Anthericum liliastrum (St. 

Bruno's lily), white. 
Aquilegias (columbines), various 

colours. 
Armaria cephalotes, pink. 
Aster amellus, purple, and 

varieties.* 
Aster dumosus, mauve.* 
Cheiranthus Marshalli, orange. 
Centaurea montana, blue. 
Commelina coelestis, blue. 
Delphinium nudicaule, red. 
Dicentra (dielytra) spectabilis, 
pink. 
„ formosa, red. 
Dodecatheon meadia (American 

cowslip), various colours. 
Doronicum (leopard's bane) 
austriacum, yellow. 
„ plantagineum ex- 

celsum, yellow. 
Erigeron speciosus (fleabane), 
violet. 
„ Manescavi (heron's 

bill), pink. 
Eucomis punctata, green. 
Funkia grandiflora (plaintain 

lily), white. 



Gentiana Andrewsi, blue. 
Geranium sanguineum (crane's 

bill), red. 
Geum coccineum (avens), red. 
Gillenia trifoliata, pink. 
Hemerocallis Dumortieri (day 

lily), orange. 
Lobelia cardinalis, red. 
,, fulgens, red. 

„ syphilitica, blue. 
Lychnis viscaria flore pleno, 

rose. 
Monarda didyma (bergamot), 

red. 
Morina longifolia, purple. 
Ornithogalum arabicum, white. 
Orobus aurantius, yellow. 
Papaver nudicaule, yellow. 
Polemonium caeruleum, blue. 
Primula japonica, rose. 
Ranunculus aconitifolius, white. 
Saxifraga granulata, white. 
Senecio pulcher, rosy purple. 
Spigelia marilandica, red and 

yellow. 
Spiraea palmata, red. 
Tradescantia virginica (spider- 
wort), blue. 
Trillium grandiflorum (wood 

lily), white. 



* These are Michaelmas daisies. 




Ekemurus Himalaicus. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 103 



Plants from Hvo to three feet high. 
Achillea millefolium roseum Iris florentina, white. 



(milfoil), pink. 
Anemone japonica, rose, also 

white and other varieties. 
Campanula persicifolia, blue. 
„ „ alba, white. 

,, trachelium, blue. 
Centranthus ruber (valerian), 

red. 
Echinops ritro, blue. 
Geranium pratense, blue 
Geum rivale, red. 
Hemerocallis flava (day lily), 

orange. 



„ germanica (flag), several 
varieties. 
Lilium chalcedonicum, red. 

„ martagon, red. 
Lychnis coronaria, red. 

,, vespertina flore pleno, 
white. 
Lysimachia clethroides, white. 
Paeony, tree, many varie- 
ties. 
Pentstemons, many varie- 
ties. 
Spiraea filipendula, cream. 



Acanthus mollis, purpl 

white. 
Achillea eupatorium, yellow. 
Aconitum napellus (monks 

hood), blue. 
Aster floribundus, pink. 

„ Novi-belgii, several varie 
ties. 
Baptisia australis, blue. 



Plants from three to five feet high 
and 



Romneya Coulteri (Californian 

poppy), white. 
Rudbeckia grandiflora, purple 

and yellow. 
Spiraea ulmaria (meadow sweet), 

white. 
Yucca angustifolia (Adam's 

needle), cream. 



Plants five feet high and upwards. 



Actinomeris procera, yellow. 

Amicia zygomeris, yellow. 

Aster Novi-angliae, many varie- 
ties. 

Clematis fethusifolia, white. 

Centaurea babylonica, yellow. 

Epilobium angustifolium, red. 

Eremurus robustus, pink. 
,, himalaicus, white. 

Gynerium argenteum (pampas 
grass), white. 



Helianthus (sunflower) several 

varieties. 
Lilium giganteum, white. 
Polygonum cuspidatum, white. 
,, sacchalinense, yel- 

low. 
Rudbeckia maxima, yellow. 
Silphium laciniatum, yellow. 
Solidago speciosa (golden rod), 

yellow. 



I04 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



The following are a few of the principal kinds classi- 
fied according to their season of flowering. In most 
cases there are several species, and in some cases numer- 
ous varieties, of each. Good varieties of the principal 
kinds are named in the chapter on Colour. 

Those which will thrive in partial shade, and those 
which will tolerate a hot, dry place, are indicated. 



Spring 



Adonis vernalis. 
Alyssum saxatile. 
Anemones, shade. 
Antirrhinums (snapdragons), 

dry. 
Aquilegias (columbines), shade. 
Arabis (rock cress), dry. 
Aubrietia, dry. 
Bellis (daisy). 
Corydalis, shade. 
Daffodils, shade. 
Dielytra, shade. 
Doronicums. 
Geum. 



Iberis (candytuft). 

Irises, some dry. 

Lily of the Valley, shade. 

Pseonies. 

Phloxes and polyanthuses, 

shade. 
Pyrethrums. 
Ranunculuses. 
Saxifrages, dry. 
Scillas, shade. 

Tiarella (foam flowers), shade. 
Trollius, shade. 
Tulips. 
Violas. 



Summer 



Achillea (milfoil). 
Aconitum (monkshood). 
Alstromeria, dry. 
Anchusa. 

Anemones, shade. 
Anthemis. 
Anthericum. 

Aster (Michaelmas daisy). 
Bocconia (Plume poppy). 
Campanulas. 
Centaureas. 

Chrysanthemum (ox-eye 
daisies). 



Coreopsis. 

Delphiniums. 

Dianthuses. 

Dictamnus (burning bush). 

Echinops. 

Erigeron. 

Erodium. 

Eryngiums (sea holly). 

Funkias (plantain lilies), shade. 

Gaillardias. 

Galegas (goat's rues). 

Galtonia. 

Gentians. 




Yucca glokiosa (Adam's Needle). 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 105 

Oenotheras (evening primroses), 

shade. 
Pseonies. 
Pansies. 

Papaver (poppy). 
Pentstemons. 
Phloxes. 

Physalis (winter cherry). 
Polygonums (knotweeds). 
Potentillas (cinquefoil). 
Pyrethrums. 

Rudbeckias (cone flowers). 
Scabious. 
Senecio. 

Solidago (golden rod). 
Spiraeas (meadow sweet), shade. 
Statices. 
Stenactis. 
Thalictrum (meadow rue), 

shade. 
Verbascums (mulleins). 
Veronicas. 

Vinca (periwinkle), shade. 
Violas, shade. 



Geraniums, shade. 

Geum. 

Gladioli. 

Gypsophilas. 

H^leniums. 

Helianthemum (sun rose), 

dry. 
Helianthus (sunflower). 
Hemerocallis (day lily). 
Heuchera, shade. 
Hollyhocks (St. John's wort), 

shade. 
Hypericum. 
Inula. 
Irises. 

Kniphofia (tritoma). 
Lathyrus (pea). 
Lobelias. 
Lupins. 
Lychnis (dry). 
Meconopsis (poppy). 
Mimuluses (monkey flowers), 

shade. 
Monarda (bergamot). 



Autumn 



Anemones, Japanese, shade. 
Asters (Michaelmas daisies). 
Boltonia (false aster). 



Chrysanthemums. 

Dahlias. 

Sedum spectabile. 



Winter 



Anemones. 

Arabis, dry. 

Aubrietia. 

Chionodoxa(Gloryof the snow). 

Christmas rose (helleborus). 

Crocuses. 

Daffodils, shade. 



P'orget-me-nots, shade. 

Fritillarias (snake's head lilies) 

Hepaticas, shade. 

Irises. 

Orobus. 

Scillas, shade. 

Violets, shade. 



^! 



CHAPTER III 

ROCKERIES 

In revising some earlier pages of the present work, 
the writer observes passages which the hypersensitive 
rockery lover might possibly construe as hostility to 
a form of flower-growing which enjoys high favour. 
The more judicious reader will not so misread them. 
To state that a rockery is not a flower garden is hardly 
the same as saying that a rockery is undesirable, any 
more than stating that a chorus does not constitute an 
opera reflects on the chorus. And to condemn the 
dragging in of a rockery in a place for which it is 
unsuited, is not to suggest that a rockery should never 
be provided in a place for which it is suited. 

It would be foolish and unreasonable to take up 
an attitude of unmeasured hostility to rock-gardening 
merely because a few people have lost their heads over 
it. There are people who lose their heads over King 
Charles spaniels, but that cannot be accepted as 
sufficient grounds for advocating the immediate immo- 
lation of the whole race of dogs. 

The interest and charm of rock-gardening are con- 
ceded, not merely without reluctance, but with positive 
pleasure. If the pleasure falls short of enthusiasm it 
is because that is reserved for the larger aspects of 
gardening — the creation of beautiful colour pictures. 
The rockery shall form an item — an important and 

io6 



ROCKERIES 107 

valued item — in the general scheme of the garden ; it 
shall be one of the most cherished children in the 
floral family. But for the fear of the greater interests 
of the garden suffering, it would be easy to go further 
than this. Most sweet, most dainty, most appealing, 
are the denizens of the southern mountains. One's 
heart softens to a tiny, rose-hued phlox cradled amid 
stones as it does to a pink and white, smiling infant in 
its cot. 

One cannot wonder that women love rock plants 
when one sees how intimate is their appeal. They 
are not rampant, assertive things, growing like forest 
ponies, self-confident, exuberant, all but wild. For the 
most part they are small, gentle, yielding. Confined in 
their cribs of stone, they seem to stretch out wee pink 
arms asking mutely for constant love, and attention, 
and help. Dear, clinging, adorable morsels of plant 
humanity, they stir deep-seated emotions of protecting 
motherhood. 

In the small garden which affords no scope for 
flower-grouping a rockery will be supreme. It will be 
a little world unto itself. There the flower lover will 
spend happy hours, amid sunshine and tender influences. 
Some of the plants will be in bloom before Winter is 
out — a choice snowdrop, a clump of some beautiful 
species of crocus, as delicately pencilled as a cloud ; 
a dwarf but glittering iris. Spring will bring a host of 
lovely things — silvery cushions of cerastium and saxi- 
frage, dainty androsaces, sparkling phloxes, soft-toned 
anemones, gentians with the deep blue of Italian skies, 
silvery spires of perennial candytuft, and glowing 
primulas. Carpets of blue and white rock cresses and 
yellow alyssum will spread over the stones. Summer 
will give many beautiful things, and in cool, moist, shady 



io8 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

recesses colonies of ladies' slipper orchids will lift their 
graceful flowers. Autumn will yield blossoms too — 
perhaps a cluster of hardy cyclamens, the golden light 
of the sternbergia, and many charming crocuses, 
amongst others. There will be few months in which 
some child-fiower does not smile a winning welcome 
to the gardener. 

Yes, fancy, imagination, love, play brightly around 
the rock garden. We enjoy it for what it is, and not 
less for what it suggests — the pure air of the snow-clad 
mountains ; the clear ringing voices of the goatherds ; 
the glowing sheets of blossom on the Pyrenean slopes 
and in the Tyrolese woodland. We enjoy, but we retain 
our mental balance. We do not let enthusiasm carry us 
away, and rush us into schemes that are beyond our 
means. We know that rock-gardening is relatively 
costly — that in proportion to the area of ground which 
the rockery covers it will entail ten times the expense 
of other portions of the garden. Soil of the best, 
suitable stones, a large number of small plants, must 
all be provided. We see all this, and we take a sensible 
view. If we cannot have a large rock garden we will 
content ourselves with a small one. And at all events 
we shall have the satisfaction of knowing that if we 
cannot emulate the effects of our more wealthy neigh- 
bours, all which we attempt is within the scope of our 
means, and is the unaided work of our own hands. 

In the chapter " The Conquest of the Wild " we saw 
how, in the formation of drives and the facing of banks 
— operations that generally accompany the making of 
a new house and garden — we look ahead, and form the 
nucleus of a rockery. 

The thin coating of earth lying just beneath turf is 
generally very fertile. It is no better than the turf itself 



ROCKERIES 109 

when that is decayed, but an interval of several months 
elapses before stacked turf is ready for use. The 
"under-cut" is ready at once, and the only thing against 
it is that it is likely to contain a good many wireworms 
and leatherjackets, which are not desirable occupants 
of a rockery. In the hope of getting rid of them the 
soil should be laid in a shallow heap, when carted to 
the place where the rockery is to be made, and studded 
with baits of carrot and potato impaled on sticks, which 
can be drawn out and examined at intervals. Additions 
of lime and mortar rubbish will discourage the pests. 

The soil may be enriched with rotten manure. De- 
cayed turves which have lain in a heap for several 
months will not need this addition, but may be chopped 
up and used as they are. Full of fibre, the material will 
be thoroughly fertile, and such as rock plants love. 
Mere dust and manure are not good enough for them. 
They need soil with fibre. Road grit, mortar rubbish, 
and stone chips are good substances to add to stiff 
soil. 

In taking up turf, then, we find soil for rockeries. If 
the contractor who does our carting for us can lead 
in rock before our drive receives its finishing coat of 
gravel, so much the better ; we then get the second 
component of our rockery, and we get it without taking 
rough carts over a brand-new, highly polished, spick- 
and-span drive. 

Rock is not always easy to get locally. There may 
be no quarries within fifty or a hundred miles. This 
raises an important question. Since railway rates must 
come into the business, shall we not go the whole hog, 
and get Derbyshire stone ? Any of the nurserymen who 
send us catalogues of hardy plants, and show us their 
beautiful wares at the great flower shows, will give us 



no THE PERFECT GARDEN 

an estimate, and we can ascertain to a penny how much 
the stone will cost delivered at our station. Of course, 
the amount will be three or four times as much as we 
should have to pay if we were able to get rock by 
traction-engine from a quarry a few miles away, but the 
stone will be much better, probably. 

It is the difficulty of getting large stones that induces 
people to make rockeries of burrs and clinkers. It 
needs a cunning hand to make a pleasing rock garden 
out of these unnatural substances ; the more credit if 
success follows. 

The better the soil, and the harder the stone, the 
more satisfactory the result will be. The quantity of 
the former, and the size and nature of the latter, will 
decide us as to whether we shall be satisfied with a 
rockery, or can soar to a rock garden. For there is a 
world of difference between the two. A nice rockery 
may be made of a simple mound consisting of a few 
cartloads of soil, with stones embedded. A rock garden 
calls for arrangement — design. There is no reason 
why an amateur should not make a very satisfactory 
rockery, provided he works on the six cardinal points : 

(i) to provide good soil ; 

(2) to use large stones ; 

(3) to bed the stones firmly ; 

(4) to tilt the stones inward instead of outward in 
order to retain moisture ; 

(5) to make pockets wide at the top and narrow at 
the bottom ; 

(6) to avoid shade. 

It is not, however, so simple a matter to make a 
rock garden, possibly involving steps and terraces, and 
the use of very large slabs of stone. Where considerable 



ROCKERIES III 

expense is being gone to it is perhaps wise to go to a 
little more, and get the assistance of an expert from 
one of the hardy-flower firms. These people would 
give an estimate for the whole thing— stone, freight, 
construction, supervision, even plants too — if desired. 

The most common fault in home-made rockeries 
is that they are over-stoned and dry. Over-stoning is 
really easier when small than when large stones are 
used. Pieces of stone weighing an average of seven 
or eight pounds each are much more satisfactory to 
work with than stones weighing no more than a pound. 
If they are set approximately in tiers, mostly horizon- 
tally, except for the top tier, which may be vertical, 
they are likely to look well. The rockery will be dry 
and unsatisfactory if the stones tilt outward, because 
rain will be thrown off. If the stones tilt inward, and 
if the pockets are wider at the bottom than the top, 
water will soak in, and sustain the plants. What is 
said as to the necessity for moisture must not lead the 
rockery-maker to suppose that a wet site is desirable ; 
it is objectionable. But the plants must have summer 
moisture. 

When the tiers have been completed smaller stones 
may be placed between them at right angles, in order 
to form pockets. The rockery will then be ready for 
the plants. This *' terrace " system of rockery-building 
has four important things to recommend it : (i) it pro- 
vides an intelligible plan for the beginner to work on ; 
(2) it gives plenty of room for plants; (3) it retains 
moisture ; (4) it has a natural appearance. 

Let us now turn to a consideration of the plants. 
One of our first thoughts must be to provide for flowers 
over a long season, so as to maintain the interest, and 
this we can achieve without difficulty. We will classify 



I 12 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



them in their seasons, and put an asterisk to a few of 
the most useful and interesting plants for the benefit of 
those who cannot grow a large number. 



Spring 



Adonis vernalis, yellow. 
Ajuga genevensis, blue. 
*Alyssum saxatile compactum, 
yellow. 
Anemone apennina, blue. 
„ blanda, blue. 

* „ nemorosa cserulea, 

blue. 
„ Pulsatilla (pasque 

flower), violet. 
Antennaria tomentosa, a sil- 
very carpeter. 
*Arabis albida, white. 

* „ alpina flore pleno 

(double), white. 
*Arnebia echioides (prophet 

flower), yellow. 
♦Aubrietia Leichtlinii, rosy red. 

* ,, Campbelli, violet. 

* „ Fire king, bright red. 
*Cerastium Biebersteinii, a sil- 
very carpeter. 

Crocus aureus, orange. 
„ biflorus, white. 
„ chrysanthus, orange. 

* „ imperati, purple. 
„ Sieberi, lilac. 

,, tommasinianus, laven- 
der. 
Cyclamen coum, rosy red. 
,, hederrefolium, pur- 

ple. 
Dianthus (pink) alpinus, rose. 
,, arenarius, white. 

* „ cassius (cheddar 

pink), rose. 



Dodecatheon meadia (Ameri- 
can cowslip, lilac. 
Draba aizoon (whitlow grass), 

yellow. 
Dryas octopetala, whits. 
Erinus alpinus, violet. 
Erythronium dens canis (dog's 
tooth violet), 
rose. 
„ grandiflorum, 

yellow. 
„ g i g a n t e u m, 

white. 
*Gentiana acaulis, deep blue. 
„ verna, blue. 
Hepaticas, blue, red, and white 

(like shade). 
Hutchinsia alpina, white. 
*Iberis (perennial candytuft) 
corifolia, white. 
„ Gibraltarica, white. 
* ,, sempervirens, white. 
Iris biflora, purple, yellow 
beard. 
,, cristata, lilac, yellow 

crest. 
,, iberica, lilac and white. 
,, pumila, lilac, white 

beard. 
,, sisyrinchium, lilac,yellow 
spots. 
*Leontopodium alpinum (edel- 
weiss), white foliage. 
Linnsea borealis, flesh. 
Linum alpinum, blue. 
,, arboreum, yellow. 



ROCKERIES 



113 



Myosotis alpestris (forget-me- 
not), blue. 

* ,, dissitiflora, blue. 
*Narcissus cyclamineus, yellow. 

* ,, Johnstoni, Queen of 

Spain, yellow. 
„ triandrus (angel's 
tears daffodil), 
yellow. 
,, triandrus albus, 

white. 
Omphalodes verna, blue. 
Orobus vernus, blue. 
Oxalis floribunda, rose. 
Phlox divaricata, lilac. 
,, ovata, red. 
„ reptans, violet. 
„ subulata, white. 

* „ „ frondosa, rose. 

* „ „ Newry Seed- 

ling, lilac. 

* „ ,, Vivid, rose. 
Primula denticulata, lilac. 



♦Primula japonica, crimson 
(cool place). 
,, marginata, violet. 

* „ rosea, rose (cool 

place). 
,, scotica, purple, yellow 
centre. 
Ranunculus amplexicaulis, 

white. 

Saxifraga (rockfoil) aizoon, 

cream. 

,, ceratophylla, white. 

„ cordifolia pyramid- 

alis, red. 

* ,, granulata, white. 

* ,, oppositifolia major, 

purple. 

* „ Wallacei, white. 
Soldanella alpina, violet. 
Triteleia uniflora, lilac. 
Veronica chamaedrys, blue. 
Waldsteinia trifolia, yellow. 



Summer 



Acaena microphylla, red and 

green. 
Acantholimon glumaceum, 

rose. 
Achillea Clavennas, white. 

* „ tomentosa, yellow. 
/Ethionema grandiflorum, 

rose. 
*Androsace carnea, rose. 

* ,, lanuginosa, rose. 
,, villosa, rose. 

Antennaria dioica, pink. 
*Arenaria balearica (sandwort), 

white. 
*Armeria cephalotes (thrift), 

crimson. 
Aster alpinus, purple. 



Campanula carpathica, blue. 
,, ,, alba, 

white. 

* ,, garganica, blue. 

* „ puUa, blue. 

,, Raineri, blue. 

Cheiranthus Marshalli, orange. 
Convolvulus mauritanicus, 

blue, white throat. 
Coronilla varia, rose, trailer. 
Cyclamen europaeum, red. 
Cypripedium calceolus, red 
and yellow. 
„ spectabile, rose 

and white. 
Dianthus alpinus, rose. 
„ alpestris, red. 
H 



114 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



Dianthus cruentus, red. 

* „ deltoides (maiden 

pink), rose. 
,, neglectus, rose. 

* ,, superbus, rose. 
Epigsea repens, white, creep- 
ing. 

Erodium macradenium, violet. 
Gentiana bavarica, blue. 
Geranium argenteum, red. 

,, lancastriense, rose. 
Gypsophila repens, white. 
Helianthemums (sun roses), 

red, white, and yellow 

varieties. 
Iris Gatesii, white, marked 

.grey- 

Linaria alpina (toadflax), violet 

and yellow. 
Linum perenne, light blue. 
*Lithospermum prostratum, 

blue. 
Nierembergia rivularis, white 
trailer. 
*Onosma tauricum (golden 
drop), yellow. 
Oxalis Bowiei, rose. 
*Papaver (poppy) nudicaule, 
orange. 



*Primula cortusoides, rose. 
,, farinosa, lilac. 
„ viscosa, purple, white 
centre. 
Pyrola rotundifolia (winter 

green), white. 
Ranunculus montanus, yellow. 
Saponaria ocymoides (soap- 
wort), white. 
Saxifraga cotyledon pyramid- 
alis, white, 
hypnoides, white, 
longifolia, white, 
(stonecrop) acre, 

yellow, 
glaucum, pink, 
lydium, pink. 
*Sempervivum (houseleek) 

arachnoideum, red. 
*Sempervivum tectorum, red. 
*Silene (catchfly) acaulis, pink. 

„ maritima, white. 
* ,, schafta, rose. 
Thymus serpyllum, purple. 

,, lanuginosus, woolly. 
Tunica .saxifraga, rose. 
Veronica teucrium, blue. 
,, prostrata, blue. 
„ rupestris, blue. 



* 

*Sedum 

* 
* 



Autumn 



Colchicum autumnale (meadow 
saffron), purple 
(there are several 
forms of this, with 
different coloured 
flowers, both single 
and double). 
„ speciosum, lilac, 

several varieties. 



Crocus iridiflorus, blue. 
,, longiflorus, lilac. 
,, nudiflorus, purple. 
„ sativus (saffron crocus). 

* „ speciosus, purple. 

* „ zonatus, rosy lilac. 
♦Cyclamen coum, rose. 

,, europseum, red. 
Sternbergia lutea, yellow. 



ROCKERIES 



115 



Winter 

Several of the Spring species of Crocus may be in 
bloom in Winter. 



Cyclamen coum, rose. 
Iris alata, lilac and purple. 
' „ Bakeriana,violetandwhite. 

,, Danfordiffi, yellow. 
■ ,, histrio, lilac. 
,, persica, yellow, green, and 

lilac. 
,, ,, Heldreichi, laven- 
der, yellow crest. 
,, reticulata, violet, lined 
yellow. 



Iris reticulata Krelagei, purple. 
,, rosenbachiana, yellow, 

orange, and purple. 
„ Vartani, lilac, yellow crest. 
*Snowdrop(Galanthus) Elwesii, 
white ; there are 
several good va- 
rieties, notably 
whittallii. 
,, plicatus (Crimean 

snowdrop), white. 



Plants for a Dry Rockery 

We have seen that dry rockeries are to be avoided 
if possible, but it may be useful to name a few plants 
which will do better than the majority of kinds in a 
dry position. 



Acaena Buchanani. 

Acantholimon. 

Achillea argentea. 

Alyssum saxatile compactum. 

Androsace lanuginosa. 

Anthemis aizoon. 

Arenaria montana. 

Armeria laucheana. 

Artemisia sericea, 

Aubrietias. 

Campanula pumila. 

Cerastiums. 

Cheiranthus alpinus. 

Corydalis lutea. 

Cytisus Ardoinei. 



Dianthus caesius. 

,, Fischeri. 
Dryas octopetala. 
Erinus alpinus. 
Gypsophila prostrata. 
Helianthemums (sun roses). 
Iris pumila. 
Oxytropis canipestris. 
Phlox subulata varieties. 
Saponaria ocymoides. 
Sedums. 
Sempervivums. 
Tunica saxifraga. 
Veronica saxatilis. 
Vesicaria utriculata. 



ii6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



Plants for a Shady Rockery 

We have seen that a shady rockery is not good for 
most plants, but the following will thrive. It must be 
admitted that several are larger plants than most people 
care to put on rockeries. 

Anemones. Saxifraga geum. 

Corydalis. Sisyrinchium. 

Cardamine. Solomon's Seal. 

Epimediums. Tradescantia. 

Funkias. Tiarella (foam flower). 

Hellebores. Trillium grandiflorum (Ameri- 

Hepaticas. can wood lily). 

Orobus. Waldsteinia. 

Podophyllum. 

The person who studies rock plants will find that 
all cannot be treated alike. Different soils and aspects 
are called for. Some need winter protection. Some 
need lime. It is impossible, in a general work, to state 
all the differences. To deal with each of the principal 
kinds fully would fill a large volume. Experience, and 
perusal of special works, by those who are going into 
rock-gardening thoroughly will soon teach valuable 
lessons. 

As a final word, 'ware slugs and snails, which are 
often very destructive. Trap them with heaps of brewer's 
grains at night ; search for them unremittingly. Very 
choice plants may be preserved by placing a collar of 
brass wire gauze round them. 




o 



CHAPTER IV 

ROSE BEAUTY 

A BEAUTIFUL rose garden, with its brilliant pillars of 
ramblers, its glowing beds, its floral chains, its arches 
with their dangling sprays, its perfumed paths, presents 
an alluring picture to the flower lover. He may have 
come to it straight from a rose show, with its intolerable 
rows of green boxes, and its insufferable atmosphere of 
narrow specialism ; and he gazes with a great uplifting 
of the heart, and with a range of vision that suddenly 
grows wider — almost illimitable. 

A flower capable of winning a prize may never have 
been cut from the garden. There might be flowers in 
thousands — single and double ; small and large ; flowers 
borne on long individual stems ; flowers in thick clusters ; 
flowers white, yellow, copper, pink, rose, carmine, scarlet, 
and crimson ; flowers of many forms, and many hues ; 
but no bloom v;hich, cut and substituted for one of the 
flowers in a prize stand, would not be considered as 
weakening rather than strengthening the box. 

The rose exhibitor Axes certain standards, and they 
are not the standards of the rose gardener. The former 
concerns himself with the size, shape, youth, and fresh- 
ness of the individual flowers. He does not consider 
their cumulative eftect on the plants at a distance, but 
their appearance on a board immediately under his eye. 
He may or may not be a good rose gardener, generally 



ii8 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

he is not. His plants are arranged in stiff rows, with 
a forest of stakes holding up an array of grandmother's 
nightcaps, the object whereof is shade for certain 
selected flowers. As a rule, the place is only of in- 
terest to the rose gardener in so far as it contains 
new varieties, and certainly the rose exhibitor is 
generally a great man for novelties. He is always on 
the look-out for new things, with a view to putting 
something fresh into his boxes. 

The rose gardener will not go to an exhibitor's 
garden for lessons in the use of roses for beautiful 
effects out of doors, on the plants, but to places where 
roses are studied as garden plants, such as Kew, East- 
well Park, Downside (Leatherhead), and Mr. H. V. 
Machin's at Worksop. The gardens of exhibitors are 
often mere breeding-grounds for silver cups. They 
are not considered as beautiful creations, sufficient in 
themselves for human satisfaction, but as plant studs' 
which must yield a certain amount of stock that can 
be turned into money. 

A rose garden should be as much the expression 
of pure art, unsullied by any ulterior consideration of 
medals and prize cards, as a great picture or musical 
composition. If flowers suitable for winning prizes 
can be cut from it without sacrificing the main object 
well and good, but they should only be a secondary 
consideration. Directly they are put into the first 
place the garden tends to suffer. It is not that the 
plants are bad ; plants to yield prize blooms must be 
of the best. It is that the spirit of repression becomes 
active, and the plants are prevented from assuming 
free, loose, and graceful forms. It is only just to 
acknowledge that things are not nearly as bad as they 
were. Pressure of public opinion has led to the in- 



ROSE BEAUTY 119 

elusion of classes for decorative garden roses in the 
schedules of the principal shows, and not only exhibi- 
tions, but gardens, are the better for the change. The 
restricted plant still receives the most attention in the 
exhibitor's garden, however, because the principal prizes 
are offered for individual flowers. 

In planting a rose garden one should no more be 
dominated by the idea of money than Watts was when 
he painted "The Light of the World." The painter 
was inspired by the noblest and purest instincts of his 
glorious art ; and the rose gardener should be moved 
by the same influences. He should have an ideal, and 
it should be a lofty one. He should not desire to 
snatch a trophy from the hands of a rival, but to 
express, in beautiful flower pictures, the emotions 
which have taken possession of him. 

The rose is pre-eminently a plant which lends itself 
to artistic use. Consider the great diversity of habit 
which the different classes display — the long, graceful, 
arching growths of some, the drooping habit of others, 
the trailing shoots of the wichuraianas, the dense, 
bushy, rugose character of the Japanese. Observe the 
multitude of loose clusters in varieties like Alister 
Stella Gray, the massive, glowing bunches of the 
ramblers, the shower of brilliant flowers on Carmine 
Pillar, the thickly clad sprays of the Penzance briers. 
While most are leaf-losers in winter a few are ever- 
green. 

There are possibilities in roses which few plants 
possess, and which are still only imperfectly realised. 
In a great many cases Crimson Rambler is the only 
representative in flower gardens of a large and valu- 
able class. Beautiful rose though it is, it conveys but 
a limited idea of the wealth of material available. An 



120 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

arch of Crimson Rambler (often, too, in an inappro- 
priate place) should not be the ultimate expression of the 
flower lover's leanings towards the artistic use of roses. 
He should endeavour to form an actual rose garden, 
however small circumstances might compel it to be, 
and he should try to represent within it the various 
beautiful forms which roses take, not contenting himself 
with a few formal beds and the inevitable arch. 



Waste Places Beautified by Roses 

There are waste places in many gardens which 
could be transformed into charming rose homes. 
Perhaps it is a worn-out orchard, the trees of which 
are in the last stage of decrepitude, and have long 
ceased to bear crops of any value. Perhaps it is a 
piece of an over-large kitchen garden with a clay 
soil that yields nothing better than potatoes of poor 
quality. 

There are great possibilities in the orchard. Those 
old trees, which are picturesque for a week or two 
in spring during the seasons when they happen to 
bloom, and desperately ugly all the rest of the year, 
are veritable gifts from Heaven for supporting roses. 
With a little brisk, well-judged work with the saw, 
they can be made to yield double service. Some of 
the upper forks can be taken out, deprived of the 
small twigs, and set in the " picture beds " (see Chapter 
v.. Part II.) to support semi-climbing varieties — roses 
which are neither dwarfs nor pillar plants, but are 
often spoiled by being barbarously pruned to ground 
eyes, whereas if lightly pruned they would produce 
dozens of graceful sprays. The main body of the 
trees will support the typical pillar roses, such as 



ROSE BEAUTY 121 

Carmine Pillar, which will send its long canes gratefully 
up the gnarled trunks, and fling its fiery gonfalons in 
brilliant confusion about the topmost stems. Of 
course, manure will be wanted, for the soil may have 
been impoverished by the fruit trees, but it is easily 
provided. 

The bloated kitchen garden has possibilities also. 
People often plant potatoes with little other object 
than to fill up ground. But potatoes are one of the 
worst crops to fill up heavy land with, being susceptible 
to blight, and generally wanting in flavour. It were 
surely better to buy high-quality potatoes from lighter 
soil than to ''fill up" with an unsuitable crop, which, 
after all, hardly pays for the growing. Heavy kitchen- 
garden soil, which has probably been deeply cultivated 
and well manured, will grow splendid roses. All that 
is needed is a plan and a supply of suitable supports. 
The beautiful rose garden at Eastwell Park, near 
Ashford, Kent, is formed of the original kitchen garden, 
and the fruit trees which once grew there for fruiting 
purposes now serve as supports for roses. 

Charming Designs for Rose Gardens 

The rose garden need not be large, nor need it be 
very costly, either to make or maintain. A charming 
design can be carried out within the compass of a 
few square rods. Perhaps the rose lover will lean to 
the main principle underlying the gardens designed 
by the late Dean Hole — namely, a series of beds, 
each filled with one chosen variety of rose, sur- 
rounding an interesting central object, such as a 
fountain, or an arbour. The entrance is arched, of 
course, and pillars are arranged beside the walks, all 



122 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

of which are arched. The principle might not suit 
all places, but it has much to commend it. It has 
style, force, and character. It is a happy combination 
of the formal and the informal. If there is any tendency 
to stiffness in the beds, it is relieved by the liberal pro- 
vision of arches and pillars. Some rose lovers might 
demur to the one - bed - one - variety system, on the 
ground that it greatly hmits the number of sorts 
which could be grown, and also leads to sameness, 
but it has much to commend it. With a wise choice 
of vigorous, free - blooming varieties, beautiful colour 
groups can be produced, and the cumulative effect 
is far more powerful than any that can be produced 
by mixing varieties. 

Whether large or small, the rose garden must be 
free from stiffness. The design may be simple, but 
it must be harmonious. The aim should be to produce 
a general effect that, while rich and warm, is never- 
theless light and graceful. A square could be treated 
as follows : At each right angle form a bed which 
presents a concave outline to the centre. At each 
corner of each bed place a pillar, connected by chains 
with a series of pillars along each side of the square, 
thus completely enclosing it. Form in the centre of 
the garden an octagonal bower, a tall central pillar 
being connected by light poles with the eight outer 
pillars. Surround the bower with a set of eight heart- 
shaped beds, the point of each facing the centre of 
the eight bays of the octagon. Complete the design 
by forming four crescent-shaped beds, one at the back 
of each pair of hearts. 

This design is essentially simple, and it is beautiful. 
It robs the square of all stiffness. It is equally good 
on a large and on a small scale. It combines the 



ROSE BEAUTY 123 

formal with the informal. It is harmonious, and pro- 
vides abundance of scope for the use of the lovely 
pillar roses which are now so popular. They will 
climb the pillars, and ramble along the chains. The 
heart beds may be planted with one variety each, 
strongly-marked, continuous bloomers being chosen. 
The crescents may be filled with mixed varieties, diver- 
sified by low stumps. Here, then, is a plain, rectangular 
piece of ground turned into a beautiful rose garden, 
absolutely informal, full of lightness, grace, colour, and 
beauty. It is only one of many plans which may be 
resorted to in order to form interesting and charming 
features in flower gardens. 

Pergola, Pillar, and Arch Roses 

The great rose growers of the past were almost 
entirely exhibition men, and knew little or nothing of 
the making of rose gardens. Perhaps we ought to 
sympathise with them rather than blame them, because 
they lacked the beautiful material which we possess 
to-day. They had no Crimson Rambler, no Carmine 
Pillar, no Hiawatha, no Penzance Briers. They had, 
however, Felicite Perp6tue, Bennett's Seedling, Celine 
Forestier, Wm. Allen Richardson, Blairii No. 2, Maiden's 
Blush, the Banksian, Boursault Amadis, and Gloire 
de Dijon. Looking backward, one recalls the days 
when Gloire de Dijon was grown in nearly every 
garden, and was on the tongue of every rose lover. 
Wm. Allen Richardson, pretty in the bud, though 
coarse as a blown flower, also had a wide circle of 
admirers. Where are these old favourites now ? Some 
of the old trees still live, but the number of fresh 
ones planted can only be small compared with what 



124 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

it used to be. Both Gloire de Dijon and Wm. Allen 
Richardson are wall rather than pillar plants, but 
Felicit6 Perp^tue and Bennett's Seedling are admirable 
pillar roses. The former clouds its supports over 
with a beautiful white cumulus, the latter has marvel- 
lous vigour of growth, and, speedily climbing the 
loftiest pillar, proceeds to scramble along any support 
which presents itself. The pretty little evergreen, 
yellow-flowered Banksian still enjoys a certain measure 
of favour, but for the rest — finis ! Celine Forestier and 
Maiden's Blush, Boursault Amadis and Blairii No. 2, 
Fortune's Yellow and Persian Yellow — these and many 
other once-popular roses are gone. They served in 
their day, and because there is something of sentiment 
— of early loves and youthful illusions — associated 
with them, we give them one kind thought before we 
part with them for ever. 

The Crimson, Pink (Euphrosyne), White (Thalia), 
Yellow (Aglaia), and Blush Ramblers, Dorothy Perkins, 
Lady Gay, Hiawatha, the Paradise Rambler, Carmine 
Pillar, Mrs. Flight, Ards Rover, the Penzance Briers, 
and Longworth Rambler are the pillar, arch, and 
pergola roses of to-day. Of course. Crimson Rambler 
heads the list ; equally of course, Dorothy Perkins 
comes second ; equally of course, Carmine Pillar 
comes third. These form our great trinity ; these 
are the three graces of our pleasaunce. We take them 
first, and add others as our space permits. Carmine 
Pillar will bloom in June, and then pass ; Crimson 
Rambler will bloom in July and August, and pass ; 
Dorothy Perkins will bloom in July and August, but 
will not pass ; she will bloom on and on until the 
autumn. Ought we not, after all, to put her at the 
head of our list ? Should she not take precedence 




Crimson Rambler Rose growing over an old tree in 
Mr. a. C. Leney's Garden, Saltwood, Hythe. 



ROSE BEAUTY 125 

even of Crimson Rambler ? This is a question for 
debate, but for calm debate ; there must be no acrimony 
in the rose garden. 

Where, pray, lies the much-vaunted superiority of 
Lady Gay over Dorothy Perkins ? A little deeper 
tinge of colour, some say. It is not always discernible, 
if ever ; and even if it were, what matter ? The colour 
of Dorothy Perkins is a lovely shade of pink ; we do 
not want it deeper. We can do, of course, with a rose 
as good as Dorothy Perkins which has deeper-coloured 
flowers, but we shall not turn Dorothy Perkins out to 
make room for it. 

There are, too, the wichuraianas, so often, and 
rightly, recommended for banks, but also good for 
pillars. We ought to feel that we owe a special debt 
of gratitude to the wichuraianas, because they are not 
only beautiful and valuable in themselves, with their 
strong stems, lustrous leaves, beautiful flowers, and 
accommodating nature, but in union with other kinds 
they have given us some of our best sorts. Dorothy 
Perkins and the Paradise Rambler are two of wichu- 
raiana blood. Many people know nothing of the 
wichuraiana rose. The name has a strange, unfamiliar, 
almost uncanny, sound. The wichuraiana is a rose 
from Japan, improved in America, and now represented 
by several varieties, both single and double, and of 
different colours. The type is white flowered, but 
the crimson (rubra) is better. The plants grow with 
the utmost vigour, forming thickets of strong stems. 
They keep on growing well into the autumn, and the 
new wood flowers as it grows, so that the plants are 
nearly always in bloom. The stems are ruddy, and 
the leaves highly polished. One plant, put out in good 
soil, will speedily clothe a large bank. Decidedly we 



126 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

must give due thought to the wichuraianas. If a 
standard rose with a weeping head is wanted, let the 
first choice be Dorothy Perkins, and the second wichu- 
raiana rubra. An old rose called Charles Lawson was 
used a good deal for this purpose in years gone by, but 
it will never be used again by any one who has seen the 
two varieties just named. 

We consider supports in the chapter on Climbers 
(Chapter VII.), and see that larch and oak, with the 
base tarred, creosoted, or charred, could be used. One 
can often buy short, twisted pieces of oak, suitable for 
the upper part of arches, in country nurseries, or at 
woodyards. In the case of pillars we can use single 
poles, or, if material is abundant, set three or four in a 
group. Pergola-formation is discussed in the climber 
chapter. 

We must do our pillar roses well, and the first step 
is to provide deeply-dug, heavily-manured soil. The 
ground ought to be broken up to double the depth of 
a full-sized spade, and a thick coat of manure spread 
between the two layers. If there is chalk near the 
surface it might be broken up, and some of it removed 
to allow of space for manure and (if available) turves. 
This greatly increases the labour, but it is almost a 
necessity, for roses will not thrive in shallow soil over- 
lying chalk. Heavy loams are the best, but lighter soils 
can be made to answer if they are well deepened and 
manured, and if a mulching of manure is spread over 
the surface after the planting is done. It is desirable to 
plant in November, but spring planting will do on stiff, 
cool "holding" soils. It is not safe on light and dry 
ones. 

The pruning of pillar roses is a totally different busi- 
ness from the pruning of dwarfs grown for exhibition. 



ROSE BEAUTY 127 

Experts appear to differ as to whether it is advisable 
to cut the canes hard back soon after the planting in 
spring or to leave them intact. Some growers prune 
the canes almost to the ground, and this is certainly a 
safe course to adopt, because it is followed by vigorous 
new canes. The drawback is that it loses a year's 
flowering, unless rich soil and a very favourable season 
push the plants along, and encourage them to form 
strong canes in a few weeks, in which case there may 
be late flowers. Other growers merely remove the 
dead or unripe portions of the canes, and leave the 
sound, mature parts. The question is partly one of 
soil. In light, shallow land it is certainly wise to prune 
back after planting, even if flowers are sacrificed for a 
year, as the plants will be the better for it in after years. 
In rich, cool, heavy soil it is not necessary. 

When the plants are well established annual pruning 
back, such as the dwarfs get, must be avoided, because 
the flowers come on short side shoots pushing from 
the canes made in a previous year. To get plenty of 
flowers we need a supply of strong, well-ripened canes. 
These may be one year or several years old, but it is 
to be noted that when the canes get very old and bark- 
bound they do not flower so well as younger ones, and 
a little thinning out becomes advisable. The advice 
often given to strictly avoid pruning Crimson Rambler 
should be qualified by this consideration. Carmine 
Pillar, the various ramblers, indeed all roses which 
make long canes, should be pruned occasionally, but 
it should principally consist of thinning out superfluous 
canes. There must never be a general cutting back. 
In the case of a very free-growing rose Hke Felicit6 
Perpetue, a great deal of thinning will be necessary, or 
it will become a thick tangle of shoots. 



128 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Strong cord will be needed to fasten the main canes 
to the pillars, as ordinary tying material is soon chafed 
through. The outer canes may be lightly looped to the 
central ones, and it is a good plan to shorten one or 
two of them to half their length, in order to insure a 
plentiful supply of flowers near the ground, and so get 
a column or pyramid of bloom from the base to the 
summit. The Penzance briers and Felicite Perp6tue 
respond well to this treatment, but it is not so suitable 
for Carmine Pillar, and other varieties, which make fewer, 
but stronger, canes. March is the month for pruning. 

Bedding Roses 

We want, for our principal beds, varieties which are 
vigorous, healthy growers, free bloomers, and of clear, 
decided colours. Never mind if the flowers are intrin- 
sically imperfect from the exhibitor's point of view. 
That is not the point at issue. There are surprisingly 
few which answer to our requirements. Most varieties 
are either quite weak growers, or else decided ramblers, 
and we do not want either. Our need is for sorts 
which form natural bushes, growing vigorously without 
throwing up long canes. Griiss an Teplitz is such a 
rose, perhaps the best of the class. It grows rapidly, 
soon forming a bush as large as a red currant, and 
flowering in bunches all through the summer. Marquise 
de Salisbury, Liberty, Madame Abel Chatenay, Augustine 
Guinoisseau, Carohne Testout, and Dr. Grill are others. 
All these are worthy of beds to themselves. They do 
not need hard pruning, except for the season of planting, 
when they may be cut to the ground. Afterwards the 
less shortening they have the better. 

If several beds are to be devoted to mixed varieties 



ROSE BEAUTY 129 

let the proportion of tea-scented and hybrid tea varieties 
be much greater than that of hybrid perpetuals, because 
in the main they are better garden plants. To begin 
with, the warm colours of the young wood in spring 
are almost as rich and grateful as those of paeonies. 
Then they flower more continuously than the "per- 
petuals," which are woefully misnamed. Perhaps they 
are more tender, but all dwarf roses are liable to be 
cut in very hard weather, and it is well to protect 
them by drawing earth up in winter, cutting away any 
injured top growth when the time for spring pruning 
comes. All weakly-growing roses are the better for 
hard pruning, in fact they are best cut to the ground 
every spring, leaving only short stumps with three or 
four buds on each. 

Wall Roses 

Good pillar roses are not necessarily good wall 
roses ; they are often bad ones. Generally speaking, 
roses which form long, upright canes, with very few 
strong laterals, bearing their flowers on short side 
stubs, are unsuitable for walls. The typical wall rose 
is that which readily pushes a fan of side branches, 
like dear old Gloire de Dijon, Wm. Allen Richardson, 
and Marechal Niel. Crimson Rambler is by no means 
a model wall rose, nor is Dorothy Perkins. Carmine 
Pillar is far from being suitable. On the whole, we 
have not advanced in wall as rapidly as we have in 
pillar roses. Bardou Job is one of the best of the newer 
sorts, but it is better for a low than a high wall, and 
this remark applies equally to Alister Stella Gray and 
Homere. Aimee Vibert and Bouquet d'Or are fair wall 
roses ; and these, too, belong to the old brigade. 

So far as habit is concerned, we have no better 

I 



I 



I30 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

wall rose than Mar6chal Niel ; but, unfortunately, it is 
not hardy enough for outdoor culture in most parts of 
Great Britain, and must therefore be grown under 
glass. Next to it comes Gloire de Dijon, and this old 
favourite must still be planted. Reine Marie Henriette 
makes a very good companion to it, although it does 
not push laterals quite so freely. The pruning of wall 
roses should mainly consist of cutting out old or 
crowded laterals, and fastening in young ones in their 
places. A limited number of strong flowering shoots, 
trained in clear of each other, will give better results 
than a crowded mass of weak ones. 

The comparative dryness and poverty of soil under 
walls militate against the success of roses, and in 
planting the first thing should be to thoroughly enrich 
the ground with manure, digging deeply. If the soil 
is very poor, decayed turves as well as manure ought 
to be provided. Soakings of water and liquid manure 
will also help. 

Selections of Roses 

For bedding For walls, 

♦Caroline Testout. Bennett's Seedling.] 

*Frau Karl Druschki. Gloire de Dijon. Vnorth. 

♦Griiss an Teplitz. Fdlicite Perpe'tue. j 

*La France. Longworth Rambler, "j , 

Laurette Messimy. Reine Marie Henriette. I , 

Liberty. Madame Alfred Car- j 
♦Madame Abel Chatenay. riere. J ^^^ ' 

♦Mrs. John Laing. Wm. Allen Richardson. \ 

Madame Pernet Ducher. Madame Alfred Carriere./^''^ ■ 
Marquise de Salisbury. 

Madame Ravary. For arches, pillars^ and 

Madame Jules Grolez. pergolas. 

* Choose for six. Ards Rover. 

Bennett's Seedling. 




Rose Fei.icite Perpetue on a house wall. 



ROSE BEAUTY 



MI 



Blush Rambler. 
*Carmine Pillar. 
*Crimson Rambler. 
♦Dorothy Perkins. 
*Felicite Perpetue. 
* Hiawatha. 

Longworth Rambler. 

Paradise Rambler. 
*Pink Rambler (Euphrosyne). 

Reine Olga de VViirtemburg. 

Tea Rambler. 

The Garland. 

"^ Choose for six. 



For banks. 
Wichuraiana. 



Alberic Barbier. 
Jersey Beauty. 



Penzance Briers. 

Lucy Bertram. 
Lucy Ashton. 
Meg Merrilies. 
Rose Bradwardine. 



General Garden Roses for Beds 



Anna Olivier. 

Antoine Rivoire. 

Caroline Testout. 

Fellenberg. 

Frau Karl Druschki. 

General Jacqueminot. 

G. Nabonnand. 

Grace Darling. 

Griiss an Teplitz. 

Gustave Regis. 

Hon. Edith Gifford. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 



La France. 

Madame Abel Chatenay. 
Madame Jules Grolez. 
Madame Ravary. 
Marie Van Houtte. 
Mrs. John Laing. 
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Craw- 
ford. 
The Dawson. 
Ulrich Brunner. 
Viscountess Folkestone. 
White Maman Cochet. 



If it is desired to fill considerable areas of ground 
inexpensively, the Japanese rose, rosa rugosa, may be 
planted. It forms immense bushes, and while its 
flowers are by no means wanting in beauty it is 
chiefly ornamental on account of its splendid hips. 
There are several varieties of this useful plant, and 
three of the best are Blanc Double de Coubert, 
Conrad F. Meyer, and Madame Georges Bruant. 



How TO Bud Roses 

Buy and plant briers in autumn. After a shower 
towards the end of July, or in the early part of August, 



132 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

make a T-shaped cut through the bark of the side 
shoots, close to the main stem, and raise the edges of 
the bark gently. Slip in a bud which has been sliced 
from a young growing shoot in the form of a shield 
about an inch long, and of which the pith has been 
removed, and tie in with worsted. The bud must be 
kept moist, or it will not grow. The beginner should 
always try and get a practical lesson in budding from 
an expert, as it is an operation very difticult to make 
clear in words. 

Our short rose chapter teaches us that there are 
roses for almost every garden purpose, and we see that 
to look upon the rose merely as a show-tent flower is 
to trifle with one of the most precious of floral gifts. 
In working towards the ideal of a beautiful garden, 
we want all the help that our best plants can give, 
and the rose stretches out both hands, laden with 
good things. It is a great and generous helper, and 
we must go half-way to meet it, with gratitude in our 
hearts that so much beauty is at our service. 



CHAPTER V 

PICTURE BEDS 

A FLOWER lover who has seen a group of rhododendrons 
in full beauty on the outskirts of a lawn does not need 
to be told that a " picture bed " is no mere flight of 
imagination, but a great reality. Brilliant flowers and 
green sward blend. The grassy approach to the bed, 
soft, smooth, and verdant, tunes the mind to sweet 
thoughts of garden charm and beauty ; and the flowers 
seem to gain in richness from the association. The one 
drawback to the rhododendron collection at Kew, so 
admirable in the quality of the varieties, and in the 
cultivation of the plants, is that it must be inspected 
from the close contiguity of a gravel walk. One v/ants 
to be constantly stepping back, in order to view the 
shrubs from a greater distance ; and sighs, though 
perhaps half unconsciously, for a broad intervening 
band of turf. 

Grass is matchless as a foil for flow^ers, and wherever 
sward is carried right to the edge of the soil colour 
effect is enhanced. A broad herbaceous border on the 
farther margin of a lawn, and partially encircling it, may 
give beautiful effects. In its absence it were better to 
sacrifice a few slices of turf for special beds than lose 
the rich charm of distant colour. 

It is somewhat singular that the lesson which the 
rhododendrons teach has not been carried further. 



134 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

These noble plants only do, often at considerable ex- 
penditure of labour and money, what can be done 
simply and inexpensively with less exacting plants. Has 
any reader tried a large lawn bed of sweet peas, for 
example ? Has he seen them arranged in clumps three 
or four feet through, and rising to a height of eight or 
nine feet — a light, fleecy, glittering medley of fluttering 
flowers, green foliage, and slender tendrils ? Conceive 
of such a bed. Think of the gay butterfly throng of 
flowers, from purest white to cream, buff, pink, rose, 
orange, scarlet, crimson, magenta, and purple — from 
pearl to French grey, blue of many shades, indigo and 
violet. 

In June the butterfly clans are gathering. They have 
heard the pibroch of the mating birds, and they have 
come, like the latter, on the wing. In July they are 
massed in all their brilliant panoply. The gatherer plies 
the scissors, but they smile upon the steel, and spring 
hydra-headed. The army of July melts away, but lo ! 
another grows almost in a night, and August is greeted 
by ranks as thick, as merry, as those of July. The roses 
wane, the dahlias rise, and in September the latter fight 
hard for garden dominion ; but new hosts of sweet peas 
come, and dispute the crown. Even in October they 
remain unsubdued, except by frost. 

In these five months an ever-varying, but ever-beauti- 
ful, picture has unfolded itself before the delighted eyes 
of the grower. He has seen new phases every day. 
Sometimes he has gone forth in the soft lights of the 
dawn, when the first shadows begin to creep about the 
garden, and the flowers sway in tender humility under 
the influence of the morning breezes. He has studied 
the plants in the fierce heat of noontide, when the 
blossoms have given back blow for blow to the hot sun- 



PICTURE BEDS 135 

rays. And he has wandered among them in the evening 
coohiess and stillness, when they have drooped heads 
that are weary from the long, hot battle of the day, but 
still are full of beauty and sweetness. And during all 
the long weeks of summer his vases have been full, and 
he has sent visitors away laden. 

The cost of it all, excluding labour, has been a few 
shillings — perhaps five shillings for manure, and five 
shillings for seed. 

There are other annuals besides sweet peas, less 
valuable, on the whole, but still rich with the possibilities 
of good service. And there are cheap perennials — snap- 
dragons, Indian pinks, Michaelmas daisies, chrysan- 
themums — which come with cheerful rapidity from seed, 
division, or cuttings ; plants that increase rapidly, and 
give fine blocks of colour. There are, too, tuberous 
begonias, ivy-leaved geraniums, and wichuraiana roses 
for ground covering. 

Picture beds must be full of the saving grace of 
informality. There has grown up round the very name 
" flower-bed " an atmosphere of stiffness, an association 
of crinolines. We think of them almost as we think of 
high stocks — even of stomachers, periwigs, and knee 
breeches. To have " borders " is to be modern, to have 
" beds " is to be ancient. Bedding out of the old kind 
is not dead. It is as lively as the memory of Beau 
Brummell and D'Orsay. It has its votaries, and it may 
be left to them, as the memory of Blair Athol and 
Hermit may be left to old sportsmen. For ourselves, 
we prefer a new order. 

We will have pillars in our beds, just as we have 
them in our borders, and we will cover them with roses, 
clematises, and other favourite flowers. Around them 
we will group special plants, such as delphiniums, Hlies, 



136 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

foxgloves, hollyhocks, evening primroses, torch Hlies, 
irises, and daffodils. We will have colour blocks of 
tulips, paeonies, gladioli, and other brilliant flowers, set 
in a dark background of swarthy or bronzy evergreens. 
In all this grouping, what we learn in the chapters on 
Colour and Climbers will help us considerably. We will 
have isolated standards of selected roses, with Dorothy 
Perkins and wichuraiana rubra as our principal sorts, 
owing to their freedom of flowering and grace of habit. 
These features will give unevenness of outline, looseness, 
informality. There will be abundance of colour, but no 
sense of " packing." 

By a liberal use of annuals, or plants which yield 
readily to treatment as such, we may have beautiful 
picture beds at an absurdly small cost, because the plants 
can be raised from seed, the hardy annuals out of doors 
in April, the others under glass in February or March, 
and planted in May after being hardened. 

In addition to sweet peas, there are many summer 
and autumn blooming plants which, in beauty and 
duration, are as valuable as many perennials. Bartonia 
aurea makes a bright mass of yellow. The clarkias, 
particularly the double variety of elegans, only need thin 
culture to shine brilliantly for several weeks. Godetias 
are as showy as pasonies, will stand any heat, and retain 
their freshness throughout the summer if given room to 
branch. The lightest annual asters, such as the ostrich 
plume, are both light and graceful. The salpiglossis 
has a beauty and character of its own. It possesses 
colours rarely seen in a garden plant — the hues seen on 
old metal worked by artificers like Benvenuto Cellini. 
It has exquisite shadings and venations — subdued, 
even sombre tints, suddenly breaking into sparkles of 
gold. 



PICTURE BEDS 137 

The newer species of tobacco plant {nicotiana), such 
as sylvestris and Sandercs, give very useful material. 
The former is a valuable plant, growing four to five feet 
high, and having large spikes of white flowers. The 
colours of SandercB vary, and some of these are un- 
pleasing, particularly the magenta, but there are bright 
rose forms which are well worth having. The habit of 
the plant is loose, and it flowers freely. It luxuriates 
in a clay soil. The older white tobacco, alba or affinis, 
is useful too. 

The nasturtiums {trcpcBolums) may be used with 
excellent effect. Varieties of tropcBolum lobbianunt, which 
are mostly deep orange or scarlet in colour, also the 
yellow polyphyllum, may be used to ramble over logs. 
There are, too, various American and continental 
hybrids available, which have pretty foliage as well as 
bright flowers. The ordinary " Tom Thumb " varieties 
are somewhat stiffer in habit, but they make useful 
" blobs " of colour, and are certainly not to be despised, 
especially in dry, poor soils. 

Poppies, as we have seen in a previous chapter, are 
capable of doing brilliant work. The singles, such as 
the Shirley, are very dazzling and varied, but they are 
short-lived flowers, and the large doubles are more 
lasting. 

The Rose Mallow {lavatera trimestris) and its white 
variety are somewhat straggling growers, but they are 
of undoubted value. The former is of a beautiful shade 
of rosy pink, blooms freely, and lasts until sharp frost 
comes. A clump of two or three well-grown plants will 
give a brilliant touch of colour. 

The Sunflowers {Jielianthns) include one or two good 
annuals, notably the cucumber-leaved icucumerifolius) and 
its varieties. The common species iannuus), as repre- 



138 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

seated by varieties such as Munstead Primrose and 
Primrose Dame, is worthy of attention. 

The annual chrysanthemums include two very bright 
forms of segetum called respectively Morning Star and 
Evening Star, both shades of yellow, bright, cheerful, 
and free-blooming. 

Kochia scoparia has pretty, pale green, fern-like 
foliage, which turns crimson in late autumn. 

The annual lupins include some good plants, notably 
lupinus Hartwegii, blue and white, and lupinus subcar- 
nosusy violet with white centre. These are vigorous and 
handsome, although they are not so well known as the 
common blue, rose, and white lupins. 

There is a good annual sage in the variety salvia 
horminum, Blue Beard, and if not equal to the better 
known species /rt:/^«j- in richness of colour, it is a distinct 
and useful plant. 

A patch of the scarlet flax, linum grandiflorum rubruin, 
gives a bright bit of colour, and we get pink and rose 
with low growth in saponaria calabrica and siUne pendula 
compacta. Marigolds are old favourites, and if the richly- 
coloured Africans are a little garish, they are undeniably 
bright. O i zinmas, the doubles are much superior to the 
singles, and there are few annuals more vivid. 

We get blue in plants of low stature from corn- 
flowers, phacelia campanularia, the dwarf convolvulus 
minor splendens, Love-in-a-mist {nigella damascena), nemo- 
phila insignis^ and lupinus ftanus, all of which can be 
sown out of doors. 

Ten-week stocks must not be forgotten ; the singles 
are worthless, but good doubles make beautiful clumps. 
One cannot, of course, rely on getting a majority of 
doubles, but in practice one does, as a rule, get seventy 
per cent, or even more, from good seedsmen. 



PICTURE BEDS 139 

There is a blue annual pea sold by seedsmen — a 
pretty plant about two feet high, of neat habit, and very 
free in bloom. It makes a capital plant for large beds. 
It is called by seedsmen Lord Anson's pea, but that is 
an error. It is lathy rus sativus. Lord Anson's pea is a 
rare plant. 

The varieties of cosmos bipinnatus, ranging in colour 
from white to purple, and growing three or four feet 
high, are serviceable. 

We can add perfume to our beds by supplement- 
ing the sweet peas and stocks with mignonette, night 
scented stock {inatJiiola bicornis). Sweet Sultans, and 
scabious. 

So far as our main purpose — Colour effect — is con- 
cerned, it must be sought in careful restraint. The 
plants must be in separate groups, each of which is 
made up of isolated units, not tangled masses. The 
great danger with all plants raised from seed sown out 
of doors is that they are grown too thickly ; this means 
weakly growth and a very brief period of flowering. If 
the various kinds are seeded thickly they are likely to 
grow into each other, and then, even for the short time 
that they remain in bloom, they do not produce the 
effect that is sought. Transplanted half-hardy annuals 
raised under glass, such as stocks, asters, phlox drum- 
inondii, and zinnias, are generally relatively better than 
the hardy class, because they are set out separately. 

Seedsmen give the heights and colours of the various 
plants they sell on the packets, together with advice as 
to sowing. Several of the best half-hardy kinds, such 
as asters, phloxes, tobaccos, petunias, and salpiglossis, 
will give profuse summer and autumn bloom if sown 
in unheated frames in April, pricked off from the seed- 
pans into boxes, and planted out in June. This gives 



I40 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the late tulips plenty of time. Every flower lover should 
have a few boxes of such beautiful things as these, also 
of snapdragons and verbenas (raised earlier, however), 
because then the places of bulbs which have gone out of 
bloom, likewise any gaps in beds and borders, can be 
immediately filled. The cost is very small. 



CHAPTER VI 

THE WATER LILY POOL 

The heat haze quivers above the water hly pool, and 
the gnats dance around it. The morning has been dull, 
but the sun has broken through, and now the sky is a 
sheet of blue flecked with white, like a carpet of forget- 
me-nots patched with rock cress. The rose sprays on 
the adjacent pillars swing idly to and fro, their shadows 
playing with the water. 

During the hours when the clouds hung in a lowering 
mass certain green and brown cones, of about the size 
of bantam's eggs, nestled amid the floating lily leaves, 
half submerged. As young growing birds, rising gradu- 
ally in the nest, like a moored vessel rising on the tide 
by the quay side, presently overhang the edges of their 
home, so these shapes, coming up from the cool deeps, 
partly showed their glistening bodies above the surface. 
But they lingered shyly, uncertain and fearful. They 
came from a dim underworld of cool slime, where there 
was good hiding, into a world of light, where all the 
shelter they could find was a thick, stiff, unyielding leaf, 
which offered no motherly protecting wing. And it was 
not a warm, cheerful world. The sky was overcast, the 
air was chill. There was a note of brooding on nature. 
It was no time or place for careful maids to come forth 
in summer attire. Lightning might flash, thunder roll, 
and great, rude, stinging, penetrating raindrops come 
pelting down. 



142 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

The buds (the cones were, of course, hly buds) hung 
within the water, and showed no signs of opening. The 
forces within them seemed to have become passive. A 
httle while previously something had formed a tiny stem 
with a small knot on the top of it, and the stem had 
lengthened until it was more than two feet long, and the 
knot had thickened until it was as large as a dove's egg, 
and so daylight was reached. But the force appeared to 
have expended itself, leaving the buds lumps of sterility. 
Anyway, they snugged against the leaves without a sign 
of life, although swayed into motion at times under the 
recurriv.g pressure of the lapping water. 

The sun set the machinery in motion again. When 
the orb fairly got through the clouds it burnt strongly. 
It began to suck up moisture from the pool, and make 
warm vapour of it. It drew the chill out of the water, 
and kft it almost tepid. The flaccid stems stiffened, the 
buds became virile. 

The cones did not open all at once. The first to 
venture showed a seam of pink — a thin, red line — so 
faint that it was hardly perceptible for a long time, but 
which presently became broader and brighter. Then 
another cone opened a shy, inquiring eye of blue ever so 
little, as though it dared do no more than peep. But 
the eye did not close ; it opened wider and wider, per- 
haps in wondering curiosity at the richer blue of the 
sky above it. Later still an adorable stain of yellow 
appeared on another bud's breast. Decidedly things 
were moving. 

By the middle of the afternoon the pool was trans- 
formed, and an alluring picture spread itself before the 
watcher's eyes. A star of azure loveliness had spread 
itself on the cool surface of the water, and smiled up at 
the bluer vault above. A brilliant rose flower, as rich, 



THE WATER LILY POOL 143 

yet delicate, in colouring as an orchid, expanded. Soft 
cushions of pearly white toyed with the ripples. The 
furtive, sombre buds, lurking dubiously on the threshold 
of a new world, had unfolded, at first by slow and 
cautious stages, alarmed at every passing cloud ; but 
later, doubts and fears forgotten, in eager haste. The 
pool was full of the exquisite blossoms of blue, primrose, 
crimson, and white. 

Diogenes, asked by Alexander what service the con- 
queror could render him, replied that he could stand 
out of the sunshine. Our water lily is impatient of any- 
thing that comes between itself and the sun. It does 
not like to be overhung by trees. And sunlight, so 
requisite for the development of the flowers, is needed 
to give that exquisite play of light and shade which is 
or ^ of the great charms of the water garden. Gently 
swayed by the wind, the slender green stems of the inter- 
mingling sedges curtsey to the broad, round lily leaves 
that lie fiat and still on the surface. Ripples of sunlight 
and shadow chase each other over the thick, succulent 
plaques. The water, when in gentle motion, laps round 
them with an almost imperceptible gurgle. When the 
ceaseless flicker of ever-varying light plays hide and 
seek along the water ; when, coyly peeping from among 
the rushes, the matchless fiowers of the lilies sparkle 
against the soft green stems ; when the swinging sprays 
of the neighbouring climbers throw their shadows over 
the water, the lily pool presents its strongest appeal. 
It becomes one of those features of the garden which 
have a constant and endearing influence. Thither, in 
the evening, one takes one's books. It becomes a garden 
ingle-nook. 

In large gardens the lily pool may expand into a 
pond or lake, and then we can not only provide flowers 



144 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

for the water, but for the margins also. What more 
glorious plant is there among the whole range of hardy 
plants than the Japanese iris, known to botanists as 
IcBvigata, and to many florists as Kcenipferi? To see this 
wonderful plant in all its beauty, visit the lakeside at 
Kew towards the end of rhododendron time, or go to 
the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley, 
near Ripley, Surrey. There is nothing among sub- 
aquatic plants to compare with it for size of bloom, 
vigour of growth, and richness of colour. When the 
plants find a position quite to their liking, the flowers 
are nearly as large as dinner plates. They have not the 
" standards " and " falls " (upright and drooping seg- 
ments) of the Flag irises, but are flat, or slightly re- 
curved. Some of them are blue, or blue with white 
centre ; others white, or white veined with violet ; others, 
again, combinations of blue, gold, and white. A colony 
of them glowing in the sunshine on a June morning, 
with the sparkle of water about them, is a sight to be 
remembered. 

The common Water Flag {iris pseudacorus)^ with its 
cheerful yellow flowers, is a waterside plant which must 
not be despised. It has not the stately, painted beauty 
of the Japanese, but it is bright and gay. The Marsh 
Marigold {caltha palustris), the Grass of Parnassus {par- 
nassia palustris), the Reed Mace {typha latifolia), the 
Japanese Primrose {primula j'aponica), with its whorls 
of crimson flowers, the Marsh Trefoil or Bog Bean 
{menyanthes trifoliata), the Water Hawthorn [aponogeton 
distachyon), the Flowering Rush {butonius umhellatus), 
the Arrow Head {sagittarid), and the Water Violet 
{hotlonia palustris), not suitable for deep water, are all 
charming waterside plants. 

What, however, of our water lilies proper ? for we 



THE WATER LILY POOL 145 

are putting the dessert before the entrees. There is 
certainly nothing among the sub-aquatics, except it be 
the Japanese iris, that can vie with the nymphaea in 
interest and beauty. True, it opens shyly, as we have 
seen ; true, it closes at sunset ; but in its hour it is 
matchless. It was named, of course, from the nymphcc, 
the female deities of ancient Greek mythology. The 
sea-nymphs were nereides, the river-nymphs naiades, 
but our beautiful aquatics know other divisions, such 
as hardy and tender, species, hybrids, and varieties. 
There is one British nymphaea — alba. It is a beauti- 
ful plant, and will grow in deep water, which is not 
good for many of the exotic kinds, but it is scentless. 
There are several varieties of it, and one — candidissima 
— is much superior to the parent. 

The scented water lily {jiymphcea odorata), white, 
tinted with red, is a glorious aquatic. There is a 
small form of it, named minor, which is suitable for 
tubs. Then there is the pretty, white, June-flowering 
species pygiima, or tetragona, of which there is an 
exquisite yellow variety called helveola. Tuberosa is a 
July bloomer, white ; and it has yellow and rose 
varieties, as well as a double. Both odorata and 
pygmaea helveola are extensively grown, but the hardy 
hybrids are the most popular. They are a large and 
beautiful band. Two of the sections are associated 
with the names of famous raisers — Laydeker and 
Latour - Marliac — the latter being called viarliacea. 
Ellisiana, red ; James Brydon, rosy red ; Laydekeri 
fulgens, amaranth ; marliacea carnea, pink ; marliacea 
chromatella, yellow ; odorata sulphurea, yellow ; and 
William Doogue, red, are all charming hardy water 
lilies, and, with odorata, will make a splendid selection. 

These hybrids do not need — in fact are not suited 

K 



146 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

for — deep water. The ponds where the finest private 
collections are grown are shallow, and perhaps the 
average depth of water is not more than two and a 
half feet. This will be a relief to the pool-maker, who 
has to make a beginning from a plain stretch of earth, 
and is not over-comfortable about the water supply. It 
teaches him that the cost of excavating is likely to be 
much less than he had expected, and, consequently, 
that he will have a little more money to spare for plants. 
Let us consider a few practical questions. 

First, what shall be the size of our pool ? Perhaps 
the flower lover will try and decide how many plants 
he would like, and then allow each one square yard. 
Thus, if he proposes to grow a collection of a dozen, 
he must have a pool with an area of a dozen square 
yards. That is one point settled. 

Secondly, what shall be the depth of the pit ? Four 
feet will do nicely. It will allow a few inches for 
puddling, a few inches for soil, and still nearly three 
feet for the plants. The sides should slope at an angle 
of about 30°. 

Thirdly, how shall we make the pool water-tight ? 
We may proceed by puddling — that is, plastering with 
wet clay. The latter must be pure, and such as will 
beat into a plastic mass when wet. To make a thorough 
" dough " of it, chop it up into small pieces with a sharp 
spade, and then, while it is moist, beat it well and spread 
it in about six inches thick. Afterwards let the heaviest 
workman go in barefooted and tread it evenly down. 
Six inches in depth of good turfy loam for planting in 
may finish this part of the work. For the sides, puddle 
similarly, beginning at the bottom, and working upwards. 
As the burly workman cannot operate effectually on the 
sides with his bare feet, let him beat the clay well down 



THE WATER LILY POOL 147 

with a spade. Carry the clay a few inches above the 
water Hne. 

A lining of concrete is not very expensive, and may 
well be resorted to in districts where clay is scarce, or 
labour for applying it is not available. A local builder 
will always give an estimate for making and concreting 
a pool, and it should include the removal of the ex- 
cavated soil to the point where it is to be finally 
deposited, so that the whole job may be finished off. 
A couple of handy navvies, such as a builder will 
employ, will do the work of excavating and concret- 
ing more expeditiously than ordinary garden hands. 

Fourthly, where shall we get our water supply ? If 
the pool is made at the lower part of the garden, the 
surface water can be taken into it by means of drains. 
There are thousands of gardens in which the surface 
water all runs to waste in ditches. In other cases roof 
water is taken by a pipe to the earth, and there allowed 
to soak away. By opening a trench and laying in an 
earthenware drain-pipe, this water is trapped, and may 
be conveyed wherever it is wanted. If using roof 
water, it will be economical to have the pool fairly 
near the house, thus saving labour in trench-cutting 
and expense in piping. When once the pool is filled 
with water the case is won, because what slight wastage 
there is is made up for by every rainfall. If the pool 
is small in proportion to the bulk of water available, it 
v^'ill be well to provide for an overflow. 

Fifthly, when and how shall we plant ? Spring is 
the best period for planting water lilies — say, from 
mid-April to the end of May. If loam has been laid 
in the bottom, the roots can be planted in that, and a 
few small pieces of rock can be placed round each 
clump to help to keep it in position. The stones will 



148 THE PERFFXT GARDEN 

form pockets, as it were. Smaller plants can be estab- 
lished on the sides of the pool if a few stones are 
cemented to the sides, forming saucers. When plant- 
ing in deep water, one of two devices may be resorted 
to. The first is to bind the roots of each water lily 
round with pieces of turf, form a loop in the cord, and 
then lower the mass to the bottom by passing the end 
of a long pole through the loop ; attach a heavy stone, 
if necessary, to cause the mass to sink. The second 
plan is to place each water lily, with soil, in an old 
basket and lower that to the bottom. 

If means permit of the extension of the pool into a 
pond, the circular form may be departed from. We 
may have an irregular oval with a waved edge, perhaps 
a central island or two, and narrowed extremities, over 
which a rustic bridge may be carried. On broad bands 
of turf around the pond clumps of bamboos, giant palm- 
leaved rhubarb [rheum palinatum\ and other handsome 
foliage plants can be formed. With Japanese irises on 
the margin, a beautiful addition will be made to the 
garden. 

The grower's success may be such that in the course 
of a few years the pool becomes crowded through the 
luxuriant growth of the plants. Then there comes a 
slimy, splashy, but (especially for the younger genera- 
tion) most delightful task of overhauling. The water 
is drawn off, and the clumps are removed. The latter 
are divided, one or two crowns being retained with 
each portion ; and then, after an inspection and possible 
rearrangement of the stones, replanting is done. 

Should the admirer of water lilies visit a large show, 
he will very Ukely see that an ingenious florist has made 
a small, narrow tank, and established some water lilies 
in it, just by way of showing that not only a lake, but 



THE WATER LILY POOL 149 

even a little round pool, can be dispensed with. Cer- 
tainly water lilies can be grown in tanks. If a person 
cares to form a brick pit, and line it with cement to 
make it watertight, he can grow nymphseas in it with 
very little trouble. And he can grow some of the 
tender kinds, such as gigantea, lotus devoniensis, stel- 
lata, and Wm. Stone, if he cares to go to the expense 
of covering his tank with glass and running a hot-water 
pipe round it — transforming it into what gardeners term 
a heated pit. 

And there is an even simpler way of growing lilies — 
it is to cultivate them in tubs. In an old garden the 
writer once formed a little dell. In the centre he sank 
paraffin-oil casks which had been sawn in halves, and 
charred with lit shavings. Water lilies were planted 
in the tubs, and moisture-loving plants placed around 
them. The banks were planted with forget-me-nots, 
anemones, grape hyacinths, tulips, Spanish irises, daffo- 
dils, and other bright flowers. The dell was a very 
cheerful spot, especially in spring and early summer. 

When lilies are grown in tubs, it will be necessary 
to replenish the water supply frequently in hot, summer 
weather. And it will be wise to throw some loose litter 
over them during sharp frosts, for the roots will not 
be far from the surface, and would certainly not be 
improved by being frozen hard. 

The smallest garden, then, may have its water- 
nymphs. They will laugh in the summer sunshine, 
and make glad the grower's heart. 



CHAPTER VII 

BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS AND CREEPERS 

The very word "climber" conjures up alluring pictures 
of garden charm. It may be midwinter when we read 
or write of it, but there comes before us fair visions of 
summer beauty — roses tossing their flower-laden shoots 
in the breeze, clematises clothing gateways, honeysuckles 
rambling over hedges, wistarias swinging their great 
mauve clusters about the windows. We see arches and 
pillars clad in a golden, green, and crimson garment of 
foliage and bloom. Pergolas stretch their long, cool, 
perfumed lengths before us. Sweetest thought of all, 
the climbers bring the garden nearer to the home. 
There may be a certain sense of detachment with some 
classes of plants ; they are a little distant, a little stif^". 
We feel that although we know them they are hardly 
a part of ourselves. The climbers and creepers fling 
their tendrils all about us, they find crevices in our 
natures, and take intimate possession of us. They throw- 
out soft, tender twiners that coil themselves impercep- 
tibly around our hearts. 

We clothe the walls of our houses with climbers and 
creepers, and so bring the plants very near to ourselves. 
They seem to form a part of our home life. They tap at 
our windows of a morning, reminding us that the birds 
are awake and in full song, and that we are losing pre- 
cious moments of life. They soothe us with delicious 
odours in the cool evening hours. 



BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS, ETC. 151 

On the grey, lichen-stained stones of old pillars the 
blue clematis gives its most beautiful effects. Tall 
columns of foxglove or delphinium may rise near, with 
evening primroses, white lilies, and torch lilies at their 
feet. Simple colour groups like these make exquisite 
garden pictures. Grey-brown larch pillars in the mixed 
border, splashed over with the brilliant flowers of Car- 
mine Pillar and other roses, form backgrounds for lofty 
spires of hollyhock, around which are grouped pjeonies, 
irises, garden chrysanthemums, or other selected flowers. 
The modern flower-garden must be rich in flower 
studies in which climbers and creepers play a prominent 
part. We must not think of them as adjuncts, but as 
integral parts. They must come into our earliest schemes, 
and not be introduced as mere afterthoughts. Whatever 
its plan may be, a garden can never appear formal if 
rambling plants are employed freely on stumps, pillars, 
arches, and pergolas. They rise triumphant over uni- 
formity, and give that air of brightness and grace which 
adds so greatly to the charm of a garden. 

Queen of this, as of all other classes of garden flowers, 
the rose is given a chapter to herself. Carmine Pillar, 
Longworth Rambler, Hiawatha, the Blush, White, 
Yellow, Pink, and Crimson Ramblers, Bardou Job, the 
Penzance Briers, and all the rest of the sweet sisterhood 
of rosedom, there receive the attention which they so 
well deserve. 

The clematis may perhaps come next. Vigorous in 
growth, with large flowers brilliantly painted, it is a 
glorious plant. The little white Mountain clematis 
{montana) is very pretty for a house wall, and does not 
object to an easterly aspect ; it is beautiful, too, for 
rambling over a dead tree, which it will clothe in a 
sheet of snowy blossom in June. Growing quickly from 



152 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

cuttings, and thriving on heavy soil, it is a most useful 
plant. The Traveller's Joy or Old Man's Beard {yitalbd) 
is a wilding, and one of the most attractive when, in 
late September, its white, fluffy masses coat the thorns 
and sloes in the hedgerows. 

It is among the florists' clematises, however, that we 
find the finest material. There we find Jackman's and 
other lovely forms. Botanists throw them into groups, 
as (i) coccinea, (2) florida, (3) Jackmanii, (4) lanuginosa, 
(5) patens, (6) viticella. For garden purposes grouping 
is only important as far as it affects pruning, and (omit- 
ting the coccinea class as the least important) we will 
throw all our varieties into two sets — (i) those which 
require to be pruned hard every year, and (2) those 
which only need thinning out when crowded, or trimmed 
when straggly. 

Clematises which need hard pruning. 

Jackmanii, violet blue. Lady Bovill, pale blue, 

Madame Edouard Andre, red. 

Clematises which only need thinning or trimming. 

Duchess of Edinburgh, double Lord Londesborough, mauve. 

white. Miss Bateman, white. 

Fair Rosamond, blush. The Queen, lavender. 
Lady Londesborough, silver. 

Planters can pick from these according to the colours 
which they like best, but they ought to try and find room 
for Jackmanii, Madame Edouard Andr6, and the Queen. 

It is common for Jackmanii lovers to complain that 
they cannot get the plant to start. It dies off, they 
say, instead of growing. Nine times out of ten this is 
because they plant late in spring in a hot, dry position, 



I BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS, ETC 153 

and do not cut back. It ought to be planted by the 
end of March, in deeply-trenched, manured soil, and 
directly it is put in it ought to be cut close to the 
ground. A plant rarely fails when treated in this appar- 
ently barbarous way. 

Honeysuckles are less brilliant than clematises, and 
in the main are sober, inconspicuous flowers ; but they 
are rightly loved for their delicious perfume, and we 
must not forget the bright fruits of some. Their 
botanical names are a little trying. Thus, our deli- 
cious old wilding the woodbine is lonicera periclyniemun, 
and two of the best honeysuckles that we have are 
respectively lonicera japonica aureo- reticulata and lonicera 
japonica flexuosa. The former is the pretty variety with 
golden-netted leaves, and the latter (one of the sweetest 
and best) is the plant listed by the nurseryman as 
flexuosa or brachypoda. The scarlet trumpet honeysuckle 
of the florists is lonicera senipervirens. The sweet white 
winter honeysuckle is lonicera fragrantissima. We can 
only tolerate such names as these when we realise that 
they are necessary for purposes of distinction. Of 
course, we can write to our nurseryman and order " a 
honeysuckle" — just that and no more; but the odds 
are that we shall not get out of it so easily, for he will 
very likely write back, and, hurling fearful names at 
us, "respectfully beg to ask" which particular one we 
want. It is sad that botanists' names cannot be evaded 
in gardening, but it really seems impossible. 

The Ivy {hedera helix oi botanists) has many varieties, 
some with large leaves, others with small ; some plain, 
others variegated. All these have distinctive names. 
The Irish Ivy, with its large, green, five-lobed leaves, 
is canariensis. The one with immense, heart-shaped 
leaves is rcegneriana. A fine variety, which is bronzy 



154 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

in summer and purple in winter, is donerailensis. A 
pretty variety, which has green leaves margined with 
white, is rhonibea, and another, with silvery edges, is 
variegata. These are a few of the best for walls. The 
Tree ivies are shrubby in habit. 

The jasmine is a pretty, free-fiowering, fragrant 
climber. The common species, with its sweet, white 
flowers, is called occidentale by botanists ; there is a form 
of it with yellow leaves. The yellow winter jasmine, 
which blooms while leafless in mild spells throughout 
the winter, is also well known. 

The trop<Boliims include at least one very remarkable 
plant in the Flame Nasturtium, speciosum, which resi- 
dents of, and visitors to, Scotland admire so much. 
This extraordinary plant sheets cottage walls with 
scarlet. It likes coolness and shade. It generally fails 
in South Britain, but it thrives at Gravetye, in Sussex, 
rambling over hollies. It also succeeds, among other 
places, in the garden of Mr. J. Edward Elgar, near 
Wingham, in South-east Kent, where it grows like a 
weed. The botanists have tried sev'eral names for the 
Canary Creeper, such as aduncum, canariense, and pere- 
grinuvi ; it is to be hoped that they are now satisfied. 
The plant is best raised from seed in spring like an 
ordinary hardy annual. The common climbing nas- 
turtium is also a tropcBoluni to botanists, and its name 
is inajus. 

The Virginian Creeper enjoys the same distinction 
as the Canary Creeper. Its former botanical name of 
ampelopsis hederacea has been changed to vitis quinquce- 
folia, but gardeners should refuse it under any name, 
as, although it colours brightly in autumn, it is a coarse 
grower. Veitch's kind, once called ampelopsis veitchiiy 
and now vitis inconstans, is in every way better, being 



BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS, ETC 155 

neater, brighter, and a close self-clinger. Another valu- 
able vine is coignetice, which has very large leaves that 
colour well in autumn. 

Wistaria (oftener spelt wisteria) sinensis is a great 
favourite, and would probably be planted much more 
frequently than it is now if it were not so painfully slow 
in getting to work. A veritable Fabius Cunctator of a 
plant ! When, after a period of several years, it has 
attained to something like recognisable size it is very 
beautiful. It produces its finest bunches when the side 
shoots are cut close in every year, just as gardeners 
prune grape vines. It likes a sandy, loamy soil. Slow 
in any ground, it becomes tortoise-like in clay. There 
are several varieties, with different coloured flowers. 

The foregoing are a few of the principal climbers, 
but there are other attractive plants which deserve 
mention. Berberidopsis corallina has beautiful crimson 
flowers, borne on the ends of the branches. It is not 
thoroughly hardy, and should have a warm south wall. 
The calystegiasy which are allied to the convolvuluses, are 
pretty trailers, but so addicted to running at the root 
that they become troublesome weeds unless kept under 
control. Eccreiiwcarpus scaber is a bright orange-coloured 
rambler which is best raised from seed like a tomato, 
and planted out in May or June. Lathynis latifolius 
(or sylvestris platyphyllus) is the well-known Everlasting 
Pea. The white variety is a beautiful rambler, and 
luxuriates in clay. In dry, hot soils it does not grow 
very freely. The maurandias are pretty purplish-violet 
flowers, easily raised from seed. Lophospermum scandens 
is now called inaurandia scandens. Cobcea scandens, with 
its quaint purple flowers, may also be raised from seed 
like an annual. 

One of the quaintest, and at the same time one of 



156 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the most rapid-growing, of climbers is periploca grcEca^ 
which has small, brownish-green flowers. It will grow in 
almost any soil, and cover a trellis or arbour in double- 
quick time. The ornamental gourds are sometimes used 
for covering pergolas. They are raised from seed like 
vegetable marrows, and planted out in June. 

The great majority of the climbers or creepers will 
thrive in ordinary garden soil provided it is broken up 
deeply, and well manured. In most cases early spring 
is the best time to plant, because they have time to make 
roots, and get a good hold of the soil before the hot 
weather comes. Failures with creepers planted against 
walls are comparatively common, because the positions 
are generally hot and dry. The soil close under a wall is 
often parched and poor. If it is broken up and manured 
the chances of success will be greater, and they will be 
further enhanced if a few decayed turves can be chopped 
up and mixed with the soil. Creepers that are planted 
late out of pots ought to be shaded until they are estab- 
lished, and the tops should be well syringed every day. 

It may be well to point out that the word " climbers " 
is used in a general sense. Many plants that are so 
termed are not true climbers. They have not tendrils 
like peas, nor do they exude an adhesive substance like 
ampelopsis veitchii, nor can they support themselves b}' 
twining, like hops and scarlet runners. They need fasten- 
ing to their supports. 

Where shall we look for material for our poles, pillars, 
pergolas, and arches ? Not, in the first place, to the 
ironmonger. We may have to come to him in the end, 
but let us try a little nearer nature to begin with. Oak 
and larch poles are the best, the former for duration, the 
latter for straightness and bark-colour. Of course the 
ironmonger can truthfully argue that his wares are 



BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS, ETC. 157 

lasting, which timber is not. Still, we can lengthen the 
period of usefulness of our poles by treating that portion 
which is covered with soil. The simplest, and perhaps the 
best, method is thorough charring. Another plan is to 
paint with tar, and dust it with sand while wet. A third 
is to pickle in creosote. The last is a splendid preserva- 
tive, but plants suffer from contact with it, and neither 
roots nor stems should be brought too close. 

Cheap timber, suitable for garden purposes, can often 
be bought at autumn sales in forest districts. If pur- 
chased at timber merchants it will be dearer, but against 
this may be set convenience and saving of time. 

Arches and pergolas should not be less than six feet 
high at the lowest part. A pergola is really a series of 
arches connected by cross pieoes, both at the top and 
sides. The uprights should be seven feet apart, with the 
base buried not less than thirty inches. They ought to 
be at least six inches thick at the base. This makes for 
strength and rigidity, both of which are desirable. The 
cross and top pieces may be much lighter. 

The plants ought to be gone over at least once a year. 
In the case of perennial plants periodical thinning out 
is necessary, and those which encroach on each other 
should be cut back. The pruner should aim at a happy 
medium between graceful laxity and crowding. The 
shoots need not be trained as systematically as a peach 
tree. With reasonable freedom the plants will give that 
light, graceful, informal effect which is so appropriate to 
the circumstances. We want our climbers to enjoy the 
sweets of liberty to as great an extent as it is good for 
ourselves — that is, liberty granted under the safeguard of 
beneficent laws. 



CHAPTER VIII 

TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 

In the chapter on Colour we saw how certain trees and 
shrubs could be utilised for backgrounds in mixed 
borders, their foliage serving as a foil to flowers. But 
many are beautiful in themselves, and fully worthy of 
cultivation for their own sakes. 

The larger timber trees, such as oak, birch, ash, syca- 
more, aspen, chestnut, lime, elm, plane, alder, beech, and 
poplar are planted in extensive private gardens for shade, 
shelter, and general eiTect. Larch, spruce, and pines are 
planted for shelter and timber. Smaller trees, such as 
elder, thorn, variegated maple, mountain ash, acacia, 
almond, magnolia, crabs, mock orange, laburnum, catalpa, 
and holly, also conifers like the silver firs, monkey puzzle, 
cedars, cypresses, maidenhair tree, junipers, yews, and 
arbor vitae, are mainly used for ornament. 

We get in the various kinds beauty of leaf, bark, or 
bloom, and, by a judicious choice, we can have something 
worthy of admiration for the greater part of the year. 

Shrubs are even more valuable than trees for most 
gardens, because of their smaller size, and their greater 
variety of leaf and flower beauty. 

So far as colour is concerned, we get the most out 
of shrub bloom in spring and early summer, and out of 
tree foliage in autumn ; but we can make a choice that 
will give us brightness at nearly all seasons of the year. 

Nor must we forget fruits. 

153 




'J 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 159 

Early Tree and Shrub Bloom 

Winter Flowers. — A few good shrubs are in bloom 
before the spring quarter opens, and one or two give 
flowers in mild spells almost throughout the winter. 

The most familiar example of this small but useful 
class is the winter jasmine {Jasminuvi midijlorian), which 
bears yellow flowers on leafless stems. It is a common 
plant, but we need hardly refuse to grow it if we have no 
better ground of objection than that it is often seen on 
porches in town yards. 

The Golden Bell {forsyihia suspensa) is a still more 
valuable thing, because it will grow without support, and 
clothe itself in sprays of bright clear yellow. 

The winter honeysuckle {lonicera fragantissiina) is 
precious as a winter flower for walls, although it is not 
brilliant. 

The Mezereon {daphne mezereum) is a delicious little 
shrub, pretty without being showy, and delightfully 
perfumed. 

Perhaps the queen of winter shrubdom is the star 
magnolia {magnolia stellata), which produces large, pure 
white flowers on stark bare stems. A nice bush of it is 
an exquisite object. The larger species [grandiflora) is 
often in flower in winter too. 

Of trees proper the almond is generally the first to 
bloom, and it is closely followed by the cherries. Maule's 
quince {cydonia Maulei) is sometimes in bloom at mid 
March, and so is Thunberg's white spir^ea [Thunbergi). 

Spring Beauty of Tree and Shrub 

Spring not only comes with a wealth of wild blossom, 
starring the woods, sheeting the pastures, and scenting 



i6o THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the hedgerows, but with a great outburst of beauty in 
tree and shrub. There is nothing more exquisitely 
tender of hue than the green of young larch. The 
long gay gonfalons of broom, the rosy rods of flowering 
currants, the great shining urns of rhododendrons, the 
glittering racemes of laburnums, the snowy sheets of 
deutzias and spiraeas, the hot cushions of the crimson 
thorns, combine in a brilliant cavalcade of colour. The 
pageant of spring unfolds in a glowing succession of 
exquisite pictures. Opening bud vies with unrolling 
leaf. Garden boundaries, mixed borders, lawn skirtings, 
entrances, all give us fair scenes of green and silver, 
purple and gold. 

Rhododendrons. — In the wild, moist valleys of the 
Cornish Riviera rhododendrons are in bloom in March, 
and at their best in April. In the deep, cool peats they 
form great trees, laden with giant trusses. At Kew, at 
Bagshot, at Woking, and at Hythe it is from mid-May 
to mid-June that they give us their richest stores of 
beauty. Londoners may see a glorious picture of 
rhododendron colour at the Royal Botanic Society's 
Gardens in Regent's Park in June; and it may send 
them on to Kew, where also these noble shrubs form 
magnificent breaks. While it is true that the plants 
love peat they will thrive in loam. They loathe chalk 
in any form, and it is waste of money to plant them 
on thin limestone soils, but a special station can always 
be made for a group if desired, and the most economical 
way of doing it is to buy turves as lifted, store them 
for a few months to decay, and then chop them up 
roughly and mix with leaf mould for the bed. There 
is a peculiarity about rhododendrons which planters 
should learn, and it is that the shoots for the following 
year start as buds at the base of the flower-trusses. 




i o 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY i6i 

While, therefore, decaying flowers should be removed, 
they should not be broken off low down, but squeezed 
from their seat with finger and thumb in such a way 
that the growing buds are not dislodged. A few varieties 
stand out from many. The finest of all is the glorious 
Pink Pearl, a huge flower of pale shimmering pink. 
Michael Waterer is about the best bright red, John 
Waterer the best crimson, and Mrs. John Glutton the 
best white. Gomer Waterer and the Queen are delicious 
blush-coloured varieties. Sappho, white with magenta 
blotches, is a splendid flower, and Old Port an almost 
equally good purple. Princess of Wales, rose with paler 
centre, is a delightful variety, indeed it is difficult to 
name all that are worth growing without making a list 
too long for most gardens. 

Azaleas, which are Hnked with rhododendrons botani- 
cally, thrive under the same conditions, and also give us 
brilliant colouring. But the dominant shades are quite 
different. They are orange, saffron, salmon, and gold. 
They also give us white, cream, pink, lilac, and red. 
What are termed Ghent and MoHis azaleas are the 
best classes to choose. The Mollis azaleas follow up 
their spring bloom, in itself a sufficient claim on our 
attention, by beautiful leaf tints in autumn. Anthony 
Koster is the finest variety, but Alphonse Lavallee and 
M. Arthur de Warelles are also good. 

Flowering Currants are cheap and valuable shrubs, 
breaking very early into bloom, and lasting well. They 
are worthy occupants of shrub borders. The best 
known is ribes sangtdneum, which has rose-coloured 
flowers ; there are deep red and white varieties of it. 
The yellow Buffalo currant {ribes aureum), is also a 
cheap, bright, and useful plant. 

Bush Honeysuckles. — 'The botanist used to call the 

L 



i62 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

beautiful bush honeysuckle Weigela : he nows calls it 
diervilla. It is ungainly and ugly when leafless in 
winter, and should therefore be masked, if possible, 
with something else ; but it is remarkably beautiful 
when in bloom, for it flowers in great profusion, and 
the colours are very pleasing. The variety Eva Rathke, 
with deep red flowers, is generally considered to be the 
best, but Abel Carriere and amabile are also beautiful. 
Undeniably fond of a deep, well-manured, loamy soil, 
they will yet thrive in clay ; and some of the best plants 
the writer knows are growing in a semi-wild state on the 
top of a sandbank honeycombed with rabbit-holes. 

Mock Oranges. — Amongst the later spring shrubs 
the Mock Orange {philadelphus coronarius), often, but 
wrongly, called syringa, is a favourite. The creamy 
flowers are not individually attractive, but they are 
borne abundantly, and they are very sweet. There is 
a larger kind called grandijiorus, which may be given 
preference over coronarius. A very good mock orange, 
more suitable for small borders than the foregoing, is 
called Lemoinei erectus. 

Brooms. — For light sandy and heathy land we can get 
no better shrubs than the brooms. Cornishmen, whose 
moors are covered for months with a golden sheet of 
gorse, tell you that when gorse is out of bloom kissing 
is out of fashion — a very pleasing way of suggesting that 
it is generally in flower. The common yellow European 
broom is called Cytisus scoparius by botanists. There 
are two varieties of it which gardeners favour : these are 
the Andre Broom {Andreamis), yellow and brown, and 
the Moonlight Broom {sulphureus or sulphur-coloured). 
The former is a very rich and striking plant. 

Barberries are in the front rank of flowering shrubs, 
and several of the best are evergreen. The invaluable 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 163 

species Darwinii is handsome both in foHage and bloom, 
the orange flowers and leaves forming a rich harmony. 
Stenophylla is quite as beautiful in blossom, though not 
in foliage. It grows with greater vigour than the 
Darwin barberry, and produces long, slender branches 
covered with flowers. Aquifolium is the well-known 
barberry (often grown under the name of mahonia 
aquifolia) which is used for shady spots, and for banks. 
It has shiny, dark green leaves, and bears yellow flowers 
in spring. It is a cheap and useful plant, although it 
lacks the distinctive beauty of the two barberries already 
mentioned. Darwin's is not only beautiful in itself, and 
quite strong enough to form a complete bed or group, 
but serves as an excellent foil for other shrubs. 

The thorns {cratcEgus) are represented in almost every 
rural district by the well-known " May," which is the 
Quick or White Thorn [cratcEgus oxyacantha). There 
are several fine garden varieties. One of the best of 
these is known as Paul's Double Scarlet. There are 
Double Pink and Double White varieties, as well as 
a Single Scarlet, which are stocked by nurserymen. 
They are among the best of small trees, and are suitable 
for all classes of garden. The Glastonbury Thorn is 
an early bloomer, and is often in flower in winter. 
Interesting legends have grown up round it; as, that 
it originated from the staff of Joseph of Arimathea. 
Garden lovers will find the prosaic, legendless Paul's 
Double Scarlet much more to their purpose. 

Almonds, apples ^ cherries, peaches, and plums. — These 
valuable fruits include a great many ornamental plants. 
The almond {prunus amygdaliis) has already been re- 
ferred to briefly. There are several varieties of it. The 
cherry {prunus cerasus) is both early and pretty. The 
double white form of the Gean [avium flore plend) is a 



i64 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

beautiful tree, and so is Waterer's Bird Cherry {prunus 
padus variety). The peach {prunus persica) is now 
represented by several lovely varieties, such as Double 
Scarlet, Pink, and White. The branches are thickly 
studded with large, rosette-like flowers. The myrobalan, 
or cherry plum (^prunus cerasifera), is a free bloomer. A 
variety of this with dark leaves, known to botanists as 
atropurpurea^ and to nurserymen as prunus pissardii, is 
in great demand as a foliage tree. The sloe or black- 
thorn {prunus spinosd), is not generally considered good 
enough for a garden plant. It is, of course, common in 
the hedgerows. There is a double variety {flore pleno) 
which is worth inclusion. Many of the most useful 
fruiting varieties of apples and pears are beautiful 
ornamental trees, and the fact that they bear valuable 
fruit does not detract in the least from their desirability 
for spring blossom beauty. They belong botanically to 
the genus pyrus, and there are two kinds listed by 
nurserymen under that name — floribunda, with rosy 
white flowers in great abundance ; and scheideckeri, 
pink, which are among the most beautiful hardy trees 
we have. The crabs are pretty from their flowers, and 
later in the year from their fruits. One of the best is 
the variety called John Downie. 

Laburnums are common enough, but we never grow 
tired of them, and when mixed with lilacs, thorns, and 
other small trees which bloom late in spring, they do 
good duty. They will thrive almost anywhere, and a 
sufficient proof of their accommodating nature is their 
success on railway embankments. The Scotch {labur- 
num alpinuni) is better than the common, and costs 
little or no more. An interesting member of the genus 
is the purple laburnum {adami), which will often bear 
separate racemes of yellow and purple on the same 




Magnolia conspicua as a pot plant. 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 165 

plant. It originated as a graft hybrid between laburnum 
alpiiium and cytisus purpureus in a French nursery. 

Lilacs would be indispensable if we only had the 
common species {syringa vulgaris), for its abundant 
bunches of piquantly scented flowers make it a great 
favourite, and it will grow in most places; but there 
are several varieties of it, such as Charles I., Marie 
Legraye, Alphonse Lavall6e, and Michael Buchner, 
which are more beautiful than their parent. Of the 
four named, the first two are single and the others 
double. 

Magnolias are among the most beautiful of our spring 
shrubs and trees, with their huge, mainly white, flowers. 
They are hardy, but they ought to have shelter from 
cold quarters, or a sharp frost may spoil the blooms. 
The star magnolia has already been mentioned as a 
winter bloomer. The Yulan [conspicua) is a beautiful 
white species, flowering early in spring, and rarely 
growing to a great size, consequently quite suitable for 
small borders. The Bull Bay {grandijlora) and the 
Soulange {sotilangeana) are larger. The former is 
white, the latter white flushed with deep rose. The 
magnolias do pretty well in most soils, but a barrow- 
load of chopped turves and leaf-mould used for each 
plant when it is put in will do them a great deal of 
good. 

Spirceas are principally summer bloomers, but 
several useful sorts flower in spring, notably arguta, a 
white hybrid blossoming in April ; bracteata, white. May 
and June, having flattened heads of bloom ; and the 
double plum-leaved {prunifolia Jlore pleno\ which flowers 
in April. Arguta is perhaps the prettiest of these. They 
all like well-manured soil. 

Deutzias flower with wonderful profusion, none more 



i66 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

so than the species crenata^ which is wreathed in white 
flowers in late spring. Corymbosa is rather earlier, and 
is also white. The species gracilis is also a free bloomer, 
and is early, but as the flowers are often injured by 
frost, it is generally used for forcing in pots. Planters 
had better make crenata their stand-by, and give it a good 
chance of doing itself justice by providing well-manured 
soil. 

The snowdrop tree is a beautiful white-flowered shrub, 
known to botanists as halesia tetraptera. It flowers in 
late spring, and is such a lovely plant when at its best, 
that it is worth growing well. It prefers a loamy to 
a chalky or clay soil, and if the natural soil is stiff it 
will be well to use loam and leaf-mould, as for rhodo- 
dendrons. 

The Pearl Bush {exochorda graiidijlora) is also beauti- 
ful, and may be treated like the Snowdrop Tree, which 
it will rival in beauty. 

Yellow Kerria. — We have no more cheerful spring 
shrub than the yellow kerria Japotiica. The double form 
{Jlore pleno) is much superior to the single, growing with 
more vigour, and having brighter flowers. It is a very 
good plant for a fence or low wall, and will grow almost 
anywhere. 

The Kahnias, particularly the two species glauca and 
latifolia, are handsome both in foliage and bloom. The 
latter is an evergreen, and is almost worth growing for 
its neat habit and dark green leaves alone, but in addi- 
tion it has pretty white, pink-tinted flowers. They like 
peat and leaf-mould. 

The Snowball tree or Guelder Rose {viburnum opulus 
sterile of botanists), and the still more valuable viburnum 
called plicatum, are two very valuable late spring shrubs. 
The latter is one of the finest flowering shrubs that we 




u 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 167 

have, possessing neat, bushy habit in conjunction with a 
great profusion of beautiful white flowers. It is quite 
worth growing as an isolated specimen in a lawn-bed, 
if shelter can be given. The well-known laurustinus, 
one of the cheap stock evergreens, is also a viburnum 
{tinus), and a very useful plant it is. 

The above are some of the most valuable of the 
spring flowering trees and shrubs, but, after all, they are 
only a small part of the material available, and some of 
the following may be added if there is room. A pretty 
dwarf evergreen with pink flowers, and liking a peaty soil, 
\% andronieda polifolia. Small golden globes, very uncom- 
mon and pretty, borne freely in late spring, form the 
principal attraction of buddleia globosa, which is a loam 
lover. A quaint brown flower, not particularly pretty, 
but highly perfumed, is the Allspice {calycanthus). 

We can hardly rely upon camellias out of doors, 
except in sheltered places, with a warm, well-drained 
soil of peat and loam, consequently we grow them 
almost exclusively under glass ; but they are among the 
finest of garden shrubs in Cornwall, and are often met 
with in other counties. The Judas Tree [cercis siliqua- 
strum) bears purplish, pea-shaped flowers in June. An 
evergreen with deep green, glossy leaves, and abundance 
of sweet white flowers is choisya ternata, a May bloomer 
of much value, and yearly grown more extensively. The 
Japanese quince [cydonia japonica) is a good shrub, but 
is generally grown on low walls, near windows. The 
bright red flowers are followed by fruits. 

Several of the heaths, such as erica carnea, with red 
flowers, and its white variety, are popular. A shrub 
with large white flowers, very much like those of a dog 
rose, is rubus deliciosus, and it is highly ornamental. It 
does very well in clay, but appreciates a rich, loamy soil. 



i68 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

The veronicas are useful because of their dense, ever- 
green habit, but the flowers are not without attraction. 
Traversi, speciosa, and Andersoni are three of the best. 

The Service Berry {amelanchier canadensis) has white 
flowers in spring, and its foliage becomes highly 
coloured in autumn. 



Summer Bloom 

Although the finest of our ornamental trees and 
shrubs are spring bloomers, there are several handsome 
kinds which flower in summer. A quaint plant, with 
purplish flowers followed by violet fruits, is akebia quin- 
ata ; it is often grown on walls. The Strawberry tree 
{arbutus unedd) has white or tinted flowers in late 
summer, followed by berries, which assume a bright 
orange scarlet colour when ripe, late in the following 
year. The catalpas are good trees, and do well in towns. 
There is a famous old specimen in Lincoln's Inn, and a 
grand tree in the Royal Gardens, Kew. The species 
bignonioides bears its large flowers in great profusion, 
and is very handsome. The colours are yellow, white, 
and purple. The ceanothuses are generally used on walls, 
but may be grown on borders. The majority bear blue 
flowers, and one of the best is the variety Gloire de 
Versailles. The Bladder Senna [colutea arborescens) is a 
hardy, easily grown plant, with yellow flowers, followed 
by bladder-like fruits. 

A beautiful but little-grown plant, with large white 
flowers like great single white roses, borne in July, is 
eucryphia pinnatifolia. It likes peaty soil. Fuchsias are 
among the most popular of greenhouse plants, but in 
mild districts one or two of the kinds, notably Riccar- 
touii, will thrive in the open border, and they are well 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 169 

worth growing there, owing to their distinct and graceful 
habit. They last well into the autumn. The rock rose 
{heliantheinmn vulgare) is a valuable dwarf shrub for 
sunny banks, and it is at its best in early summer. 
There are many beautiful varieties of it, and the three 
called Fireball, Magenta King, and roseum, may be 
selected. 

The best of the popular hydrangeas is paniculata 
grandiflora, although it is not so well known as hortensis. 
The latter is extensively grown in greenhouses, but in 
mild districts thrives out of doors. Where the soil con- 
tains iron the flower heads change from pink to blue. 
The St, John's Worts {Jiypericunis) will do in most soils, 
although, like the majority of shrubs, they enjoy 
loam. They grow densely, and bear yellow flowers. 
The common species, calycinum^ grows well under trees, 
and as it is cheap, it may be used for carpeting the soil 
if desired. Moserianum is a handsome hybrid. 

The beautiful late summer- and autumn-flowering 
shrub hibiscus syriacus, with its many varieties, will grow 
in almost any sunny spot. They give us a considerable 
range of colours. The lavender {lavandula spied) must 
not be overlooked. The tulip tree {liriodendron tulipi- 
fera) is a noble and uncommon tree, having large green 
flowers tinted with orange. In deep loamy soil it grows 
to considerable size. Of the acacias, the Locust {robinia 
pseudacacid) and the Rose Acacia {robinia hispidd) flower 
in spring ; but there is a very handsome species with 
rose-coloured flowers, named neo-mexicana, which blooms 
in August. 

The Californian Poppy {romneya coulteri) is a glorious 
shrub, with flowers six inches across, pure white except 
for a central boss of yellow stamens. It is not thoroughly 
hardy, but it is so beautiful as to be well worthy of 



I70 THE PERFFXT GARDEN 

a little special treatment. For instance, it should be 
given a sunny position, sheltered from north and east, 
and rich loamy soil. If, as is likely, the branches are 
cut down to the ground in winter, the rootstock may 
have a covering of dry litter, and fresh shoots will 
appear in spring. Sophora japotiica, with creamy flowers, 
is a useful tree. 

Several of the spircEas, notably aitchisoni (white) and 
douglasi (red), are summer bloomers, and they must not 
be passed by. Styrax japonicu)n, with its beautiful 
white flowers on drooping stalks, is desirable. 

The Yuccas are very handsome, with their large 
leaves and huge columns of bloom. In rich, loamy soil 
they make splendid specimens, and are well worth 
planting by themselves. The Adam's needle {gloriosa) 
blooms in August. There is a somewhat similar plant, 
with semi-pendent leaves, called recurvifolia. 

Autumn and Winter Beauty 

Although there is little of bloom in autumn, there is 
abundance of beauty from leaf and berry. The oranges 
and russets and browns of tree foliage are supplemented 
by the exquisite colouring of many shrubs, and by the 
bright tints of fruits. Acers (maples and sycamore) give 
us abundance of leaf colour. Several have variegated 
leaves. The Japanese Maple [acer Japonicum) colours 
beautifully in autumn. The Silver variegated Box Elder 
{acer negundo variegatd) is a popular nurseryman's tree, 
not too hardy, but safe in sheltered places. The Palm- 
leaved Maple {acer palm atunt) is another Japanese species, 
and there are many good varieties of it. The Norway 
Maple {acer platanoides) has yellow flowers in spring, 
and varieties wnth pretty foliage are plentiful. The 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 171 

Sycamore {acer pseudo-platanus) is also a largely grown 
tree. 

The common Horse Chestnut [cescidus Jiippocastanuni) 
is a very handsome tree, and those who have seen the 
wonderful avenue at Bushey Park in spring do not need 
to be told that it is beautiful in spring bloom as well 
as in autumn tints, A species called parviflora (small 
flowered) blooms in summer, and is good for forming a 
bush. 

The Tree of Heaven {ailanthns glandulosd) is a quick- 
growing tree with enormous leaves, and bright orange 
fruits. It is very easy to grow and extremely handsome. 

Aucubas are among the commonest of shrubs, and 
have a maddening efifect on those writers who are un- 
able to understand that a real and justifiable want exists 
for shrubs that are cheap, grow in most places, and 
are handsome. The aucubas should not be given 
" drawing-room " positions in the garden, but there are 
often rough places under trees, and inconspicuous 
shrubberies, where they are very serviceable. They 
are capital town shrubs. There are both green and 
variegated leaved sorts. Berries are borne freely if a 
few males are mixed among the females. 

The Dogwoods {cornus) include some valuable plants, 
particularly the white-fruited ialba) and its golden varie- 
gated form Spathii; the variegated forms of the Cornelian 
Cherry (mas), and the scarlet {sangtiinea). 

The Hazel {corylus avelland) gives us two useful trees 
in the golden- and purple-leaved forms, known respec- 
tively as aurea and maxima atropurpurea. 

The Spindle Tree {euonymiis europcBus) is valued for 
its bright fruits, and the Japanese s,^qc\qs, japofiicum and 
radicanSf principally for the foliage of their variegated 
forms. They are close, neat growers. 



172 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

The beech {fagus sylvaticd) is a well-known park tree, 
and it has varieties with coloured leaves which are in 
great demand. The Copper is a familiar example. 

Garrya elliptica is an interesting plant, ornamental 
on account of the long yellowish catkins of the male 
form, which are borne in winter. 

The hollies [ilex) are full of beauty, both of leaf and 
berry. They will thrive in most soils. The common is 
a cheap and serviceable plant, but the variegated forms, 
such as the Golden and Silver Milkmaids, and Golden 
and Silver Queens, are more valued. Perry's Weeping 
and Hodgin's, the latter with immense oval leaves, are 
also sought after. 

The Sea Buckthorn {hippophce rhamnoides) may be seen 
on sandbanks near the sea in some districts. It has grey 
leaves and orange berries, which hang till winter. 

The laurels {prunus laurocerasus) may be classed with 
aucubas as general utility plants, very useful where blocks 
of foliage are wanted at small cost, but lacking in indivi- 
dual interest, and not to be given the best positions. The 
Portugal {lusitanica) is smaller leaved than the common, 
and is a dense grower. 

The Mulberry [inorus nigra) has something of interest, 
if not a great deal of beauty, to recomnjend it. Many 
people like to have it as a lawn tree. 

The oaks {gueracs) are too strong in growth for many 
small gardens, but those who have room for them should 
give attention to such handsome kinds as Mirbeck's and 
the Lucombe, also to the varieties of the common. 

Pernettya mucronata is a small, neat, dense, evergreen 
shrub, with beautiful fruits of different colours. It likes 
well-manured soil, and is often grown in pots. 

The Sumach {r/ms) is a varied genus, including the 
Chittam Wood {cotinoides), which colours brightly in 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 173 

autumn ; the Venetian {cotinus), which is attractive for 
its fruits ; the Stag's horn [typhina), which also fruits ; 
and the Poison Ivy [toxicodendron), the foliage of which 
colours in autumn. The last must be handled with gloves, 
as it is poisonous. 

The willows {sali.x) include a variety of the white 
{alba) called vitellina, which has forms with yellow and 
red stems, for the colouring of which they are often 
planted. 

The elders {sambucus) are ornamental both in foliage 
and in fruit. The common {nigra), with its white, per- 
fumed flowers and black fruits, has several variegated 
forms, which nurserymen offer at moderate prices. 

The skinimias are low evergreens with bright red 
fruits, which hang long on the plants. As in the case 
of aucubas, it is necessary to plant both male and female 
forms to get fruit. 

The Snowberry {symphoricarpus racentosus) is not re- 
markable for beauty of flower, leaf, or habit, but it is 
ornamental in autumn, when furnished with its abundant 
crop of white berries, and the fact that it will thrive 
under trees makes it valuable. The Hon. Vicary Gibbs 
recommends cutting this, also such things as spircea 
douglasi, euonynms europceus, and cornus sanguinea, quite 
down to the ground line directly growth starts in spring 
if autumn beauty is sought. He points out, too, that 
leycesteria formosa, generally grown for its fruiting in 
summer, is also valuable for its green stems in winter 
when spring pruned. 

The Sweet Gum {liquidambar styraciflud) reddens 
gloriously in autumn, and the snowy Mespilus {amelan- 
chier) is worth growing from the same cause. The June 
or Service Berry [canadensis) is perhaps the best. 

The Tamarisk {tamarix anglica) is the small-leaved, 



174 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

feathery, pink-flowered shrub, which is often seen in a 
semi-wild state near the sea. It Ukes sandy soil. 

The Tea Tree [lycium chinense), useful for its scarlet 
berries in autumn, will also do well near the sea. 

The Japanese Rose {rosa rugosa), with its vigorous 
growth and great mass of foliage, is valuable for 
making large groups, and its berries are very handsome 
in autumn. 

The Pampas Grass [gynerium or cortaderia argenteuni) 
is neither a shrub nor a tree, but it has all the distinctive 
and pleasing efifect of the best representative of either 
class, and is well worth growing in an isolated position 
on a lawn, where its tall, silvery plumes will be beautiful 
in autumn. It is the better for a little shelter. Arundo 
conspicua is another good plant for this purpose. 



Selected Tables of Trees and Shrubs 

In view of the considerable number of trees and shrubs 
named, it seems desirable to give a few selections for 
those readers who have quite small gardens. 

Large trees. Retinospora obtusa. 

Copper beech. *Maidenhair tree (ginkgo 

Mirbeck's oak. Juni er 

Lombardy poplar (for quick A ■^^ \ , 

\\\\ *LiDocedrus decurrens. 

° '' Picea morinda. 

Scotch fir {pinus sylvestris). 

^ -r h.yx%\.x\2iX\'^\xi^(^pinusaustriacd). 

•^ *Douglas fir. 

Abies nordmanniana. *.Sequoia (Wellingtonia) gigan- 
♦Monkey puzzle (araucaria im- tea. 

bricata). Yew. 

Cedar. Arbor vitae. 

Cryptomeria japonica. Hemlock spruce. 
*Cupressus Lawsoniana. '^Choose for six. 



TREE AND 

Variegated trees. 

Acer negundo variegata. 
Golden and silver hollies. 

Dark-leaved tree. 
Prunus Pissardii. 

Green-leaved trees. 

Tree of Heaven. 
Paulownia imperialis. 

Flowering trees. 

Paul's double scarlet thorn. 

Scotch laburnum. 

Magnolia grandiflora. 

Almond. 

Pyrus spectabilis. 

Lilacs. 

Variegated shrubs. 
Silver and golden box. 



SHRUB BEAUTY 175 

Spath's dogwood. 
Silver and gold ivies. 



Flowering shrubs — JVinter. 

Winter jasmine. 
Mezereon. 
Forsythia suspensa. 
Magnolia stellata. 



Flowering shrubs- — Spring. 

Azalea mollis. 
Rhododendron. 
Flowering currant. 
Diervilla or weigela. 
Kerria, double. 
Viburnum plicatum. 

Flowering shrubs — Summer. 

Spiraea Douglasi. 

„ Aitchisoni. 
Romneya Coulteri. 
Hibiscus syriacus flore pleno. 



Soil for Trees and Shrubs 

Numerous hints as to soil have been given in the 
references to the various kinds. Speaking generally, trees 
and shrubs thrive best in well-manured, loamy soil. 
Clay will suit a large number, provided it is drained, 
well broken up, and manured. When it hes stiff, water- 
logged, and cold, it is unsuitable. Of timber trees beech 
and poplar thrive in clay. The partiality of roses for 
it is well known. For rhododendrons a good deal of 
loam and leaf-mould should be added. Thin soils on 
chalk are perhaps the most difficult to fit, and in view of 
this special lists are given. 



176 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Conifers for chalk. Shrubs for chalk. 

Abies nordmanniana. Berberis. 

Picea morinda. Box. 

Pinus sylvestris. Spiraeas. 

,, Laricio. Brooms. 

Cupressus Lawsoniana. Kerria. 

Mock orange. 

„ /■ , ,7 Flowering currant. 

Trees for chalk. Euonymus. 

Acers (maples). Privet (for hedges). 

Copper beech. St. John's Wort. 

Mountain ash. Lilacs. 

Pyrus floribunda. Viburnum. 
Almonds, peaches, and cherries. Magnolia conspicua. 

Thorns. Diervillas. 

Laburnums. Sumach. 

Catalpa. Laurels. 

Hollies. Aucuba. 

In the case of the best plants it will be well to break 
up a few inches of the chalk and place manure on it. 
Surface dressings (mulchings) of rich manure will be 
very helpful, and they may be put on in the autumn 
every year. 

Pruning Trees and Shrubs 

Knife and shears should be used sparingly, except in 
the cutting down of certain kinds for winter effect, as 
referred to in connection with the Snowberry and other 
plants. Flowering trees need only be kept from becom- 
ing overcrowded. As we have already seen, the majority 
of our best shrubs bloom in spring ; and, in the case of 
these, the shoots should be pruned in after flowering. 
The new shoots which grow during the summer must 
not be pruned, as they constitute the flowering wood of 
the following year. On the other hand, kinds which 
flower late in the year must not be pruned in spring, but 
in autumn. 



TREE AND SHRUB BEAUTY 177 

Old rhododendrons which are growing in suitable 
soil, and have become " leggy " (a gardening phrase 
indicating bareness at the base), may be pruned back 
into the old hard, basal wood with a sharp saw. They 
will bear almost any degree of pruning with cheerfulness, 
breaking freely into strong new growth, and in due time 
blooming well. 



M 



CHAPTER IX 

BULB BEAUTY 

The literary flower-lover may have moments when the 
interests of the garden and the study seem to clash. 
Alluring duties summon him to the garden. There 
are seedlings to be "pricked off," cuttings to be taken, 
herbaceous plants to be put in. It is sunny and spring- 
like. There is a touch of softness in the air after long 
weeks of sharp weather. The call of the garden is 
insistent. But last night — or was it in the early hours of 
this morning? — an entrancing book was left unfinished, 
and there it lies, seductive, appealing, all but irresistible. 

The present (and surely every other) writer knows 
that problem. Perhaps it has been solved ere now 
by setting a not unwilling secretary to walk beside 
him and continue the book while he busied himself 
with the flowers. Every now and then, mayhap, a 
seedling lay motionless on the end of a label, suspended 
in mid-air, uncertain as to whether its fate was to be 
inserted upside down, or whether, indeed, it was ever 
to be put in at all. 

Sometimes the book and the task may have fitted, 

as when the receipt of La Tulipe 'Noire among a parcel 

of books has synchronised with the arrival of a box 

of bulbs, ripe for potting. Then has the inimitable 

creation of Dumas been propped up in the potting 

shed, and the loves and sufferings of Van Baerle, the 

wickedness of Isaac Boxtel, and the tragedy of De Witt, 

178 



BULB BEAUTY 179 

have unrolled themselves during the crocking of pots 
and the mixing of composts. 

The tulips have come back again into favour, but not 
with such feverish force as to revive recollections of the 
old craze, when Semper Augustus and other popular 
varieties were worth many times their weight in gold, 
and when houses and lands were bartered for single 
bulbs. Tulip lovers state their requirements on a de- 
corous order-sheet nowadays, and remit the amount of 
their indebtedness to the dealer through the post ; they 
do not rush to his house in the dead of night, drag him 
out of bed, and flourish title-deeds in his face to induce 
him to part with a rarity. 

In making a brief survey of the resources of bulbdom 
for beautifying our flower gardens, we need not allow 
ourselves to be tied too tightly by a definition. Botanists 
have an exact meaning for the word "bulb," It is not 
a "corm," or a "root," or a "tuber," or a "rhizome"; 
it is just a "bulb." Now, a bulb is built up of a series 
of fleshy scales, so that although an onion is a bulb, an 
anemone is not. Are we, then, going to leave out 
the anemone ? Perish the thought ! Avaunt, defini- 
tion-mongers ! We'll have none of you. The rough 
and ready classification of the bulb-dealer is good 
enough for us. 

That quaint little flower, the winter aconite (eranthis 
hyeinalis)y is good for naturalising, and for forming 
colonies in borders and on banks. Its yellow flower 
is surrounded by a green "ruff," which conjures up 
pictures of Elizabethan nobles. It is often in bloom 
before the snowdrops, and is certainly one of the first 
flowers of the year. It will grow nearly anywhere, and 
costs next to nothing. 

The alliums inspire a wholesome respect, not un- 



i8o THE PERFECT GARDEN 

mixed with fear, in the hardiest soul. One approaches 
them as one does a picturesque Itahan peasant — full 
of admiration, but resolved not to come too near. To 
handle the flowers is to smell like an onion store. 
But one may grow alliums without making button- 
hole flowers of them ; and several, notably the species 
moly, yellow ; neapolitanum, white ; and ostrowskianum, 
rose, are very pretty, as well as inexpensive, plants. 

The Chilian herb lilies {alstromerias) are unlike any- 
thing else one sees in herbaceous borders, and that 
alone is something ; add that they are really beautiful 
flowers, and, when once established, will thrive without 
attention, and we see that they have powerful claims. 
When one sees alstromerias perfectly at home in a 
cottage garden, forming a large clump and yielding 
scores of flowers, with never a bit of cultivation of any 
kind, and when one hears of their failing in larger 
places, one becomes convinced that they belong to 
that small class which thrives better without division 
and manuring than with it. There is such a class ; it 
is not a big one, but it exists. On the whole, they 
prefer light soil to heavy. All the same, a cottager 
friend of the writer points proudly to a fine clump 
on most uncompromising clay, and, what is more, 
preens himself on having scored over an unwary 
judge by including the flower in a collection of hardy 
annuals, and taking first prize. The species pelegrina, 
with its white, purple, and yellow flowers, is the most 
beautiful of the alstromerias, but is perhaps scarcely 
so hardy as chilensis. Plant in autumn. 

The ainaryllises, which the botanists now call 
hippeastrunis, are not for flower gardeners, but the 
species belladonna, which is none other than our lovely 
friend the belladonna lily, is, provided we can give it 



BULB BEAUTY i8i 

a warm, dry position, and protect it with litter in the 
winter. In the botanic gardens they put things of 
this half-hardy or three-quarters-hardy class — calochorti, 
nerines, watsonias, and so forth — in sunny borders beside 
the plant-houses, where there is shelter and comparative 
warmth. It is well to be on the alert in buying bella- 
donna lihes. Order them early in autumn, but let the 
dealer send them at his own time, and plant them 
directly they come, preferably in well-drained, sandy, 
loamy soil. They are often in growth when they 
come, but that will not matter provided they are dealt 
with promptly. 

Bulb-dealers sell roots of many beautiful and cheap 
anemones, which can be bought and planted like crocuses 
in autumn ; but the flower lover must never be content 
without a stock of the modern strains of crown anemone 
{coronarid), notably that known as the Alderborough. A 
strain of crown anemone originated in Ireland, and was 
called the St. Brigid ; this itself is beautiful, the flowers 
being as large as poppies, but much more varied in 
colour. The Alderborough strain is apparently an im- 
proved St. Brigid. The flowers are large, and embrace 
single, semi-double, and double. The colours are very 
brilliant and varied, and include some glorious blues. 
The tubers can be planted either in autumn or spring. 
The writer finds that the cheapest way of getting a 
large stock is to sow seed in spring. On his moist 
clay soil he generally flowered them the same year, but 
all bloomed beautifully the following spring. Nearly 
all the popular anemones — apennina^ blanda, fiilgens, 
hortensis, japonica, memorosa, Pulsatilla (pasque flower), 
sylvestris — are beautiful, but the Alderborough crown 
anemone is the finest garden plant of all. 

The true arums, as distinguished from the white 



i82 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

"Arum lily," which is not an arum but a richardia 
{calla), are more quaint than pretty. This is a mild 
way of saying that they come as near to being down- 
right ugly as flowers can. The plant grandiloquently 
called the Monarch of the East {sauromatum guttatum) 
is arum cornutum. The " Black Calla " is arum arisarum. 
Perhaps the best species is italicum, which has greenish 
variegated flowers, green leaves spotted with white, and 
scarlet fruits. In cold districts the arums (if grown) 
should be given light soil and winter protection ; but 
in a mild spot the writer found them to thrive (only 
too well !) on clay, and unprotected. The arum lily 
itself will thrive out of doors in mild districts, provided 
it has plenty of moisture. 

We glanced at tuberous begonias in our chapter on 
Colour, and saw that they were good, not for bold, 
upstanding masses, like paeonies and phloxes and del- 
phiniums — they are low growers — but they make lovely 
masses of colour. They are "handy" things, too, 
because you can start the tubers in shallow boxes of 
leaf-mould or cocoa-nut fibre refuse in a frame in 
spring, keep them in boxes till the spring flowers are 
over, and then plant them out in cool, moist weather. 
They will not start well in hot, dry weather, nor in 
poor, light, dry soil. They like rich, holding ground, 
and abundance of moisture. On a thin, chalky soil 
the writer had a pleasant and somewhat unexpected 
success by planting them in a bed among wichuraiana 
roses. The long canes of the latter sprawled all over 
them, but apparently did them good instead of harm, 
perhaps by keeping them cool and shaded. Any way, 
the begonias throve and the wichuraiana roses throve, 
and there was the bed all full of fat stems, thick, broad, 
shining foliage, and beautiful flowers. 



BULB BEAUTY 183 

The most exquisitely painted of all bulbous flowers 
is the mariposa lily, or butterfly tulip {calochortus), a 
Californian plant, loving warm, well-drained, loamy soil, 
and sunshine. It is worth a journey to Kew at the 
end of June to see the border of these lovely bulbs. 
The flower lover will not fail to observe that they are 
given a warm, sheltered place. They would probably 
fail in a cold one, especially on heavy, damp soil. The 
bulbs cost about half-a-crown a dozen. The varieties 
of venustus are as good as any for growing out of 
doors, as they have a strong constitution. The flowers 
are beautifully marked, the inside of the large white 
or yellow cups being boldly blotched. They may be 
planted in autumn, provided the position is a warm one. 

We stretch elasticity to its extreme when we class 
the canna among bulbs, but it is a bulb-dealer's plant, 
and may be included. Fine modern varieties, such as 
America, Aurore, Austria, Italia, Konigin Charlotte, 
Menelik, Madame Crozy, and Plato, are very little 
inferior to Gladioli in size, and in the richness of their 
colouring. They are not quite so convenient, because 
they cannot be stored in so small a compass. If dried 
quite off they often die in the winter. Gardeners gener- 
ally store them under greenhouse stages, and propagate 
them by division when they start growing in spring, 
planting them out in June. They enjoy a deep, rich, 
cool soil, with plenty of moisture. They are doubly 
valuable for colour groups on account of their splendid 
foliage. In some varieties it is green, in others bronze 
or brown, but it is large and handsome in all. 

The Glory of the Snow [chionodoxa lucilice) is a dainty 
blue companion to the snowdrop, and grows as freely. 
It can be bought with other bulbs in autumn, and 
planted then. 



i84 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

The Christmas and Lenten Roses {hellebores) are of 
the large class that are not truly bulbous, but are dealt 
in by bulb-merchants. The Christmas Roses are varieties 
of helleborus niger^ and the Lenten Roses of helleborus 
orient alls. 

When you go into Kew Gardens on a bitter January 
day and find clumps of Christmas Roses full of beautiful 
white flowers, you realise how valuable the plants are. 
At Kew they are planted among hardy ferns — a singular 
but by no means inappropriate plan. The flowers are 
delightfully pure and clean. 

Where the Christmas Roses thrive — and they do best 
in rich, heavy, cool soil ; worst in shallow, poor, dry 
ground — they spread into large clumps, some of which 
may be taken up in autumn and potted. Or the bulb- 
dealer will sell you plants at about a shilling each. 
There are several varieties, two of the best known being 
the narrow-leaved angustifolius, and the large maximus. 

The meadow saffron {colchicuni autumnale) has the 
peculiarity of flowering in autumn, and not throwing up 
leaves until spring. Kentish cottagers call it "naked 
boys " because of this. The type is like a very large 
purple crocus, and it is sometimes called the autumn 
crocus. There are several varieties of it, some double. 
The meadow saffron makes interesting little patches of 
colour in its season. 

The crinmn is a splendid bulb, and it is sad that it is 
not perfectly hardy. Like the butterfly tulip it must have 
a warm, sheltered place, such as a sunny greenhouse 
border, if it is to thrive in the open air. The pretty 
pink species capense, sometimes known as longifolium, 
and its white variety, also the rose-coloured Powellii, 
are the most likely of these beautiful amaryllids to 
succeed out of doors. They suffer a great deal from 



BULB BEAUTY 185 

cold winds, and must be protected from north and 
easterly gales. Given that shelter, and a deep, loamy 
soil, they are gloriously beautiful. Purchasable in 
autumn, they are not at all dear, although they do not 
come into the class of bulb that the average person can 
afford to buy by the thousand. 

Some of the most beautiful of the species of crocus 
were named in the selections of plants for rockwork, 
but we must not despise the spring-flowering Dutch 
section, such as Avalanche, King of the Blues, Golden 
Yellow, and Sir Walter Scott. These bright little 
plants are dirt cheap, and make very cheerful colonies. 
Growers find that birds are very fond of pulling the 
yellow flowers to pieces. A line of black thread just 
above them generally suffices for protection. 

We have already discussed the Crown Imperial (see 
the chapter on Colour). We have also alluded to the 
hardy cyclamens, such as comn and europceum. These 
make charming little colonies on rockwork, both foliage 
and flowers being pretty ; in fact, there is nothing more 
dainty in the way of low rock-plants. They may be 
in bloom any time from September to March. 

The bulb lover will find many uses for daffodils and 
narcissi, and if he be wise he will look out for advertise- 
ments of cheap things like Barrii conspicuus, poeticus, 
Henry Irving, golden spur, obvallaris, Horsfieldii, 
Empress, pallidus praecox, Van Sion, Sir Watkin, Stella 
superba, and the common Lent lily in autumn. The 
Cambridgeshire bulb-growers, who are mostly centred 
at Wisbech, offer these varieties by the hundred and 
thousand at rates which make the amateur rub his eyes, 
and wonder whether he is awake ; or else carefully close 
one eye, and scent a " fake." The bulbs are right 
enough. The writer has been over the growers' grounds, 



i86 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

and has bought their bulbs. The majority have bloomed, 
and on the whole he has been satisfied. If you buy 
a thousand bulbs of the lovely poeticus for ten shillings, 
and eight hundred odd flower, your grumble is not 
likely to be a very deep one. Of course some people 
would complain if they had been paid to take the bulbs, 
and nine hundred and ninety-nine out of the thousand 
had flowered. 

It is cheap, popular narcissi like those named that 
make gardens. There is no earthly reason why they 
should not be planted in clumps in herbaceous borders 
in autumn, as well as colonised in grass, for it is easy to 
lift them out in spring when their bloom is over, and 
put them in some out-of-the-way spot till autumn. 
Another way of getting large quantities of narcissi 
cheaply is to approach florists who force them on a 
large scale in boxes for early cut bloom. These growers 
do not care to force the same bulbs again, yet they are 
all right for flowering out of doors. 

Flower lovers often complain of the non-blooming 
of the double poeticus, often called the gardenia narciss. 
This may be due to imperfect ripening of the bulbs in 
some cases, but it is certainly a result of planting late 
in poor, parched soil in others. This, like most narcissi, 
loves a cool, moist soil. The writer has planted large 
numbers of the cheap Wisbech bulbs in clay in October, 
some of them none too large and plump, and they have 
bloomed almost to a bulb. In dry soil the flower stems 
show, and the buds form, but they shrivel instead of 
expanding. 

Dahlias have had sufficient attention in earlier 
chapters. Dog's Tooth violets [erythroniums] have also 
been mentioned, but briefly ; they are useful little plants, 
and uncommon. If you did not admire their pretty 



BULB BEAUTY 187 

flowers (but you would, never fear) you would succumb 
to the attractions of their marked leaves, which some 
folk say are as handsome as the foliage of lady's slipper 
orchids. The ordinary kind {dens-canis) and its varieties 
can be bought for about five shillings a hundred, but 
the bigger ones, like giganteum, cost two shillings a 
dozen. They are very nice for rockwork, and for form- 
ing little colonies in borders, where they are not in 
danger of being overrun by rampageous neighbours. 
Plant in autumn. 

Although the Crown Imperial is the largest of the 
fritillaries it is not by any means the only one worth 
growing. Indeed no ! The species meleagris, the snake's 
head lily, is a most original plant, having drooping, urn- 
shaped flowers, tessellated with purple. The writer 
once saw a bed in Kew Gardens which struck him as 
full of interest and charm, although there was nothing 
whatever brilliant about it. The quaint flowers were 
swinging idly in the breeze. The bulbs cost about three 
and sixpence a hundred in autumn. 

The name galanthus sounds a little awe-inspiring, 
but it stands for nothing more formidable than our dear 
little friend the snowdrop, which we have already glanced 
at under rockery flowers. The Lincolnshire and Cam- 
bridgeshire growers are almost as great at turning out 
cheap snowdrops as cheap narcissi, and there are no 
better bulbs than theirs. The old single variety is as 
good as anything for naturalising in grass, but rockery 
lovers may prefer Elwes's giant variety. 

In "Colour for all Seasons" we saw what a useful 
plant galtonia {hyacinthus) candicans is. It bears white 
flowers on a tall, arched stem, and looks at its best 
when it is rising from other things. As it only costs 
five or six shillings a hundred, it may be used for 



i88 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

grouping. It associates well, for instance, with gladiolus 
brenchleyensis, which we have already noted as a grand 
border plant, full of colour, and quite cheap. The 
galtonia may be bought and planted in autumn. 

Hyacinths are used in immense quantities in the 
London parks, and when at their freshest look very 
well as mere blocks of colour. Unfortunately they have 
a rather " squat " appearance, and their lack of grace 
tells against them as garden plants. They do not last 
very long either. The park gardener tries to relieve 
their dumpiness by associating them with some graceful 
narciss, such as Sir Watkin, but he does not wholly 
succeed. One may cushion them around with forget- 
me-not and arabis, but cannot be sure that all will 
be in bloom together. When they are, they make very 
charming little bits of colour. Like daffodils, hyacinths 
are clay lovers. We have really got altogether wrong 
ideas about bulbs, classing them as light-soil plants 
pure and simple, on no other ground than that they 
are grown commercially with success on the sand-dunes 
of Holland. The secret of the success of the Dutchman 
is not the sand, but the moisture in the peat-beds just 
beneath it. Plants with big masses of thirsty roots like 
these bulbs are almost always clay lovers, because of 
the moisture. If hyacinths are planted in any quantity, 
sorts of distinctive character, like Gigantea and Gran- 
deur a Merveille, blush ; La Grandesse, white ; Charles 
Dickens, Grand Maitre, and King of the Blues, blue ; 
and Robert Steiger and Von Schiller, reds, should be 
chosen. 

The grape, feather, and musk hyacinths {inuscari) are 
pretty little things, charming alike for rockeries, borders, 
and groundwork for beds. The writer has colonised 
the lovely little grape hyacinth called Heavenly Blue 



BULB BEAUTY 189 

on a shady bank near water, and had exquisite cushions 
during daffodil time. The bulbs cost about five shillings 
a hundred, so they are not at all dear. 

The irises are a great host, rich alike in numbers, 
diversity, and colour. We have already glanced at them, 
noticing particularly the splendour of the Japanese iris 
for growing by the water-side. Some of the cheapest, 
and some of the most beautiful, of the irises are true 
bulbs. Of the former we may name the English, cost- 
ing about three shillings a hundred, and the Spanish, 
costing very little more than a shilling a hundred. 
These prices ought to be low enough, even for West 
Ham. And mind, the flowers are really beautiful. In 
Major Shuttleworth's beautiful garden in Bedfordshire, 
Old Warden Park, they bed out cheap white bulbous 
irises among the roses — an uncommon plan, and a very 
good one. 

Several of the bulbous irises are winter bloomers. 
The writer has a vivid recollection of plunging round 
a snowbound Dutch nursery one bitter day in early 
March, and being led to a corner wherein a clump of 
the little, six-inch-high, yellow iris called Danfordice was 
blooming. It looked so warm and cheerful in the snow 
that he felt he could warm his feet at it. Bakeriana is 
another winter six-incher — a pretty little plant with blue 
and white scented flowers, but too dear as yet to buy in 
quantity : the price is about three shillings per bulb. 
Alata, pale blue dotted with yellow, costs about eighteen- 
pence a dozen, and is good. The Actor iris, kistrto, 
blue, marked with yellow and purple, is another genuine 
winter bloomer, as hardy as an oak. The Persian iris 
{persicd), pale blue and yellow, and Heldreich's variety 
of it {Heldreichii), rich blue, marked with violet and 
yellow, are lovely little irises. The former costs about 



I90 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

fivepence a bulb, the latter eightpence. They are not 
cheap enough to colonise, but they are gems for the 
rockery. One of the most popular of the bulbous irises 
is reticulata, purplish blue, yellow crested and black 
spotted, deliciousiy perfumed ; it is an exquisite winter 
flower for the rockery, or for pot culture in a frame. 
The price is only about three shillings a hundred. 
Rosenbachiana, violet, blue, and yellow, is a favourite 
with iris lovers, but it costs something like three 
shillings a bulb. All these irises thrive in good, 
rock-garden soil. 

The class called cushion irises contains one of the 
most interesting of all, namely, the great, sombre Mourn- 
ing iris, susiana, the greyish flowers of which are closely 
netted with chestnut. It is a tall plant, with an individu- 
ality all its own. The price is about three and six a 
dozen. It must not be planted in early autumn and left 
unprotected, or it will grow, and probably get damaged 
by frost. It is best to plant towards the end of Novem- 
ber, and have some bracken at hand to spread over the 
bulbs in case of severe weather. There is a lovely 
" cushion " called Gatesii, creamy white dotted with 
silver, covered with a grey network, and bearded with 
yellow, that takes the iris lover by storm. It is of low 
growth, but has a large flower. Unfortunately it is 
rather too dear for most folk, the dealers asking five 
shillings per bulb. 

The non-bulbous, or rhizome-rooted, section begins 
and ends, in the case of many amateurs, with the blue 
" flag," so much at home in town gardens, and thriving 
in poor soil. It is truly a plant to be grateful for, but 
perhaps not to concentrate one's self upon. There are 
two or three which certainly ought to be grown in 
addition. One of these is aphylla Madame Ckereau, a 



BULB BEAUTY 191 

beautiful white flower with broad Hlac margin. Another 
\s pallida, a huge, lavender-coloured three-footer. (There 
is a lovely variety of this called dalmatica, but it costs 
about five times as much.) Both of these cost about 
the same as the blue flag — say three shillings a dozen. 
The species sibirica, and its white variety, alba, both 
costing only about two shiUings a dozen, are favourites 
of the writer. He has been able to make good use of 
them in heavy, cool soil, which they seem to love. 

Irises of some sort or other we must have. Happy 
the person who can afford the luxury of a complete 
collection. He will grow some of the dwarf winter 
bloomers in pots, perhaps ; others in the rock garden. 
And in his herbaceous borders he will have the noble 
clumps of the rhizome irises. With the exception of 
the rather tender "cushion" sorts all the irises can be 
planted like Dutch bulbs in autumn. 

The African corn lihes {ixias) are graceful, if some- 
what artificial-looking, bulbs. They include that rarity 
in flowers, a green, but if the most uncommon, it is 
not the prettiest. Crateroides (or speciosa), scarlet, is 
about the best, but there is a charming yellow called 
Golden Drop, and a white named Snowflake. They all 
cost about a shilling a dozen. The ixias are not fully 
hardy, and some people keep them in pots. Lachenalias 
are pretty in hanging baskets. Wire baskets are quite 
suitable if lined with moss, as the latter keeps the soil 
in. The bulbs may be put all round the sides. 

The Snowflakes (leucojums) are every whit as pretty 
as Snowdrops, but not nearly so well known. The 
flowers are larger, and are white, tipped with green. 
There are several species, but two stand out in front 
of the rest, namely, the Summer Snowflake {cestivuni) 
and the Spring {yernuvi). The former is a beautiful 



192 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

flower for rockwork, and has a very pleasant violet 
perfume. The price of both is about five shillings a 
hundred, and bulbs can be bought and planted in 
autumn. 

The lilies, from the little Lily of the Valley {conval- 
larid) to the majestic liliuni auratum, are full of charm. 
Who can resist the Lily of the Valley, with its dainty 
little white spikes and delicious odour ? Pity 'tis that 
people will not grow it well in their gardens, but merely 
force it, and take it in an unnatural state, \\k& pate de foie 
o^ras. This little woodland flower loves cool soil and 
shade. The Fortin variety is finer than the common, 
but costs more — about seven shillings per hundred, 
flowering crowns. One can buy Lilies of the Valley 
thus, or in what the dealer calls clumps, and the latter 
may be bought for planting out in autumn, although 
crowns are advisable for forcing. 

We gave attention to the liliums in the chapter on 
Colour, and need not go over the ground again. 
Amateurs will bear in mind what glorious flowers 
these are, and remember to order bulbs in autumn — 
candiduin (the Madonna lily) in summer, as it is an early 
grower. 

The Star of Bethlehem [prnithogalum umbellatum) is a 
pretty white-flowered bulb that only costs about three 
shillings a hundred, and may be planted in the border 
in autumn. 

The florists' ranunculus is an old flower, very sym- 
metrical, very brilliantly coloured, but a little stiff and 
artificial in appearance. It has fallen out of favour some- 
what these later years, and may never again regain its 
old place. It has a curious, claw-like, tuberous root, 
which dealers sell at a low rate (about eighteenpence 
a hundred) with bulbs in autumn. Of the several 




a good dark form of lilium auratum, grown by 
Mr. W. C. Blakeway. 



BULB BEAUTY 193 

sections perhaps that called the Turban is the best. 
There are many distinct varieties of it, as there are 
of the other sections. The roots may be planted in 
autumn, but the old florists (who knew very well what 
they were about) used to plant them in February, claws 
downward, about two inches deep. 

On New Year's Day of 1908 the writer found in a 
sheltered corner at Kew a clump of plants, with stems 
about a foot high, bearing scarlet flowers. The day 
was bitterly cold, and the sight of these gay blossoms 
was as cheering as it was unexpected. The plant is an 
old one, which very few people know. It is sometimes 
called the Winter gladiolus ; its formal name is schizo- 
stylis coccinea. The plant will grow in ordinary garden 
soil, and may be potted up in autumn for blooming 
in conservatories. Flowering out of doors in the cool 
weather, it generally lasts a long time in beauty. Hear- 
ing all this, and knowing nothing whatever about this 
plant, the reader naturally assures himself that it must 
be a very expensive one. On the contrary, it costs 
about tenpence a dozen ! 

The squills, particularly the Siberian {scilla sibiricd), 
are excellent little early-blooming bulbs. The latter 
only costs about eighteenpence a hundred, and its blue 
flowers are very bright. There is a white variety of it. 
Bifolia is another delightful little blue bulb, flowering 
with the snowdrops, and costing very little. Both these 
blue squills make a charming groundwork for taller 
plants in beds. There are pink, rose, and white varieties 
of bifolia. Scilla festalis is the well-known " bluebell." 

The Sparaxis is very similar to the ixia, and may be 
grown in the same way. 

The tigridia {ferraria) is one of the most brilliant, 
if evanescent, of flowers. The species pavonia is the 

N 



194 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Tiger Flower. Its markings of crimson, orange, and 
yellow are very rich. They are not quite hardy, and 
are best treated like gladioli, going into the ground in 
April, and being lifted in early autumn for winter storage 
in a frost-proof place. 

The American Wood Lily {trillium grandifloruni) is a 
beautiful bulb, white as the driven snow, and charming 
for a colony in shade. One may see it thus established 
in the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society at 
Wisley, near Ripley, Surrey, which every flower lover 
should visit in late spring. The Wood Lily costs about 
half-a-crown a dozen. If the soil is stiff, peat and leaf 
soil or sandy loam would improve it. 

Sternbefgia lutea is a very pretty and valuable autumn 
bloomer that thrives in any fairly light, warm soil. The 
tiowers are bright yellow. It looks very nice on rock- 
work. A newer species called macrantha, which also has 
yellow flowers, but is larger than lutea, and produces its 
leaves in spring instead of autumn, is coming into favour. 

The tropceolunis are pretty ramblers. The flaming 
speciosuni has been mentioned already, and its love of 
cool, moist conditions duly noted. It is a glorious plant 
where it thrives — few finer, indeed — but alas ! it succeeds 
with few. There is a pretty yellow creeping species 
called polyphylluni, which looks very bright when cloth- 
ing a low stump. Unlike speciosum, it loves a warm, 
sunny position, and a comparatively dry soil, such as 
sandy loam. It is quite a cheap plant. 

We get immense variety, as well as wonderful rich- 
ness of colouring, in the tulip. This old flower has had 
a strange, eventful history. It has been one of fortune's 
playthings — now a species of gambling counter, dissipat- 
ing fortunes, exciting speculators— now no more than 
the centre of a little narrow coterie of florists. 



BULB BEAUTY 195 

There was, perhaps is to this day, a society — a kind 
of antedikivian institution — living on the past of the tuHp, 
with a mere handful of members, and cultivating a class 
which garden lovers scarcely know the existence of. The 
tulip fancier estimates the merits of his flowers by the 
regularity of their markings. His white grounds, which 
he calls byblceniens and roses^ must be white grounds ; 
and his yellow grounds, which he calls bizarres, must be 
yellow. If a flower which should have a white ground- 
work is stained with yellow, or vice versd, it is condemned ; 
it is a sort of plant pariah, and must be cast out. There 
is no gainsaying that these florists' tulips, with their 
large, cup-shaped, solid-petalled flowers, as substantial as 
kitchen pottery, and yet as delicate as old china, and 
with their exquisite purity of colour, are very beautiful ; 
but they are too scarce, too expensive — too intimate and 
exacting a study — for everyday flower lovers. They are 
tulips to specialise, to put in a sacred corner to them- 
selves, and be covered with an awning when in bloom, 
and be visited by little, whispering groups of the elect, 
who scrutinise deliberately, and give judgment after an 
almost microscopic examination. 

We have seen that we are not to despise the earl 
Dutch tulip. It is a useful little flower, thriving in most 
soils, very cheerful in colour, and very, very cheap. The 
person who does not mind buying in mixture can get 
a hundred bulbs for half-a-crown or three and sixpence. 
We willingly dot clumps of early tulips in our borders, 
where they make bright patches of colour in April. But 
we will not make the mistake of cramming large beds 
with them — great splashes of unrelieved colour. This 
sort of thing is well enough for pleasing the crowds who 
visit the town parks, and whose floral tastes are elemen- 
tary, but flower lovers want something better. Bed early 



196 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

tulips by all means if you like, but do not make smears 
of them. Put them in separate groups, and carpet the 
ground between them with arabis, or squills, or forget- 
me-nots. This can be done as soon as the ground is 
clear in autumn. The bulbs may be covered with two 
inches of soil. The following are a few of the very best 
varieties : — Brunhilde, buff yellow, flamed with white ; 
Chrysolora, a well-known yellow ; Cottage Maid, white, 
edged with pink, very pretty, and one of the cheapest ; 
Joost van Vondel, crimson and white, also a very fine 
pure white variety ; Keizer's Kroon, scarlet, edged with 
yellow, a tall, upstanding, large-fiowered sort ; Le Reve, 
buff pink, a beautiful thing ; Mon Tresor (Ophir d'Or), 
a very fine yellow ; Pink Beauty, pink, with a white spire 
in each petal, very beautiful ; Prince of Austria, orange 
scarlet, sweet ; Proserpine, dark rose, one of the earliest ; 
Queen of the Whites, a glorious pure white ; Thomas 
Moore, orange buff, a very old favourite with bedders ; 
Vermilion Brilliant, scarlet; and White Swan, an ex- 
quisite pure white, with pointed flowers. The foregoing 
are singles. The following are nice doubles : — Blanche 
Hative, an early white, charming for cutting ; Couronne 
des Roses, rose shaded white ; Imperator Rubrorum, 
crimson ; La Candeur, white ; Murillo, blush ; Salvator 
Rosa, rose ; and Tournesol Yellow, yellow, shaded with 
orange. 

The Due van Thol tulips, single and double, various 
colours, are very early, and being extremely small are 
generally kept for pots, but there is no reason why we 
should not avail ourselves of their early colour out of 
doors. 

If the flower gardener cannot carpet his tulip beds 
with one of the plants suggested, he might give attention 
to the sorts with variegated leaves. Many people who 



BULB BEAUTY 197 

have grown tulips for years do not know that such 
a class exists. Not only does it, but it is composed 
of varieties whose flowers are identical with those of 
standard sorts. Just as you can get a number of sweet 
peas in both the ordinary tall and in dwarf strains (called 
Cupids), so you can get tulips in green-leaved and in 
variegated-leaved strains, the flowers being the same in 
both. The coloration of the foliage is not alike in all. 
Some are green with white edges, some green with yellow 
edges. There are varieties, too, in which the marginal 
colour is broken ; as, for instance, silver is splashed with 
red. 

The Parrot tulips are a singular and flamboyant class. 
The petals have the curve of a parrot's beak, and are 
twisted and crinkled in an extraordinary way. The 
colours are generally flaming combinations, as in the 
popular variety Markgraaf von Baden, which has a 
yellow interior, and external featherings of scarlet, green, 
and purple. There is nothing stiff and constrained about 
Parrot tulips. They are a rollicking, riotous set. When 
they get together there is a " we-won't-go-home-till- 
morning" air about them which seems to mark them 
out as very desperate fellows, well fed up with wild oats, 
which have got to be sown without delay. And they 
have a "way with them" when cut, and disposed in 
bowls of old ware. 

It is only necessary to make a very brief reference 
here to the late Darwin and Cottage tulips, which were 
dealt with fully in the chapter on Colour. They are the 
great class — the most important of all our tulips for garden 
effects. They are much dearer, it is true, than the sec- 
tions which we have just been discussing, and their late 
flowering upsets the old bedding routine ; but we must 
not be without them, even if a sacrifice has to be made. 



198 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

The Zephyr Flower {Zephyranthes Candida) is a pretty 
autumn-blooming bulb, with white, crocus-like flowers 
in autumn, which thrives in cool soil. It costs about 
eighteenpence a dozen, and may be planted in spring. 

Here, then, is a survey of the great and popular 
family of bulbous and allied plants. We see that it gives 
us an immense variety of splendid material, blooming at 
all seasons of the year. We find in it tall plants and 
dwarf — plants for masses, and plants for relieving masses. 
It gives us beauty for the borders, the beds, the wild 
garden, the turf, and the woodland. Most of the plants 
which compose it are cheap and easy to grow ; and if 
all are not equally suitable for all sorts of soil, kinds can 
be found which will thrive whatever the ground may be. 
Some of our bulbs like sun, some enjoy shade. Some 
are at home on banks, others in the rockery. As a 
class they are worthy of our closest attention, giving us 
unrivalled beauty and perfume without making unreason- 
able demands either on our means or knowledge. 



CHAPTER X 

SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS AND HOW TO USE THEM 

There are some garden favourites that we rarely think 
of as belonging to any particular class. We do not 
associate them with herbaceous plants, or rock plants, 
or bedders, or anything else ; they are just themselves. 
Of course this does not hold with the botanist. No 
plant has an individuality so strong as to restrain the 
botanist from laying a classifying hand upon it, and 
thrusting it into some pigeon-hole or other, A resolute 
man, the botanist, but a peculiar. He loves to fix plants 
up with Latin names, and docket them. Then he has 
a kind of spring cleaning ; he takes them out of their 
pigeon-holes, and names them all over again. Mean- 
time, people with fads for English names have also dealt 
with the plants, and as they never agree with each other 
a poor plant gets as long a list of names as a babe of 
the Blood. 

Annual Asters. — A flower which provides an illus- 
tration of both points is the annual aster. It is a plant 
which flower lovers never think of classifying, and it is 
a two-name plant. The seedsman puts h.h.a. after the 
aster, and the letters stand for half-hardy annual. But 
this does not constitute a classification, because there is 
no agreement as to whether annuals are herbaceous 
plants or not. In the minds of some authorities every 
plant is herbaceous which dies to the ground in the 



200 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

autumn. Whether the roots which it leaves there are 
alive or dead does not count with them. Others (and 
these the majority) only class as herbaceous plants those 
which, while losing their leaves and stems every year, 
retain their roots, and spring afresh from them season 
after season. The asters that we are discussing now are 
annuals. The true aster — the starwort or Michaelmas 
daisy — is perennial. The former, in popular parlance, 
is non-herbaceous, the latter is truly herbaceous. 

Coming to the name, there is no doubt that it is the 
perennial which has the better claim to be called aster. 
It is far and away the older plant in British gardens. 
It came to us in the sixteenth century, whereas the 
popular annual did not arrive until the eighteenth. The 
word aster comes from star, and when we look at the 
beautiful double asters grown nowadays we wonder 
how the name came into being in association with such 
a flower. Then we recollect that when it first came to 
us it was not double at all, but single, and that we have 
doubled it since. With our interest aroused, we " look 
into things." We find that the real name of our plant is 
callistephus sinensis, and that we can get seed of the 
original plant. We buy it, grow it, and see at once the 
" star " association. Our forebears found callistephus 
sinensis rather too big a handful for them, so they called 
the mauve flower which had come to us from the 
celestial empire the China aster. The China aster it 
has remained ever since, and the China aster it will be 
to the end of the chapter. 

When the aster lover studies his flower he finds that 
the florists have given him quite a large number of 
sections. For instance, there is the quilled, which 
has rolled florets ; there is the paeony-flowered, which 
has incurved florets ; there is the Victoria, which has 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 201 

recurved florets ; there is the comet, which has broad, 
flat florets ; and there is the ostrich plume, which has 
loose, feathery masses of florets. Thus, a collection of 
different types of China asters reveals types so different 
that it might be made up of distinct plants. Nor are 
these the only sections. There is a valuable one called 
the dwarf chrysanthemum-flowered, and another called 
the dwarf bouquet. The latter is a very short, close 
grower, and consequently comes in useful for edgings 
or pots. 

The most modern section of the China aster is the 
ostrich plume, and it is the best for flower-gardening, 
because of its graceful habit. It is loose, but not 
straggly, free-branching and free-blooming. The flowers 
are light, fleecy masses. It is a glorious plant for beds, 
or for colour effects in borders. 

The great value of the China asters lies in the fact that 
you can grow them as a reserve, and plant them out, or 
pot them, at almost any stage — even when they are in 
bud. Thus, if you have some late tulips flowering on 
into early summer, all that you have to do is to bring 
a few boxes of young asters quietly along, and you have 
a supply of splendid material to take the place of the 
bulbs when they at last terminate their brilliant career. 
Really, every flower gardener ought to have a reserve of 
China asters, whether he foresees a specific use for them 
or not. The seed costs only a few pence, and the 
culture is of the simplest. April is early enough to sow, 
and no hot-bed is wanted, the seed germinating quite 
readily in a greenhouse or frame. After the end of the 
month it may be sown in the open garden, like ordinary 
hardy annuals. What the gardener terms "pricking 
off" — that is, transferring the seedlings from the seed- 
pan to boxes — ought to be done before the litttle plants 



202 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

get crowded, and they ought to have abundance of air. 
They have an enemy in the form of a small black fly, 
which quickly spoils them if it is not kept in check. The 
remedy is to buy half a pound of quassia chips from 
a chemist, put a handful in a large bowl of water at 
night, and syringe the liquid over the asters next day. 
It should be used before the fly spreads very much, as a 
preventive. 

Zonal Geraniums. — In one of her delightful books 
on gardening Miss Gertrude Jekyll tells of the astonish- 
ment, not unmingled with reproach, which was shown 
by some visitors to her garden when they discovered 
Zonal Geraniums there. (By the way, it is important to 
use the word "zonal" in connection with the tender 
geranium, in order to distinguish it from the true, or 
hardy, geranium.) The zonal geranium is the head and 
front of the hated bedding system. Take it away, and 
there is no bedding system. But indubitably Miss 
Jekyll was right in declining to deny herself the use 
of a particular plant on no other grounds than that it 
stands for a system. You may use the plant without 
swallowing the system. It is easy to work up a feeling 
of intense loathing for the bedding system, but it is very 
hard to feel a whole-hearted detestation for a geranium. 
You might as well try to hate a sparrow because it pulls 
up your seedlings and bullies your pet swallows. There 
is something irresistibly cheerful about both geraniums 
and sparrows. You breathe destruction upon them one 
moment, and you forgive them the next. 

In the summer of 1907 the writer contemplated a dry 
bank in a new garden which he was forming. The 
peculiar position, and the impending hot weather (which, 
however, did not come until September), forced him to 
the conclusion that zonal geraniums were the plants to 




o 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 203 

meet the demands of the case. He accordingly resolved 
to brave the rage and horror of flower-loving visitors, 
and plant zonal geraniums. Not only did these accom- 
modating plants settle down to the position in the most 
cheerful way, but they actually kept on flowering un- 
interruptedly until Christmas Day. It was not until the 
keen frosts of the first week of 1908 that they finally 
went off duty. 

We really must keep a corner of our hearts open for 
the brave old zonal. We need no more refuse to use 
it because it enslaved some silly people in years gone 
by than we need decline to admit any value in alcoholic 
drinks because some people take too much of them. If 
some one objects that the plant gives a great deal of 
trouble the reply is made : Only if you propagate it, and 
winter it. That is where the mistake is made. Young 
zonal geraniums are a nuisance in spring, because they 
take up a great deal of room under glass, and are too 
tender to be planted out before the middle of May. 
They are soft and sappy. But why worry over raising 
a stock at all, when you can buy cartloads at any florist's 
nearly as cheaply as you can buy faggots ? As the 
plants get older, and more woody, they get hardier, and 
will stand several degrees of frost. You can cut back 
these old plants, top and roots alike, in autumn, if you 
wish, winter them in a cellar, and plant them out again. 
They are rather " leggy," but that does not matter much, 
because you can plant them in a sloping position. Paul 
Crampel is one of the best of the zonals ; its colour 
is a rich shade of crimson, reminding one of the old 
Henry Jacoby, which it has superseded. 

Ivy-Leaved Geraniums. — Plenty of people tolerate 
ivy-leaved geraniums who will not hear of zonals. They 
are certainly very bright plants, and they come in for a 



204 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

variety of purposes, such as for filling vases and window- 
boxes, and covering banks. If you find yourself with an 
area of garden to cover in summer, and you have no 
reserve of asters, buy some strong plants of good ivy- 
leaved geraniums like Madame Crousse, Isadore F^ral, 
and La Florifere (varieties of pronounced trailing habit), 
peg the shoots down as they grow, and your ground will 
soon be covered. Varieties with fine flowers, suitable for 
vases or pots, are Achievement, salmon-pink ; Jeanne 
d'Arc, white, shaded with lavender ; Ryecroft Surprise, 
salmon-pink ; Souvenir de Charles Turner, deep pink ; 
and Masterpiece, deep crimson. The last is single, the 
others are double. 

Ten-week Stocks, — These old-time flowers will 
never lose their hold on flower lovers ; their intrinsic 
merits are too strong. A good "strain" will yield a 
large proportion of double flowers, and a considerable 
range of colours, all dowered with the charm of deH- 
cious perfume. Puzzled folk often wonder how it is 
that seedsmen contrive to get seventy or eighty per cent, 
of their stocks double, considering that they have to 
save all their seed from single flowers. Well, there are 
singles and singles. Some single stocks will yield no- 
thing but single-producing seed ; other single stocks will 
yield nearly all double-producing seed. You may ask 
the florist to tell you how he distinguishes between the 
two if you like, but do not be surprised if he suddenly 
grows evasive, and changes the subject to turbine 
engines. It is a way he has. Culture has not much, 
if anything, to do with doubleness ; it is a question of 
" strain." That is why it is important to buy stocks from 
a seedsman, and not from the nearest hay-merchant. 

The ten-week stocks have been raised from an annual 
form of the Brompton stock, called Matthiola incana 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 205 

annua. The Brompton (incana) is a biennial, and so is 
the Queen, which is supposed to be a form of the 
Brompton. The intermediate stock (of which the East 
Lothian and the Emperor are forms) is generally kept 
for pot culture, being sown in spring to flower in late 
summer and autumn, and in summer to flower the fol- 
lowing spring. The night-scented stock, a little weedy, 
single form, is also a Matthiola {bicornis) and, like the 
ten-week stock, is an annual. It is of no beauty, but its 
perfume at night is powerful and delicious. 

The ten-week stocks have received the most attention 
from florists, and there are now many colours. One 
can buy both stocks and China asters either in mixture 
or in collections of from six to twelve separate colours. 
If one is going to make beds of them, one should buy 
collections, because the different colours can be grown 
separately, and utilised at will. The majority of flower 
lovers have a special liking for white ten-weeks. There 
is one called Princess Alice, a large-flowered, branching 
variety, which is particularly beautiful. A charming 
primrose variety is known as Princess May. It is dwarf, 
but with large flowers, and is wallflower-leaved. Both 
of these sweet ladies ought to be bought separately. 
Mixtures can be had of two well-defined strains, the 
Dwarf German and the Giant Perfection. In both, the 
flowers are large, but one is much lower in growth than 
the other, and more suitable for small gardens. 

The ten-week stocks come from seed as readily as 
asters, and may be treated in the same way. The black 
fly does not worry them, and as a matter of fact they 
give no trouble, only requiring plenty of room, and 
abundance of air, to thrive. Damping off, which causes 
heavy losses among seedlings every year, is entirely due 
to excessive watering and insufficient air. In view of 



2o6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the fact that there is always a certain percentage of 
singles in a bed of stocks, which cannot be distinguished 
from the doubles in the early stages, it is wise to plant 
fairly close — about nine inches apart — so that if any 
singles show later they can be drawn out without leaving 
the bed too bare. 

Pansies. — We cannot help loving this little flower, 
so richly painted, and so sweet. Yet we cannot utilise 
it in any decorative sense, like we can paeonies and 
begonias. If there is one flower which it is pardonable 
to specialise — to grow in a quiet, cool bed, and visit 
often for the sake of the pleasure derivable from study- 
ing the beautiful markings of the blooms — it is the little 
pansy. Perhaps the flower has declined somewhat in 
popular favour these later years, but it is still supreme 
with the celebrated Scottish florists. They have many 
scores of varieties, with flowers three to four inches 
across, beautifully moulded, and painted with nearly all 
the colours of the kaleidoscope. They have two great 
sections, called respectively Show and Fancy. The 
latter gives the finest and the most richly- coloured 
flowers. There is a strain called Odier's Blotched, of 
which -one can buy seed, that gives very fine flowers. 
The Peacock is also a fine and beautiful pansy, which 
comes true from seed. Pansies love a cool, but not 
heavily shaded, place, and a deep, moist, holding soil. 
They can be grown well in sandy soil if abundance of 
cow manure is added, and if water and liquid manure, 
with a mulching of short manure or cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse over the surface, are provided in dry weather. 
They are easily propagated by cuttings in autumn. 

Violas. — If the pansies have declined as garden 
flowers, it is probably because their sisters, the violas, 
have advanced. There is not room for both in every 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 207 

garden, and thousands of people grow violas in pre- 
ference to pansies because they are better for beds and 
borders. The pansies have derived from the viola, and 
excel their parent in beauty of bloom, but they are weak 
and straggling growers, whereas the violas are compact 
and tufty. The pansy is the specialist's flower ; the 
viola is everybody's flower. The former sells in dozens, 
the latter in thousands. Trade florists did most of the 
work of improving the viola as a garden flower during 
the last fifteen years of the nineteenth century ; conse- 
quently, although the plant is a very old one botanically 
considered, it is quite a modern one from the garden 
point of view. It is valuable for carpeting the ground 
under tall plants. Beds of standard roses, for example, 
are relieved of their bareness by violas, and are rendered 
bright and interesting. It is scarcely necessary to say that 
they also make beautiful edgings to beds and borders. Al- 
though they bloom so freely as to cover themselves with 
flowers, they do not readily wear away if the soil is well 
enriched, and is kept moist by watering and mulching. 
Constant cutting also tends to keep them in bloom. 
Occasionally the whole of the flowers may be clipped 
off, like those of sweet peas, to give them a rest, and a 
chance of making fresh growth, which will very soon 
come into bloom in its turn. Archie Grant, violet blue ; 
Rolph, bright blue ; Primrose Dame, yellow ; Goldfinch, 
blue and yellow; J. B. Riding, mauve ; Wm. Neil, lilac; 
Councillor Waters, crimson ; Countess of Hopetoun, 
white ; and Bronze Prince, bronze, are good sorts. 
Propagate by cuttings in autumn. 

Indian Pinks. — Like Brompton stocks, foxgloves, 
Canterbury bells, and sweet-williams these are biennials, 
and in the ordinary way they should be sown in the 
early summer of one year to bloom the next. But the 



2o8 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

ordinary way is not the best way. The best way is to 
treat them as annuals — that is, to sow them and flower 
them the same year, then get rid of them, as though they 
were godetias, or clarkias. The trouble is considerably 
less, and the result in bloom is the same, except that it 
may come a little later. Sixpence will give you a good 
bed of Indian pinks, and it will not be in the least like 
any other bed in the garden. If a little too flat for your 
taste dot a few gaillardias in it. These are great brown 
and orange flowers, and they make a quaint and in- 
teresting association when put among pinks. The kind 
of Indian pink known as Heddewig's {diantJius chinensis 
Heddewigii) is perhaps the best to grow. To get flowers 
early sow in a warm greenhouse in February, and keep 
the seedlings near the glass, then harden them in a 
frame, and plant them out early in May. Later bloom 
can be got by sowing in a frame in March, 

The Lace Flower. — There is a tendency nowadays 
to arrange cut flowers with their own foliage, and con- 
sequently fern and asparagus are not so commonly used 
as they were once upon a time. But many people think 
that a buttonhole rose is set off better by a bit of maiden- 
hair than by one of its own leaves. And they think that 
a bunch of cut sweet peas looks better if sprays of the 
lace flower {gypsophila paniculatd) are mixed in with it 
than if it is arranged with its own foliage. The writer 
can hardly subscribe to this with any enthusiasm, but 
he is free to admit that if anything could set off sweet 
peas better than sweet pea leafage it would be gypsophila. 
But really the plant is worth growing for itself. In 
good soil it makes a large, fleecy, gauzy bush, and looks 
beautiful in a border. A hardy perennial, it nevertheless 
blooms the same year as sown if put in early — treated, 
in fact, like the Indian pink. 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 209 

Honesty.— We hear much of the honesty {lunaria 
biennis) for winter decoration, its white, transparent 
seed pods looking well in vases, either alone or mixed 
with the scarlet berries or orange calyces of the winter 
cherries {solanum capsicastrum and Physalis Francketii). 
But the plant is well worth growing for its own sake, 
especially in the wild garden, where it will seed itself, 
and come up strongly year after year. It makes a 
beautiful bush, and covers itself with bright red flowers 
in late spring. Rabbits do not seem to touch it, anyway 
it flourished with the writer in an unwired portion of a 
garden much frequented by these hungry animals. The 
soil was stiff, cool clay, and the honesty enjoyed it. It 
liked shade too, without doubt, because it came much 
more strongly and persistently among the trees than in 
the unshaded parts of the garden. Remember that 
honesty can be grown from seed, which is very cheap, 
as readily as sweet-williams. 

Marigolds. — Are these old favourites as popular as 
they used to be, or have they declined a Httle, like the 
verbenas and the pansies ? The writer is inclined to 
think that they have lost ground somewhat in the South, 
but have held their own in the North. The Scottish 
florists are tenacious fellows. There is a lot of the tough 
old covenanting spirit left in them. They are faithful to 
their old traditions and their old flowers. It wants a 
little tenacity, one would think, to cling to so garish a 
flower as the African marigold, the orange - coloured 
variety in particular. It simply stares you out of coun- 
tenance — gives you eyeache and headache. The lemon- 
coloured is not quite so aggressive, as the tone is softer. 
The French mangolds are a different order altogether. 
The flowers are much smaller, and the colouring is not 
so vivid. The yellow ground is striped or barred with 

O 



2IO THE PERFECT GARDEN 

brown. They are really pretty and refined flowers. 
Like the Africans, they thrive under the same treatment 
as stocks and asters. There is a very pretty little plant 
related to the marigolds called tagetes signata pumila. 
It is dwarf and bushy, and it clothes itself in small 
yellow blossoms, making very bright patches of cheerful 
colour. This little plant does well either in the border 
or on the rockwork. 

Mignonette. — There are now a considerable number 
of varieties of mignonette, and although there is none 
sweeter than the common {reseda odoratd), there are 
several which are brighter in colour. For instance, 
there is the red variety, Machet, and there is the yellow. 
New Golden Queen. The latter is a charming sort, very 
bright and sweet. The writer sowed some patches of it 
on a bank of rather poor limestone earth, and had 
delicious clumps. This strengthened his conviction that 
mignonette cares very little for rich soil, but is fond 
of chalk. On stiff, damp soils mortar rubbish is much 
better than manure. One gets finer spikes of bloom, 
and rich perfume, when it is used. 

Annual Phloxes. — The varieties of phlox drum- 
vtondi, with their beautiful flowers, are growing in 
favour, and quite taking the place of verbenas. The 
grandiflora strain is the best so far as size of bloom is 
concerned, and its only defect is that it is inclined to be 
straggly. In this it is no worse, of course, than the verbena 
itself, but it is not so easily pegged down. Fortunately 
it is possible to get a dwarf strain, giving almost as good 
a range of colours as WiO. grandifloruy although with rather 
smaller flowers. This is the nana compacta strain. Those 
who want to get the greatest amount of enjoyment out 
of annual phloxes should buy collections of six or twelve 
distinct. These facilitate colour grouping. Every flower 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 211 

gardener must take annual phloxes into account ; they 
are as good in their way as the perennials, and come 
readily from seed sown in frames in March, or outside in 
April. 

Petunias.— This plant may have suffered a little from 
the coldness with which all bedding plants are surveyed 
by the cultured flower lover, but if the pigeon-holes of 
seed-merchants were examined at the beginning of the 
seed season— say on New Year's Day— and again at the 
end of it— say on May Day — striking evidence would be 
given of the fact that the plant is still largely grown. 
Or if it is not largely grown, where goes the seed ? Do 
people buy it, with the intention of growing petunias, 
and then, recollecting themselves in time, surreptitiously 
throw it away ? Hardly that. Seeds are sown, plants 
are raised, and in thousands of gardens of no particular 
repute, but still gardens which afford pleasure to those 
who own them, the petunias flourish. Look, too, at the 
thousands of gorged boxes sold in the markets. The 
little plants are already in bloom. Like Dr. Chillip's 
baby, they are nearly all head, and they loll their flowers 
over the edges of the boxes as that interesting infant 
lolled its head over its nurse's shoulder. .One can buy 
seed of garden petunias in mixed or separate classes. 
The latter come practically true from seed, so that colour 
grouping may be practised if desired. One can get a 
pretty striped flower, the groundwork cherry-red, the 
flakes white ; a white self, a rose self, a pink self, and other 
cheerful colours. The large double fringed petunias are 
not suitable for the garden, and should be grown in pots. 
They are very useful plants for the unheated greenhouse, 
because they grow freely without skilled attention, and 
remain in flower a long time. The flowers of the best 
modern strains are of huge size, and heavily fringed. 



212 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

The bedding varieties need a little repression to keep 
them within bounds, as they are inclined to straggle. 
Rich soil is not to be favoured, because it increases the 
roving tendencies of the plant. Garden soil has to be 
very thin and poor to need manuring for petunias. We 
can raise our plants quite readily by sowing under glass 
in March, with gentle warmth ; or in a frame without 
artificial heat, in April ; and we can plant them out in 
May. 

Coloured Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Auric- 
ulas. — We have in these a glorious cousinship of Spring 
flowers. There are some plants which grow to a certain 
stage, bloom at a particular season, and die away ; but 
these lovely dwarflets follow no strict laws of develop- 
ment, Jloratson, and decay. Their main flowering season 
is, of course, the Spring, but if the weather is mild they 
bloom more or less the whole of the Autumn and Winter, 
without letting the grower suffer when the proper time 
arrives. Growing a little during all mild spells, they 
suspend motion during frosty weather ; and then, when 
April brings warmth of sun and invigorating showers, 
they start in real earnest, and spread rapidly until the 
end of May, flowering all the time as hard as they grow. 
The rapidity of development of the yellow primroses, in 
the cool clays of some of the Kentish woodlands, is such 
as to approach the incredible ; they spread almost as 
fast as mushrooms, and with cool soil in gardens the 
coloured varieties will do the same. We cannot make 
too much of these exquisite blossoms of spring. They 
are beautiful for making warm ground colour in beds of 
bulbs, beautiful for edgings, beautiful for the woodland. 
When their bloom is over they can be lifted if desired, 
shifted to a reserve plot, and kept there till autumn, then 
used again ; but they come so readily and quickly from 




A CLUMP OF Madonna Lilies (Lilium canuiuum) 




Double coloured Primroses. 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 213 

seed that there is no reason why fresh young stock 
should not be raised annually. They can be sown out 
of doors in early summer, and treated very much like 
wallflowers. 

Primroses and polyanthuses differ in the fact that the 
former bear one flower on a stem, and the latter several. 
The primroses have the largest flowers and the richest 
colours, but the polyanthuses are very beautiful, espe- 
cially, perhaps, the varieties with white grounds, and 
eyes of primrose, yellow, and orange. Seed of the lovely 
Munstead strain, developed by that gifted flower lover, 
Miss Gertrude Jekyll, is now procurable. Dean's cele- 
brated strains are difficult to get nowadays, as the grand 
old florist who raised them has passed away. Storrie's 
Scottish strains are very fine — none better, indeed. The 
writer has grown them, and proved their worth. Prim- 
roses, Polyanthuses, and Auriculas are all good alike. 
There is a fine dark blue primrose offered in the cata- 
logues which comes true from seed. It is a precious 
thing, and should be grown. 

Poppies. — We have glanced at these in our Colour 
chapter, but we may come to them again. Why, first 
of all, the continued nourishment of the delusion that 
poppies will not endure being transplanted ? Of course 
they will— at all events, in a cool soil. Perhaps if they 
were moved from a crowded seed-bed to a sun-scorched 
patch of impoverished, dried-out sand they would resent 
it ; what plant would not ? It is not always necessary 
to transplant poppies ; on the contrary, it is generally 
best to sow them where they are to bloom ; but when 
one has a small quantity of seed of a special strain or 
variety which one wants to make the most of, one likes 
to prepare a special bed for it, and give it particular 
attention, so as to get a high germinating percentage. 



214 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Then, if the plants are thinly grown they can be taken 
up separately, with moist soil clinging to their roots, 
and shifted to the positions in which they are desired to 
bloom. The Shirleys are very beautiful, and a drift of 
them forms a brilliant and shimmering sheet of colour, but 
they are not very lasting. A few selected doubles, from 
mixed seed of carnation -flowered or paeony-flowered, 
will be valuable. They throw up flower stems two feet 
long, and have large, brilliantly coloured flowers. One 
can buy seed of maroon, mauve, pink, scarlet, and white 
separately. Then there is the Mikado, white and pink, 
which is a good plant. It must be remembered, in favour 
of poppies, that the foliage alone is handsome. The 
poppies seed profusely, and sow themselves, so that it is 
possible to get too many of inferior sorts. These should 
be pulled out directly the flowers fade to prevent seed 
forming. The best plants can be marked, and the seeds 
allowed to ripen. All the annual poppies may be sown 
out of doors in spring, and will flourish with the same 
treatment as clarkias and the like. 

A Flower for Hot Banks. — A floral covering for 
a hot bank or border is not easily procured. The 
majority of plants like sunshine, but they find it too 
much for them unless they can get roots well down 
into a cool, moist stratum of soil. There is, however, 
a little plant, ihe. portulaca, which thrives best in roasting 
sunshine, and will even tolerate thin soil. It is true 
that it is wise to give it a little special attention, in the 
way of preparing fine soil, keeping it moist, and thin- 
ning, where the seedlings are coming crowded, in the 
early stages of growth ; but afterwards the plants will 
look after themselves. Nor is the portulaca a common- 
place plant. Though lowly, it is very beautiful. The 
colours are varied, brilliant, and sparkling. It covers 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 215 

the ground with a carpet of exquisite Httle flowers, 
which gHsten cheerfully in the sun, and win the heart 
of every grower. There are both single and double 
kinds, mixed seed of which can be bought in spring, 
and sown out of doors about the middle of April. 

Sweet Rocket. — There are several flowers grown 
in gardens under the popular name of "rockets." Thus 
there is the double yellow rocket, which is a form of 
barbarea vulgaris ; there is the rocket candytuft ; and 
there is the dyer's rocket, reseda luteola. But the old 
favourite which we call the " sweet rocket," a perennial 
plant, with purple, rose, or white flowers, borne on 
stems two or three feet high in summer, and fragrant 
in the evening, is known to botanists as hesperis matron- 
alts. This good old border rocket is often called the 
"dame's rocket," and sometimes the "damask violet." 
There is a double variety of it. It will grow in most 
places, and in most soils. We must not overlook it in 
the attention which we give to special things. If we 
have a border which we make a home for flowers grown 
for their individual interest rather than for their colour 
effect, we must make room for the sweet rocket in it. 
Here we shall have honesty, scabious, sweet sultan, 
love-in-a-mist (particularly the Miss Gertrude Jekyll 
variety), and many other quaint things, both annual 
and perennial. The rocket is easily raised from seed 
sown out of doors in early summer. 

Salpiglossis. — This beautiful and distinct flower has 
no popular name, and perhaps suffers thereby with the 
crowd, although the educated flower lover is hardly 
likely to pass it by because its name is somewhat for- 
midable. We have nothing else in the garden which 
gives us quite the form and colour of this exquisitely 
marked plant. The flowers are of the shape of a widely 



2i6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

expanded funnel, and from two to three inches across 
from tip to tip. The feature of the coloration is a 
series of metallic shades, veined or pencilled with gold. 
One may get a blue, a purple, or a crimson, all delicately 
lined with yellow. The salpiglossis is a graceful plant, 
its flower stems curving over. Light and loose, yet 
brilliantly coloured, it makes a charming "dot" plant 
for beds planted with a low, rather stiff groundwork, 
such as dwarf asters, violas, or begonias. It has a very 
quaint effect, too, as a cut flower, if arranged lightly 
in Benares ware. Let not the flower lover fear to try 
it, but let him sow it with his asters, his stocks, his 
petunias, and his annual phloxes in the spring. He 
will flower it in July or August. 

Sweet Scabious and Sweet Sultan. — The lover 
of perfumed flowers will never pass by either of these 
deliciously scented plants, although they are not dis- 
tinguished for great beauty. There is one beautiful 
scabious, the lovely blue perennial species caucasica, but 
this is not fragrant. The sweet varieties may be had 
in both tall and dwarf strains, the former growing about 
two feet high, and the latter one foot. They may be 
bought in mixed or separate colours. The most com- 
mon is purple ; a white, a pink, and a mauve, all sweet, 
can be got also. They come from seed as readily as 
nasturtiums if sown out of doors in spring. The sweet 
sultan has the look of a gigantic cornflower, except in 
colour, and, indeed, it belongs to the same genus as the 
cornflower — centaurea. One can get separate seeds of 
purple, white, and yellow varieties. The plants grow 
and flower freely when given the ordinary treatment 
of hardy annuals, and they should be grown largely, 
because they are sure to be in great demand for cutting, 
not merely because of their delightful perfume, but 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 217 

because they last so long in water. Quite different in 
odour, but equally pleasant, the scabious and the sultan 
are flowers for every garden. 

Verbenas. — Florists speak of the verbena as a dead 
flower. That is because people no longer specialise it, 
and pay high prices for new varieties sold under different 
names, and cultivate it in pots under glass. The writer 
is old enough to remember seeing a large house full of 
beautifully trained plants in a famous nursery, but he 
never expects to see it again. There are, however, at a 
moderate computation, twice as many verbenas grown 
now as there were in the days when it was a florist's pet. 
The difference is that they are seedlings, and grown out 
of doors (except in the early days of seedlinghood). 
The florists did the verbena a great disservice when 
they gave it the reputation of being a delicate, mildewy 
plant. It may have been mildewy under the conditions 
in which they grew it, but it is not so when raised from 
seed. Although a perennial, it wants treating like a 
snapdragon — sown in gentle heat in February, thinned, 
pricked off, hardened in a frame, and planted out in 
May. Plants thus treated will be in full bloom in July, 
and they will keep on growing and flowering for many 
weeks. One can buy mixed seed, or separate colours, 
such as purple, blue, scarlet, pink and white, and striped. 
Many of the dark flowers have a white eye. It is not 
wise to give too rich a soil, or the plants will straggle ; 
in any case it may be found necessary to peg them 
down. Seedsmen offer a very pretty and distinct ver- 
bena named venosa. It grows barely a foot high, and 
has a neat, compact habit, consequently it is often used 
for borders. The flowers are purplish red. It is a mis- 
take to winter verbenas, and propagate from cuttings. 
Fresh seedling plants ought to be raised every year. 



2i8 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Violets. — The frame culture of violets gives us 
flowers of the fine florist's varieties, such as Princess 
of Wales, Czar, La France, Comte de Brazza, Marie 
Louise, and Neapolitan, during mild weather from 
Autumn to Spring ; but perhaps we shall naturalise a 
few of the sweet old common violet. There is none 
more fragrant. When it gets settled down, it spreads 
every year. It likes shade, of course, and a cool soil, 
not dry, sunny spots. The florist's violets give finer 
flowers than the native, and they are very sweet, none 
more so than the huge single Princess of Wales, and the 
fine double Marie Louise. When growing a collection of 
violets one finds that some varieties throw out runners, 
and others tufty, upright side shoots. The former are 
best propagated by the runners, like strawberries, the 
latter by division. In both cases the propagation may 
be effected in Spring, and the resulting plants put 
into a piece of deep, cool, well-manured soil. They 
will grow out, and make fine clumps for lifting and 
putting into nine inches of rich, loamy soil, spread 
over thirty inches of leaves and manure, in a frame in 
October. 

Wallflowers. — Our seedsmen have given us some 
splendid strains of the fragrant wallflower. In addition 
to the well-known yellow, Belvoir Castle, the Blood Red, 
and the brown Harbinger, we can get chestnut, maroon, 
purple, ruby, chamois, lemon, apricot, ivory, and crim- 
son, all in separate packets. These are all single. In 
addition there is the double German, a fine plant, 
with flowers like great stocks, and very sweet ; and the 
annual, a brown-coloured, perfumed flower that blooms 
in summer from spring-sown seed. The " Old Castle " 
wallflower will thrive on dry banks and walls. The 
wallflowers are such splendid plants for spring garden- 



'1 



SOME SPECIAL FLOWERS 219 

ing, and so useful for cutting, that it is worth while to 
give them special treatment, sowing them thinly in May, 
and transplanting them from the seed-bed to a nursery 
plot, so that they may strengthen and harden throughout 
the summer, and be in good condition for planting out 
in October. They must be protected from rabbits, or 
they will be eaten out. 



CHAPTER XI 

GARDEN AUXILIARIES 

The maker of a new garden has many uncomfortable 
moments. The work he is doing seems satisfactory 
enough until he visits the finished gardens of friends, 
and then he has a sense of " rawness " when he sees his 
own again. The trees he has put in seem to be mere 
sticks ; the shrubs, weeds ; the rockeries, roadside stone- 
heaps. Everything appears to be crude and bare. 
There is a great feeling of emptiness. The place seems 
to be exposed to every eye. 

Can anything be done to remedy this ? Are there 
any temporary features which can be pressed into ser- 
vice ? Can we construct some kind of screen to serve 
until the trees and shrubs are thick enough to fulfil their 
purpose ? And can we do anything which will help to 
relieve the bareness of the house until such time as the 
creepers that we have planted cover it ? These are 
practical questions, bearing on real difficulties, and we 
may well devote a little consideration to them. 

Trellis-work. — The suburban gardener finds much 
value in expanding trellis-work. Party walls and fences 
are rarely high enough to give him the seclusion that he 
loves, and inasmuch as they are the property of landlord 
or neighbour, they cannot be reconstructed. But there 
is rarely any objection to a tenant adding to them if 
he thinks fit to do so. He does not, as a rule, care to 



GARDEN AUXILIARIES 221 

spend much ; and he does not want anything very sub- 
stantial. He wants something which costs very Httle, 
and which will serve as a support for creepers, and a 
little more. Expanding trellis-work answers his require- 
ments admirably. In the first place, the cost is small. 
Pieces which will pull out to a length of twelve feet, 
with a height of five feet, and a " mesh " of about four 
inches, cost about five shillings each, unpainted. The 
twelve feet can be extended to eighteen or more by 
pulling the trellis farther out ; it merely means reducing 
the height and enlarging the " mesh." 

Let us suppose that the garden-maker has a certain 
stretch of exposed garden which he does not wish to 
shut in with a permanent wall or fence, but to block 
with trees and shrubs. He plants, but, unable to put in 
very large specimens on account of cost, or unwilling 
to run the risk of them in consequence of having a 
dry site and poor soil, becomes impatient when he 
considers how long he will have to wait before he 
gets his screen sufficiently thick and high. Expand- 
ing trellis-work is the thing for him. If it is neatly 
erected, finished off with a top rail, painted green or 
oak colour, and at once planted with quick-growing 
things, it will not look obtrusive, and will make a very 
serviceable screen. 

Some persons object to trellis -work for country 
gardens, on the ground that it is not natural enough. 
Well, a wall is not " natural," or a fence either. So long 
as trellis-work is not stuck up all over the garden, and 
left bare, it is not objectionable. The writer has used it 
extensively within certain hmits. It has been put into 
a particular position to serve a special purpose, and 
directly that has been accomplished it has been put 
somewhere else. A beautiful screen can be formed in 



222 THE PERFFXT GARDEN 

a few weeks by putting up trellis- work, and planting 
strong sweet peas at the base. 

A "cosy corner" can be formed in a garden in the 
same way as a boundary. Perhaps the owner wants to 
form a little special enclosure not far from the house — 
a pretty, flowery, grassy spot where tea can be taken in 
fine weather, and where spreading garden-chairs afford 
the necessary convenience for quiet, comfortable read- 
ing. Again trellis -work comes in. It must not be 
merely put up, of course, and left. To do that means 
to make a yard. There must be a border along it, 
which can be filled with quick-growing plants ; it then 
becomes a garden. Ivy and Virginian creeper will 
ramble along trellis-work. Flowering shrubs, such as 
the beautiful yellow kerria Japonica, can be planted 
against it. Canary creeper, nasturtiums, and convolvu- 
luses can be trained along it. You may cover it, if you 
like, with scarlet runners. Decidedly trellis-work is 
useful. 

Flower Tubs. — Tubs are not, as a rule, beautiful 
objects, however serviceable under water pipes, but they 
can be made use of in new gardens. The writer keeps 
his paraffin-oil casks instead of returning them and re- 
ceiving the allowance on them from the dealer, and 
has them sawn in halves, burnt out with shavings, and 
painted green. When put in position and filled with 
soil (you must take the soil to the tub, not the tub to the 
soil, because of the weight in shifting back again) they 
become very useful receptacles for free-growing, free- 
blooming plants like zonal and ivy-leaved geraniums and 
marguerites. There are many places in new gardens, 
and near new houses, where these flower tubs would be 
serviceable, detracting from the rawness of bare ground 
and new masonry. For instance, one could be stood 



GARDEN AUXILIARIES 223 

at each side of the top of a flight of steps. A pair 
might be stood near the entrance of the house. A 
few pieces of rock can be put round the base to take 
off the stiffness, or they may be covered with virgin 
cork. 

Stone Vases. — Stone vases cannot be dotted about 
a garden indiscriminately, but they can be used at the 
top of flights of steps or beside porches. Plants of 
loose, graceful habit are desirable for them. Fuchsias 
and marguerites are excellent. For hanging down 
there are ivy-leaved geraniums, and trop^eolums of the 
lobbianuni class. 

Window Boxes. — There are greater possibilities in 
window boxes than most folk wot of. Of course, a 
flower lover of artistic tastes would rather have his 
house bare than decorated with vivid green boxes filled 
with furious red and frantic yellow flowers. The very 
sight of them on other people's houses makes him want 
to order up a 4.7 gun, and blow the whole place into 
fragments. But harmonies in green, red, and yellow 
are no more necessary to window boxes than to borders. 
We can have the daintiest of boxes and the daintiest of 
flowers if we only like to take the trouble. 

Facing a plain deal box with strips of virgin cork is 
the window gardener's first device for imparting a rustic 
appearance. Well, this will be better than nothing. You 
buy the cork through the seedsman, or through the firm 
which advertises horticultural sundries in the gardening 
papers, and you simply attach it to the front of the box 
with short nails. 

Another plan is to tack a line of maple twigs all 
round the edges of the box, and a second line three 
inches within it, put short diagonal pieces in the space 
between, and fasten an inverted acorn cup in each 



224 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

angle. A central design in the form of a diamond, 
formed of maple twigs, and with inverted acorn cups 
at each point, will complete it. 

Small larch branches can be used to face the front 
of a box. They need not be all of the same length, 
thus forming a straight line, but may form a series of 
extensions from the side to the centre. 

Another plan is to panel the front of a box with 
handsome tiles. An economical amateur made a cheap 
variant on this by substituting neat pieces of linoleum 
for the tiles — a " drollery " that escaped discovery for 
a long time, inasmuch as the "tiles" were partly hidden 
by the plants. 

The exact size of a window box may turn upon two 
things — (i) the size of the sill, (2) whether a fixture or 
to be moved. With a large sill and a permanent hxture 
a window-box may be made as large as you like. In the 
case of a small sill, or of a box which has to be moved, 
a size of thirty inches long, by nine inches wide and 
deep, will probably be large enough. It may be made 
of three-quarter-inch deal. A strip should be fastened 
to the bottom at each end, in order to keep it from con- 
tact with the sill. Holes will be necessary to permit of 
the escape of superfluous water, as if moisture becomes 
stagnant in the box the plants will not thrive. About 
a dozen should be made in the bottom of a box of the 
size named, and they are easily bored through with a 
red-hot kitchen poker, especially if the way is paved 
with a gimlet. 

If desired, a skeleton box can be made. This con- 
sists of two ends the same width as the sill, attached to 
the house wall, and connected by top and bottom strips. 
There are no sides, and there is no bottom. The front 
may be decorated with virgin cork, or tiles, or anything 



GARDEN AUXILIARIES 225 

else that the owner fancies. The "skeleton" box really 
serves the purpose of a guard for plants in pots, which 
are stood on the sill between the frame and the window 
sash. An obvious advantage of pot over box plants is 
that they can be changed frequently if desired. The 
flower lover is not tied to one or two arrangements. 

If it is desired to impart irregularity of outline to an 
ordinary window box, the end can be gained by forming 
an arch with a piece of bamboo, the points of which are 
pressed into the soil at the ends of the box after the 
bamboo has been bent into a semicircle. Canary 
creeper or some other pretty plant can be trained over 
the arch. Or the arch can be made with a narrow piece 
of galvanised wire netting. A box which the writer 
once saw had this netting-arch feature, combined with 
a somewhat unusual method of ornamenting the front 
of the box. It was covered with virgin cork, out of 
which pockets had been formed large enough to hold 
small flower-pots. The pockets were furnished with 
small bulbs in spring, and with trailing plants like 
creeping jenny, musk, and tradescantia in summer. 

The window box is generally only a summer orna- 
ment. The dwelling is treated as though it were a 
houseboat. This should not be. The box can be filled 
with neat little conifers, such as cypresses, for the 
winter; or it can be planted with bulbs, such as 
daffodils, tulips, snowdrops, and scillas, in autumn, 
for spring blooming. All of these can be taken out 
and planted in a spare corner of the garden in spring. 
For summer bloom we ought to draw on free, graceful, 
informal plants like fuchsias, marguerites, ivy-leaved 
geraniums, petunias, and tuberous begonias, but we 
ought not to mix all these together in one box, or it 
will be overcrowded. Fuchsias alternated with mar- 

P 



226 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

guerites, with a front of violas, and scarlet tropaeolums 
dotted between the latter to droop over the front, form 
a very pleasing combination. And white marguerites, 
interspersed with the tall spikes of the cheap scarlet 
gladiolus brenchleyensis, look extremely well. In the 
case of a shaded box the plants chiefly utilised might 
be begonias and monkey flowers {minmluses), with a 
trailing front of creeping jenny or tradescantia. Asters 
and stocks may also be grown in window boxes if 

desired. 

Covering House Walls Quickly. — Just as the 
garden-maker likes to iiU his beds and borders quickly, 
so he likes to see his house covered with foliage and 
flowers with the least possible delay. Often he asks 
too much; he wants the walls clothed immediately, 
and he wants them covered with a small-leaved ivy or 
with wistaria. In a contest amongst creepers for slow- 
ness of growth, one of these two plants would surely 
win. They might very well be called "crawlers" as 
well as creepers. They move with exasperating delibera- 
tion. Nor will the best of manure and soil stimulate 
them beyond a certain point. It is their nature to grow 
slowly, and they do it. 

It really comes to this : if we want our walls clothed 
rapidly we must be prepared to make concessions as 
regards plants. We must forego small -leaved ivies 
altogether, because the best of them move slowly ; but 
if an ivy of some sort is regarded as indispensable, a 
relatively strong and quick grower like the Irish must 
be chosen. This is a cheap kind, and nurserymen stock 
vigorous plants of 'it in pots, with four or five shoots 
ranging from three to six feet long, twined round a 
stake. Often the roots are bound so tightly round 
the pot that it is impossible to get the plants out, fl 



GARDEN AUXILIARIES 227 

and then the pots are simply smashed round the roots. 
Plants like these will cover a wall as quickly as any ivy 
can be expected to do. 

Then there is the Virginian creeper. In our chapter 
on Climbers we saw that Veitch's variety, known as 
anipelopsis veitchii, and also as vitis inconstans, is a much 
better plant than the common. It does not grow so 
vigorously, it is true, but it moves quickly in rich, moist 
soil. Moreover, it is a true " climber." It climbs almost 
as a steeplejack climbs. It " ladders " the wall as it goes, 
and the way in which it does this is both interesting and 
beautiful. Threads are thrown from the stems, the tips 
of which exude a kind of vegetable concrete, which 
attaches them so securely to the wall that they cannot 
be got away without breaking them by main force. 
Neat and close in growth, and very bright when it 
changes colour in autumn, Veitch's virginian creeper 
presents claims that cannot be passed over lightly. 

The lower part of the walls can be covered quickly 
(in a few weeks, in fact) by attaching wooden or wire 
trellis-work and training quick-growing flowering plants, 
such as tropaeolums, ivy-leaved geraniums, convolvuluses, 
and sweet peas, to it. If permanent plants were pre- 
ferred, the white clematis montana, the double yellow 
kerria japonicay or one of the selected roses, honey- 
suckles, or jasmines named in a previous chapter could 
be planted. 



CHAPTER XII 

GARDEN ENEMIES 

Beginners are generally optimistic. Does any golf- 
novice doubt that, in the course of half-a-dozen lessons 
from a kind and courteous professional (who will be lost 
in wonder at his pupil's phenomenal progress), he will be 
able to drive a three-hundred-yard ball, lay approaches 
dead from any position, and hole out every time from 
any part of the green, whether stymied or not ? 

Things have a happy way of going smoothly in our 
reflections on a new pastime. We look at it through 
rose-coloured glasses. Perhaps this is particularly the 
case with gardening. Nature does so much to help. 
We sow a few seeds, and behold ! we get beautiful and 
fragrant flowers. What could be more delightful ? 

Yes, Nature is very good in many ways, but she is 
also a little trying. She not only thoughtfully seconds 
our efforts to grow plants, but she also sends along 
grubs, flies, and fungi to attack them. This is not so 
well, and we begin to doubt w^hether she is so entirely 
beneficent after all. Presently, when the onslaught of the 
grubs, flies, and fungi becomes so deadly as to counter- 
balance our efforts, we begin to feel seriously aggrieved 
and to wonder what it all means. 

What it really does mean is a very big and absorbing 
question, much too large to be discussed in the present 
work. We can only consider a few practical features. 

228 



GARDEN ENEMIES 229 

In the first place let us face the fact that, however well 
we garden, we shall have enemies to fight. The good 
gardener has fewer enemies than the bad, but no gar- 
dener ever escapes them altogether. It seems cruel to 
drag this skeleton to light. It would be so much easier 
and pleasanter to keep it in the cupboard, and persist in 
looking on gardening as all colour, and perfume, and 
sunshine. But we aspire to be practical, to deal with 
facts, to see things as they are. 

To begin with, then, we recognise that we have 
enemies. Let us go a step further, and learn that they 
come in various ways — through the soil, through the 
air, perhaps with the plants and seeds which we buy. 
We cannot shut them out. We can fence against cattle, 
but not against caterpillars. Some of them, such as 
species of green fly (aphis), attack a great many different 
kinds of plants. Others concentrate on one particular 
plant. One enemy operates at the root, a second on the 
leaf, a third in the stem, a fourth on the flower. 

We cannot deal with all the enemies of plants in a 
chapter, but we can pass a few of the most troublesome 
of them in review. 

Slugs and Snails. — The slug is a terrible sinner, 
attacking a great many plants. While he has a special 
partiality for a tender young phlox or lettuce, he is also 
addicted to eating the young growths of herbaceous and 
rock plants. He will sally out when your finest iris is 
on the point of developing, eat the flower stem through 
near the base, and bring the whole structure to the ground 
in one deplorable ruin. The gentlest of human beings, 
if a gardener, loathes slugs. There are some gardens 
which are completely overrun with slugs and snails, 
generally old places, with a good deal of ivy or other 
cover. One way of reducing their numbers is to get 



230 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

some lime fresh from a kiln, slack it with a httle water, 
and dust it over the garden at night. (Operations against 
slugs must always be conducted at night, because the 
enemy is nocturnal in his habits.) This dusting must be 
repeated on other nights. A slug can exude slime, and 
throw off a caustic coating in time to save himself, but 
he cannot do so at frequent intervals. Another plan is to 
use lime water. This is made by putting a lump of lime 
about as big as a cocoanut in a pail of water, and letting 
it stand a few hours, then using the liquid with the lime 
in solution. Lime does not hurt plants, and it harasses, 
worries, and kills slugs. Another plan is to trap them 
with "grains " bought at a brewery, which may be placed 
in small heaps among plants which slugs are fond of, 
and examined at night by the aid of a lantern. All slugs 
captured can be dropped into a receptacle containing 
salt and water, where they will speedily shuffle off the 
mortal coil. Snails are not to be cleared off by lime 
dressings, and really there is no " short cut " with them. 
Hand picking is the best remedy. The "gleanings" can 
be disposed of by dropping them into brine. 

Birds. — Public opinion is so sensitive on the score 
of birds that one hardly dare mention them in a 
chapter on enemies. Let the bird-loving reader stifle 
his rising wrath. The writer is himself a bird lover, and 
has not the remotest idea of advocating indiscriminate 
destruction. The gardener who has watched a thrush 
cracking a snail's shell on a stone, seen starlings feeding 
on crane flies, and observed tits dexterously picking off 
aphides, is not going to conduct a blind vendetta against 
birds. But thrush and blackbird, finch and sparrow, 
are very trying at times. They are enemies of various 
seedlings, peas, and fruit. The gardener who suffers 
from them need not fly to a gun. Tanned fish netting is 



GARDEN ENEMIES 231 

much more to the point. By spreading it over the crops 
the birds are kept away, without the disadvantage of their 
services being lost as snail and fly consumers. In the 
case of crops which cannot be netted, scares must be 
resorted to. 

Green Fly (Aphis). — The green fly attacks many 
different kinds of plants, varying as widely as tulips, 
brussels sprouts, cinerarias, and roses. Its wide taste?, 
and its fecundity, would make it the most dangerous of 
garden enemies if it were not very easy to kill. For- 
tunately it has no great tenacity of life. Hot water, with 
an ounce of ordinary washing soda dissolved in each 
gallon, will destroy it. The temperature may be 150° — 
hot enough to demand a little protection for the hand 
when a syringe is used. Another remedy is to boil a 
pint of soft soap in a quart of soft water, stir in half a 
pint of paraffin oil, then turn the mixture into a tub 
containing five gallons of water, and work all up together 
by repeatedly filling a syringe from, and emptying it 
into, the tub. This may be syringed on to affected 
plants in the evening. A third remedy is to soak a hand- 
ful of quassia chips in a gallon of water for a few hours, 
and syringe the bitter liquid on. In the case of plant 
houses it is wise to " vaporise " them about every three 
weeks during the growing season, whether insects are 
noticed or not. Richards's and West's vaporisers are 
very good in keeping houses free from insects. 

Black Fly. — This aphis is very troublesome on 
asters, broad beans, peaches, and cherries. It can be 
kept under by using the soft soap and paraffin oil spray 
recommended in the preceding paragraph. 

Red Spider. — This is a mite which attacks various 
crops, such as grape vines, gooseberries, scarlet runners, 
and violets. It is encouraged by very dry conditions. 



232 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Proper watering and vigorous syringing tend to keep 
it in subjection. The soft soap and paraffin oil wash, 
fortified by a handful of flowers of sulphur to the gallon, 
and applied hot, will destroy red spider. 

WiREWORMS AND Leatherjackets, — These pests 
are nearly always troublesome in land that has been 
under pasture. They have fed on the roots of the grass, 
and when the turf is removed they remain in the soil, 
desperately hungry, and willing to fasten on to almost 
any crop. Where feasible the ground may be compressed 
with a heavy roller. " Vaporite," a proprietary prepara- 
tion manufactured by Strawsons, 71 A Queen Victoria 
Street, London, E.G., may be forked in. In the case of 
special plants, such as choice carnations, baits of potato 
or carrot should be embedded near them to draw off 
the pests. The cockchafer grub may be attacked in the 
same way. 

Rose Caterpillar. — A small grub attacks roses in 
late spring. One observes that some of the leaves are 
curled up, and on untwisting them finds the caterpillar. 
Crushing all curled leaves is the best remedy. 

Earwigs are dealt with in connection with dahlias. 
See the General Index for the page reference. 

Ants are troublesome, less for the actual damage that 
they do than for the fact that they nurse aphides. If a 
nest can be found, boiling water should be poured in. 
If not, they may be trapped with raw bones, or with a 
sponge smeared with treacle. 

Leaf-Mining Maggots attack various plants, but 
none worse than marguerites and celery. The plants can 
be preserved if the affected leaves are squeezed between 
finger and thumb at the first sign of attack, and sprayed 
with the soft soap and paraffin oil wash. 

Various Fungoid Pests.— The different fungi attack 



GARDEN ENEMIES 233 

many kinds of crop, such as rose, carnation, hollyhock, 
chrysanthemum, sweet and culinary peas, potatoes, and 
fruit trees. To deal with them all fully would fill a large 
volume. Let it suffice to mention three remedies. The 
first is dry flowers of sulphur, which may be dusted on 
plants attacked by mildew. The second is sulphide of 
potassium (liver of sulphur), of which an ounce may 
be dissolved in three gallons of water. The third is 
Bordeaux mixture, made by dissolving four ounces of 
sulphate of copper (bluestone) in a little water in a 
wooden vessel, slacking the same quantity of lime in 
another vessel, and stirring the two together in a tub 
containing two and a half gallons of water. The Bor- 
deaux mixture may be tried in all cases of fungoid attack, 
spraying it on in as dewy a state as possible, so that it 
may adhere. If it should not prove effectual after a 
second application has been made the other wash could 
be tried. 

In the case of all enemies, whether insect or fungoid, 
success turns upon attacking them directly they put in 
an appearance. What may be an easy task at the early 
stage of an attack becomes difficult or impossible at a 
later one. 



PART III 

GLASS HOUSES 



CHAPTER I 

PLANT HOUSES 

The prudent flower lover will never allow himself to 
fall under the tyranny of glass houses, still less under 
that most dangerous form, the conservatory. Modern 
flower-gardening tends to become more and more inde- 
pendent of glass, and some of the most beautiful flower 
gardens in the country have not so much as a single 
square, even in the form of a frame. 

So far from agreeing that glass can be dispensed 
with for small places, but must be regarded as essential 
for large ones, the writer would take the view that it is 
in small establishments, where the area of ground is so 
limited as to afford very little scope for outdoor work, 
that glass houses meet the greatest want. They are 
certainly not necessary to successful gardening in places 
where there is a good deal of ground, unless forced 
grapes, peaches, strawberries, melons, flowers, and 
vegetables are wanted. 

Let us sum it up in this way : Glass is not indis- 
pensable to flower-gardening, nor to fruit and vegetable 
production, unless we wish to grow tender plants, or to 
have crops out of their seasons. Does the reader want 
to have roses at Christmas, peaches in May, and grapes 
in July, all of his own growing ? Does he want to have 
his dinner-table decorated with handsome foliage plants 
and flowers every day of the year ? Does he want to 

837 



238 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

fill his beds and borders with home-grown zonal ger- 
aniums ? Does he want to carry off first prize for 
Japanese chrysanthemums at the local show in Novem- 
ber ? Does he want gardenias, stephanotises, bouvardias, 
and other fragrant but tender favourites ? If the answer 
to these questions is in the affirmative, and no difficulty 
about means arises, then glass houses shall be had. 

We might summarise the different types of glass 
house as follows : — 

(i) The Conservatory. — A house for preserving and 
displaying plants. Theoretically, the plants are grown 
in other houses until they arrive at the stage when they 
are most ornamental, and are then conveyed to the 
conservatory. The temperature of the structure must 
depend on the class of plant grown — whether green- 
house, intermediate, or stove. 

(2) The Greenhouse. — A structure in which the winter 
temperature ranges from 40° to 50°. It is a house for 
growing plants in. 

(3) The Intermediate House. — The temperature of this 
structure ranges from 50° to 60° in winter. 

(4) The Stove. — What gardeners call the stove is 
what ordinary folk would call the hothouse. The winter 
temperature ranges from 60° to 70°. 

It may be helpful to readers, as illustrative of the 
type of plant grown in the different houses, if the prin- 
cipal kinds are grouped. Those marked {0) are orchids. 
Those marked {b) are bulbs. 

Greenhouse. /titer mediate. Stove. 

abutilon. amaryllis. allamanda. 

acacia. anthurium. caladium. 

arum lily. begonia (winter). {o) calanthe. 

aspidistra. bougainvillea. cockscomb, 

azalea. bouvardia. clerodendron. 



PLANT HOUSES 



^6'. 



Greenhouse. 


Intermediate. 


Stove. 


balsam. 


carnation (tree and 


dipladenia. 


calceolaria. 


American). 


eucharis. 


camellia. 


cacti (most). 


gardenia. 


campanula. 


{o) cattleya. 


gesnera. 


canna. 


cestrum. 


hjemanthus. 


chrysanthemum. 


(<?) coelogyne. 


hibiscus. 


cineraria. 


{b) crinum. 


impatiens. 


clematis. 


croton. 


ipomaea (some). 


clivia. 


epacris. 


ixora. 


cobaea. 


exacum. 


jacobinia. 


coleus. 


heliotrope. 


jasmine (some). 


cyclamen. 


hoya. 


lily of the valley 


{o) cypripedium. 


justicia. 


(forced). 


cytisus. 


lapageria. 


maranta. 


{b) daffodils. 


{o) miltonia 


nepenthes. 


{o) dendrobium. 


rhododendron. 


pancratium. 


deutzia. 


rose. 


pandanus. 


dracaena. 


stephanotis. 


poinsettia. 


erica. 


thunbergia. 


(o) sophronitis. 


euphorbia. 




torenia. 


india-rubber plant. 






francoa. 






{h) freesia. 






fuchsia. 






geranium (zonal). 






gladiolus. 






gloxinia. 






helleborus (Christmas rose). 




{b) hyacinth. 






hydrangea. 






{b) ixia. 






(b) lachenalia. 






lilac. 






{b) lilium. 






{o) masdevallia. 






mignonette. 






musk. 






myrtle. 






{b) nerine. 






nerium (oleander). 






nicotiana (tobacco). 






nymphsea (water lily) 







240 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Greenhouse, 
(o) odontoglossum, 
(f>) ornithogalum. 
orange, 
petunia, 
phyllocactus. 
physalis (winter cherry), 
plumbago capensis. 
primula, 
salvia, 
schizanthus. 
smilax 

solanum (berry). 
(d) sparaxis. 
sparmannia. 
spiraea japonica. 
staphylea. 
stock. 

streptocarpus. 
(/>) tulip. 
(o) zygopetalum. 

The foregoing classification is not always rigidly 
adhered to by cultivators. Thus, zonal geraniums, 
tulips, and other plants, which are generally grown 
in the greenhouse, are often pushed on in a warmer 
house in order to get early bloom. Again, some plants 
that are frequently grown in an intermediate temperature 
for early bloom, notably roses, may be grown in a green- 
house, with no other disadvantage than somewhat later 
flowering. 

It will be seen that a considerable number of beauti- 
ful and popular flowers can be grown in a structure, the 
winter temperature of which does not fall below 40°. 
The greenhouse is, indeed, the most generally useful 
of plant houses. Conservatories are often added to 
suburban houses by builders because they are supposed 
(for some inscrutable reason) to attract hirers. Does 
the suburbanist really run after a conservatory ? If so, 




The beautiful white Lilium speciosum Kraetzeri. 



PLANT HOUSES 241 

it can only be because he does not know any better. 
Experience often teaches him a sharp lesson, because 
the builder's conservatory is generally badly built, and 
because the tenant tries to grow everything under the 
sun in it, in addition to turning it into a store for 
bicycles and cameras. Nine conservatories out of ten 
are drippy, draughty, and thoroughly bad for growing 
plants in, and are only suitable for displaying them for 
a short period. 

When a flower lover has the choice of a plant house, 
and can only afford one, let him by all means have a 
greenhouse. Although it ought to be provided with a 
heating apparatus, he can grow a very nice lot of 
flowers in it without' one. Here are a few plants that 
may be successfully grown and flowered in an unheated 
greenhouse : — 

arum lilies. freesias. liliums. 

azaleas. geraniums (summer), nerines. 

balsams (in summer), gladioli. nicotianas. 

camellias. hellebores (Christ- ornithogalums. 

cannas. mas rose). petunias (summer), 

clematises. hyacinths. schizanthus (summer), 

daffodils. ixias. spiraea japonica. 

deutzias. lilacs. tulips. 

Some of these might suffer a little in very hard winter 
weather if in growth, but a few sheets of newspaper 
spread over them afford a considerable amount of pro- 
tection. Bulbs, and allied plants such as Christmas 
roses and arum lilies, will be the most suitable for 
winter and spring bloom. In summer the greenhouse 
practically becomes a hothouse, and tender plants can 
be grown in it. 

In considering glass houses the flower lover must not 
overlook the connected items of heating apparatus, shad- 

Q 



242 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

ing, flower-pots, special soils, flower stakes, and so forth. 
The most expensive of these is the first. 

Heating. — The medium may be coal (or coke), gas, 
or oil. In any case it should be associated with hot-water 
pipes, because a house cannot be heated satisfactorily by 
hot air radiated from a lamp or stove. For one small 
house an upright boiler of the " Loughborough " type 
will suffice. The following firms make such boilers, and 
might be approached for estimates : — 

Messenger & Co., Loughborough, Leicestershire ; 
Kinnell & Co., Southwark Street, London, S.E. ; 
W. Cooper, Old Kent Road, London, S.E.; 
Twelve-Hours' Stove Syndicate, 66 Victoria Street, 

London, S.W. ; 
Jones & Attwood, Stourbridge ; 
Thames Bank Iron Co., Upper Ground Street, 

London, S.E. 
The following firms would supply estimates "for gas 
and oil heaters : — 

Fenlon & Co., Tudor Street, London, E.C. ; 
Darby Stove Works, Weston Street, London, W.C. 
For ranges of larger houses a saddle, Trentham, 
Weeks' Tubular, Rochford, or other special boiler 
should be used. The following firms might be asked 
to supply estimates : — 

Weeks & Co., Chelsea, London, S.W. ; 
Richardson & Co., Darlington ; 
T. Green & Sons, Southwark Street, London, W.C. ; 
R. Halliday & Co., Middleton, Manchester ; 
also any of the firms mentioned in connection with 
upright boilers. 

With respect to the houses themselves, the following 
firms could be given the opportunity of tendering : — 
Foster & Pearson, Beeston, Notts ; 



PLANT HOUSES 243 

Boulton & Paul, Norwich ; 

Richardson & Co., Darlington ; 

W. Duncan Tucker, Tottenham, London, N. ; 

Mackenzie & Moncur, Balcarres Street, Edinburgh. 

The following firms make a speciality of small 
"tenants-right" houses: — 

W. Cooper, Old Kent Road, London, S.E, ; 

G. Hayward, Brockley Road, London, S.E. 
The writer does not care to recommend any one of the 
foregoing firms in preference to another. 

As regards fuel, small coke is the best for upright 
boilers, and anthracite coal for large boilers. Oil stoves 
require care in trimming and cleansing, otherwise they 
are wasteful and smelly. A gas stove should never be 
put inside a house, as the fumes are highly injurious to 
plant life. 

Shading. — This may be provided in the form of 
blinds, or as a wash. The former method is the better, 
as the shade can be provided or withdrawn at will, by 
rolling the blinds down or up as the case may be. It 
is best to get them included in the estimate for the 
houses, and they should be- made of tiffany, mounted 
on rollers. "Wash " shadings can be bought in powder 
form from seedsmen and sundriesmen, and applied, 
when prepared, with a brush. 

Soils. — The most useful materials for forming pot- 
ting composts are loam (decayed turves), leaf-mould 
(decayed leaves), decayed manure, peat, and sand. 
These can be procured in most country districts. Or 
they can be bought from florists, and from dealers in 
horticultural sundries, such as the following firms : — 

W. Cooper, Old Kent Road, London, S.E. ; 

G. H. Richards, 234 Borough High Street, Lon- 
don, S.E. ; 



244 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

C. E. West, Higham Hill, London, N. ; 

Osman & Co., 132 Commercial Street, London, E.C. 
Any of the above firms that did not supply retail 
customers would give the address of its nearest 
agent. 

A compost that will suit the great majority of pot 
plants is as follows: — 

Three parts (by measure) of loam. 
One part „ leaf-mould. 

One ,, „ decayed manure. 

One-eighth ,, coarse sand. 

Watering. — The soil should be made firm in potting, 
then the wants of the plant as regards water can always 
be tested by rapping the pot with the knuckles. If a 
sharp, ringing sound follows, water is needed, but if a dull 
report is heard, water should be withheld. When plants 
are potted loosely, this simple test is not reliable ; much 
turns, therefore, on firm potting. The correct watering 
for pot plants has more to do with success than any 
other item of cultivation. Too much water, and too 
little, are equally bad. It is not correct to water plants 
at regular intervals, summer and winter, in bright weather 
and in dull. They should be watered when the rapped 
pot rings, and at no other times, whether the intervals 
be long or short. 

The pots ought to be "drained" before any soil is 
put in, and this is effected by placing a crock (broken 
portion of a flower-pot) hollow side down over the 
drainage hole, covering it with smaller pieces evenly 
overlapping, and putting on these a few flakes of clean 
moss. The hole permits superfluous moisture to escape, 
and the drainage prevents soil falling down and blocking 
the hole. 



PLANT HOUSES 245 

Pots. — The most useful sizes of pots are "sixties" 
(about three inches across the top, inside measure), 
"forty-eights" (four and a half to five inches), and 
" twenty-fours " (about eight inches wide). The pots take 
their distinctive names from the number in a " cast." A 
young plant may first go into a " sixty " from the seed- 
pan or cutting-box, then from that to a " forty-eight," and 
from a "forty-eight" to a "twenty-four" if a third move 
is necessary. Overpotting — that is, putting a plant in 
a larger pot than it needs — is objectionable in every 
way ; it is bad for the plant, it uses up soil unneces- 
sarily, it wastes pots, and it takes up valuable time. 
Many plants, notably hyacinths and geraniums, bloom 
best when rather "potbound," so long as they receive 
plenty of water. On the other hand, other plants, 
particularly chrysanthemums, ought to have the large 
pots. 

The time for repotting plants is when the roots show 
at the drainage hole. The soil should be moist, but not 
so wet as to be messy, when repotting is done. It is 
generally advisable to keep the soil rather dry, and the 
plants shaded from strong sunshine, for a week after 
potting. 

With good soil, careful watering, and proper potting, 
most plants will thrive, but there is one other important 
matter, and that is ventilation. When span-roofed glass 
structures are built it is wise to have ventilators provided 
in each side, so that the house can be ventilated from 
one side, even if a high wind is blowing from the other. 
Nearly all plants love fresh air, but not cold draughts. 
Amateurs are sometimes afraid to open the ventilators 
because of permitting warm air to escape, and thus cool- 
ing the house. Rather than go without ventilation a few 
more feet of hot-water piping should be provided. It 



246 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

does not cost much. The followmg simple calculation 
will enable any one to find out what length of 4-inch 
piping to provide for each house : — 

First multiply the length by the width, and the pro- 
duct by the height, in order to find the cubic capacity 
of the house. Example : a house 20 feet long, 12 feet 
wide, 4 feet high to the eaves and 8 feet high to the ridge 
(average height 6 feet), would have a cubic capacity of 
1440 (20 X 12 X 6= 1440). 

To ascertain the length of pipe needed : 

For a greenhouse divide the cubic capacity by 30. 

For an intermediate house divide the cubic capacity 
by 25. 

For a stove divide the cubic capacity by 20. 
Thus, if our house of 1440 feet cubic capacity is to be 
conducted as a greenhouse, we shall have to put 48 feet 
of 4-inch hot-water piping in it ; if as an intermediate 
house, 58 feet ; if as a stove house, 72 feet. These quan- 
tities will allow the margin for ventilation which has 
been recommended. 

The hot-water pipes should be arranged in two rows 
— a " flow " and a " return." The top pipe is the " flow," 
and it should rise from the boiler at the rate of about 
an inch to every 10 feet. The bottom pipe will be the 
"return." 

Builders of glass houses should remember that plans 
have to be approved by the District Surveyor before the 
erection can be proceeded with — that is, in all districts 
where building bye-laws are in force. Particulars can 
be ascertained at the town hall of the nearest town, or 
at the offices of the Town Clerk. 

They may be also advised to bear in mind that if a 
greenhouse is built on mortared bricks, and attached to 
a building by nails, it may not be removed without the 



PLANT HOUSES 247 

sanction of the owner of the house. If the owner of the 
greenhouse and the owner of the dwelHng-house are 
the same person there is no trouble, but when they are 
different persons compHcations are possible. A green- 
house built on loose bricks, and attached to a dwelling 
by means of screws, is a "tenant's-right " fixture, and 
may be removed by its owner without hindrance from 
the owner of the house. 

Pits and Frames 

A pit may be defined, in horticultural parlance, as a 
small, partially sunk, glass house. If a house stands on 
the level, either detached or leaning against a wall, it 
cannot be described as a pit, even if it is quite small. 
If, on the other hand, the earth is excavated along the 
side of a range of glass houses, front and end walls are 
built up, and glass lights are put on, the structure thus 
made is a pit. Or if earth is removed even in the open, 
quite away from a larger supporting range, and a span- 
roof house built, it will still be a pit, provided a con- 
siderable portion of its area is below the level of the 
ground. 

The advantage of a pit over an ordinary house is that 
it can be made much warmer with a given expenditure of 
fuel. It is therefore an economical structure for forcing. 
Cucumbers love the warm, moist air of pits. Rhubarb 
can be forced in them. Mushrooms can be grown in 
pits well. Large numbers of flowering plants can be 
successfully grown in them. On the other hand, we 
must recognise that they have certain disadvantages, and 
one is somewhat serious, especially in heavy soils — they 
are excessively damp in winter, and can only be kept 
dry when heated with hot-water pipes. Deep pits are 



^4^ THE t'ERFECT GARDEN 

not much used for growing plants during winter when 
unheated. A house sunk 2 feet below the ground level, 
9 feet wide, with a central path 3 feet wide, and a bed 
of the same width on each side of it, is a very good type 
of pit. It will do admirably for growing cucumbers 
and melons. It will suit tomatoes. And most flower- 
ing plants, including roses and carnations, will thrive 
in it. 

Frames are merely glass tops, technically called 
" lights," laid on low bodies of brickwork or wood, 
generally the latter. They are cheap and extremely 
useful, whether heated or unheated. Even those flower 
gafdeners who fight shy of glass houses in a general 
way may permit themselves a frame or two, especially if 
they wish to raise half-hardy plants from seed, such as 
stocks, asters, petunias, phloxes, and zinnias, and want 
to have winter violets. A frame is useful in all sorts of 
ways. To begin with, it may be united with a hotbed of 
manure in spring, and used for raising various flowering 
plants, also tomatoes, celery, and other kitchen-garden 
crops. In late spring, when the heat of the hotbed is 
spent, the frame will serve for hardening plants ; and 
this process is important, for if young plants which had 
been raised in heat were put out of doors without an 
intermediate stage in a cool, glass-protected place they 
would suffer severely. In summer the frame may be 
used for cucumbers, or (if greenhouse plants are grown) 
for young primulas, cinerarias, bouvardias, calceolarias, 
and other things. In early autumn a mild hotbed of 
manure and leaves may be built up, a few inches of soil 
laid on it, and violets planted. Thus we see that a frame 
may be made useful all the year round. 

We can buy either one- or two-light frames. A useful 
size for a single frame is 5 feet long, 4 feet wide, 18 



PLANT HOUSES 249 

inches high at the back, and i foot in front. This will 
cost about thirty shillings. If single frames are made 
very large the sashes are heavy to lift, and in preference 
to increasing the size of single frames it is better to have 
double ones. 



CHAPTER II 

FRUIT HOUSES 

Grapes, peaches, and nectarines, early strawberries, and 
figs, not to speak of early pears, apples, plums, and 
cherries, have an alluring sound. 

We are all fruit-eaters nowadays. We no longer 
feel that we need four or five heavy meals a day. We 
realise that large quantities of solid food clog us — that 
they are wasteful in a double sense, first in that they 
entail more initial cost, and secondly in that they use 
up too much of our vital energy in the processes of 
digestion and assimilation. Brain workers in par- 
ticular, and those who follow sedentary occupations, 
find the necessity for extreme care in avoiding over- 
feeding. 

Fruit is a light and wholesome food, and we turn 
to it naturally when we once thoroughly learn the im- 
portant lesson of restraint and good judgment. We 
like, too, to grow our own. But are we quite sure that 
we are in a position to force early supplies in glass 
houses ? It is quite easily done, but we shall be wise 
to count the cost before we make a start. If we build 
houses for grapes, peaches, and strawberries, we shall 
have to heat them ; and, if we are non-experts (and 
otherwise engaged to boot), we shall have to pay for 
skilled labour to manage them. Is it worth our while 
to do this ? That is the question which has to be 



FRUIT HOUSES 251 

settled, and each garden owner must decide it for him- 
self, after carefully considering the matter in all its 
bearings. 

We might give a little consideration to the houses 
and their cost. 

A grape house, or vinery, may be either a span-roof 
or a lean-to. In large gardens it is customary to enclose 
the kitchen garden with a brick wall. This is often 
made extra high at the northern end, and a lean-to 
vinery built against the southern face of it, divided into 
three sections, respectively for early, medium, and late 
crops. The house may be of any desired length, but 
should not be less than twelve feet wide. The roof 
should have an angle of 45°. Taking into account the 
cost of the supporting wall, and the heating, such a 
range of vineries will entail an outlay of from ^^3 to ^5 
per foot run. The actual cost varies greatly — with the 
width, the height, the class of material employed, and 
whether only late crops are grown, or whether early 
supplies have to be produced. Firms of horticultural 
builders, such as those advertising in horticultural 
papers will give estimates if asked. 

Grapes might be grown in houses that are not pro- 
vided with a heating apparatus, but several of the 
choicest varieties, such as the muscat, would have to be 
omitted. In wet, cold seasons the results would be 
disappointing with nearly all varieties. 

Early strawberries can be grown on shelves in 
vineries, and tea roses, and other plants, can be grown 
on the back walls, but a vinery cannot be looked upon 
as a general plant house. 

Peaches and nectarines are grown in similar houses 
to grapes, and are trained on wires under the roof, and 
also on the back wall. As with grapes, the cost of culti- 



252 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

vation will depend upon whether early as well as late 
crops are wanted. 

Those persons who want a regular supply of home- 
grown fruit, and cannot go to the expense of vineries 
and peach houses, might consider an "orchard house." 
This is a light, well-ventilated structure, generally heated 
with a flow and return pipe all round. The fruit trees 
which it is to shelter may be grown in large pots, so 
that they can be shifted into the open air during part of 
the year. Many growers arrange matters so that the 
fruit trees may crop in late spring and summer, go 
out of doors as autumn approaches, and have the pots 
plunged in cinders, thus setting the house free for 
chrysanthemums. When the latter are over the fruit 
trees may come back again. 

An orchard house is much more cheaply conducted 
than a forcing range of vineries and peach houses. 
Only enough heat is wanted to exclude frost in winter. 
Splendid apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, and 
nectarines can be grown in pots. There is, of course, 
an outlay for soil, which must be good ; and pots, which 
must be large. But against this must be set the lower 
cost of building and heating apparatus. Fifteen feet 
should be the minimum width of an orchard house. 
The cost need not exceed £2 per foot run, and may 
be less. 

Melons may be successfully grown in small pits such 
as those described in the preceding chapter, and the cost 
need not exceed £1 per foot run. 

The question of labour now comes under considera- 
tion. Owners of small places, the garden work of which 
is done by one general hand (often only half trained), 
sometimes add glass houses without making extra pro- 
vision for labour, either in respect to quantity or quality. 



FRUIT HOUSES 253 

Thus we see a garden of two acres, in which fruit, vege- 
tables, flowers, and lawns are included, as well as two 
or three glass houses, muddled by one overworked, and 
not really competent, man. The more people practise 
gardening themselves the more thoroughfy they learn 
that it is full of apparently insignificant operations which 
take up considerable time. Merely pricking off a batch 
of seedlings may occupy a couple of hours, and leave 
very little to see. 

If a vinery and a plant house, with accompanying 
satellites in the form of frames, are added to a garden, 
another " hand " should be engaged, or a labourer ex- 
changed for a trained gardener and a strong lad. The 
change will mean the addition of several shillings a week 
to the labour bill, but it is necessary to successful and 
harmonious working. The best advice that can be given 
to a person who cannot afford to conduct a complete 
garden, with indoor and outdoor plants and fruit, satis- 
factorily, is to give up glass, save for a few frames, 
entirely. After all, one can buy both fruit and flowers 
cheaply, and although they may not seem to be 
so good as home-grown ones, it is better to resort 
to them than have constant friction, worry, and dis- 
appointment. 

Having put the issue fairly, we may give a Httle 
consideration to the various fruits. 

The most useful all-round black grape is certainly 
the Black Hamburgh, and the most useful white Foster's 
Seedling. They have not the special flavour of the 
muscat, but they are good. The minimum night tem- 
perature at starting may be 50°, and at finishing 65°. 
Assuming that a start is made at the end of March — 
which is a very good time — the necessary warmth can 
be secured without a great amount of piping, because 



254 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

the warm weather of spring will be at hand. And in- 
asmuch as the crop should be ready by the end of 
August there will be no difficulty whatever about getting 
sufficient heat, because Nature will provide it. It is the 
early forced grapes which cause trouble and expense in 
heating — the grapes which have to be ripe in spring. 
Another thing, grapes grown under practically natural 
conditions may have their roots in an outside border, 
whereas early grapes should have theirs in an inner 
one. The former will entail less labour in watering than 
the latter. A vine planted outside, and trained through 
an orifice in the brickwork, will be perfectly safe if its 
stem is wrapped round with a straw band. It may be 
planted in spring, and the upper buds all picked off 
down to one near the point where the glass and brick- 
work meet, which should be left to grow. When it is 
a foot long the whole of the stem above it may be cut 
away. All the buds on the part of the stem below the 
chosen one may also be rubbed out. This apparently 
barbarous proceeding generally leads to the formation 
of a splendid rod. 

Vines entail a good deal of detailed work, as in addi- 
tion to the necessary preliminaries of forming borders 
and planting, there is the management of the laterals, 
which have to be developed about nine inches apart 
along both sides of the rod, to bear the bunches of 
grapes ; tying the young shoots to the wires in spring, 
an operation that requires care, as the shoots easily 
break off ; fertilising the blossoms ; and thinning the 
bunches — a slow, tedious operation. In addition, there 
are the routine operations of ventilating and syringing. 
Ventilation is a very important matter, as the leaves are 
liable to "scorch," and the berries to "scald," if the sun 
comes out on a closed house, especially after a series of 



FRUIT HOUSES 255 

dull days. A cloudy spell sometimes lulls the grower 
into a false security. He rises late one morning, and 
finds that the sun has broken through, and is beating 
down with fierce heat on the vinery. The temperature 
has rushed up to an alarming figure, and although 
every ventilator is opened, it cannot be got down again. 
Moreover, the moisture which had condensed on the 
berries is suddenly dried up, and they are "scalded." 

Although the routine of grape-growing is somewhat 
exacting it is pleasant and interesting, except for the 
operation of thinning, to which the former adjective 
hardly applies. Moreover, grapes are not only delicious 
but valuable fruits. 

Peaches and nectarines are generally so costly in the 
shops that those who have had no experience of them 
might suppose them to be difficult to grow. On the 
contrary, nothing is more easy. The high prices arise, 
in the main, from the cost of early forcing, and prevail 
in the spring, when the supplies are short. 

Peaches are remarkably free-growing trees ; in fact, 
they often grow too strongly, especially in the hands of 
inexperienced people, who provide a heavily-manured 
soil, under the impression that manure is the principal 
want. The trees form long shoots like carriage whips in 
a few weeks, and wood so vigorous as this is not fruitful. 
Decayed turves, with wood ashes (refuse from garden 
fires), will provide a sufficiently fertile soil, as they will, 
also, for grapes. If the shoots extend more than three 
feet in the year, in spite of the absence of manure, the 
trees must be lifted and root pruned. 

The trees are not altogether free from enemies, but 
they are easily kept healthy. Black fly will attack the 
tips of the shoots, but is subdued by promptly dipping 
the affected parts in the soft soap and paraffin oil wash 



256 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

(see Index for page reference). There is a deadly fungoid 
disease which gardeners call " blister," owing to the fact 
that it causes swollen patches on the leaves. It will kill 
off a young tree quickly if it once gets a firm hold, but 
that rarely happens except when the trees are subjected 
to cold draughts in winter and spring. Careless ventila- 
tion often means the death of a peach tree. Mildew and 
red spider sometimes attack peaches, but they are only 
troublesome when the soil and air are very dry; and 
they are easily kept away. 

Success with peaches and nectarines turns, in some 
measure, on a wise choice of sorts. The grower who 
plants several should not buy all of the same fruiting 
season, but should select varieties that form a natural 
succession to each other. Thus, making his earliest 
variety a nectarine, he might buy the splendid sort 
called Lord Napier. Taking peaches for his second 
and third crops, he might have Grosse Mignonne and 
Sea Eagle. These are all healthy growers, free bearers, 
and of delicious flavour. 

One can buy peach and nectarine trees all ready for 
bearing, but it is not everybody who can afford them, as 
they are rather dear. Young, untrained trees are cheap 
enough, but they must be handled in a particular way if 
they are to give the best results. One often sees trees 
with the lower part consisting of nothing but bare, 
brown stems ; there may be a length of three or four 
feet without anything whatever on it. This is due to 
neglect in pruning. The trees ought to be cut back 
hard when young, in order to get the lower part of the 
wall or trellis furnished with fruiting wood. The result- 
ing branches can be trained a few inches apart on the 
wires, and side shoots allowed to grow from them for 
bearing the fruit. When the fruit has been gathered 



FRUIT HOUSES 257 

these shoots can be cut out, and a young one which has 
grown up from the base of each tied in its place for 
fruiting the following season. With a little experience 
the grower learns to arrange for a constant succession 
of young shoots. He learns, too, how to disbud — that 
is, to pick off from the bearing shoots in spring all the 
leaf-buds except two, one at the base, which is to form 
the fruiting shoot of the following year, and one at the 
tip, which is to draw up the sap. He finds also that it 
is prudent to thin the fruit when a great deal forms, 
limiting each shoot to two. 

Altogether he will find the peach a very interesting 
fruit to grow, as well as a very delicious one to eat. 

We have seen that we can grow some pots of straw- 
berries on a shelf in a vinery, and with a little care we 
can have a nice supply of fruit a considerable time before 
any is ready out of doors. Any trade fruit-grower will 
supply us with plants, or we can raise them ourselves by 
filling some three-inch pots with soil in July, sinking 
them to the brims in the soil round the plants in an out- 
door strawberry bed, and placing on each one of the 
young plants which will be seen to have formed on a 
long " runner." When they have rooted, cut the 
runner through. Keep the young plants in the three- 
inch pots until they begin to root through the drainage 
hole, and then transfer them to six-inch pots, using 
decayed turves, leaf-mould, and coarse sand in the 
proportions of three parts, one part, and one-tenth 
part. By mid-autumn we shall have strong plants with 
fruiting crowns, and all we have to do is to stack the 
pots in a heap on their sides, cover them with litter 
or bracken, and leave them until we start our vinery or 
other house, be it January, February, or March, It is 
not wise to force hard and early, or to aim at very heavy 

R 



258 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

crops. If we start our plants in February in a tempera- 
ture of about 50°, and restrict each to six fruits, we 
shall probably succeed much better than if we begin 
in December, use a great deal of heat, and let the 
plants bear as many fruits as they like. 

All varieties of strawberries are not equally good for 
forcing in pots. Two of the best are Royal Sovereign 
and Sir Joseph Paxton. The first may have the prefer- 
ence ; it is a splendid variety — a healthy grower, a free 
bearer, and has large fruit of good flavour. 

We can grow melons either in a house or pit. They 
want a wire trellis, fixed a few inches from the roof, to 
ramble on, a compost such as will suit peaches or straw- 
berries, and they are happy. We can raise plants from 
seed in spring if we have a hotbed, and we can plant 
them out in our pit, each on a separate mound of soil 
about a yard from its neighbours. The plants will grow 
rapidly if we keep the soil moist, and provide a tempera- 
ture (minimum) of about 65°. We must not let the shoots 
get thick and tangled, but keep them just clear of each 
other. Two kinds of flower will show — one with a swell- 
ing (the incipient fruit) at the base, the other without. 
If we keep the soil nearly dry for a few days (but not so 
much so as to cause the plants to flag), when the plants 
are in bloom pollen dust will form and become loose on 
the non-fruit flower. We now remove the petals and 
press the flower into the centre of the fruiter, thus 
effecting fertilisation. 

Six fruits are the most that each of our melon plants 
should bear, and when the melons begin to swell we 
must take hold of the end of each bearing-shoot between 
finger and thumb at the second leaf beyond the fruit 
and nip it off. Thus each plant will be kept within 
bounds. It is given its work to do, and has to do it 



FRUIT HOUSES 259 

without interfering with its neighbours. When the fruits 
are swelling up we can give a top-dressing of fresh soil 
with advantage. It may be of the same nature as that 
which we planted in, and may be put on two inches or 
so thick. It ought not to be brought from a cold out- 
door heap and used immediately, but kept in the house 
until it has got warmed, and then be put on. 

Of the many varieties of melons offered in seed 
catalogues, Hero of Lockinge and Syon House are 
two of the best. 



PART IV 

THE FRUIT GARDEN 



CHAPTER I 

WHY WE SHOULD GROW FRUIT 

The Perfect Garden must contain fruit for three main 
reasons — (i) the trees are beautiful when in bloom ; (2) 
the fruit is pleasant and beneficial ; (3) the cultivation of 
fruit trees is healthful and interesting. 

There is nothing more charming than a break of 
fruit blossom in spring. First come the stone fruits — 
apricots, peaches, cherries, and plums ; then follow the 
pip fruits — apples and pears. A complete collection of 
the different kinds will give us a natural succession of 
bloom. The display will be further prolonged by the 
variation of the different sorts. Thus, all varieties of 
apples do not flower together ; some are early, and others 
late. 

The Kentish cherry orchards form a glorious picture 
in the spring. Cherries luxuriate on the rich, loamy soils 
between Newington, Sittingbourne, and Faversham, and 
some of the trees are giants, approaching the size of 
park trees. Small or large, they are as beautiful as the 
finest of ornamental trees when clothed in their snowy 
mantle of spring bloom. 

It is good to wander amongst the trees in a large 
orchard on a golden April day. The trees are laden with 
blossom, which falls in a constant, steady shower, that 
gradually whitens the grass as with a fall of snow. It 

is the time of young lambs, whose fleeces vie with the 

263 



264 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

petals of the cherries for whiteness. SunHght quivers 
through the foHage, and falls in bars, and zigzags, and 
elusive, quavering lines on the turf. There is an ever- 
varying play of light and shade. 

We cannot match the finest of the Kent trees in all 
districts, because the soil is not so favourable, but we 
can achieve good results in most places. At the least we 
can have a spread of Morello blossom on a wall, and a 
naturally grown plant of the brandy-cherry — that is, one 
which has been allowed to form, and retain, a mass of 
side shoots — is a lovely object. Every bit of spray is 
densely wreathed with white flowers. Consider that all 
this beauty is not the end, but only the beginning — that 
after it comes the refreshing, agreeable, wholesome fruit 
— and we begin to understand how valuable fruit trees 
are. 

Perhaps the apples give us the most beautiful blossom 
effects, as they do the most valuable fruit. Most of the 
bloom comes in May, although one or two varieties, such 
as Northern Greening and Court-pendu-plat, may not 
be out until June in a late season. Some varieties have 
much finer flowers than others. Bramley's Seedling, 
Lane's Prince Albert, Blenheim Orange, Wellington, 
and other varieties which, as we shall see presently, are 
good cookers, have large, handsome flowers, and are in 
the best sense of the word ornamental plants. 

Old trees in orchards, with their gnarled trunks, and 
crooked, moss-covered branches, are very picturesque 
in spring, but as fruit-bearers they are often defective ; 
and, what is more, they are a source of danger to neigh- 
bouring plantations, through the pests they harbour. A 
paternal state will not permit a child to infect a whole 
school with scarlet fever, and it is beginning to object 
to a neglected orchard forming a home for caterpillars 



WHY WE SHOULD GROW FRUIT 265 

and fungi, whence they spread to other, and possibly 
well-managed, gardens. Young trees may not be so 
picturesque as these twisted veterans of the orchards, 
but their flowers are finer, and they are very beautiful 
when full of bloom. In our flower-garden section we 
saw how old fruit trees might be utilised, their tops being 
reduced, and their main stems being used for supporting 
roses and clematises. 

The wise fruit-grower will either keep bees, or view 
with favour the visits of his neighbours' bees to the 
trees. Bees are undoubtedly friends to the fruit culti- 
vator, through their action in conveying pollen from 
flower to flower, and thus insuring cross-fertilisation, 
with all its invigorating influences. 

We would grow fruit trees, then, for their beauty 
alone ; how much more ready are we to cultivate them 
for the sake of their fruit ! If we had only a supply of 
apples we should consider ourselves fortunate. Provided 
that we arranged for planting both dessert and culinary 
varieties, we should have apples to eat raw and apples 
baked, stewed, or rolled into toothsome dumplings. 
Among the dessert varieties we should hope to include 
the juicy Worcester Pearmain, the rich Ribston Pippin, 
the full-flavoured Cox's Orange Pippin, and the aromatic 
Rosemary Russet. We should have some sorts for summer 
eating, others for autumn use, a supply for Christmas 
and the cosy dinner-tables of winter, and yet more 
to last us into spring. Then of the cookers we should 
take care, while growing early sorts like Lord Suffield, 
Keswick Codlin, Lord Grosvenor, and New Hawthorn- 
den, to have a goodly selection of long-keepers, such as 
Lane's Prince Albert, Bramley's Seedling, and Newton 
Wonder, so that we might draw from our stores until 
late spring. Particularly we should take care to include 



266 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

one or two varieties with real, distinctive flavour, like 
Wellington, Bramley's, and dear old Blenheim Orange 
— apples that taste of something, and can be eaten with 
enjoyment without being smothered with sugar and 
cream. 

We should have as long a succession as possible of 
melting and delicious pears, for autumn, winter, and 
spring desserts. For this fruit, and also for the apple, 
we should probably resort to the cordon system, in order 
to get a large number of varieties into a small area of 
ground. We do not want large bulks at one particular 
season ; we want smaller quantities over a long period. 
Early pears only whet our appetite for later ones. The 
foreign exporter sends us excellent pears in August and 
September, but after that we find it difficult to buy them. 
If we could only grow our own, and store them in a 
suitable place, we could not only have fruit in the months 
named, but for several months afterwards, for let it be 
known that some of our best pears are good keepers. 
We should take care, while we are about it, to grow 
varieties that we could really enjoy, such as Jargonelle, 
Beurrd Hardy, Williams's Bon Chretien, Emile d'Heyst, 
Marie Louise, Thompson's, Marechal de Cour, Doyenn^ 
du Cornice, Josephine de Malines, and Glou Mor^eau. 
Most certainly pears would not be left out of our fruit 
calculations. We would have them, and have them 
good. 

In view of their value for preserving, as well as for 
dessert and cooking, plums are only second to apples ; 
indeed, it wants the best of apples to exceed the good 
old Victoria plum in general value. Do people realise 
what delicious jam this and other varieties make when 
gathered green ? In years of plum plenty (like 1907, 
when trees all over the country were breaking down 



WHY WE SHOULD GROW FRUIT 267 

with their burden of fruit, which, ripe, was of little value, 
owing to the glut), it is true kindness to relieve the trees 
of a part of their crop while it is still green, and preserve 
it. The fruit left has a better chance ; there is less risk 
of broken branches, and the jam is of the finest possible 
flavour if equal quantities of fruit and sugar are used. 

Such plums as Victoria, Pond's Seedling, Monarch, 
and Cox's Emperor are splendid when cooked, and we 
have no more delicious dessert fruits than such choice 
plums as the early and late Transparent Gages and Coe's 
Golden Drop. Plums are not quite so suitable for cor- 
dons as apples or pears, but they are easily grown as 
standards, half-standards, bushes, and wall trees. 

Mention of walls gives a reminder of how much valu- 
able space is often wasted that might be occupied by 
fruit trees. Even fences may be utilised. No aspect is 
absolutely impossible. It is true that the majority of 
fruits will not thrive on east and north aspects, but a 
few will. The Morello cherry and Coe's Golden Drop 
plum will succeed, and at the worst we can grow cur- 
rants and gooseberries, which give splendid fruit when 
grown as cordons on walls and fences. If the support 
is a low one the trees may be trained diagonally, which 
gives them a longer run ; and, if necessity should arise, 
it may be practicable to strain one or two lengths of wire 
above the wall. 

Our selections of cherries will not be confined to the 
Morello. We shall certainly endeavour to find room 
for one or two good varieties of the spur-bearing class, 
such as May Duke, Governor Wood, Bigarreau, Black 
Heart, and Rivers's Early Prolific. These will be very 
welcome for dessert. 

We may, perhaps, include a quince, for the sake of 
the excellent jelly which its highly perfumed fruit makes. 



268 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Turning to the small or soft fruits we first consider 
the ever-valued strawberry, with its three main recom- 
mendations — early bearing, delicious, refreshing flavour 
as dessert, and value for jam. We cannot propagate 
apples and pears, and grow them to a fruiting stage, within 
a year ; strawberries we can. One of the first fruits of 
the year, the strawberry is also one of the most valu- 
able. It takes up so little room that a few rows can be 
grown in every small garden. It is accommodating as 
to soil, thriving, with proper management and a wise 
choice of varieties, in light as well as in heavy land. It 
is scarcely necessary to point out that strawberries make 
one of the most delicious of preserves, for which purpose 
the smaller successional fruits may be used after the first 
yield has been used for dessert. We shall not overlook 
the "perpetual " strawberries. 

Gooseberries have three main uses — they are excel- 
lent for tarts, selected varieties are delightful for dessert, 
and they make splendid jam. But a great trade in 
bottled gooseberries is now growing up, as, indeed, it is 
in plums, pears, and cherries also. Preserving without 
sugar is apparently to be the method of the future. 
Special air-tight bottles with screw tops are now made 
by several firms. These are filled with sound, carefully 
picked fruit, which is covered with a little syrup, and 
then sealed up. The fruit keeps splendidly, and may 
be used months afterwards for tarts and stewing. The 
green gooseberry is the earliest outdoor fruit of the 
year, and as such is always welcome. By choosing our 
sorts we can have a constant supply for many weeks. 

Currants are nearly as valuable as gooseberries for 
cooking and preserving, if less so for dessert. They 
make delicious jams and jellies. Easily raised, coming 
into bearing quickly, and being in season for a long 



WHY WE SHOULD GROW FRUIT 269 

period with a wise choice of varieties and aspects, they 
serve a valuable purpose. 

The raspberry will not be overlooked, if only because 
of its value for mixing with currants in dishes of stewed 
fruit. It admirably softens the sharpness of the currants, 
and makes a pleasant blend. Like currants, it makes 
excellent jam and jelly. 

Of the hybrid fruits the loganberry will perhaps be 
esteemed the most highly. It is every bit as good as 
the raspberry for preserving, although hardly as good 
for stewing, on account of a slight inferiority of flavour. 
Fruit fertilisers are endeavouring to improve the flavour 
of the loganberry, and if they succeed it will be one of 
the most valuable of all the soft fruits, owing to its 
vigorous growth and great productiveness. 

We shall perhaps have an apricot or two on a wall — 
even peaches and nectarines if the position is sheltered 
and the aspect favourable, but it is useless trying them 
in places exposed to cold winds, unless they can be 
protected, because they will be destroyed by "blister." 
The apricots may need shelter also, because they bloom 
so early that the flowers are often killed by frost, and 
the crop destroyed. 

Blackberries may be thought worthy of a place, or 
they may not. Let it be remembered, however, that the 
best garden forms bear large, juicy fruit, which makes 
splendid jelly. 

Nuts are not included in the usual list of garden 
fruits, but they are easy to grow, and may have a place 
if desired. 

We may, then, by selecting good varieties of suitable 
kinds, have a long supply of fruit. It should be on our 
tables every day, in some form or other, as an agreeable 
and beneficial, if not highly nourishing, food. The acid 



270 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

juices of fresh fruit are valuable for the human system, 
and the mistake of keeping it for the last stage of a 
heavy evening meal ought to be avoided. The time to 
eat fruit with the greatest benefit is in the morning, 
before the first meal is partaken of. But if raw fruit 
stands first, cooked fruit has its value. A baked apple 
is pleasant to the palate, and thoroughly wholesome, 
while stewed pears, plums, cherries, and small fruits are 
also excellent. Jam presents its strongest appeal to the 
juveniles, and is an admirable food for them. 

Our third reason for growing fruit is that it forms an 
interesting and healthy exercise or occupation. The 
pruning, training, and general management of fruit trees 
are tasks full of interest. There is nothing arduous in 
connection with it, when once the labour of preparing 
the ground is over, and if the necessity for root-pruning 
trees when they have grown to a considerable size is 
avoided, as it can and ought to be. The various opera- 
tions are light and agreeable. The work is done out of 
doors, in fresh air. In moving about among fruit trees, 
pruning them, spraying them, and ministering to their 
requirements in various ways, one gets gentle, healthful 
exercise, combined with a pleasant, unexciting mental 
stimulus. 

It may be well to utter one word of warning. A 
great deal is said in the press on the subject of the high 
profits which attend fruit-growing, and irresponsible 
writers point to it as a ready means of adding to a 
small income. It is rarely that a collection of fruit 
trees in a private garden yields much money, because 
there is not sufficient of the various sorts to establish 
a regular trade. The fact that a few particularly 
fine fruits of a special variety may sell for a good 
price must not be taken as proof positive that the 



WHY WE SHOULD GROW FRUIT 271 

whole of the surplus fruit can be disposed of on cor- 
responding terms. 

Speaking broadly, the culture of fruit for market and 
for meeting the wants of a family are so entirely dis- 
similar that they must proceed on widely different lines. 
The market grower not only wants good fruit, but a 
considerable quantity of it, so that he may be in a 
position to establish a connection with his agent, and 
maintain a supply of the varieties which the latter 
reports to be in demand. In the main, he must aim at 
getting large quantities of a few varieties, carefully 
chosen to suit the soil and situation. The private 
grower's requirements are different. He wants small 
quantities of a large number of varieties, in order that 
he may have a supply daily over the longest possible 
period. There is, therefore, a fundamental difference 
between the two classes of growers. It is impossible to 
plant fruit to meet the requirements of both fully, and it 
may be suggested that those who plant for private use 
would be wise to abandon all ulterior idea of profit. 
Should a monetary return come subsequently, in special 
circumstances, well and good. As a rule, it is only an 
apple surplus that has to be sold, because other fruits 
can be preserved. Non-keeping apples are sometimes 
too abundant for immediate use, and as they are not 
valuable for jam, there is a natural and laudable desire 
to sell them. 

With several good reasons for growing fruit firmly 
established, we may now proceed to consider such prac- 
tical matters as choice of site for the fruit garden, 
preparation of the land, selection of varieties, planting, 
and pruning. 



CHAPTER II 

A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 

It is not every garden lover who can afford the luxury 
of a complete fruit garden, with wall trees, arches, stand- 
ards, pyramids, and bushes. Even in large establish- 
ments where a great deal of fruit is grown, the fruit 
shares the kitchen garden with vegetables. Fruit is 
grown on the walls, and vegetables on the borders under 
the latter. Along the paths there may be borders of 
vegetables, with lines of cordon and espalier fruit trees 
behind. In the open quarters there will be sections of 
vegetables separated by lines of fruit bushes. 

The fact that fruit is not generally grown in a garden 
to itself need not deter any one who wants to have a 
complete collection of fruit from arranging for it. A 
separate fruit garden is quite feasible, and is highly 
interesting. If it is enclosed by walls, well and good ; 
if not, we can make boundaries of wire or wooden 
fencing or trellis-work, and plant fruit trees on them. 

Let us consider how we might carry into effect this 

idea of a complete fruit garden. We will assume that 

we must forego walls. We fully recognise their value, 

but the cost is too great for us. In place of walls we 

form our boundaries by driving in strong posts, and 

straining lengths of wire to them. Our posts should 

stand six feet above the ground, and five lengths of wire 

will suffice. These wire boundaries will make admirable 

373 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 273 

supports for cordon and espalier trees, which, together 
with other forms, we will consider presently. 

We shall, of course, arrange for entrances to our 
enclosure — say four, one at each corner. These may 
be arched, for the sake of informality, and the arches 
planted with loganberries, blackberries, or ornamental 
crabs. 

We will form a path all round, but, instead of making 
it close to the boundary, we will form it a few feet within, 
so as to leave a border. This can be planted with straw- 
berries and small bush fruits, such as gooseberries and 
currants. Along the path we can strain a wire about 
two feet above the ground and train horizontal cordons 
along it. 

We may now turn our attention to the main body of 
the garden. This could, of course, be in one piece, but 
it will be more interesting and attractive to divide it into 
two sections, separated by a cross path. Quite in the 
middle of the garden this path might be turned round a 
central object, such as a standard mulberry tree with a 
seat at its foot, or a circular framework of poles planted 
with loganberries, surrounded by a border of stocks 
or other fragrant flowers. At each point where the 
cross path leaves the main path we can provide an 
arch. The two main sections can then be filled with 
standards, bushes, and pyramids, and the garden is 
complete. 

The management of a fruit garden such as this would 
be a delightful pastime. It would prove almost as in- 
teresting as the management of a flower garden. In a 
sense it would be a flower garden, because the spring 
blossom of the trees would be a real asset ; and it would 
be quite permissible to introduce a few flowers beside 
the paths. Of course the fruit garden need not be very 



274 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

large. It would be a garden within a garden — a section 
apart from the garden proper. 

We shall have no difficulty in finding types of tree to 
suit our various purposes. Let us commence with the 
entrance arches. It was suggested that these might be 
planted with loganberries, black currants, or ornamental 
crabs. The loganberry is well suited for cultivation on 
arches, on account of its remarkably vigorous growth, 
and its large, thick leaves. When well established it 
throws up canes several feet long in a few weeks, so 
that it clothes a support very quickly. The flowers are 
not particularly beautiful, but they are produced abund- 
antly. The fruit is like a huge raspberry, and is juicy 
and refreshing, but there is no very marked flavour. The 
loganberry may be planted in autumn or spring. It likes 
a deep, rich, cool soil, and is at its best on heavy loams 
or well-worked clays. It is not well suited by thin, dry, 
sandy, impoverished soil. Ground of the latter character 
may be improved by adding manure and burnt clay. 
Pruning may consist in cutting out the older canes quite 
from the base. The new canes, which are to give fruit 
the following season, ripen best if they are tied out clear 
of the fruiters, because, when so treated, they are well 
exposed to sun and air. 

Everybody knows the blackberry of the hedgerows, 
and appreciates it for stewing in the autumn, in spite of 
its slight grittiness. Everybody does not know, however, 
that there are garden forms vastly superior to the native. 
Several of them originated, like the loganberry, in 
America. They bear more abundantly than the wild- 
ing, and the berries are a great deal larger, as well as 
more juicy, and richer in flavour. Two excellent 
varieties of garden blackberry are the parsley-leaved 
and the Wilson Junior. Most fruit nurserymen offer 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 275 

these two sorts, and they are quite cheap. Perhaps 
the parsley-leaved is the more reliable. The Wilson 
Junior bears splendid crops of large, juicy fruit, but it 
does not grow vigorously in cold places, especially if 
the soil is dry and shallow. It wants shelter and rich 
land. The fruit called the Japanese wineberry may be 
grown with the blackberries if desired. It grows 
strongly, and the fruit is large and juicy. 

The one real difficulty with blackberries is to establish 
them. They often grow very feebly when they are first 
put in. The soil should be dug very deeply, and well 
enriched with decayed manure. The canes, when planted 
in autumn, should be pruned back close to the ground, 
however strong and well rooted they may be. It seems 
an unfortunate thing to have to do, bearing in mind that 
it means sacrificing a crop of fruit the first year, but it 
is certainly prudent. Whatever reluctance is felt at fore- 
going an immediate crop should be overcome, in the 
interests of future success. With rich soil and early 
pruning to help them, the plants generally make good 
growth the first year, and fruit well the second. If they 
do not grow well, but form weak, spindly canes, there is 
nothing for it but to cut them down again. 

When blackberries are fairly established they throw 
up plenty of new canes every year, and these bear the 
following season. The firmer and riper that the canes 
of one year become, the better the crops of fruit in the 
following season. They should not be allowed, there- 
fore, to grow very thickly, but should be restricted in 
number, and the old canes should be cut out directly the 
fruit has been gathered. 

Ornamental crabs are beautiful trees, and the fruit is 
of value for preserving and for making jelly. The flowers 
of several are large and brilliant, and the succeeding fruits 



276 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

are highly coloured, so that the trees are ornamental both 
in spring and late summer. A variety of the Siberian, 
called Cheal's Crimson, the Dartmouth, John Downie, 
and the Transcendent, are four of the best. Both 
Cheal's and the Dartmouth have highly-coloured fruits. 
John Downie bears clusters of brilliant oval fruits, and 
may be chosen if only one variety is wanted. Transcend- 
ent also has oval fruits, red and yellow in colour. 

The crabs like a substantial soil, and will thrive on 
clay if it is well worked. They make excellent cordons, 
and it is in this form that we should use them for our 
arches, if we decided to use them at all. As cordons 
they will be restricted to one stem, the side shoots being 
pruned close in, so that the flowers and fruit are borne 
in a rope. The main stem will be allowed to extend 
freely, of course, the object being to get it to the top 
of the arch. With a strong tree planted at each side the 
arch will soon be covered. 

Having disposed of the entrance arches, the next 
consideration may be the trees for the wire-boundary 
framework. Here we can utilise any of the different 
types of trees that are trained flat, such as cordons, fans,, 
and espaliers. 

Cordon, or single stem, trees have increased rapidly 
in popularity during recent years, and are now planted 
in almost all gardens where fruit trees are grown. The 
point made in the previous chapter — that by adopting 
the cordon system a large number of varieties can be 
grown in a very small space — is highly important to 
amateurs who do not possess large gardens. One may 
grow twenty different apples or pears on fourteen yards 
run of support, as the trees do perfectly well only two 
feet apart. We may not get more than an average of 
ten fruits a year to each tree, but what of that ? We 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 277 

are not like the market grower ; we do not want a large 
bulk of any one variety at any given time ; we want 
enough to keep the household going for a long period. 
Ten fruits a day for ten weeks are more useful to us 
than one hundred fruits a day for one week. 

As they grow in a small compass, a row of cordon 
trees can be much more easily protected from birds 
than a similar number of bushes or standards, for tanned 
fish-netting can be brought into play. And birds can be 
very troublesome to fruit growers. They have a most 
exasperating way of picking off the fruit buds when the 
latter are beginning to burst. One or two bullfinches 
will pull off hundreds in a few hours and throw them 
down, causing irreparable mischief. And the birds will 
renew their attack when the fruit has developed, often 
before it is ripe. It is a case of either protecting the 
trees or killing the birds, and a great many growers, 
particularly owners of large trees, which are difficult to 
net, choose the latter alternative, thereby bringing down 
on themselves the anger of bird lovers. It is easy to 
"hold the fort " for birds generally, they certainly must 
not be killed indiscriminately. But it is hard to defend 
the bullfinch. On the whole, it seems to be a legitimate 
case for killing first and arguing afterwards. At all 
events the buds are then on the trees. 

Most of the best varieties of apples do well as 
cordons. All pears succeed. Plums and cherries are 
not so good. The amateur will be wise to plant what 
apples and pears he wants first, and then see what space 
is left for plums and cherries. The trees will cost from 
a shilling to half-a-crown each, according to age and 
variety. They should be purchased in autumn, when 
the buyer is sure of getting the particular varieties 
which he wants, and runs no risk of substitutes. It vs 



278 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

possible to get very nice trees, with fruit buds, of a great 
many good varieties for one and sixpence each. They 
will range from five to six feet high, and will have no 
side shoots, or if any, only one or two very short ones. 
The trees may be planted diagonally instead of upright, 
say at an angle of forty-five degrees, because this gives 
the leaders a longer run before they get to the top 
of the support, and the longer the run which severely 
restricted trees have, the better it is for them. They 
should be tied to the wires at once, then there will be 
no fear of chafing and injury through wind-swaying. 

The fan shape is generally used for peaches, necta- 
rines, and apricots. None of these kinds is reliable on 
a wire support unless there is shelter of a substantial 
kind behind them. If cold spring winds are kept away 
by a belt of trees and shrubs they may thrive. The 
trees are dearer than cordons, but they cover more 
space. A fan tree in its first year may cost half-a-crown, 
a tree in an advanced stage of pruning, and furnished 
with fruit buds, live shillings. It is wise to pay the extra 
price for the older tree if no knowledge of training is 
possessed, as young fan trees are very easily spoiled. 
They need hard pruning back in two consecutive years, 
and partial shortening the third, in order to get the 
lower part of the support well furnished with wood. If 
the shortening is not done, only the upper part of the 
trellis is occupied by fruiting shoots. Amateurs are 
unable to appreciate this point ; indeed, it is not put 
to them as a rule. In any case they shrink from hard 
pruning. The nurseryman does not. It is a part of his 
regular routine, and sentimental considerations never 
occur to him. 

When a fan tree has been well furnished with main 
branches or ribs, as a result of early pruning, it is not 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 279 

difficult to manage. As we saw in our chapter on fruit 
under glass, the routine consists in cutting out old wood 
which has borne fruit, and tying in young shoots to take 
their place and bear the following year. 

The espalier fruit tree is an interesting and good 
form, but it is not quite so easily managed as the 
cordon. Partly on that account, and partly because, 
by taking up more room, it precludes the possibility of 
growing so many varieties, it has declined in favour. 
There was a time when nearly every large kitchen 
garden had its walks bordered by espaliers, but it has 
passed. However, many trees of this mode still exist, 
and it is quite worth a little consideration. 

An espalier is a tree of right angles. It consists of 
a series of horizontal branches breaking from a vertical 
stem. The leader goes up as far as the height of the 
support will admit. The horizontal tiers are trained at 
intervals of a foot on both sides of it, and extend to 
the full width of their support. When a young fruit 
tree is trained so that every branch except the central 
one is diagonal it becomes a fan ; when, however, the 
outer branches are all horizontal it becomes an espaher. 

As with the fan, so with the espalier, it is prudent 
to leave the early stages of training to the nurseryman, 
unless the purchaser has time and knowledge. Any 
young apple tree raised by budding or grafting on to 
a "stock" can be turned into an espalier, given two 
things — a sufficiently early start, and some experience 
in the work. When the nurseryman contemplates 
forming an espalier he begins with a tree eighteen 
months from the bud. It is generally a tree with only 
one growth — an upright stem four to six feet long. 
Some time in the autumn or winter — certainly before it 
starts growing in the spring — he cuts it back very hard. 



28o THE PERFECT GARDEN 

If possible he cuts it to a point about a foot from the 
ground where three buds are situated. One of them 
will form the vertical shoot, another the first left-hand 
horizontal, and the third the first right-hand horizontal. 
Of course, the young shoots do not grow in the desired 
positions of their own volition. One does not grow 
straight up, and the other two at right angles with it. 
All three follow very much the same line. The trainer 
ties each to a stake, the central one vertical, the two outer 
ones at an angle of about forty-five degrees. If one 
of the latter grows stronger than its fellow, he depresses 
it more, in order to check it. The fact that lowering a 
shoot in the direction of a horizontal Hne checks its 
growth, explains why the grower is in no hurry to tie 
it down, except under the compulsion of irregular 
growth. Branches tied diagonally will come down to 
the horizontal eventually without breaking off, if it is 
done before they get hard. 

When the central shoot has made a Httle more than a 
foot of growth, the tip is pinched out to start three more 
buds, one of which goes up as a continuation of the 
leader, the other two form the second tier of horizontals, 
and so the work goes on, until the desired height is 
reached. 

An espalier tree purchased from a nursery after two 
years training should have at least three tiers of branches, 
and may cost four or five shillings. It may be trained 
to stakes, but is best trained to wires. A wire frame- 
work erected for cordons will support espaliers equally 
well. The central and horizontal branches of the 
espalier all bear fruit, but they must not be allowed to 
form a number of strong side shoots, because these 
could not be tied in systematically, and would form an 
untidy, crowded tree. The best way of dealing with 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 281 

them is to pinch them back to within about half-a-dozen 
leaves of the base at the middle of August, and cut them 
close in during winter. This effectually prevents any 
overcrowding, and at the same time encourages the 
development of plenty of fruit buds. 

The cordon, fan, and espalier trees are all suitable 
for training against a flat surface, such as a wall, fence, 
or trellis, and they will furnish the arches and boundaries 
of our fruit garden. We may now turn to the trees 
needed to fill up the open ground, and of which there 
are many forms. 

There is a very popular type of tree called the standard, 
the fruiting part of which is mounted on a tall leg or 
stem. It is the kind of tree planters use who want to 
establish orchards. Having its head well up in the air, 
it can be allowed to spread freely without preventing 
the soil below from being used. Some people suffer from 
making an injudicious use of this potential advantage. 
Perhaps they lay their ground down to pasture, and take 
the turf quite up to the boles of the trees. The natural 
soil has to be very good to carry healthy, productive 
trees when this is done. It might seem that grasses 
extract very little nourishment from the soil, being low- 
growing, small-leaved plants ; but as a matter of fact 
they cause the loss of a good deal of moisture, and the 
roots of the trees are thus induced to go down into 
poor subsoil, or into strata which are quite devoid of 
fertility. Or perhaps growers crop the ground close up 
to the trees with small fruits and vegetables, the roots 
of which make heavy drains on the food stores in the 
soil. When these mistakes are avoided the trees thrive, 
if the varieties are suited to the district and the soil. 

We may certainly introduce a few standard trees into 
our fruit garden, provided that we do not plant them 



282 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

nearer than thirty feet to each other, and do not crop, 
at any stage, within a radius defined by a vertical Hne 
drawn from a circle made round the extreme tips of 
the branches. The latter condition means that the 
ground crops must recede farther from the bole as die 
tree grows and spreads. 

Standard apples should be bought on the English 
crab stock, standard pears on the pear stock, standard 
plums on the mussel, Brompton, or Brussels stock, and 
standard cherries on the gean stock. All fruit nursery- 
men use the stocks, and supply them when asked. The 
trees may be slower in coming into bearing than trees 
on dwarfing stocks (which we shall discuss soon), but 
they will get a strong hold of the soil, and become large, 
healthy trees. When they do get into a fruitful state 
they will bear heavy crops. 

Standard trees are a little more expensive than 
dwarfs, and they entail an added cost in staking, which 
is necessary to prevent their being uprooted by the first 
heavy gale. They had better be left out of very small 
gardens. 

Bush and pyramid trees do not differ in respect to 
stocks, but only in the method of pruning. Both types 
should be on dwarfing stocks. In the case of apples, 
the stock asked for when ordering the trees should 
be the broad-leaved English paradise ; of pears, the 
quince ; of plums, the mussel or Brompton ; of cherries, 
the mahaleb. 

The word "stock" has a mysterious sound to be- 
ginners in fruit-growing, and they may wonder what 
it means. Whenever they buy a fruit tree, they buy 
a union of two plants. Let us say that they purchase 
a dwarf Cox's Orange Pippin apple. The fruiting 
branches are apple, and the upper part of the main stem 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 283 

is apple, but the lower few inches of the stem and all the 
roots are a different plant — the stock. The apple is 
established on the stock either by budding in the 
summer, or by grafting in the spring. It is quite 
possible to have apples on their own roots by striking 
cuttings, which make healthy trees, but they do not 
fruit so freely as trees on stocks. Own-root apple trees 
have a coarser root system than stock trees. The roots 
go down deeper, and do not benefit so much by surface 
feeding. A few faddists advocate them, as they would 
advocate anything that differed from general practice ; 
but they are without influence, and may be left to learn 
wisdom by experience. 

The union of apples and paradise stocks is not, in a 
general way, private garden practice ; partly because it 
presupposes the possession of both apples and stocks, 
and partly because it requires a considerable amount of 
practice to do well. It is nurserymen's work. The private 
grower should only make himself so far acquainted with 
stocks as to know which of them to ask for. He can 
leave the rest to the nurseryman with advantage. It is 
quite likely that if bush apples and pears were ordered, 
without any mention of stock, trees on the broad-leaved 
English paradise and quince would be sent. The 
nurseryman certainly uses more of these stocks than 
of any others. But he does not mind the stocks being 
specified ; he is used to it ; and he will always supply 
them on demand. 

Paradise stock apples make splendid little bushes, 
and are the very thing wanted for small gardens. They 
root near the surface, in the best soil, so that they are 
always well nourished — unless, indeed, the grower is so 
foolish as to plant them in poor land, and to put other 
crops close to them. They come into bearing quickly. 



284 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

They are easily managed. With care in pruning the}/ 
can be kept within small compass, and yet be well 
furnished with fruitful wood. Three yards apart is a. 
sufficient distance at which to plant them. 

Dwarf apples, plums, and cherries are not often 
trained as pyramids, but pears are. The trees may cost a 
little more than bushes, because they have involved more; 
time in training, but it will not be a great deal. The 
average price for three-year-old bushes and pyramids 
will be half-a-crown or three shillings. Both types 
require about the same amount of room. One can 
hardly say of any fruit tree which is regularly pruned 
that it is natural, but the bush is less formal than the 
pyramid. In both cases it is best to buy trees about 
three years old, which have been partially trained by the 
nurseryman. Indeed, this applies to standards and 
practically all types of fruit tree. 

We come now to our soft fruits — currants, goose- 
berries, raspberries, and strawberries. The two first 
named are generally grown as bushes, but, as previously 
mentioned, they may be used as cordons for training on 
walls or fences. They are in the main own-root, not 
stock, plants. Practically all bush currants and goose- 
berries are struck from cuttings. They are naturally 
dwarf-growing, fibrous-rooted,and surface-rooting plants, 
so that they do not need any dwarfing, shallow-rooted 
stocks. Cordon gooseberries are often, but not always, 
own-rooters. Nurserymen make use of a stock called 
ribes aureuni for working standard gooseberries on. Red 
and white currants will do six feet apart, but black 
currants and gooseberries, which grow stronger, should 
have a foot or two more. 

Raspberries, blackberries, and loganberries are grown 
on their own roots, so that no question of stocks comes 



A COMPLETE FRUIT GARDEN 285 

in. The first two are propagated by sucker growths, 
which spring up from the root stock. The loganberry 
is propagated by striking the tips of the canes, which 
are bent over and pegged down to the soil. 

We have seen that the loganberry can be grown on 
an arch, but it can also be trained to a wire framework 
if desired. Raspberries must be trained on wire or 
supported by stakes, but they do not need such a tall 
erection as loganberries and blackberries. Five feet is 
high enough. The canes may be put in a foot apart, 
and every other one cut hard back. Those left will bear 
fruit the first year, the others the second year. 

Our last fruit, the strawberry, will be planted in a 
bed, and may have a distance of thirty inches between 
the rows, and eighteen inches from plant to plant in 
each row. 



CHAPTER III 

WHEN AND HOW TO MAKE THE FRUIT GARDEN 

Although there are certain places in which it is diffi- 
cult to grow fruit successfully, there are few in which it 
is impossible, provided that proper steps are taken. 

The most unfavourable circumstances are those in 
which we get a shallow soil on chalk, combined with 
a low site and strong spring gales. The shallow soil 
and the chalk favour weak growth, the low site late 
frosts, and the spring gales the destruction of blossom. 
Happily such a combination is uncommon. Fruit can 
only be grown well in such circumstances when surface- 
rooting stocks are used, when the soil is deepened by 
loosening the chalk and making liberal applications of 
manure, and when special protection is provided. 

The most favourable circumstances are those in 
which we have a deep, loamy soil, and a slope to the 
south or south-east. The fertile soil will encourage 
vigorous growth, and the warm slope will tend to 
prevent the destruction of the flowers by late frosts. 

The majority of people will be so situated as to 
come between the two extremes, and satisfactory results 
are possible in the majority of cases without any serious 
outlay. It is in favour of success that in private gar- 
dens there can be greater concentration of effort than 
in orchards of many acres. The soil can be more 

thoroughy deepened and enriched, and — equally im- 

286 



WHEN TO MAKE FRUIT GARDEN 287 

portant — adequate shelter can be provided. Clay soils 
are not naturally suited to apples, but if they are well 
managed they will give good results in the case of several 
excellent varieties, which shall be named presently. 
Very sandy soils are not suitable for fruit, and need 
the addition of plenty of manure, as well as of leaf- 
mould and clay, to make them produce good crops. 

The fruit grower who takes real interest in his trees 
(and, once studied, they will become quite as interesting 
as motor-cars and flying-machines) will speedily learn 
how to adapt soils to fruits, and fruits to soils. With 
a little of both, failure is very unlikely. 

We ought to start the preparations for our fruit 
garden directly the summer begins to fade, in order 
that we may be ready to plant our trees in November. 
The ground may be under vegetables, such as potatoes, 
beans, onions, and carrots, in which case we should 
start directly they come off the ground. Fruit trees 
may be planted up to early April in most (but not in 
very dry, light) soils, but it is not prudent to leave the 
preparations until spring, because then they may have 
to be made hurriedly, and less thoroughly than is de- 
sirable. 

If the ground is under turf, a start can be made in 
September or October. If the turf is to be relaid in 
another place October will be early enough, especially 
if September is hot and dry, as the conditions are then 
unsuitable for relaying. 

The more unfavourable the soil is, naturally, the 
more important it is to move betimes. Suppose, for 
instance, that the grower has a stiff clay soil, and does 
not make a start till spring ; he is at the mercy of the 
weather. Should it be dry the soil will be accessible, 
and will probably break up readily ; but should it be 



288 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

wet the soil will be inaccessible, and may continue so 
for a considerable time, as it is altogether imprudent 
to work clay soil when it is very wet. The fruit grower 
is in different case from the vegetable grower. The 
latter can afford to let his clay soil lie undug until 
spring, and run the risk of having the work delayed 
by bad weather, because he can put his seeds and 
plants in quite well after mid-April ; but the fruit grower 
cannot put his trees in so late with safety. 

In the case of light soil it is even more important 
to move early in autumn, as it is very desirable to get 
the trees planted early, and rooting before winter comes. 
Light soil is greatly improved by autumn cultivation. 
If deeply and thoroughly broken up it holds far more 
moisture than unworked soil, and for a light soil 
moisture is almost everything. 

One other reason in favour of an early start has 
been mentioned already. It is that there is practical 
certainty of all the varieties one wants being readily 
obtainable, whereas if the purchase is left until spring, 
some that are particularly wanted may be sold out, 
and the nurseryman sends a substitute that we do not 
care for. 

We start, then, in late summer or early autumn. 
While our ground is in course of preparation we order 
our trees. There may be a fruit-nurseryman in our own 
neighbourhood whom we should like to patronise, or 
there may be a particular one who has been recom- 
mended to us by a friend. It is certainly some ad- 
vantage to employ a man who knows our soil and 
district. But if no such consideration exists we shall 
write to several reputable firms for catalogues, such as 
Bunyard & Co., of Maidstone ; Cheal & Sons, of Crawley; 
Rivers & Sons, of Sawbridgeworth ; Pearson & Sons, of 



WHEN TO MAKE FRUIT GARDEN 289 

Lowdham, Nottinghamshire; Dickson & Sons, of Chester; 
and Veitch & Sons, of Chelsea. There is really very little 
to choose between these six, and another half-dozen 
could be named practically as good. The only con- 
sideration that need weigh is the character of the soil 
in the nursery and at home. If the home soil is poor 
it would be useless to expect trees from a rich-soil 
nursery to go on growing as they had been doing. 
Heavy soil to light, and light to heavy, might also prove 
inharmonious. Buyers whose soil is clay might order 
from a heavy-soil nursery, such as Cheals'. Those on 
chalk might order from a firm which has chalk land, 
such as Clarks', of Dover. In this matter of soil the 
point is that if the home soil is suitable for fruit you 
can buy from any soil you like ; it is only a question 
of getting good trees. But when the home soil possesses 
any peculiarity it is wise to consider whether it cannot 
be humoured with advantage. 

The fruit catalogues are out in October, and it is 
a capital plan to order the trees at once, and ask the 
nurseryman to send them directly he is ready. They 
will probably come some time in November. If we 
are not quite ready for them when they arrive, our best 
plan is to lay them down and cover the roots with soil. 
There need be no fear of their drying then, or being 
injured by frost. The choice of varieties tends to be 
a rather troublesome matter, because the number is so 
great, but we will deal with that in a special chapter. 

We have considered the " when " of planting, and 
now we may consider the "how." This would appear 
to be simple enough — just make a hole, and put the 
tree in — "be aye sticking in a tree." But that will not 
do. We will go to work as though we were the wisest 
of professionals. But when we consider the ways of 



290 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

these great men, we find that they have their little 
differences. In years gone by the fruit planter used 
to make a deep, narrow hole, cram the roots into it, 
and settle them into their places with a capacious foot, 
generously booted. Then a new generation arose, and 
smote the old one. It declared that his violent plan 
was wrong, because it crowded the roots together in a 
confined space ; that roots did not spread freely enough, 
or multiply sufficiently ; that the tree, consequently, was 
not well nourished ; and that it grew slowly, or became 
actually unhealthy. This new school became the popular 
one, and when it taught fruit planters to make wide, 
shallow holes instead of deep, narrow ones ; and to 
spread the roots well out instead of cramming them 
into a mass, it was obeyed. Fruit trees throve under 
its teaching, and all appeared to be peace among 
professional fruit growers, when along came an ex- 
perimentalist with a theory (supported by some orchards 
of his planting) to prove that the narrow- hole - 
cramming plan was right after all. Then followed 
portentous "papers," learned arguments, and no end 
of prophecies of ruin and disaster from each side if 
its methods were not adopted. 

The real point is this : — Fruit trees on standard 
stocks, which have strong, hard-driving roots, may be 
planted with advantage in narrow holes, because their 
roots can penetrate the firm soil immediately around 
them, and get that tight hold which is so desirable in 
windy districts, where trees with tall heads are liable 
to be uprooted by heavy gales. Trees on dwarfing 
stocks, which have masses of flexible, fibrous roots, are 
best planted in wide, shallow holes, so that their roots 
can spread freely. They do not strike down so deeply, 
or get so tight a hold, as the other trees, but then they 



WHEN TO MAKE FRUIT GARDEN 291 

are not subjected to so much wind sway. In all cases 
the soil wants to be well trodden about the roots. The 
planter need not be afraid of seeing a fifteen-stone 
labourer apply a foot of the dimensions of a half- 
bushel measure to the soil among the roots. The 
more intimate the contact of the soil with the roots, 
the more likely the trees are to thrive. 

It may be pointed out that the logical conclusion 
to a suggestion of thoroughly firming the soil is that 
the latter should not be broken up at all, except to 
get a little loose earth to cover the roots with. But 
there are other considerations. In the case of stiff 
land, unbroken earth cracks badly in dry weather. 
And unbroken light land is generally dry. No, the 
earth must be broken, and it ought to be deeply broken 
(two feet is none too much), but when that operation 
is complete, and the trees put in, the top soil should 
be made as firm as possible. 

The holes for the trees should be made in straight 
lines, and at uniform distances apart. The trees should 
be planted about as deeply as they had been in the 
nursery, as indicated by the earth mark on the stem. 
The stakes for standard trees should be put in at the same 
time as the trees, should be sharpened at the base, and 
should be long enough to be driven down into unbroken 
soil. The trees should be tied to the stakes at the top, 
and some soft substance, such as straw, or cloth, should 
be used to prevent tree and stake rubbing together. 
The fruit grower who cycles or motors may save his 
old inner tubes for this purpose. When the rubber is 
cut up into strips it serves admirably. 

When the trees have been planted, it is a good plan 
to spread some manure around them. If its appearance 
is objected to in a garden close to the house, a little 



292 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

earth may be scattered over it. If the soil is at all 
poor, decayed manure ought to be dug in liberally 
before planting. The necessity for this turns entirely 
upon the character of the soil. Deep, fertile, loamy soils 
need not be manured under the trees, lest the growth 
made should be too luxuriant to be fruitful, and need 
root pruning. On the other hand, light soils might not 
give enough growth without manure to help them. 

A person who is unable to form an opinion as to 
the quality of his soil for fruit, and its requirements in 
respect to manure, can easily get advice in these days 
of practical horticultural journals, and of county horti- 
cultural instructors. All he has to do is to send a 
sample (preferably a large one) of his soil, and as 
accurate a description as he can furnish of the natural 
conditions, to one of these sources of information, and 
he will get useful help. The county horticultural in- 
structor is now a fixed institution, and he is always 
traceable through the secretary of the County Council 
education committee. In years gone by folk planted 
fruit trees with the same cheerful thoughtlessness that 
they assisted in the increase of the population. Now, 
so far as the fruit trees are concerned, they are more 
careful. The matter of the population is " another 
story," and does not concern the present work. 



CHAPTER IV 

WHAT VARIETIES OF FRUIT TO CHOOSE 

We have said that fruit-growing is an interesting study. 
We might go even further, and describe it as a fascinat- 
ing one. The "golf habit" is said to have been the 
means of creating a large number of grass widows. 
These forlorn wives suffer because they have not had 
wit enough to devise some counter-attraction for their 
lords. When a woman finds that her husband is in the 
way for getting golf-bitten she should (provided that 
she really wants to keep him at home) lure him into 
studying fruit-growing. When once he is fairly em- 
barked, the merits of pruning-knives and secateurs will 
be more keenly discussed than the qualities of different 
"irons." He will no longer dream of huge "drives" 
and masterly " putts," but of angles for training and 
points for summer pruning. 

She must not permit him to pore over catalogues of 
varieties too soon, however, because they are crammed 
so full that he becomes bewildered and alarmed. Why, 
he asks himself despairingly, do nurserymen put nearly 
a hundred sorts of apples in their lists, to say nothing of 
numerous pears, plums, and cherries ? Surely nobody 
ever wants to grow a hundred varieties of apples ? The 
reason, my dear sir, is that the nurseryman knows that 
he has a very large number of people to please, some of 

whom like one thing, and some another. He is afraid 

393 



294 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

that if a prospective purchaser, who has made up his 
mind to have one or two particular varieties, does not 
find them in his list, but does in another, he will go to 
that source, not only for those one or two varieties, but 
for everything else he wants as well, thenceforth and 
for ever. 

It is some such case as that of the milliner, who fills 
a shop window with hats and bonnets. She dare not 
put in a small selection, for fear the buyer should pass 
on, and, once gone, never come back again. She puts 
in a large number of different styles, in order to draw 
the buyer in. 

There are far too many varieties of apples, of course, 
and it would tend much to the peace of mind of many 
buyers if the number were greatly reduced, but un- 
fortunately there seems very little prospect of that. If 
anything, the reverse is the case, because new varieties 
keep coming out and swelling the lists. And it would 
be difficult to get any agreement as to what should be 
eliminated, in view of the fact that soils and districts 
have so great an influence on sorts. A variety which is 
of the finest quality on one soil is worthless on another. 
It is much to be feared that we must rub along as we 
are going now. 

There are various ways of cutting down the lists of 
varieties to proportions which will suit our own par- 
ticular cases. First of all we may, in submitting our 
soil to the horticultural editor or the county horticultural 
instructor, and asking him what kind of fruit it is suited 
for, press him on the score of apples, and tell him that 
if it will do for that important fruit he will place us 
under a still further obligation by naming some varieties 
that would be likely to thrive. Then we can make a 
few inquiries in the neighbourhood, particularly from 



VARIETIES OF FRUIT TO CHOOSE 295 

gardeners who have a soil Hke our own. The average 
professional gardener is one of the most obhging men 
in the world — unless you begin by telling him that his 
grapes are much inferior to a rival gardener's, and that 
his way of training peaches is all wrong. Omit these 
unnecessary preliminaries, or, better still, substitute for 
them a complimentary reference to the condition of his 
chrysanthemums, and he is your friend and adviser for 
life. Local conditions have a great bearing on the 
success of apples, and consequently local knowledge 
is of inestimable value in making a choice. 

If these channels of information are not open to the 
planter there is still a resource, and that a by no means 
insignificant one ; it is to make one's selection from 
among the varieties which one hears, sees, and reads 
most about. There are certain apples which all the 
world knows something of, and that fact bespeaks certain 
all-round qualities. The chances are that among them 
there are some which we want. Let us glance at a list 
of such varieties. 

Select Culinary Apples 

*Annie Elizabeth. Grenadier. 

♦Beauty of Kent. Keswick Codlin. 

Betty Geeson. Lady Henniker. 

*Bismarck. **Lane's Prince Albert. 

*Blenheim Orange. **Lord Derby. 

**Bramley's Seedling. **Lord Grosvenor. 

Cellini. **Lord Suffield. 

*Cox's Pomona. *Manks's Codlin. 

*Duchess of Oldenburg. Mere de Menage. 

**Ecklinville Seedling. *New Hawthornden. 

*Emperor Alexander. New Northern Greening. 

*Frogmore Prolific. **Newton Wonder. 

*Gascoyne's Seedling. **Peasgood's Nonsuch. 

*Golden Noble. **Potts's Seedling. 



296 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Sandringham. ■ Waltham Abbey Seedling. 

**Stirling Castle. **Warner's King. 

Stone's. **VVellington (Dumelow's 
The Queen. Seedling). 

Tower of Glamis. 

If the grower were able to plant thirty-six sorts well 
and good ; here they are. If he were only able to put 
in twenty-four let him grow those marked with both 
one and two asterisks. Should he be compelled to 
confine himself to twelve he might choose those marked 
with two asterisks. Both selections include early, mid- 
season, and late varieties. They are made on the 
supposition that the soil is not very heavy. Should it 
be clay, the buyer had better omit Lord Suffield and 
Wellington, splendid apples though they be, the former 
for early productiveness, the latter for flavour. The 
following should thrive if the management is good : — 



Apples for Heavy Land 

Beauty of Kent. Duchess of Oldenburg. 

Bramley's Seedling. Mere de Manage. 

Domino. Newton Wonder. 

It is better to grow several trees of a few selected 
varieties on cold, heavy soil, than to grow single trees 
of a large number of sorts, the suitability of which is 
not known. 

A brief digression may be permitted to answer an 
imaginary question as to whether anything can be done 
to rectify an error in selection, other than by pulling up 
the trees and putting in fresh ones. The answer is, Yes, 
by grafting. Two or three years may pass before the 
grower becomes convinced that certain varieties are not 



VARIETIES OF FRUIT TO CHOOSE 297 

going to succeed. They may show it by making very 
weak growth, or by cankering badly. If some sorts 
thrive and others do not under identical treatment, it 
may fairly be assumed that the soil is not hopeless, but 
that all it wants is suiting. How can it be suited better 
than by grafting the sorts that do not thrive with those 
that do ? Annie Elizabeth, Blenheim Orange, Bramley's 
Seedling, Lord Derby, and Ecklinville Seedling gener- 
ally make good change varieties. To the lay mind it 
seems strange that a tree which grows weakly may 
be made to grow strongly, and one that cankers to 
grow healthfully, merely by taking off its head and 
putting on a new one, especially as the new head 
consists of a few small shoots ; but the fact remains 
that grafting is often thoroughly successful in both 
respects. 

The time to graft apples is the early part of April, 
and the way is as follows : Take some young growths 
off the change varieties, and cut them into portions 
about as thick as a fountain pen and four inches long ; 
this will give three or four buds on each. Cut the lower 
end (that is, the reverse direction to which the buds 
point) in a long slant. About the middle of the cut 
make a second one, upward, and well into the heart 
of the shoot, so forming a tongue (hence the term 
"tongue" grafting, or sometimes "whip" grafting). 
Next prepare the unsatisfactory tree for the reception 
of these grafts or scions by cutting off the top, reducing 
each branch to a short stump, and preparing the ends 
in the same way as the scions, except that the first 
slanting cut is an upward one, and the second a down- 
ward one. Another tongue is thus formed, into which 
the tongue of the scion is fitted. The two should then 
be bound together, and painted over with a wax made 



298 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

by melting together four parts of resin, two parts of 
beeswax, and one part of tallow, which will exclude the 
air. The buds will soon swell and grow. 

Reverting to our selections, we may now give con- 
sideration to dessert varieties of apples, and begin, as 
before, with a fairly long list of the leading varieties. 

Select Dessert Apples 

Irish Peach. Cornish Gilliflower. 

**Mr. Gladstone. **King of the Pippins. 

**Beauty of Bath. Red Astrachan. 

*American Mother. *Chelmsford Wonder. 

Lady Sudeley. **Cox's Orange Pippin. 

** Worcester Pearmain. *James Grieve. 

**Allington Pippin. *Hormead Pippin. 

Duchess's Favourite. *Blenheim Orange. 

**Braddick's Nonpareil. Margil. 

*Adams's Pearmain. **Ribston Pippin. 

Fearn's Pippin. Wyken Pippin. 

**Rosemary Russet. **Court Pendu Plat. 
**Baumann's Winter Reinette. **Sturmer. 

Colonel Vaughan. 

To reduce the above list we may choose the varieties 
marked with one or two asterisks for a selection of 
eighteen varieties, and those with two asterisks only for 
a selection of twelve. In each case provision is made 
for early, mid-season, and late varieties. If our soil be 
clay we may expect Worcester Pearmain and AUington 
Pippin to do better than Ribston, or even the incom- 
parable Cox's Orange Pippin, although the latter some- 
times does well on clay. Both the Worcester Pearmain 
and the AUington Pippin are good change varieties, and 
may be used for grafting unsatisfactory trees. Where 
Cox's does not thrive it should be grafted with AUington 
Pippin, a more modern and more vigorous variety, but 



VARIETIES OF FRUIT TO CHOOSE 299 

not quite equal to Cox's in flavour. It is unfortu- 
nate that the dehcious Ribston is so capricious and 
fastidious. It is still unmatched for flavour. It makes 
no pretence of thriving on cold, stiff land, and should 
never be planted in quantity on such soil, although 
an odd tree may be tried. It is best to plant it high 
up, and give it a barrow-load of turves, leaf-mould, 
and manure, in order to keep the feeding roots out of 
the clay. 

Although the pear does not rank so high in popular 
estimation as the apple, it is even more esteemed as a 
dessert fruit. A really flavoursome variety, like Doyenne 
du Cornice, or Beurre Hardy, or Marie Louise, or 
Doyenn^ Boussoch at its best (at its worst it is uneatable) 
is a delicious bonne bouche to a good dinner. Pears are 
not more difficult to grow than apples, and there is no 
reason worth considering why a small collection at least 
should not be grown in every garden, unless we are 
burdened with an extraordinary combination of un- 
favourable circumstances, such as low site, exposure, 
and bad soil. 

Perhaps the ideal pear soil is a medium loam, neither 
sandy nor clayey. But pears will thrive on clay if it is 
fertile and well cultivated, especially if they are on the 
shallow-rooting quince stock. The writer has proved 
this to his own complete satisfaction. He has grown 
a large collection of apples and pears successfully as 
cordons on clay. Some varieties did better than others, 
but there was no absolute failure. He took care, in the 
first place, to buy trees from a clay-land nursery ; and 
in the second to give regular winter surface dressings 
of manure, which helped to keep a web of feeding fibres 
near the surface. 

The number of pears is greater, if anything, than 



300 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

that of apples. Here are some of the best known 
varieties : 

Select Dessert Pears 

*Beurre d'Amanlis. *Fertility. 

* ,, Clairgeau. **Marguerite Marrillat. 
„ Diel. Beacon. 

„ d'Aremberg. **Josephine de Malines. 
** „ Hardy. *Durondeau. 

,, Superfin. *Jargonelle. 

**Clapp's Favourite. Seckle. 

**Souvenir du Congres. Marie Benoist. 

Jersey Gratioli. Easter Beurre. 

**Conference. **Marechal de Cour. 
*01ivier de Serres. General Todleben. 

*Bergamotte Esperen. Fondante d'Automne. 

Citron des Carmes. **Emile d'Heyst. 

*Winter Nelis. **WiIliams's Bon Chretien. 
*Thompson's. *Glou Mor9eau. 

**Marie Louise. Duchesse d'AngoGleme. 

Marie Louise d'Uccle. Madame Treyve. 

*Doyenne Boussoch. Zephirin Gregoire. 

** ,, du Cornice. **Louise Bonne of Jersey. 
*Pitmaston Duchess. 

As before, asterisks help us to selections of twenty- 
four and twelve respectively, arranged in order to give 
successions of fruit. It may be confessed, however, that 
the list of twelve has been chosen rather with an eye to 
flavour than vigour. Marie Louise, Doyenne du Comice, 
and Mar^chal de Cour are three of the most delicious 
pears that we have, but they do not thrive in cold, ex- 
posed places. They are safe as cordons, with shelter. 
If specially hardy pears are wanted. Beacon, Beurre de 
Capiaumont, Fertility, and Louise Bonne of Jersey might 
be chosen. 

Culinary pears cannot compare in importance with 
apples, and it is unnecessary to grow more than two. 



VARIETIES OF FRUIT TO CHOOSE 301 

say Catillac and Uvedale's St. Germains. The former 
may have the preference if only one is wanted. It is 
a large, handsome, solid, highly-coloured, long-keeping 
pear. 

Plums must engage our special attention, as it is 
important to get thoroughly reliable varieties of this 
valuable fruit. We know that plums will thrive on 
light, loamy soils, and we know also that they will 
succeed on clay provided it is well managed, particularly 
in regard to manuring the surface. 

Plums are not keeping fruits like apples and pears, 
but we can get a fairly long fruiting season by making 
a wise choice of varieties. 

Select Cooking Plums 

Autumn Compote. *Pond's Seedling. 

*Cox's Emperor. President. 

Diamond. **Rivers's Prolific. 
Early Orleans. The Czar. 

Gisborne's Prolific. **Victoria. 
**Monarch. *White Magnum Bonum. 



Select Dessert Plums 

Angelina Burdett. *Jefferson's. 

*Belgian Purple. *Kirke's. 

Bryanstone Gage. Late Transparent Gage. 

**Coe's Golden Drop. OuUins Golden. 

**Denniston's Superb. Reine Claude de Bavay. 

**Early Transparent Gage. Washington. 

The asterisks give us selections of six and three 
varieties respectively. 

The plum lover often likes to add a damson to his 
collection, and he may choose the variety called Bradley's 
King. 



302 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

Let us now turn to cherries. Here our task will be 
much more easy than it was with apples and pears. 
There are not so many varieties in existence, and if 
there were we should certainly ignore them, because we 
do not want more than three or four. 

Select Cherries 

Bigarreau. *Kentish Red. 
**Black Eagle. May Duke. 

„ Heart. *Morello. 

**Early Rivers. **Napoleon Bigarreau. 

Elton. Waterloo. 

Governor Wood. 

Those marked with two asterisks are excellent dessert 
cherries, and those marked with one asterisk are good 
for cooking and preserving. 

In the chapter on fruit houses we gave ourselves selec- 
tions of peaches and nectarines. So far as the garden is 
concerned, we can only expect success with these fruits 
when they are grown on walls, and shielded from cold 
winds, otherwise they will be killed by " blister." 

The following are relatively hardy varieties : 

Peaches Nectarines 

♦Alexander. *Dryden. 

Amsden June. Hardwicke. 

*Dymond. *Lord Napier. 

Early Grosse Mignonne. Spenser. 

Goshawk. *Stanwick Elruge. 

Princess of Wales. 
*Sea Eagle. 

Stirling Castle. 

Waterloo. 

Those marked with an asterisk might be chosen for 
a selection of three varieties in each case. 



VARIETIES OF FRUIT TO CHOOSE 303 

We shall probably require only one apricot, or two 
at the most, and we will choose Moorpark and Blenheim, 
the former if we only require one. It is apt to die 
away, especially in rich, loose soil, but it is too delicious 
to be passed over. Firm soil, in which lumps of chalk, 
or mortar rubbish, and rubble, play a considerable part, 
is desirable. 

Very few people grow many varieties of the soft 
fruits, although here and there a person is met who 
specialises with gooseberries. 

Select Currants 

Red. White. Black. 

Fay's Prolific. White Dutch. Baldwir^'s. 

Red Dutch. Boskoop Giant. 

Select Gooseberries 

For tarts and preserving. For dessert. 

*Crown Bob. Pitmaston Greengage. 

Keepsake. Red Champagne. 

Lancashire Lad. 

Warrington. 
*Whinham's Industry. 

''^Choose for a selection of ttvo. 

Select Raspberries 

Carter's Prolific (dwarf). Superlative (tall, the best). 

Select Strawberries 

*Givons Late Prolific. *Royal Sovereign. 

St. Joseph (perpetual). Sir Joseph Paxton. 

"^ Choose for tivo. 



CHAPTER V 

PRUNING FRUIT TREES 

It is hoped that the fact has been satisfactorily estab- 
Hshed that fruit growing is thoroughly interesting, and 
when we come to a consideration of pruning we approach 
the most interesting part of it. Pruning is one of those 
fascinating subjects which horticulturists love to write 
about, to read about, to practise, and to disagree upon. 
They argue over both times and methods ; whether 
pruning is best done in autumn, winter, or spring ; 
whether it should be moderate or severe ; whether 
knife or sdcateurs should be employed ; whether newly- 
planted trees should be pruned immediately, a year after 
planting, or not at all, and on many other subjects. 

The first conclusion which the thoughtful person 
comes to, irrespective of any special knowledge which 
he may possess, is that as practical men base their 
arguments on experience, and as experience teaches 
one man a certain thing and another something quite 
different, it follows that pruning is not a matter for 
dogmatism. That is certainly true. A person of limited 
experience might attempt to lay down an unalterable 
law for pruning apples ; but another of wide experience 
would be chary of doing so. The former may have 
observed what follows when a certain set of conditions 
operate, and it may not have occurred to him that a 

different set of conditions may lead to a totally dififerent 

304 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES 305 

result. Unhappily, the dogmatic person often carries 
the sway because he is dogmatic. He is sure of himself, 
the more experienced man is not. The assertiveness 
which admits no qualification is taken for the strength 
of knowledge ; the modesty which hints at compromises 
is regarded as the weakness born of ignorance. 

The folly of dogmatism is most apparent to those 
whose experience is varied enough to teach them the 
wide differences between varieties. Just as some roses 
grow strongly, and need light pruning, while others 
grow weakly and need severe pruning, so some apples 
have far more natural vigour than others, and need 
different treatment. 

We will bear this point in mind in our present 
consideration of the subject of pruning, and give it as 
much weight as we can, consistently with dealing with 
the matter concisely. To individualise every apple 
grown would fill several volumes. 

In speaking of the formation of young trees in an 
earlier chapter, it was mentioned that nurserymen raise 
them by budding and grafting on various selected stocks, 
and cut them back in order to get strong basal growths. 
This early pruning in the nursery garden is general, 
whether bushes, pyramids, standards, fans, or espaliers 
are being formed, and the exceptions to the rule are few. 
Apples, pears, plums, cherries, gooseberries, currants — 
all have an early shortening in order to prevent the 
trees from breaking strongly at the tips and weakly at 
the base. The result of this treatment is that when fruit 
trees reach us from a good nursery, they have several 
branches of medium strength — a strength, however, 
which varies in degree with the variety. And what 
we have to consider is how we shall treat them when 
they come into our hands. Shall we shorten them 

U 



3o6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

again ? If so, to what extent ? Or shall we consider 
that the nurseryman has done all that is necessary in 
this respect ? 

It will help us to understand our subject if we give a 
few moments' consideration to the system of trees, and 
learn to distinguish between the fruiting and the growing 
parts. 

Apples bear mainly on what gardeners call "spurs," 
which are short, thick stumps, furnished with broad, 
plump buds on wood of two years or more old. The 
growing buds of apples are generally situated on the 
young wood, and are thinner and more pointed than the 
fruit buds. The following quahfying statements are 
necessary, however : (i) Fruit buds will develop on 
wood a year, or less than a year, old if summer pruning 
is practised. It must not be taken as an inflexible rule, 
therefore, that apples only fruit on old wood. (2) There 
are a few varieties, e.g. Cornish GiUiflower, Irish Peach, 
and Lady Sudeley, which do not bear on " spurs," in the 
body of the tree, but on the tips of the shoots. (3) When 
apple trees are kept open — that is, free from thick, inter- 
lacing tangles of stem and leaf — and when the growth is a 
happy mean between weakness and luxuriance, and gets 
firm and ripe in summer, fruit buds will form on the 
stems without the formation of "spurs." 

It follows from the foregoing that the first considera- 
tion in pruning an apple is to shape it in such a way as 
to get an even spread of branches that do not cross each 
other ; and that the second is to get moderate vigour of 
wood combined with ripeness. 

As to shape. If we buy a tree three years old from a 
good nurseryman, it will, as we have already seen, have 
been cut back, and have become furnished with a few 
branches — probably six or eight. Let us examine the 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES 307 

tree carefully, and note the vigour and maturity of the 
wood. If the branches are moderately vigorous — say 
from two to two and a half feet long, we can shorten 
them by three parts of their length after planting. 
This will apply to the great majority of varieties. If, 
however, the branches are few in number, and very 
strong, as may be the case with a few highly vigorous 
sorts like Newton Wonder, Emperor Alexander, Bram- 
ley's Seedling, and Blenheim Orange, we shall be wise 
to avoid cutting back, on the ground that it would result 
in too much growth. These extra strong growers are 
generally slow fruiters, and it is root rather than branch 
pruning which they want. The roots ought to be bared 
two years after planting, and strong ones shortened. 

It may certainly be said of apples generally that 
young trees are the better for being shortened after 
planting, even after the nurseryman has done his share. 
The younger the tree the more necessary the shortening 
is. The older the tree the less necessary it is, or ought 
to be. For example, a four or five years old apple 
bought from a good nursery ought to be well furnished 
with fruit " spurs " on the lower parts of the branches, 
and it would be a great pity to cut all these away. It 
is preferable to severely thin the fruit while it is quite 
young the first year, picking off all but half-a-dozen on 
each tree, and those on the lower part of it, not on 
the upper, as there they would hinder free growth, and 
perhaps pull the young tree out of shape. 

People who want fruit at once are averse to early 
pruning. They do not see the necessity of it, and think 
that it retards the fruiting. They are often encouraged 
by seeing or hearing of instances of success with non- 
shortening. But if these cases are inquired into, it will 
generally be found that the soil and situation are ex- 



3o8 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

ceptionally favourable to fruit trees, and cannot fairly 
be taken as guides to general practice. Shortening 
after planting does retard fruiting, but it does so for 
the future benefit of the tree. When fruit trees are 
planted in autumn, the shortening may be done at 
once ; when planted in spring, it should be deferred 
until the buds near the tips of the branches have broken 
into growth. It is a good rule in this, as in all other 
phases of pruning, to cut as close to a bud as possible 
without injuring it, and to cut to a bud on the outside 
of a shoot, not on the inside. 

If apple growers made it a rule to restrict their trees 
to ten or twelve main branches, whether dwarfs or 
standards ; to have those ten or twelve branches at 
least two feet apart midway between base and tip, and 
to have every branch growing outward, far more, and 
far better, fruit would be gathered than is the case now. 
It is not the number of branches, but the character 
of the wood which decides the quantity and quality 
of the fruit. If the wood is firm, ripe, clean, and 
healthy, it is more likely to bear good fruit than if it 
is soft, imripe, and cankery. Thin, outward training 
makes for ripeness and health. Thick, tangled growth 
makes for softness and canker. Ergo: keep your trees 
open. 

When an apple tree is formed, it consists of a given 
number of main branches, and an unlimited quantity 
of small shoots (collectively called " breastwood " by 
gardeners), which break from them in spring. The 
routine pruning consists of the management of this 
breastwood. It has to be cut in, and the reduc- 
tion may be done in two operations, or in one 
only. It consists of two operations when we practise 
summer pruning, of one only when we omit summer 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES 309 

pruning. It may be said of summer pruning that it 
is advisable, but not absolutely necessary. No one 
who has had much experience of summer pruning 
can doubt that it makes for increased fruitfulness. The 
difficulty is, that when the proper time for the operation 
arrives, there is an immense mass of pressing work 
calling for attention, and it is difficult to spare time 
for tasks which, although desirable, are not absolutely 
essential. 

The reason why summer pruning is advisable is 
that it helps the natural process of converting a wood 
bud into a fruit bud. There is generally a bud near 
the base of the summer shoot, and it is a potential fruit 
bud. If the shoot is cut through, or broken off, about 
six leaves from the basal bud in summer, there is a 
concentration of sap on the latter, which helps the 
natural process of development into a fruit bud. There 
is a considerable difference of opinion among fruit 
growers as to the best time for summer pruning, some 
liking to do it in June or early in July, while growth 
is still active ; others about the middle of August, when 
the summer growth is nearly over. The drawback to 
early pruning is, that it often results in fresh growths 
starting from buds above the basal one, and these must 
be stopped in turn, or the object in view would be 
defeated ; thus, summer pruning becomes a twofold 
operation. By deferring the stopping until mid-August 
the grower generally avoids the necessity for a second 
stopping, as there is rarely enough active growing 
energy left to start fresh shoots. 

Summer pruning, which is advisable for nearly all 
apples, is particularly so in the case of those grown 
as cordons, which are so close together that they would 
interlace if no stopping were practised. Espalier and 



3IO THE PERFECT GARDEN 

other trained trees are also greatly benefited by it. 
In autumn or winter the stumps may be cut back close 
to the basal buds, which may be expected to steadily 
become plumper, and to form blossoms in the spring. 

What is termed the winter pruning of apples and 
other fruit trees may be done at any time, from the 
fall of the leaf in autumn to the first swelling of the 
buds in spring. 

There is prejudice on the part of some fruit growers 
against pruning during frosty weather, on the ground 
that the freshly-cut surfaces are liable to injury. The 
danger is a very remote one, and need not cause any 
alarm. It is often a great convenience to prune when 
the ground is hard, especially in the case of clay soils, 
which are best kept away from when wet and soft, 
because they get trodden into a pasty mess — a state 
of affairs which is likely to do far more injury than 
accrues from frost. The fruit grower is wise to get 
his pruning done as early as possible, then he will 
have plenty of time to get his garden cleaned and dug 
before spring comes, with its ceaseless flow of other 
tasks. 

A sharp pruning-knife and pair of secateurs will both 
be useful. On quite small trees, where every branch to 
be cut is easily got at, the knife may be preferred, be- 
cause it makes a slightly cleaner cut, and one with a 
longer slope. But the secateurs will be found extremely 
convenient in the case of larger trees, especially when 
the pruiler is working on a ladder, and requires one 
hand to steady himself upon it. Only a very skilful 
pruner can hold a shoot which he cannot reach, except 
at arm's length, steady with a knife, and cut it through 
neatly and cleanly at the same time ; most pruners 
would make more cuts in their thumb than in the wood. 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES 311 

With secateurs it is easy. Secateurs should be quite 
sharp, or they will grind the face of the cut. It is 
unwise to strain them on very thick shoots ; use a small 
saw instead. The springs and joints should be kept 
well oiled. 

It has been previously remarked that a shoot should 
be cut as close to a bud as possible. It is easy to cut 
so low as to partially undermine the bud, and leave 
it seated insecurely ; but it is equally easy to avoid 
this, and still cut without leaving a long stump above 
the bud. The cut should slope from the bud, not 
towards it. 

For tall trees it is possible to get a pruner mounted 
on long shafts. There is one called Coppin's which does 
its work remarkably well, and can be bought through 
any fruit nurseryman in a fairly large way of business, 
or through the stores. 

Apples need root pruning when they grow very 
strongly, and the wood which they make is so gross and 
unripe as to be unable to mature fruit buds. This state 
of affairs is not at all uncommon with the bulk of the 
sorts grown where the soil is very fertile, and is enriched 
with a great deal of manure. Growers who have good 
fruit land make a double mistake in digging large quanti- 
ties of manure into the holes at planting ; they waste 
manure in the first place, and they waste time through 
the necessity for root pruning which arises in the 
second place. Of course, there are a few sorts of 
apples which naturally grow strongly ; they are over- 
vigorous in all except the poorest soils, and the neces- 
sity for root pruning may arise without any errors 
in over-manuring. 

The necessity for root pruning is easily seen. As 
long as a tree makes moderate growth, and blooms 



312 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

regularly, leave the roots alone ; but if it makes vigorous 
growth, and misses more than one year's flowering, root 
prune. In case any one should feel dubious as to the 
practical interpretation of the terms " moderate " and 
"very vigorous," it may be said that the summer growth 
of an apple tree ought not to exceed thirty inches in 
length ; if it does, it is getting very near to the point 
of luxuriance and softness which means sterility. It 
should be understood that non-blossoming is more often 
a sign of too much vigour than of poor health. A 
debilitated tree will often blossom regularly, but lest 
any one should insist that the logical outcome of this 
is that unhealthy trees are better than healthy ones, the 
waiter would hasten to add that the weak tree may 
quickly die, when it will bear no fruit at all. 

If a small tree is growing too strongly to be fruitful, 
it may be root pruned by the simple process of lifting 
it in winter, trimming any broken roots with a sharp 
knife, cutting through any strong or deep-striking ones, 
and then replanting it. A large tree cannot be disposed 
of quite so easily. The orthodox plan is to cut a trench 
half-way round it, following a radius described by a 
vertical line drawn from the tips of the branches to 
the ground. Any roots which are found may be cut 
through. If none appears when the trench has been 
made eighteen inches deep the pruner must work to- 
wards the bole, because the tree may be on a non- 
dwarfing stock, in which case it will probably have 
some strong roots going down almost in a hne with 
the main stem. These should be shortened. If the 
first pruning does not suffice, the complete circuit of 
the tree can be made by doing the other half the 
following year. 

In the case of a fruit tree against a wall, a trench 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES 313 

may be made three or four feet from the wall, and any 
roots which are found pruned. 

The pruning of pears is somewhat on the same Hnes 
as apples, but the former fruit is an exclusively spur 
bearer, and there need be no exceptions to the rule 
of hard pruning. The trees should be shortened, as 
in the case of apples, to get a sufficient number of 
main branches ; and then the breastwood must be 
pruned annually, preferably first in summer and again 
in winter, but certainly in winter. Root pruning may 
be practised on very vigorous, non-flowering trees in 
the same way as with apples ; but, on the whole, pears 
are not so luxuriant as apples, and are more easily 
kept shapely and fruitful. Old wall pears may often 
be seen crowded with strong spurs, and on the ground 
that it is possible to have too much of a good thing, 
it may be advisable to even prune these, blossom pro- 
ducers though they are. But in all cases the young 
wood which grows out from the spurs must be pruned 
close in annually, as it is of no use for fruit production. 

Plums and damsons are spur-bearing fruits. When 
they are young they are apt to make a great deal of 
gross, immature wood, and consequently to bloom and 
bear badly ; they can be cured of this evil habit by 
root pruning — an operation which they are more likely 
to need than either apples or pears. When they have 
once settled down in firm, not over-rich soil, with 
a framework of ripe wood, plums are very tractable. 
They develop a praiseworthy habit of producing natural 
spurs, or short shoots which at the outset look as if 
they were going to make breastwood, hut which stop 
extending after they have grown a few inches, and 
terminate in a bud. Gardeners call these little shoots 
"stubs," and leave them to develop fruit buds, which 



314 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

they do naturally, without calling for summer or any 
other pruning. Inasmuch as the summer growth of a 
plum consists partly of these stubs, there is generally 
less to be pruned than in the case of either apples or 
pears, and summer pruning is not often needed, except 
in the case of cordons. But such breastwood as does 
form should be pruned in winter, the same as that of 
pears. 

Cherries do not need a great deal of pruning. Like 
plums, they are very apt to grow too strongly when 
young, especially in very rich soil. The grower should 
add lump chalk or mortar rubbish to the soil ; it is 
likely to do the trees more good than manure. If 
root pruning becomes necessary owing to excessive 
vigour it should be done quickly, as it is very desirable 
to get cherries well furnished with fruitful wood at the 
outset. When they are shaped early, deprived of any 
superfluous branches in summer, and root pruned to 
curb exuberance, they need very little pruning, as they 
form spurs and single fruit buds all along their main 
branches with the greatest freedom, and form only a 
moderate amount of breastwood. Differing from the 
" heart " cherries, the Morello is a young wood bearer, 
and should only have the breastwood pruned to the 
extent of securing neatness. Wholesale reduction would 
mean loss of crop. 

The pruning of peaches and nectarines was referred 
to under indoor fruit, where it was pointed out that the 
trees are best grown fan-shaped, and that this form is 
secured by early shortening, and the selection of shoots 
starting from the base to form the ribs of the fan. 
These branches may be about a foot apart half-way 
from the base ; the space between will serve for the 
breastwood, on which the fruit is borne, for the peach 



PRUNING FRULT TREES 315 

is not a spur but a young wood bearer. The pruner 
will not retain every piece of breastwood that grows 
on a healthy tree, or he would have the wall crowded 
with shoots. He will first cut out all that spring from 
the front of the branches, and consequently stick straight 
out from the wall. These, which are termed "foreright " 
shoots, are of no use, because they could not be tied in 
to the wires along the face of the wall without being 
twisted. There will be, or ought to be, plenty without 
them, growing from the upper or lower side of the ribs, 
and consequently in convenient positions for being tied 
in. A fruiting shoot would throw out a number of side 
shoots in turn if it were permitted to do so, but it must 
not have that privilege. All the growth buds except two, 
one at the base and one at the tip, should be removed 
directly they start growing in spring. The process is 
termed "disbudding," and prevents the shoot from 
wasting its strength on unnecessary wood. The bud 
at the tip is allowed to remain because, in growing, it 
encourages a good flow of sap along the shoot, and 
this nourishes the fruit. The bud at the base is left 
because a fresh shoot is needed for fruiting the following 
year. When the fruit has been gathered, the shoot that 
bore it is pruned back to the basal shoot, which is tied 
in to take its place. There is, therefore, an annual 
routine of peach-pruning, this consisting of disbudding, 
and removing fruiting wood. 

Peaches are apt to grow too strongly when young. 
Rich soil should be avoided, and root pruning should be 
resorted to if the trees do not flower. 

Apricots are almost exclusively grown on walls. 
They need practically the same treatment as plums. 

Of the soft fruits, gooseberries (mainly) and red 
currants are spur-bearers, thriving best with a limited 



3i6 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

number of branches quite clear of each other, with 
summer pruning, and with winter spurring. As a rule, 
bushes are hardly thought worthy of the time taken up 
in summer pruning, and therefore receive only one 
cutting, in winter. Special sorts grown as cordons on 
walls or fences are generally summer pruned, and yield 
very fine fruit. Black currants are not spur bearers, 
and only need old fruited wood cut out ; the young 
should not be pruned in, but left intact. 

Raspberries, blackberries, and the loganberry, should 
be deprived of the old canes after the fruit has been 
gathered. The young canes that have grown during 
summer will give the following year's fruit. 



PART V 

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



CHAPTER I 

WHY WE SHOULD GROW VEGETABLES 

For reasons that are not altogether clear, vegetables 
are supposed to occupy a lower place among cultivated 
plants than flowers and fruit. A cabbage is a species 
of stock jest, like a London policeman. If a turnip 
appeared on the stage it would be in some humorous 
capacity, connected with a rustic character of the type 
of William Worm, who always had a "fizzing" in his 
head. 

It is for this reason, perhaps, that many people who 
form gardens do not think it worth while to make any 
provision for a kitchen garden. Flowers, of course ; fruit, 
if possible ; but vegetables, no, unless someone about 
the place is prepared to make himself responsible for 
them — "to have the bother of them," as it is put. 

There is one member of the community who does 
not take this view, and that is the cottage gardener. He 
is invariably a great man for vegetables. He likes to 
fill up every square inch of ground that he has with 
potatoes, beans, carrots, and various other kinds. He 
may be an agricultural labourer, working from six in 
the morning till six at night in the fields ; no matter, 
he will manage to squeeze an hour or two a day into 
his vegetable plot. Of course Hodge has a reason for 
this. He has a large and hungry family, and not much 
money to buy food with. A capacious dish of boiled 



320 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

or baked potatoes goes a long way towards taking the 
edge off the appetites of his children. Then there is 
the village flower show, where he manages to pick up a 
pound or two in prizes, and that helps him along with 
the boots and frocks. 

The town artisan, who earns higher wages, is not as a 
rule quite so keen on vegetables as the country man, 
nor is the small amateur. Both of these classes are 
given to specialising with a particular flower, such as 
the dahlia. Altogether, the poor vegetable has to play 
the part of Cinderella. 

There is really a considerable amount of interest 
in vegetable-growing, for those who like to regard it 
scientifically. They find interest in many phases of it — 
in the effect of various fertilisers, in the comparison 
of different varieties, in the production of early crops, 
and in the cultivation of kinds that are not generally 
purchasable in the markets. It is really very desirable 
that more interest should be taken in the subject, 
because there would then be some prospect of raising 
the standard of vegetable cookery in Great Britain, which 
is now deplorably low. As long as the public merely 
regards vegetables as relishes, like salt or sauce, and takes 
no real interest in them, it is useless to expect that they 
will be well cooked. 

It is appalling to see the horrible messes that pass 
muster for vegetable dishes, even in good-class restaurants, 
in England ; and far from things getting better they seem 
to get worse. The public would not tolerate it for a 
moment in the case of meats or fish ; why with vege- 
tables ? This is, of course, a stale story, but what can 
the writer do but repeat it who has a strong sense of 
the value of vegetables ? However reluctant he may 
be to indulge in platitudes, he feels that he cannot 



WHY WE GROW VEGETABLES 321 

very well help himself. His view is that if vegetables 
are regarded as being good enough, either from the point 
of view of nourishment or flavour, to be put on the 
dinner-table in every class of household in the country, 
as is the case at the present time, they ought to be thought 
worthy of being both grown and cooked well. 

The cultured classes generally put the blame for ill- 
grown and ill-cooked vegetables on to gardeners and 
cooks. On the face of it this seems fair enough. As 
gardeners are paid to grow vegetables, and cooks are 
paid to cook them, it is surely reasonable to expect them 
to do their respective duties well. But there is more 
than this in it. Employers should understand by now 
that the gardener class and the cook class often take their 
cue from those who pay them, and may not work to a 
higher standard than is set for them. When things go 
so radically wrong that they become intolerable, and 
the master of the house raises a storm, the gardener 
and the cook blame each other, each striving to prove 
that the other is in fault, and doubtless each equally con- 
vinced that there is no personal blame in the matter at 
all. The unhappy mistress emerges badly from this war ; 
not knowing enough about vegetable-growing to test the 
capacity of the gardener, nor of vegetable-cookery to 
fathom the qualifications of the cook, she wrings her 
hands over the compound ineptitude of the lower orders, 
and goes on again, hoping for the best, but fearing for the 
worst. The proper remedy is to learn a little about the 
vegetables — what they ought to be like when well grown, 
and what they ought to taste like when properly cooked. 
It does not suffice to comment on the superior quality 
of the vegetables that have been eaten on the Continent. 
We cannot carry the Continental grower and cook back 
with us, and if we could they might get demoralised 

X 



j 



322 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

quickly by our national slackness in the matter of 
vegetables. 

We ought to grow vegetables, and grow them well, 
because they are valuable and wholesome food. We 
may all turn vegetarians if we like, but we need not 
do that to understand and appreciate vegetables. As a 
matter of fact, we do not always meet with good and well- 
cooked vegetables at the vegetarian restaurants by any 
means. Most of these establishments are apt to make 
too much of special concoctions that they call "vege- 
tarian turkey," and so forth, and to give insufftcient 
attention to plain vegetable dishes. Experience may 
have taught them that the best way of advancing their 
cause is to ape the animal kingdom with their dishes, 
but it hardly appears that this is justifiable if it means 
that they are not doing all they ought to be able to do 
to improve vegetable cookery, and to lead to more atten- 
tion being given to plain, wholesome vegetable dishes 
which the majority of people can copy in their homes. 

The analyses of fresh vegetables do not show that 
they are nourishing to the same extent as meat. In 
particular they are wanting in albuminoids, but the 
person who is not contemplating a purely vegetarian 
dietary need not trouble about that, because he is not 
proposing to substitute them for meat dishes. He is 
fond of vegetables, he believes them to be good for him, 
and he is satisfied to eat them in conjunction with meat. 
If this is not enough for the vegetarian protagonist, 
he must take his own measures for remedying it. It 
abundantly satisfies the majority of people. The pulses 
(peas and beans) are highly nourishing, and potatoes 
are of no mean value. But we must not assess the 
worth of vegetables purely by the amount of pectose 
and albumen that they yield under analysis. We must 



WHY WE GROW VEGETABLES 323 

allow for the importance of their juices, which is con- 
siderable. The writings of Mr. Eustace Miles are pro- 
bably of more value than any analyses of vegetables 
that have ever been made. The tomato is a most valuable 
food, apart altogether from its analysis, and the same 
may be said of celery, onions, carrots, beetroot, and even 
the modest cabbage. 

It is not suggested that the cultured classes should 
devote their attention to potatoes and other important 
crops alone. There are many vegetables which are 
erroneously classed as minor ones. They are really 
only minor vegetables from the point of view of the 
cottager, or any other class which demands large bulks 
of certain things that can be grown quickly and cheaply. 
To the classes that can afford to grow selected vege- 
tables in small quantities, they are important. Among 
these may be mentioned such things as the turnip- 
rooted celery, witloef chicory, salsify, seakale beet, 
chards, and asparagus. The cottager may have to do 
without them, but that is no reason why other classes 
should. 

The question of flavour in vegetables ought to receive 
special attention. Few people realise what differences 
there are between the varieties in this respect. Some 
sorts of apples have delicious flavour, others are common- 
place ; and it is the same with peas and beans, potatoes, 
and even cabbages. Well, why should we not learn the 
superiority of one pea over another, just as we do the 
superiority of one apple over another ? This is a clear 
case for experimental work, and it ought to be always 
going on, because improvements are being made con- 
stantly. To take the green pea as an example, the vege- 
table has been completely revolutionised during the past 
twenty years, yet there are plenty of gardeners who 



324 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

know nothing whatever about the good work that has 
been done, and who still grow the same peas that they 
did a quarter of a century ago. It is absurd to grow 
a pea of poor flavour when one of good flavour can 
be got just as cheaply. One might as well eat a tough 
old fowl of many summers when one could get a spring 
chicken. 



CHAPTER II 

A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 

A COMPLETE kitchen garden must contain given propor- 
tions of vegetables (differing in quality with the character 
of the establishment), as well as representatives of special 
crops, such as those mentioned in the previous chapter. 
Are we going to grow all the vegetables that will 
be required for the household during the whole year 
in the garden, and is our household one consisting of 
several hungry children, as well as two, three, or more 
servants ? If so, we shall want at least half an acre 
of ground. But perhaps we prefer to buy the main 
supply of potatoes off some selected soil, in order to serve 
the double purpose of economising ground and getting 
special flavour ? The latter is a course that should 
always be considered when the soil is too stiff to grow 
potatoes of the best flavour, and more especially when 
space is limited. It is doubtful if it pays to grow 
potatoes, because they can be bought as cheaply as 
they can be grown, except, perhaps, in the case of the 
first crop. Very early potatoes are generally dear, and 
it may answer to grow them in any case : moreover, 
early potatoes, which are generally small-topped sorts, 
do not take up an equal amount of room with the 
same number of rows of a late sort. If there is plenty 
of ground available, if an interest is felt in the crop, 
and if the soil is of a light, porous character, grow 
the whole of the potato supply by all means. In other 



326 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

circumstances, and particularly if the soil is very heavy, 
be satisfied with growing a few rows of earlies, and buy 
the bulk of the supplies from good potato land — for 
instance, from the neighbourhood of Dunbar in Scot- 
land, from Spalding in Lincolnshire, or from York. The 
potato is not like many vegetables — it is not necessary to 
have it fresh out of the soil to have it of good flavour. 

The question whether other vegetables can be bought 
with advantage in the same way as potatoes, depends 
upon circumstances. One often grudges the room taken 
up by the coarser green vegetables, such as cabbages, 
savoys, and brussels sprouts ; on the other hand, it 
has to be remembered that these are very poor in 
flavour unless perfectly fresh. If there is no supply 
except what is brought from a distance, and which 
cannot be eaten until it is a day old, it will be best to 
grow what is wanted. In most rural districts there 
is no difficulty w^hatever in getting all the plain vege- 
tables which are in season perfectly fresh, and at very 
moderate prices. 

Wherever space is limited, and labour is scarce, it 
is wise to carefully consider all the circumstances before 
making a large kitchen garden. But if we do decide 
to do it, let us do it well. The orthodox kitchen garden 
is surrounded by walls. These are not built for the 
vegetables, but for the support of fruit-trees and glass- 
houses ; however, they prove valuable for vegetables as 
well as fruit. In front of them we form wide borders, 
on which we grow early crops. The inner border under 
the wall on the north side of the garden will have a 
south aspect, consequently it will be an excellent place 
for bringing on early things. We can push on early 
peas in a vinery, planting them outdoors in May, and 
thus secure much earlier crops than we should be likely 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 327 

to get by sowing in the open air. Decidedly the walls and 
the houses are a great advantage ; but, as we saw in our 
fruit section, a good wall may cost ^400 an acre, and 
this is more than everybody can afford. 

If we are not going to the expense of walls, we must 
provide our garden with the shelter of a close fence or 
hedge. Why shelter at all, it may be asked ? Look 
what capital vegetables the allotment-holder often pro- 
duces without a vestige of shelter. Yes, he does ; but 
it is not often that he gets them early. It all — or nearly 
all — turns on that. We must have shelter if we are 
going to strive for early crops. If we have no thought 
of special earliness in our minds it is a different matter, 
and we may well save ourselves the expense of shelter. 

Whether or not we have glass-houses, we ought 
certainly to have one or two frames, preferably two, 
because in the latter case we can put a hotbed under 
one and use the other for hardening off plants which 
have been raised in heat. Thus, we can raise and harden 
tomatoes, celery, vegetable marrows, and a good many 
half-hardy and tender flowers. And here is a point : 
kitchen gardens nowadays often contain borders of 
flowers, which brighten them up and render them more 
attractive in the eyes of those who can never bring 
themselves to see sufficient interest in vegetables' to 
render the kitchen garden worth visiting for its own 
sake. We saw how useful frames were, and the approxi- 
mate cost of them, in an earlier chapter. (See General 
Index for page reference.) 

If a portion of the potatoes is bought, a quarter of 
an acre of ground will suffice to grow sufficient vege- 
tables to keep half-a-dozen people well supplied through- 
out the year. Let us consider how we can lay it out to 
the best advantage. 



328 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

We will first of all make provision for permanent 
crops, including a few of the choice things which so often 
get crowded out. There is asparagus, for instance. Two 
beds, each 4 feet wide by 12 feet long, will give an ade- 
quate supply if the soil is suitable — that is, light and 
friable, but fertile. If the soil is thin and poor, and 
especially if it overlies chalk, or if it is very heavy 
clay, it is not naturally suited to asparagus, and in view 
of probable lighter crops, it will be wise to allow more 
space — say half as much again. We will deal with 
culture presently. 

Next comes seakale. This is as often lifted for 
forcing as cut from the ground, but in whatever way 
it is to be used, we must make provision for a good 
quantity. We might allow the same area for it as for 
asparagus, with the same condition of allotting more 
or less ground in accordance with the character of the 
soil. The necessity for this may not be apparent 
to people of limited experience, who will argue that 
all kinds of soil may be made equally suitable by culti- 
vation ; but those who have had much to do with 
asparagus and seakale know quite well that it is im- 
possible to make a stiff soil as good as a friable one. 

The third of the permanent crops to be mentioned 
is rhubarb ; and this, like seakale, may be required for 
indoor as well as for outdoor forcing. If the demand 
is considerable, especially for roots to be lifted and 
forced indoors, we may well allot the same space as 
for the asparagus and seakale. It cannot be said, how- 
ever, that the case for increased space on strong soil, 
in consequence of lighter cropping, holds good, because 
rhubarb thrives famously on heavy land ; if anything, 
indeed, the reverse holds, and we ought to give the most 
space to rhubarb on the lightest land, where it will 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 329 

not grow so vigorously, nor crop so heavily, as on cooler 
and more holding soil. 

The three most important of the permanent crops 
are now provided for. The other forcing vegetable, 
chicory, will do with considerably less space. Two 
varieties are generally offered by seedsmen — namely, 
the common, and the large-rooted witloef. The latter 
is the splendid vegetable so extensively forced in 
Belgium. It is so fine as to rival seakale in size, and 
it is every bit as valuable an early vegetable, having a 
distinct and agreeable flavour of its own. The roots, 
as we shall see presently, are grown from seed, and 
lifted for forcing indoors. It may, indeed, be treated 
as an annual crop, the same as seakale sometimes is. 

The Globe artichoke is a permanent crop, and the 
Jerusalem, or tuberous-rooted, is often treated as such, 
being allowed to remain undisturbed — except in so far 
as taking up roots for use when wanted is concerned — 
from year to year. As a matter of fact, it is better 
to treat it as an annual, the same as beetroot. If both 
kinds of artichoke are wanted, we ought to give the 
Globe a bed twelve feet square, and the Jerusalem four 
feet by twelve feet. 

The remaining permanent crops are horseradish and 
herbs. Except in the case of a large establishment, with 
a very marked partiality for roast beef, half-a-dozen 
roots of horseradish will suffice, and they may be 
accommodated in any unoccupied corner. Beware, 
however, of forgetting them, because they may spread 
until they become as great a nuisance as any weed. 
It is a good plan to have a large bed of the various 
important herbs, such as mint, sage, thyme, marjoram, 
basil, tarragon, and savory, keeping them to themselves. 
A bed eight feet by twelve will accommodate plenty of 



330 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



each, and it may be surrounded with a border of parsley, 
which will impart an air of neatness and finish, as well 
as prove useful in itself. ^ 

Having provided for the permanent crops, we may 
turn to the annual ones, which include such important 
things as potatoes, peas, beans, celery, greens, carrots, 
beetroot, parsnips, leeks, and tomatoes. These are 
called annuals because they are grown as such ; in 
reality some of them are biennial or perennials. 

It is a good plan to class them in four sections, 
because a rotation system can then be arranged. An 
exact rotation is not feasible in small gardens, where 
potatoes are grown in a much larger proportion than 
the other classes, but it is quite practicable when an 
early supply only is grown, because the few rows re- 
quired will not take up any more room than is occupied 
by the other sections, and will fit in with them. 

We might make four sections, and arrange a four 
course rotation, as follows : — 



Section i. 


Section 2. 


Section 3. 


Section 4. 


1st year. 

Peas, beans, 
celery, leeks. 


1st year. 
Roots. 


1st year. 

Greens, and 
onions. 


1st year. 
Potatoes. 


2ndyear. 
Roots, 


2nd year. 
Greens, &c. 


2tid year. 
Potatoes. 


2nd year. 
Peas, &c. 


J,rd year. 

Greens, and 
onions. 


"^rd year. 
Potatoes. 


irdyear. 
Peas, &c. 


p-d year. 
Roots. 


4/A year. 
Potatoes. 


4M year. 
Peas, &c. 


^h year. 
Roots. 


4M year. 
Greens, &c. 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 331 

Perhaps another plan will show the same idea a little 
more clearly : — 



1st Year . . • 


A 

Peas, 
beans, 
celery, 

leeks. 


B 

Beetroot, 
carrots, 

parsnips, 
salsify, and 
scorzonera. 


C 

Greens, 
onions. 


D 

Potatoes. 


2nd Year . . 


B 


C 


D 


A 


3rd Year . . 


C 


D 


A 


B 


4th Year . . " 


D 


A 


B 


C 



It will be seen that our four sections are respectively 
(1) Peas, beans, leeks, and celery ; (2) Beetroot, carrots, 
parsnips, salsify, and scorzonera ; (3) Greens and onions ; 
(4) Potatoes, 

Manure can be saved by adopting this plan. A piece 
of ground manured one year for peas, beans, and celery, 
need not be manured the following year for the root 
crops ; it should be manured again the third year for 
the greens and onions, but will only need a light dressing 
of chemical manure for potatoes in the fourth season. 

Like every other system of rotation cropping in a 
small garden, this is liable to be upset, and it may be 
well to take each section individually, and consider the 
worst that can happen to it. 

"A" is not likely to give any trouble at all. The 
peas and beans will be cleared off in summer and 
autumn ; in fact, a crop of spinach or late turnips 
can be taken from the same piece of ground, and still 
avoid any interference with the succeeding crop of roots. 



332 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

It is true that the celery and leeks may not all be used 
up when the time comes to prepare the ground for the 
roots, but what remain can be easily taken up and laid 
in earth in a spare corner of the garden, or even put 
into a shed or cellar. 

"B" will not give any trouble either. All the roots 
will be lifted in autumn except the parsnips, and per- 
haps the scorzonera. It is wise to leave the parsnips 
in the ground all the winter, but if any remain when 
the ground is wanted in spring, they can be lifted and 
laid in an out-of-the-way place. 

"C" may prove rather embarrassing. If we used 
it for cauliflowers and summer or autumn cabbages 
alone in the way of green vegetables there would be 
no trouble, because they would come off the ground 
before winter. But it is customary to follow onions 
with spring cabbages, which are planted in October, 
and those are not always ready to come off when the 
time comes to plant the potatoes, which are arranged 
to succeed them in the following spring. Again, if 
winter greens are planted on " C," the later kinds, such 
as broccoli and kale, are rarely finished before potato- 
planting time comes. The same difficulty occurs if 
the not uncommon plan of planting winter greens 
between potato rows is followed. The potatoes are 
cleared off in summer or autumn, the winter greens 
stand through the winter, and the later varieties of 
them will not be used up before April or May, thus 
tending to interfere with the next crop. Little hitches 
of this kind are unavoidable in any system of rotation 
cropping. The exercise of common sense generally 
suffices to get over them. 

Section "D" will be quite straightforward if potatoes 
are grown by themselves, because they will be lifted 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN ^^t, 

in summer or autumn, leaving the ground free for a 
" catch " crop, such as late peas, coleworts, or turnips, 
which will also come off in time to leave the quarter 
free for the succeeding crop — peas, beans, celery, and 
leeks. If winter greens are planted between the potatoes 
the case is altered, as already mentioned. 

It will be seen that in the rotation mentioned the 
green and root crops come on the ground in alternate 
years, and that the principle is to manure for the former 
and not for the latter. Fibrous rooted green crops, like 
peas, beans, celery, leeks, cabbages, cauliflowers, and 
onions, are benefited by liberal dressings of manure ; 
but beetroot, carrots, and parsnips, the eatable portion 
of which is below ground, are not. As to potatoes, 
yard manure undoubtedly increases the crop, but is 
liable to lead to disease, and hence the recommendation 
to put the crop on a piece of ground that was well 
manured the previous year, and to use chemical manures 
(the kinds and quantities of which will be recommended 
later) for the potatoes. 

In view of the difficulty which sometimes arises — for 
instance, when potatoes are grown in a much larger 
proportion than the other sections mentioned — in 
maintaining a system of rotations, it may be consolatory 
to learn that less importance is attached to them by 
experts now than was the case in days gone by. The 
attitude of growers is rather that rotations are desirable 
than that they are essential. It is established that when 
the ground is thoroughly cultivated, and brought into 
good mechanical condition, excellent crops are possible, 
even when a proper system of rotations is not practised. 
Everything turns upon the cultivation. Poor, shallow 
soil, or stiff soil not properly broken up, will hardly give 
a good crop of any particular vegetable one year, much 



334 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



less two or three years in succession. But if the soil 
is dug to a depth of eighteen inches, and well manured, 
it will do both. The moral of this, of course, is that 
the kitchen gardener should make the preparation of 
the soil his first consideration. He should attack it 
as early in autumn as he can ; but if it is not acquired 
until spring, it is not of any great consequence, because 
spring working answers well. As a matter of fact, many 
good vegetable-growers prefer spring to autumn work- 
ing, especially with clay soil ; but inasmuch as there 
is generally more time available in autumn and winter, 
it should be done then if possible. The under soil can 
only be broken up after taking off the top layer, so that 
it is well to operate in strips. If top and bottom layers 
are dug over in turn to the full depth of a large spade 
or fork, and a coat of manure is put between them, the 
soil will be greatly improved. When starting with a 
fresh piece of ground, it is well to treat it all in this 
way for a start, bringing the modifications suggested in 
the remarks on rotations into play in future years. 

A complete kitchen garden will contain the following 
crops, which are placed in alphabetical order : 



Artichokes. 


Chicory. 


Salads.2 


Asparagus. 


Cucumbers. 


Salsify. 


Beans. 


Herbs.i 


Savoys. 


Beetroot. 


Horseradish. 


Scorzonera. 


Borecole. 


Leeks. 


Seakale. 


Broccoli. 


Mushrooms. 


Shallots. 


Brussels Sprouts. 


Onions. 


Spinach. 


Cabbages. 


Parsnips. 


Tomatoes. 


Carrots. 


Peas. 


Turnips. 


Cauliflowers. 


Potatoes. 


Vegetable Marrows. 


Celery. 


Rhubarb. 





' The principal herbs are mint, parsley, sage, and thyme. 

* The principal salads are endive, lettuces, mustard and cress, and radishes. 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 335 

The cheapest way of buying a stock of seed is in 
the form of a "collection." All seedsmen offer collec- 
tions (the contents of which they often specify) on very 
low terms. But vegetable seeds are quite cheap nowa- 
days, and they may be ordered separately if desired. 
It is difficult to advise as to the quantity of each, 
because so much turns on the amount of ground avail- 
able, and the size of the family, but the following hints 
may be useful. 

Artichokes are not in great demand, and are often 
omitted from small gardens, partly because they are 
not especially esteemed, and partly because they take 
up a great deal of ground. The Globe artichoke, of 
which the edible part is the large, firm flower-heads, 
is raised from seed in the first place, and then further 
propagated, if desired, by suckers. Half an ounce of 
seed will be ample. The crop of the Jerusalem arti- 
choke is the root, which has a flavour of its own, and 
is close and starchless. The majority of people do 
not care for it. It is propagated by tubers, which 
seedsmen sell. A peck will plant a fairly long row, 
as the tubers need not be planted closer than a foot 
apart. 

Asparagus is raised from seed, but those who want 
to cut within a year must buy roots, and strong ones 
at that. Asparagus is raised from seed easily enough, 
but plants will not be ready to cut from for three years 
at least. Half an ounce of seed will give enough plants 
to fill several beds. In buying roots (technically termed 
" crowns ") those three years old should be purchased, 
and planted fifteen inches apart. 

Beans are classed in three sections : broad, dwarf 
French, and scarlet runner. A pint of broad beans 
will make a row twelve yards long, a pint of dwarf 



336 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

French rather more — say fifteen yards — a pint of 
runners twenty-five yards. 

An ounce of beetroot seed will sow two rows of 
fifteen feet each. 

Borecole, broccoli, brussels sprouts, savoys, and 
cabbages are not sown in rows, where the plants are 
to develop, like beans and beetroot, but in short rows 
on a spare plot, whence the seedlings are transplanted 
later on. Half an ounce of seed should produce 
several hundreds of plants. Dealers generally offer 
small packets which yield two or three hundred plants 
each. 

An ounce of carrot seed will suffice for four rows, 
each twenty feet long, and this should be enough for 
small families, as the roots are not in daily demand, but 
are used as a change. 

Cauliflowers are treated the same as the other green 
vegetables just mentioned, and consequently the same 
remarks apply to them. 

Celery seed is sown in boxes or pots under glass, 
and the plants put out afterwards. A seedsman's 
''packet" will yield many hundreds of plants. 

Chicory is sown in spring, and the roots lifted in 
autumn for forcing. Half an ounce of seed will produce 
abundance. 

It is not often that a large number of cucumber 
plants are wanted, and a seedsman's packet generally 
gives plenty. It may only contain twelve seeds, but 
every one may be expected to germinate, and twelve 
cucumber plants are enough for most people. 

Herbs may be raised from seed, which is sold in 
packets. Sage is often propagated by cuttings, and mint 
by root divisions. 

Horseradish may be raised from seed at the outset. 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 337 

but when there is any on the place it is usually propa- 
gated by root cuttings. 

Leeks are raised from seed, and half an ounce 
should yield several hundred plants. This crop is often 
sown like the greens, and transplanted. 

Mushrooms are grown from " spawn," which is sold 
in bricks by the bushel. The bricks are broken up into 
small portions. A bushel will do a fairly large bed. 

An ounce of onion seed should sow ten rows of 
fifteen to twenty feet long each. If the seed is sown 
under glass, and the seedlings transplanted, it will do 
more. 

An ounce of parsnip seed will sow four rows, each 
twenty-five feet long. 

A pint of peas will sow three rows, each twenty feet 
long. 

Potatoes are not, as a rule, raised from seed, but from 
sets, which are planted about two feet by one foot apart 
in the case of early varieties, and twenty-eight inches by 
fourteen inches in the case of late varieties ; conse- 
quently, from a hundred to one hundred and thirty-six 
sets will be required per square rod. Potato sets are 
sold by the bushel of about fifty-six pounds, and there 
are, on an average, twelve sets to the pound. 

The remarks made in connection with asparagus 
apply, in part, to rhubarb. It is raised from seed readily 
enough, but three years may elapse before the plants 
are strong enough to be pulled from. Those who want 
quick produce buy strong roots, and plant them about 
a yard apart all ways. 

Of the salads, endive and lettuces are generally sown 
in reserve plots (or under glass for early crops) and 
transplanted. Mustard and cress and radishes are sown 
where they are to develop. Packets generally suffice 



338 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

of the two first named ; but ounces, or even pints, may 
be ordered of the others, if constant successions are 
required. 

Salsify and scorzonera are sown where they are to 
grow, hke parsnips and carrots. Half an ounce will 
suffice for three rows, twelve feet long, of each. 

Seakale can be raised from seed, but it takes three 
years to get strong forcing crowns, and many persons 
prefer to buy the latter in preference to waiting. Strong, 
prepared crowns can be forced at once. When a stock 
of plants has been secured, it can be increased by means 
of root cuttings. 

Shallots are not ready for use until the second year 
if raised from seed, and consequently they are generally 
grown from bulbs, which are bought by the pound in 
spring, and planted twelve inches apart by nine. A 
pound may contain from twenty to thirty bulbs ; the 
number varies. 

Spinach is generally sown as a catch crop between 
peas, and as it is a useful vegetable, and very cheap, 
successions may be sown. An ounce of seed will sow 
twenty-five yards of row. 

Tomatoes are raised from seed under glass, and 
planted out. A packet will yield two or three hundred 
plants. 

Turnips, like spinach, are very cheap, and being a 
useful "catch" crop between peas and beans, may be 
sown frequently from February or March to October. 
An ounce of seed will sow five rows, each ten yards long. 

Vegetable marrows are sold in packets of a few 
seeds ; as in the case of cucumbers, every seed may be 
expected to grow, and only a few plants are required 
in most cases. The seed is sown under glass, and the 
plants transplanted. 



A COMPLETE KITCHEN GARDEN 339 

The quantities suggested in the above remarks are 
carefully arranged to provide for thin seeding, which 
is desirable, not only in economising seed, but in giving 
strong plants. It is quite easy, of course, to use twice 
as much seed for a given length of row as is specified 
here, but the vegetable-grower should guard against it. 



CHAPTER III 

HOW TO GROW THE PRINCIPAL VEGETABLES 

We have gone a long way towards success in the culti- 
vation of vegetables when we have learned how to 
improve our soil, and how to sow in the proper quanti- 
ties. These two important matters were touched upon 
in the previous chapter, and we may now select a few 
of the principal kinds, and refer to certain details which 
it is desirable we should know. 

Artichokes 

The different types of artichoke are entirely dis- 
similar. The Globe forms a spreading bush, and its 
large, firm, green or purple flower-heads, of about the 
size of large lemons, are eaten. They are of delicate 
and pleasing flavour. The cultivation of Globe arti- 
chokes cannot be recommended in small gardens, 
where space is very valuable, because the yield is small 
in proportion to the space the plants occupy. They 
are raised from seed in spring. By pruning in summer, 
young growths may be induced to push, and when 
blanched they form a very agreeable dish called 
chards. 

The Jerusalem artichoke has a tuberous root. It 
crops abundantly, and is a far more economical plant 
than the Globe, but it is not everybody who likes the 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 341 

flavour of the close, earthy, starchless tubers, and those 
who do may not possess digestive organs equal to assimi- 
lating them. The plant is easily grown. A row may 
be planted in any out-of-the-way spot. The soil should 
be well deepened, but not heavily manured. The tubers 
may be set a foot apart. 

There is a third artichoke — the Chinese — a much 
smaller plant than the other two, and very distinct in 
every way. The roots are the edible part, but they are 
not in the least like the Jerusalem. They are small, 
cylindrical, and spiral. The flavour is agreeable. It 
may be grown successfully in deep, cool soil if the 
tubers ire planted nine inches apart in a row in spring. 

Asparagus 

We have seen that asparagus may be raised from 
seed, and also that crowns can be purchased. A person 
who sets out to raise his own asparagus should sow the 
seed in a drill about the middle of April, and cover it 
with an inch of soil. By October, when growth will 
probably cease for the year, the plants will range from 
a foot to two feet high, and have a nice mass of fibrous 
roots. In spring they may be set out six inches apart 
in rows two feet asunder. They will rapidly increase 
in size, and the following spring — that is, two years from 
the sowing — they may be planted in the beds. If the 
plants are very strong, they may be put into the beds 
at the end of the first year. 

Old-time asparagus-growers used to make these beds 
in a very elaborate way. The fact that the plant dislikes 
a damp, close subsoil, led them to suppose that it was 
necessary to build up the bed on a superstructure of 
drainage material. There is no such necessity, except 



342 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

in the case of clay soil. Even in stiff land the writer 
has found that it will suffice if a wide alley about a foot 
deep is made between each pair of beds, and the soil 
removed is thrown left and right, so raising the ground 
level on each side, provided that the land is not water- 
logged in winter. If the beds are made four feet wide 
there will be plenty of room for two rows of plants, each 
about fifteen inches from the outer edges, thus leaving 
eighteen inches in the centre. The crowns may be 
eighteen inches apart in the rows, and may be covered 
four inches deep. Great care must be taken to prevent 
the fleshy roots from getting dry during the planting. 
They ought not to be left lying about in the sun for 
several days before they are put in. 

In the autumn, after the growth has died and been 
removed, the beds may be covered with seaweed, if 
procurable economically, and if the land is light. In 
the case of heavy soil, it will be better to mix decayed 
manure and burnt refuse together and spread them on. 
In spring the bed may be dressed with salt (except in the 
case of stiff, wet land) at the rate of a quarter of a pound 
per square yard, or with nitrate of soda at the rate of 
one ounce per square yard. 

If the plants are two years old at the time of planting, 
the bed may be cut from in the spring of the following 
year ; if only one year old, in the spring of the second 
year after planting. No roots under three years old 
should ever be lifted for forcing, and only then if they 
are thoroughly strong. Those who force asparagus 
ought to have fresh supplies of plants always coming 
on, so that the forced roots can be thrown away when 
the crop has been taken. 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 343 



Beans 

Broad beans are a toothsome, if somewhat coarse 
vegetable. They are very hardy, and very easily grown. 
They like a rich, cool, moist soil, not a shallow, poor, 
dry one. They may be sown three inches deep, six 
inches apart, and in rows two feet asunder, in November, 
and again in February, March, or April. The only 
trouble with them is to keep down black fly, which 
fastens on the growing tips when the plants are in flower. 
The shoots should be pinched off between finger and 
thumb at once, and thrown away. The spring-sown 
crop should be ready for gathering in from twelve to 
fourteen weeks from the time of sowing. 

Dwarf French beans are not so hardy, and ought 
not to be sown before the end of April. Even then 
a late frost or a spell of cold winds may nip them. 
They enjoy rich soil. The seeds ought to stand six 
inches apart in rows two feet asunder, and may be 
covered with three inches of soil. Pods ought to be 
ready for gathering inside twelve weeks. 

Scarlet runners are much the most useful of all 
beans, and also the most tender. Very little frost 
suffices to pinch them. On this account it is not 
prudent to sow before the end of May, unless the 
position is a sheltered one, or shelter can be provided 
on a frosty night. The seeds may be put in three 
inches deep and nine inches apart. If there is to be a 
second row, do not let it come within six feet of the 
first. The plants should have light poles, or strings, 
for climbing on. Pods should be ready for picking in 
twelve weeks. 



344 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



Beetroot 

This vegetable must not be put on to freshly manured 
ground, or it will be earthy. The middle of May is early 
enough to sow, except in the case of round-rooted sorts, 
which may go in three weeks earlier. In both cases it 
is wise to cover two inches deep, and allow a distance 
apart of twelve inches by nine, the former from row 
to row, the latter from plant to plant. The seedlings 
must be netted or threaded to keep off birds, which 
are very fond of pulling them out. The round sorts 
should be ready in thirteen or fourteen weeks ; the 
tap-rooted ones will be a few weeks longer ; in fact, 
it is well to leave them in the ground till October, 
when they may be laid in heaps, and covered with 
straw and earth. 



Broccoli and other Winter Greens 

The winter greens are a useful class, in spite of the 
fact that they are somewhat coarse. They are very 
hardy, and will give produce from October to June 
inclusive. 

Broccoli. — Good varieties of this vegetable are very 
little inferior to cauliflowers. One sort may be sown 
about the middle of April, another at the end of the 
month, and a third about the middle of May. The seed 
may be sown half an inch deep in rows a foot apart. 
The seedlings should be protected from birds, thinned 
to prevent crowding, and planted out thirty inches apart 
during showery weather in June. The soil should be 
made quite firm around them. If they are planted be- 
tween potatoes, varieties of the latter should be chosen 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 345 

which come off the ground by mid-August, in order 
that the broccoli plants may get hardened by exposure, 
and enabled to withstand the severe weather of winter. 
They will be ready the following spring. 

Borecole. — This may be sown in March or early April, 
and treated in the same way as broccoli. Gatherings 
may be made from it in mild spells in late winter and 
early spring. 

Brussels Sprouts. — If sown in March and planted out 
in June, Brussels sprouts will be ready in autumn, and 
will maintain a supply into winter. 

Savoys may be sown in the same way as the other 
greens. April or May, with planting out in July or 
August, will be soon enough, as early savoys have not 
the flavour of later ones. 

Cabbages 

A supply of cabbages may be had during the greater 
part of the year, but is perhaps the most welcome in 
late winter and early spring. To get this the seed should 
be sown the first week in August. It should be sown 
thinly in drills, the plants thinned, and subsequently 
planted about eighteen inches apart in October. It is 
wise to plant in firm ground, such as an old onion bed, 
otherwise the growth is soft and loose. Cabbages may 
also be sown in March, April, May, and June, if pro- 
duce is wanted in summer and autumn, but the majority 
of people do not care for cabbages when they have peas, 
beans, vegetable marrows, and other summer vegetables. 
There is an uncommon vegetable of the cabbage tribe 
called couve troiichuda, of which seed is offered by most 
dealers quite cheaply. The fleshy leaf-ribs are eaten, and 
have excellent flavour. The seed may be sown in spring, 



346 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

and the seedlings transplanted. Another little-known 
vegetable of this class is the rosette colewort, which 
need not be sown till May, and may be planted a 
foot apart on any spare piece of ground. If pickling 
cabbages are wanted, sow in summer, and the plant 
will stand the winter, and make large, firm hearts the 
next season. 

Carrots 

The gardener who has frame accommodation will 
often raise a few early carrots under glass. There is 
a variety called Parisian Forcing which is valuable for 
this purpose. It gives small, very sweet roots about 
the size of walnuts. Other sowings may be made out 
of doors in April and May. The drills may be drawn 
a foot apart and an inch deep, and the plants may be 
thinned until they will be just clear of each other when 
full grown. They ought to be ready for lifting by mid- 
September, and may then be covered with straw and 
earth. Carrots do not care for a stiff, close, damp soil ; 
and those growers who have clay must break it up well, 
so as to get it as friable as possible. They must also be 
careful to sow when it is dry enough to crumble freely, 
not when it is sodden with rain. It will be an advan- 
tage if some wood ashes can be sprinkled in the drills 
at the time of sowing. It is advisable to press the soil 
close round the plants after thinning them, in order 
to keep away the maggot. Avoid manuring. 

Cauliflowers 

A few small, tender, milk-white cauliflowers are 
welcome in early summer, but it is only possible to 
get them by sowing under glass, in heat, in January 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 347 

or February. The seed may be sown in a box, and 
when the seedlings are two inches high, by which time 
they will be getting crowded, they can be set out four 
inches apart in larger boxes, and hardened in an un- 
heated frame. By the time they have grown sufficiently 
to come into contact with each other again, the weather 
will be warm enough for them to be planted in the 
garden. A piece of deeply-worked, well-manured soil 
should be prepared for them. Unlike the preceding 
crop, they love a moist, holding soil. Cauliflowers for 
autumn use need not have glass protection at any time. 
They may be sown out of doors in April, like Brussels 
sprouts and broccoli, and planted in June. They are 
extremely useful in October and November, when peas 
and beans are over. 

Celery 

One of the most delicious and valuable vegetables, 
celery would certainly be grown even more extensively 
than it is at the present time if it were not that it involves 
a considerable amount of trouble. There is not only 
the sowing under glass, and pricking off, but the making 
of trenches, and earthing. The seed may be sown in 
a box in February or March, and placed in a frame 
on a hotbed, or in a warm greenhouse. When the 
seedlings are about three inches high, they may be 
set out into other boxes, and put into an unheated frame 
to harden. They will be ready for planting out in June, 
and that is often a convenient time, because a very early 
crop of peas or potatoes may be ready to be cleared 
off and make room for them. A trench may be made a 
foot wide and nine inches deep, the soil which comes out 
being placed in a neat ridge along the side of the trench. 



348 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

where it will carry a crop of lettuces to maturity before 
it is required for earthing the celery. The bottom of 
the trench should be dug up, and some manure worked 
in. Showery weather should be chosen for planting 
if possible ; if it is dry the trench must be shaded for 
a few days, in order to give the young plants a good 
chance of getting started. When the celery is a foot 
high, it is wise to put a loop of raphia round it, to keep 
it together. About six weeks before it is wanted for use 
(but not later than mid-October in any case, for fear 
of injury from frost) earth should be piled up as far 
as the top cluster of leaves, in order to blanch the stems, 
and make them eatable. If there is a good supply of 
celery, it will be useful all through the winter, both for 
eating raw with cheese, and cooked as an ordinary vege- 
table dish, Celeriac, the turnip-rooted celery, is delicious 
when cooked, and may be raised like ordinary celery, 
but does not need trenches. 

Cucumbers 

If we have a spare frame we may grow cucumbers 
in it. A hotbed may be made up, by getting fresh stable 
manure and turning it three or four times at intervals 
of a few days, in order to drive off the rank steam, and 
then building it up in a firm mass. The bed may be 
covered with soil. The seeds can be sown singly in 
small pots in March, and placed in a warm house, 
or on a hotbed. Where the plants have formed a couple 
of rough leaves (the first, or seed leaves, will be smooth 
ones) the tip may be nipped off to encourage side shoots 
to form, and the plants put into the frame. They will 
soon fill it ; in fact, they will need a certain amount 
of curbing to keep them from getting overcrowded. 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 349 

Very useful cucumbers can be grown without heat. 
What are called " ridge " varieties should be chosen, 
and seed sown in a frame early in April. The plants 
can be planted out of doors two months later. If 
cucumbers are to be grown in a house, they should be 
raised in heat like the frame cucumbers, but should 
not have the tip removed. They should be planted in 
mounds of soil, and the shoots fastened to wires trained 
under the roof. 

Leeks 

More esteemed in North Britain than in the South, 
leeks nevertheless enjoy a fair amount of popularity 
in all parts. They are related to the onion, and may 
be looked upon as a change vegetable. The culture 
is quite different, however. Instead of being planted 
in a hard bed on the level like onions, they are planted 
in manured trenches, and subsequently earthed up, 
similarly to celery, where very fine produce is sought. 
Smaller leeks, useful for cooking, can be grown on the 
level, but they need earthing, and this is more trouble- 
some on the non - trenching than on the trenching 
system. The seeds may be sown on a reserve plot out 
of doors early in April, and afterwards planted out ; 
but growers who want particularly fine specimens often 
sow under glass early in March, and so get stronger 
plants. Leeks do not need lifting and storing in winter 
the same as onions, but may remain in the ground, and 
be used as required, like celery. 

Mushrooms 

Mushrooms are not vegetables, correctly speaking, 
but fungi. They may, however, be classed with kitchen- 



350 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

garden crops for the sake of convenience. They are 
abundant in the shops in late summer, when the field 
supplies are available ; and it is hardly worth while to 
grow them then. They may be had at most other 
periods of the year, even in winter, by cultivating them 
on hotbeds in the open air. Three months may be 
allowed from starting to full bearing. The manure 
should be fresh from the stables, and it must be 
well sweetened by turning it two or three times at 
intervals before making the bed. The manure may 
be built up in the form of a ridge, about six inches 
wide at the top, thirty inches wide at the bottom, and 
two and a half feet high. It will be ready for the spawn 
when the heat has started falling and has dropped to 
about 80°. The spawn bricks may be broken up into 
pieces about the size of golf ^.balls, and pressed well 
within the manure. In a few days white threads 
should begin to run from them, and when that is ob- 
served to be taking place the bed should be covered 
with soil to the depth of an inch. The soil must be 
moist, or it will not bind on the sides of the bed. After 
the spawning has been done, the bed should be covered 
with straw, a thin coating if it be summer time, a thick 
one if winter. The object is to maintain warmth in 
the bed, which might otherwise speedily become cold. 
Mushrooms may appear through the soil casing in a 
month's time, or they may not appear for two months. 
If they do not show in eight weeks the bed may have 
a soaking of warm water. 

A cool, dark, but sweet-smelling outhouse or cellar 
is a very suitable place for growing mushrooms in. 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 351 



Onions 

A long supply of onions is considered indispensable, 
in spite of the fact that the vegetable is looked upon 
with coldness by some on account of its odour. Large, 
fleshy onions like "Ailsa Craig" are not so strong as 
the small "Blood Red" and "James's Keeping," and 
can be grown much larger and finer than the imported 
Spanish onions by sowing the seed in a box in a green- 
house in January or February, pricking the plants off 
into deeper boxes when they become crowded, harden- 
ing them in an unheated frame, and planting them out 
eighteen inches apart by twelve in deeply dug, heavily 
manured, but firm ground at the end of April. They 
will be ready for harvesting by the end of August, when 
they should be drawn from the ground and well roasted 
in the sun. This method involves a little extra trouble, 
but the latter is well repaid by the heavier and finer 
crops provided. If the crop is to be grown entirely 
out of doors, the ground should be well dug and 
manured in time for the seed to be sown by the end 
of March. It should be sprinkled thinly in drills nine 
inches apart, and covered with an inch of soil. After 
sowing, tread the bed well over in order to make it 
thoroughly firm, and then very lightly scratch it over 
with a rake to give a neat and finished appearance. A 
sowing may be made about the middle of August to 
give young onions for salads the following spring. 

Parsnips 

Like carrots and beetroot, parsnips do best in deeply 
worked but not freshly manured soil. The end of 



352 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

March is a good time to sow. The rows may be fifteen 
inches apart, and the plants thinned out to about a foot 
asunder. They should not be lifted in autumn like the 
other roots, but left to mature in the ground, being 
drawn from as needed throughout the winter. 

Peas 

Almost every person likes green peas, and is glad to 
have them over as long a period as possible. It is not 
easy to get them before June out of doors, or after 
September, but a great deal depends upon circumstances. 
If the grower can start his peas in pots or boxes under 
glass in January or February, and plant them on a warm 
border, he may gather late in May, but it is unusual. 
Some growers sow out of doors in autumn, in the hope 
of getting an early crop the following year ; but the 
plan fails more often than it succeeds. As regards the 
last crop of the year, it is easy to get peas in October if 
the district is mild and moist, but not if it is cold and 
dry. 

If seed is sown out of doors, a period of from twelve 
to sixteen weeks may be allowed for the crop to come 
in. The earlier sowings are apt to be the longest, 
because when they are made the soil is comparatively 
cold, and germination is slow. Peas sown from mid- 
April to mid-May generally come in quickest. The 
drills may be drawn four or five inches wide and about 
three inches deep. If several rows are sown together, 
they should be at least as far apart as the plants grow 
high. The space between may be sown with spinach 
or turnips. The peas may be moistened with paraffin 
oil to keep off vermin, and the young plants must be 
protected from birds with fish-netting or black thread. 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 353 

The plants will need staking, and the sticks should be 
put to them directly they show tendrils, otherwise the 
plants will not grow rapidly. The sticks must vary in 
height with the varieties, which differ considerably. The 
height of the pea is nearly always stated on the pricket 
or in the catalogue. 

Peas enjoy a deep, rich soil — in fact, it is difficult to 
get good crops of them without it in dry, hot weather. 
The soil should be thoroughly deepened and manured, 
a few weeks before sowing, if possible. When they 
come into bearing a good soaking with water, or, better 
still, liquid manure, twice a week, will be beneficial, 
helping the plants to crop, and keeping away mildew. 

Seeds may be sown from February to May in order 
to get constant successions over a long period. 

Potatoes 

The first crop of potatoes out of doors will probably 
be dug towards the end of June, but a great deal depends 
on the soil and situation. On a light, warm soil, and 
on a south border, it may be possible to get a few in 
May. Those who want home-grown potatoes by May 
in cold, dry-land districts must grow them in frames or 
houses. Apart from the question of soil and district, 
the varieties differ a great deal, some yielding far more 
quickly than others. 

It is a good thing to order planting sets of early 
potatoes in winter, and lay them two or three deep on 
a dry floor in a light, frost-proof place. This encourages 
them to form one or two strong sprouts. The ground 
may be prepared for the crop by working it deeply, but, 
as we have seen in our chat on Rotations, it need not 
have yard manure unless poor. If it has been well 

z 



354 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

dunged in previous years, a mixture of mineral super- 
phosphate and sulphate of potash, two parts by weight 
of the former to one part of the latter, spread in the 
drill at the rate of a handful to the yard, will be adequate. 
The drills may be drawn three inches deep, two feet 
apart for early varieties, and two feet four inches for 
late sorts. The sets of earlies may be put a foot apart, 
and of lates fourteen inches. After covering them with 
the late soil from the drill, soil may be drawn over them 
in a ridge three or four inches high. 

If the sets have been sprouted, there will probably be 
only one or two strong growths, but if several shoots 
should come through together it will be wise to remove 
the weakest ones, retaining only two. When they are 
six inches high they should be earthed by drawing soil 
quite up to the tips of the leaves. They will keep on 
growing rapidly, and at the end of another three or 
four weeks will be ready for the final earthing. 

The early ones should be ready for lifting in from 
twelve to sixteen weeks after planting, the actual time 
varying with the soil, the situation, and the weather. 
One can generally get a few tubers by the time the 
plants begin to bloom, and the whole of the crop will 
be ready for lifting when the tops turn yellow. Later 
sorts will probably be from fifteen to twenty weeks in 
completing their growth. They should be lifted as soon 
as the foliage ripens, and, after being spread to dry, 
with a covering over them to preserve them from green- 
ing, should be placed in a heap, and covered with straw 
and soil. 

If the crop is attacked by disease before it is ready for 
lifting, the foliage should be sprayed with Bordeaux mix- 
ture (see p. 233), The occurrence is not likely in dry, hot 
weather, but is extremely probably in wet, cold weather. 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 355 

Gardeners often grow crops of early potatoes in 
large pots or frames in winter, and there is no trouble 
in getting a supply if a warm house, or a heated frame, 
is available. 

Rhubarb 

Rhubarb is very welcome in spring, and it is a very 
easy crop to grow and force. As we have already 
seen, it is somewhat slow in coming into yield from 
seed, three years elapsing from the time of sowing 
before it is strong enough to be pulled from ; but it 
is quite easy to get produce more quickly by purchasing 
roots, and splitting them up. A strong "stool" of 
rhubarb will be nine or ten inches across, and may be 
cut up into several pieces. If portions are taken with 
two good "crowns" or buds each, and planted in deep, 
rich, moist soil in spring, they will be ready for pulling 
from the following year. 

Rhubarb likes a strong, cool soil, with plenty of 
" body " and moisture in it. If the grower cannot pro- 
vide it with this, but is compelled to plant in light, dry 
soil, he will be well advised to give good soakings of 
water and liquid manure whenever he can spare them. 
He may also spread a coat of manure on the surface of 
the soil all round them. If flower stems are thrown 
up, as they probably will be, he should cut them off 
at once. These attentions will serve, in some measure, 
to compensate for the unsuitable soil. 

Unless very early rhubarb is wanted, it may be 
forced on the ground where it grows by the simple 
expedient of covering it with an empty box and heaping 
stable manure over the latter. But if a very early 
supply is needed, it will be necessary to take up some 
strong "stools," and force them under cover, e.g. in a 



356 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

warm frame, shed, or cellar. When the clumps are 
lifted, a few of the "crowns" should be removed for 
replanting, and the remainder of the mass left to sustain 
a good freezing, after which it will start freely in rich, 
moist soil in any place where a temperature of about 60° 
can be maintained. 



Salsify and Scorzonera 

These minor root crops are rarely grown, except in 
large gardens, but they have an entirely different flavour 
from beetroot, carrots, or parsnips. Salsify (the "vege- 
table oyster") has a particularly agreeable and distinct 
flavour. Both the crops may be grown under the same 
conditions as carrots — a deep, friable, not recently- 
manured soil, April sowing in shallow drills fifteen 
inches apart, thinning, and lifting in October. They 
are sometimes left in the ground, however, and are 
safe if the soil is light and warm, and the district mild. 



Seakale. 

There is no vegetable more delicious than seakale, 
and it is remarkable that so many owners of small 
gardens fill up all their space with coarse things like 
potatoes and greens, which they can buy cheaply, and 
find no room for seakale, which is a delicacy, and some- 
what expensive to buy. It will thrive in any friable, 
fertile soil, but it will not succeed in stiff, waterlogged 
soil ; nor will it give heavy crops in thin, dry land, in 
spite of the fact that it grows on the seashore. It is 
worth while to take special care in preparing the soil 
for seakale, because "the results are so much better than 
when this matter is neglected. The ground ought to be 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 357 

broken up two spades deep, and a dressing of decayed 
manure worked in. Seakale is subject to a fungoid 
disease, and the writer has observed that it is very bad 
in poor, thin, hght soil. If plants are being raised 
from seed, it should be sown two inches deep in a 
drill in spring, and the seedlings set out in rows the 
following year, but three years will elapse before they 
can be forced. If, however, root cuttings a few inches 
long, and as thick as a lead pencil, can be procured, 
and are planted in rows two feet apart in spring, in 
good soil, they will form crowns of forcing strength by 
November of the same year. 

These crowns may be taken up for forcing if required, 
or they may be forced on the ground by taking the soil 
from between the rows, and heaping it over them to the 
depth of a foot. 

Cinders from the house fires will do quite as well as 
soil, and after they are done with may be spread on the 
paths. Another plan of forcing on the ground is to 
procure large pots, termed seakale pots, to cover the 
plants, and heap litter over and around them. Roots 
may be lifted if desired, packed in soil in frames, or 
in boxes or large pots in warm places, and covered 
to exclude light. Crowns forced in heat are not worth 
planting again, but those forced on the ground will give 
future crops. 

Shallots 

The shallot (or eschalot) is a very useful vegetable of 
the onion tribe, and may be made serviceable either for 
cooking or pickling. It will give a heavy crop in four to 
five months if planted early (say by mid-February) nine 
inches by twelve apart, in rich, well-dug soil. Firm, 
sound bulbs about the size of a tulip are the best for 



358 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

planting. The ground must be fairly firm without being 
actually hard. The bulbs will be ready for harvesting 
by mid-July, when they should be taken up, spread in 
the sun to ripen, and then stored. The underground or 
potato onion may be treated in the same way as the 
shallot. Seed of the shallot is procurable, and there is 
no difficulty in raising a supply of plants from it, but 
they will not crop until the following year. 

Spinach 

A very agreeable and beneficial vegetable. As it 
can be grown on ground between peas or beans, 
forming what gardeners call a " catch " crop, it becomes 
a sort of kitchen-garden supernumerary, but it must 
not be despised on that account. Th^ great trouble with 
spinach is its fatal predilection for running to seed. 
When the plants throw up flower stems, which they do 
on the slightest provocation, they are useless. Both the 
round and prickly-seeded varieties are addicted to 
" bolting," but the variety called Victoria is not nearly 
as prone to it, and should be preferred on that account. 
It is not necessary to defer the first sowing of spinach 
until the peas are put in. It may be sown in February 
if the ground is dry enough, and successional sowings 
may be made until September. Spinach likes a rich, 
moist, friable soil. The plants should be well thinned 
out while they are quite small. If crowded the plants 
are more liable to run to seed, and the leaves are not 
so fine. 

Tomatoes 

Everybody likes tomatoes nowadays, and grows 
them if he can for the sake of the superior flavour which 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 359 

home-grown fruit possesses over the imported pro- 
duce sold in the shops. The plant is tender, and is liable 
to become diseased, and to set its fruit badly in cold, 
wet summers. For this reason those who have a suit- 
able house grow it under glass. However, a fairly good 
crop is procurable out of doors in most years, and as 
the cost of seed is very small, it is worth trying. It 
is advisable to dot a few seeds in a large pot, pan, 
or box, about the beginning of March, and keep it in 
a greenhouse or warm frame. It is not safe in an un- 
heated frame, as a sharp frost might kill the seedlings. 
When the little plants begin to crowd each other they 
may be set a few inches apart in larger boxes, or put 
separately in pots, and hardened in an unheated frame, 
with newspapers spread over them on cold nights. In 
fine weather they should have full exposure. They will 
then make steady, sturdy growth, and by the first week 
in June will be ready for planting in the garden. The 
soil ought to be well dug, but not manured, unless it 
is very poor indeed, in which case a light dressing of 
manure may be dug in, or a mixture of two ounces of 
superphosphate and one ounce of sulphate of potash 
may be used per square yard. Strong stakes about 
four feet long will be required if the plants are to be 
grown in the open, but where there is wall or fence 
space available, preferably with a southern, western, 
or south - eastern aspect, it should be made use of. 
The plants may be put in about a foot and a half 
apart, and trained at an angle of 45°. 

Simultaneously with the extension of the top growth 
side shoots will push, but these ought to be pinched 
off at once, in order to keep the plant to one stem, and 
this suppression of side growth should continue until 
the end of the season. The leading shoot may be left 



36o THE PERFECT GARDEN 

to grow until the top of the support is reached, when 
it should be stopped by nipping out the tip. Clusters 
of fruit will form on the main stem. If, when they 
begin to colour, some of the foliage shades them, the 
leaves may be removed. If the fruit is not ripe by 
the middle of September, the plants may be taken up 
bodily, and hung head downwards in a cool shed, where 
the fruit will finish off. 

Turnips 

There are few people who do not appreciate turnips 
when they are sweet and pulpy, and few who do not 
detest them when they are hot, stringy, and lumpy. 
Unfortunately, they are as often the latter as the former, 
and there is no denying the fact that the turnip is a 
somewhat unsatisfactory and troublesome vegetable. 
It is very Hable to be upset by the weather, and by its 
hereditary enemies the flea beetle, the gall weevil, and 
"fingers and toes." The grower should aim at spring 
and autumn turnips ; if he cannot grow them satis- 
factorily in summer it is not a very serious matter, 
because there are plenty of other vegetables available 
then. He may make a sowing in February if the ground 
is dry enough, and a situation between pea rows will 
be suitable, for the crop may be treated as a " catch " 
one, similarly to spinach. The soil ought to be well 
pulverised. If it is lumpy, and dries out quickly, the 
turnips will probably fail. Thin sowing, and subsequent 
thinning, may be practised, but the plants need not 
be thinned severely, as they enjoy each other's shade. 
The ground should be well compressed after sowing 
to check the flea beetle, and it does the plants no harm 
to put a roller over them directly they come through. 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 361 

Further sowings may be made in March, April, May 
(if the soil is cool and moist), August, September, and 
October, in order to maintain successions. 

Vegetable Marrows 

There are two entirely different kinds of vegetable 
marrows, namely, the bush and the runner. The 
former has a compact, upright habit, growing as closely 
as a red-currant bush, and will therefore appeal to 
people who have only a limited amount of room ; more- 
over, it fruits a little earlier than the runner, and the 
flavour is equally good. Plant per plant, the running 
marrow yields far more fruit than the bush, but demands 
more room. As to which type would yield the most 
off a given area of ground, i.e. if twelve plants of bush 
and two plants of runner each occupied a square rod 
of ground, there would probably be very little in it. 
The advantage might be on the side of the runner, and 
certainly less seed, and less trouble in raising plants, 
would be called for. Both types may be sown in a 
greenhouse or frame in March, or in the open ground 
at the end of April. They ought not to be planted out 
until the end of May, except in sheltered, warm places. 
They love a rich, deep, cool, moist soil ; and if that can 
be provided they will give no trouble from the flowers 
failing to set, but will bear heavily and continuously. 

Salads 

Of the vegetables already mentioned, beetroot, 
cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes are used in saladings, 
but there are several others. Curled chervil is one. 
The seeds are sown at intervals from spring to autumn, 



362 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

in order to secure successions. The leaves of chicory 
and dandehon are also used, and these too may be sown 
in spring. Corn salad is very useful, as it can be had 
in winter by sowing seed in late summer. 

Mustard a.nd cress (or rape and cress ; market growers 
substitute rape for mustard, on account of the seed being 
cheaper) are very popular. One may sow in boxes in 
warm houses in winter and spring, and out of doors 
in summer in constant succession, and so have an 
uninterrupted supply. The principal points are : (i) to 
have the surface soil very fine, so that the salad can 
be cut quite clean and free from grit ; (2) to sow the 
cress a few days before the mustard, in order to insure 
both coming in together ; (3) to keep the soil moist. 
In order to secure perfectly clean plants, many people 
abstain from using soil altogether, and stretch a piece 
of flannel, with the ends lying in water, on a frame. 
The flannel will be kept constantly moist by the water 
which it takes up, and the seeds will germinate readily if 
the temperature is warm. 

Endive comes only second to lettuces, from which 
it differs in its bitter flavour. It is very hardy, and can 
be had in winter and spring. The seeds may be sown 
an inch deep from May to August, and the plants put 
out a foot apart. The only cultural attention of any 
importance is blanching, and perhaps the simplest way 
of effecting this is to tie the plants up, and heap ashes 
along both sides of the row. Endive likes a light, warm, 
loamy soil. 

Lettuces are indispensable. There are two sections, 
one tall and narrow ("cos"), the other low and spread- 
ing (" cabbage "). Opinions differ as to which is the 
better, and it is wise to grow one or two varieties of 
each. Lettuces for early use may be raised in a green- 



HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES 363 

house or frame, and planted out in spring. It is not 
safe, as a rule, to sow in the open air before mid- 
March. To economise space the seed may be sown in 
drills half an inch deep and a foot apart, in a spare 
corner of the garden, thinned to keep them sturdy, and 
transplanted in rows in any convenient place, such as 
between peas and beans, or on ridges beside celery 
trenches. They will not need any special attention 
beyond tying the cos varieties up for blanching pur- 
poses when they are about full grown. The great 
trouble with lettuces, as with spinach, is running to 
seed. For this reason it is not prudent to grow a large 
quantity at any given time, because they will not await 
the convenience of the grower, but if not used at once 
will "bolt." The best plan is to make sowings every 
few days, if a constant supply is wanted. It is more 
trouble, but it is necessary. Sowings may be continued 
up till the end of August. The plants raised at the last 
sowing will stand the winter, and come in for an early 
crop the following year. 

Radishes are almost as indispensable as lettuces. If 
they are wanted late in winter and early in spring, they 
must be sown under glass. Gardeners who prepare 
frames for early potatoes and carrots often sow a pinch 
of radish seed between the rows of these vegetables ; 
the radishes are ready to pull before the potatoes and 
carrots want all the room. Outdoor sowings may begin 
in March, and continue all the summer. It is wise to 
prepare the soil well by digging it deeply and thoroughly 
pulverising the surface, even though the crop is a sur- 
face rooter, because this treatment tends to keep the 
soil moist — a very important factor in securing tender 
radishes. Small patches may be sown broadcast in any 
spare corners, and no transplanting will be called for. 



364 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

It will be necessary, however, to protect the crop against 
birds, which will spoil sowing after sowing unless they 
are kept away by fish netting, or some other means. 
A last sowing may be made in September for winter 
produce. 

Herbs 

We have seen that a bed of herbs containing mint, 
parsley, sage, and thyme is almost indispensable in a 
kitchen garden. To them might be added basil, borage, 
fennel, hyssop, lavender, marjoram, pennyroyal, purs- 
lane, rampion, rosemary, rue, savory, sorrel, and tar- 
ragon. These can be got from seedsmen with the 
supply of kitchen-garden requisites, and sown in the 
open garden in spring. 



INDEX 



Aconite, winter, 179 

Alliums, 179 

Almonds, Apples, Plums, and 

Cherries for bloom, 163 
Alstromerias, 180 
Amaryllises, 181 
Anemones, 91, 181 
Annuals, 136, 139 
Antirrhinums, 87 
Ants, 232 

Apples, select, 295, 296, 298 
Arches, 123, 157 
Artichokes, 340 
Arums, 181 
Asparagus, 341 

Asters, perennial, 91 ; annual, 199 
Aucubas, 171 
Auriculas, 212 
Autumn colour, 89 
Azaleas, 161 

B 

Beans, 343 

Bedding system, the, 39 

Beds, picture, 133, 140 

Beetroot, 344 

Begonias, 182 

Berberises, 162 

Birds, 230 

Blackberries, 274 

Black fly, 231 

Bordeaux mixture, 233 

Borders, making, 53 

Boxes, flower, 223 

Broccoli and Brussels sprouts, 

344 
Broom, the, 162 



Bulbs, early, 76 ; the best, 178, ic 
Bushes, fruit, 282 



Cabbages, 345 

Calochorti, 183 

Cannas, 87, 183 

Canterbury bells, 83 

Carnations, 84 

Carrots, 346 

Cauliflowers, 346 

Celery, 347 

Cherries, select, 302 

Christmas and Lenten roses, 184 

Chrysanthemums, 90 

Clematises, 151 

Climbers and creepers, 1 50 

Colchicums, 184 

Colour for all seasons, 69 

Columbines, 79 

Conifers as foils, 74 

Conservatories, 238 to 241 

Conquest of the wild, 44 

Cordon fruit trees, 276 

Cost of gardening, 24, 29 

Crabs, ornamental, 275 

Creepers and climbers, 1 50 

Crinums, 184 

Crocuses, 185 

Crown imperials, 78 

Cucumbers, 348 

Currants, flowering, i6i 

Currants, select, 303 



D 



Daffodils, 185 
Dahlias, 89 



365 



366 



INDEX 



Daisies, Michaelmas, 91 

Delphiniums, 80 

Design and the home - made 

garden, 18 
Deutzias, 166 
Dog's tooth violets, 186 
Draining, 56 
Dream gardens, i 



Edgings, 59 

Enemies, garden, 228 to 233 

Espaliers, 279 

Evening primroses, 85 

Exhibitions, how they mislead, 35 

Expenditure, garden, heads of, 26 



Fan fruit trees, 278 

Fences, cost of, 48 

Flame flowers, 88 

Formal gardens, 46 

Foxgloves, 84 

Frames, 247 

Fritillarias, 187 

Fruit blossom, 163 

Fruit garden, complete, 272, 285 

Fruit garden — how to make it — 
soil preparation — when and 
how to plant, 286 to 292 

Fruit houses, 250 to 259 

Fruit pruning, 304 to 316 

Fruit, why it should be grown, 
263 to 27 r 

Fungi, 232 



Galtonia (Hyacinthus) candicans, 

187 
Garden, soul of the, 12 
Gardeners, professional, 43, 53 
Gardening, beginnings of, 44 
Gardening, cost of, 24 
Gardening, how to learn, 37 
Gardens, cost of stocking, 29 
Gardens, home-made, 18, 23 



Gardens, natural, 46 

Gardens, planning, 50 

Geraniums, 83 

Geraniums, ivy-leaved, 201 

Geraniums, zonal, 202 

Gladioli, 86 

Glass houses, cost of, 29 

Gooseberries, select, 303 

Golden rod, 88 

Grafting, 297 

Grapes, 253 

Green fly, 231 

Greenhouses, plants for, 238, 240, 

241 
Gypsophila, 208 



H 



Heating plant houses, 242 

Hedges, cost of, 49 

Herbaceous plants, andgardeners, 
54 ; culture of, 93 to 100 ; select 
of various heights, loi to 103 ; 
for all seasons, 104, 105 

Hellebores, 185 

Herbs, 364 

Hollyhocks, 82 

Home-made gardens, 18 to 23 

Honesty, 209 

Honeysuckles, 153 

Hyacinths, 188 



I 



Indian pinks, 207 

Insects, 228 to 233 

Intermediate house, plants for, 238 



Irises, 82, i^ 
Ivy, 153 
Ixias, 190 



Jasmine, 154 



K 



Kew Gardens, lessons in, 41 
Kitchen garden, complete, 325 to 

339 
Kniphofias, 88 



INDEX 



367 



Labour for gardens, 27 
Laburnums, 164 
Larkspurs, perennial, 80 
Lawns, 52 

Learning gardening, 37 
Leatherjackets, 232 
Leeks, 349 
Leopard's bane, TJ 
Lilacs, 165 
Lilies, 85, 192 
Lobelias, 89 
Loganberry, 274 
Lyre flower, 79 

M 

Magnolias, 165 
Marigolds, 209 
Melons, 258 
Michaelmas daisies, 91 
Mignonette, 210 
Mock oranges, 162 
Montbretias, 87 
Mushrooms, 349 

N 

Natural gardens, 46 
Narcissi, 185 

Novelties, cost of, 25 to 33 
Nursery gardens, visits to, 38 



O 

Onions, 351 
Orchard houses, 252 
Ox-eye daisies, 85 



Paeonies, 80 

Pansies, 206 

Parsnips, 351 

Paths, 56 

Peaches and nectarines, 255 ; 

select, 303 
Pears, select, 299, 300 
Peas, green, 352 



Pentstemons, 87 

Petunias, 21 1 

Phloxes, 81 ; annual, 211 

Picture beds, 133 to 140 

Pillars in borders, 75 

Pinks, 85 

Pits, 247 

Planning gardens, 50 

Plant boxes, 237 

Plant houses, 237 

Plants, cost of, 29 

Plums, select, 301 

Poppies, 83,213 

Portulacas, 214 

Potatoes, 353 

Pots, 245 

Pruning fruit, 304, 316 to 324 

Primroses and polyanthuses, 212 

Pyramids, 282 

Pyrethrums, 79 



R 



Ranunculuses, 192 

Raspberries, select, 303 

Red spider, 231 

Rhododendrons, 160 

Rhubarb, 355 

Roads, 56 

Rocket, sweet, 215 

Rock work, 59 ; making, 106 to 
112 ; plants for all seasons, 112 
to 115 ; for dry soil, 115 ; for 
shade, 116 

Romneya Coulteri, 169 

Roses, 81, 117 to 120; designs 
for gardens of, 121 ; pergola, 
pillar, and arch, 123 ; bedding, 
128 ; wall, 129 ; select, 130 ; 
how to bud, 131 ; caterpillars 
on, 232 

Rotation cropping, 332, 333 



Salads, 362 
Salpiglossis, 215 
Salsify and scorzonera, 356 
Scabious, sweet, 216 
Schizostylis coccinea, 193 



368 



INDEX 



Scillas, 193 
Seakale, 356 
Shading, 243 
Shallots, 357 

Shrubs and trees, 158 to 177 ; 
select, 174; for chalk, 176; 
pruning, 176 

Slugs and snails, 229 

Snapdragons, 87 

Snowball tree (Guelder rose), 166 

Snowdrops, 187 

Snowdrop tree, 166 

Soils, 243 

Soul of the garden, the, 12 

Specialism, 32 

Spinach, 358 

Spiraeas, 165 

Spring colour, 76 

Standard trees, 281 

Sternbergias, 194 

Stocks, 204 

Stove-house, plants for, 239 

Strawberries, in pots, 257 ; plant- 
ing, 285 ; select, 303 

Sultan, sweet, 216 

Summer colour, 80 

Sunflowers, 88 

Sweet flowers, 139 

Sweet-williams, 83 

Sweet peas, 84 



Terraces, garden, 47 

Thorns, 163 

Tigridias, 193 

Tomatoes, 358 

Tools, cost of, 30 ; selection of, 

62 
Torch lilies, 88 
Trees, 158 to I77 ; select, 174; 

for chalk, 176 



Trellis-work, 220 
Trillium grandiflorum, 194 
Tropoeolums, 154, 194 
Tubs, plant, 222 
Tulips, 77, 194, 197 
Turf, 52 
Turnips, 36 

V 

Vases, 233 , ,, ^ 

Vegetables, why they should be 

grown, 319; cooking of, 321 ; 

complete garden of, 325 to 339 ; 

rotation of, 332, 333 ; how to 

grow, 340 to 364 
Vegetable marrows, 361 
Verbenas, 217 
Vinery, 253 
Violas, 206 
Violets, 218 
Virginian creeper, 155 



W 

Walls, cost of, 48 ; covering 

quickly, 226 
Wallflowers, 219 
Watering, 244 
Water lilies, 141 to 149 > makmg 

pools for, 147 
Water plants, 144 
Wild, conquest of the, 44 
Window boxes, 223 
Wireworm, 232 
Winter cherry, 89, 209 
Wistaria, 155 



Zephyranthes, 198 



PLANS 



2 A 



370 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



GROUND PLAN OF COMPLETE GARDEN 

(About Four Acres) 

Scale, I inch equals 90 feet. 

References : i. Flower beds. 2. Pond and Rockery for Alpine plants. 
3. Ivies on tree stumps, rock boulders, or trellises. 4. Summer-house, with rock- 
work at back for Ferns. 5. Conservatory. 6. Rose arches or pergola, 7. Rose 
beds. 8. Pillar Roses or triangular pergola. 9. Herbaceous plants (patches). 
10. Dwarf shrubi, such as Azaleas, Spiraeas, Weigelas, Veronicas, Hydrangeas, 
Fuchsias, &c. 11. Groups of Conifers, such as Golden Cypress, Cryptoiiieria 
elegans, Retinospora, &c. 12. Pampas Grass, Yucca, &c. 13. Specimen trees: 
deciduous — Chestnut, Beech, Birch, Elm, Maple, Oak, Poplar, Willow vars. ; 
evergreen — Pine, Silver Fir, Cedar, Spruce vars., in groups of three at widest 
parts of belt, filled in with evergreen and deciduous shrubs ; a, bw trees (Thorns, 
Laburnums, Crabs, &c.), with low evergreen and deciduous shrubs. 14. Special 
shrubs, such as Hybrid Rhododendions, Azaleas, Euonymus, Berberis, Genista 
or Cytisus, Azara, Ligustrum, &c. 15. Bamboos. 16. Weeping trees. 17. Plant 
house. 18. Peach house. 19. Vinery. 20. Three-quarter, span pits (table plants, 
Cucumbers, Melons). 21. Pits and frames. 22. Open she;l. 23. Root house. 
24. Mushroom house. 25. Potting shed. 26. Stokery. 27. Coke. 28. Fruit 
room. 29. Pots, &c. 30. Fruit trees (Apple, Pear, and Plum). 31. Pears 
(cordons). 32. Cherry, Plum (dwarf trained). 33. Peaches and Nectarines 
(dwarf trained). 34. Apricots, Cherries, Figs (dwarf trained). 35. Currants 
(Red and White). 36. Black Currants. 37. Gooseberries. 38. Raspberries. 

39. Trellis screen with fruit trees (culinary Cherries, Apples, and Plums). 

40. Arches for climbers (Clematis, Lonicera, &c.). 




S OOR.DCR 



372 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



GROUND PLAN OF COMPLETE GARDEN 

(About Two Acres) 

Scale, I inch equals 60 feet. 

References: i. Flowerbeds. 2. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and other American 
plants. 3. Fountain with basin for aquatic plants and rockery surrounding. 
4. Conservatory. 5. Summer-house. 6. Rose border, with Rose pergola 
(arches) or pillars, indicated by dots. 7. Specimen trees (indicated by larger 
symbols), with standard low trees (indicated by smaller symbols), such as Double 
Thorns, Laburnum, Crabs, Double Cherry, &.C., filled in with shrubs. 8. Yucca 
recurva or Pampas Grass. 9. Lawson's Cypress. 10. Weeping Elm. 11. Abies 
(Picea) nobilis glauca. 12. Thuya Lobbi superba. 13. Specimen Hollies (green 
and variegated), filled in with evergreen shrubs, preferably en low bank. 
14. Fruit trees (.Apples, Cherries, Pears, and Plums as cordons), espalier, 6 feet 
high. 15. Apple trees (bushes or pyramids). 16. Pears (bushes or pyramids). 
17. Plums (bushes or pyramids). 18. Cherries (bushes or pyramids). 19. Pears 
(dwarf trained). 20. Plums and Cherries (dwarf trained). 21. Peaches, Nec- 
tarines, Apricots, Figs (dwarf trained). 22. Raspberries. 23. Currants. 
24. Gooseberries. 25. Carnation house. 26. Greenhouse. 27. Peach house. 
28. Vinery. 29. Stove. 30. Stokery. 31. Potting shed. 32. Tool house. 
33. Mushroom house. 34. Fruit room. 35. Pits. 



374 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



GROUND PLAN OF COMPLETE GARDEN 
(About One Acre) 

Scale, I inch equals 40 feet. 

References: i. Fiower beds, some with Ericas, Weigelas, Spiraeas, and other 
dwarf shrubs. 2. Herbaceous borders. 3. Rhododendrons. 4. Rosery, with 
pillars or arches. 5. Summer-house, with rockwork surrounding. 6. Conserva- 
tory. 7. Specimen trees filled in with shrubs. 8. Small specimen trees or 
plants such as Pampas Grass, Yuccas, &c. 9. Plant house. 10. Peach house. 
II. Vinery. 12. Pits or frames. 13. Stokery. 14. Potting shed. 15. Tool 
house. 16. Mushroom house. 17. Fruit room. 18. Raspberries. 19. Black 
Currants. 20. Red and White Currants. 21. Gooseberries. 22. Apple trees. 
23. Pear trees. 24. Plum trees. 25. Cherry trees. 26. Plum trees, dwarf 
trained. 27. Pear trees, dwarf trained. 28. Apricot, Cherry, and Fig, dwarf 
trained. 29. Peach and Nectarine trees, dwarf trained. 30. Dividing screen, 
may be arches with Clematis, Climbing Roses, &c., or fruit trees trained as 
cordons, say, Apples, Pears, and Plums. 31. Asparagus. 32. Seakale. 
33. Rhubarb. 34. Strawberries. 



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GROUND PLAN OF 
QUARTER ACRE SUBURBAN COMPLETE GARDEN. 

Scale, I inch equals 24 feet. 

References : i. Conservatory. 2. Flower borders and for \vall creepers. 
3. Flower beds, with small specimen Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis or 
Standard Weeping Rose. 4. Standard Thorns, Laburnum, Mountain Ash, 
Prunus Pissardi, Almond, Cherry, and Crab. 5. Specimen Cupressus, Thuja, 
Retinospora, Hollies, filled in with deciduous and evergreen shrubs. 6. Fountain 
with water basin. 7. Rockwork for rock plants and Ferns (according to shade). 
8. Summer-house, embowered with Clematis. 9. Rose arches (pergola) or pillars. 
10. Rose or Carnation beds. 11. Herbaceous border. 12. Standard Acer 
Negundo variegatum and A. japonicum aureum, with pillars or poles {a) clothed 
with Clematis, Lonicera, &c. 13. Trellis screen with fruit trees (upright 
trained). 14. Pyramid Apples. 15. Cordon Currants. 16. Cordon Gooseberries. 
17. Cordon Pears. 18. Cordon Cherry, Plum, Peach, Apricot, Nectarine trees. 
19. Horizontal trained (cordcn) Apples. 20. Plant house with Grape Vine. 
21. Stokery. 22. Potting shed, &c. 23. Pit or frame. 24. Arches: Parsley- 
leaved Bramble or Blackberry and Loganberry. 



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178 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



KITCHEN GARDEN WITH GLASS AND FRUIT 
(About Two Acres) 

Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 60 feet. 

References: a, boundary fence; b, private entrance; c, yard entrance; d, 
stokery ; e, mushroom house ; /', tool house and storeroom ; g, potting shed ; 
h, fruit room ; i, early vinery ; j, late vinery ; k, early peacli house ; /, succession 
peachery ; m, strawberry forcing house (melons or cucumbers or tomatoes suc- 
ceeding) ; n, cucumber and melon house ; o, tomato house ; p, orchard house 
(peaches, nectarines, and figs in pots); q, entrances (doorways); r, peacheries, 
outside borders; s, vineries, outside borders; /, paths (preferably asphalted, 
stone or broad base tile-edged); tc, south wall ; v, east wall; w, west wall; 
-v, north wall (forming back of peach houses and vineries not over 10 feet high, 
therefore structure three-quarter span roof, also the cucumber and melon and 
tomato houses), all the walls 10 feet high ; y, frame ground ; z, yard. 

Arrangetnent of Fruit Trees and Bushes: i. Raspberries. 2. Blackberry 
(Parsley-leaved) and Loganberry. 3. Gooseberries. 4. Red and White Currants. 
5. Black Currants. 6. South aspect of south wall — Apricots one side of door- 
way, and early Cherries and Plums the other side, or Peaches and Nectarines, 
20 feet apart. 7. East aspect of east wall — Cherries and Plums, fan trained, 
20 feet apart. 8. West aspect of east wall — Pears and Plums, fan trained, 20 feet 
apart. 9. East aspect of west wall— lialf-length, early Cherries and Plums; 
' other half, Peaches and Nectarines in southern and warm part of the country, 
otherwise, choice Apples, dwarf trained, 20 teet apart. 10. \\'est aspect of west 
wall — Pears, fan trained or horizontal trained, 24 feet apart ; or, if gridiron 
fashion, desirable where variety is desired, 6 feet apart. 11. North aspect of south 
wall — one side of doorway, Morello and other late Cherries ; other side, Red and 
White Currants or Gooseberries, 6 feet apart, or both sides of doorway may be 
used for these as shown. 12. Bush or pyramid Apples. 13. Pyramid Pears. 
14. Pyramid Plums and Damsons. 15. South border — early Strawberries. 
16. Strawberries, east and west aspects. 17. Late Strawberries and Alpine 
Strawberries. 18. Herbs, 19. Early Vegetables (Peas, Potatoes), &c. 20. Horse- 
radish. 21. Asparagus. 22. Seakale. 23. Rhubarb. 24. Globe Artichoke. 
25. Vegetables and salading required in successional supply. 26. Seed-be:ls, &:c. , 
and vegetables. 27. Late vegetables not succeeding in hot situations. 



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HERBACEOUS BORDER, ETC., ON OUTSKIRTS OF 
LAWN WITH BACKGROUND OF FLOWERING 
TREES AND SHRUBS 

Scale, I inch equals i6 feet. 

References. — Lawn Part: i. Azaleas, with Liliums between. 2. Larix 
Kasmpferi or Juniperus virginiana Schcttii. 3. Bamboos (Phyllcstachys nigra). 
4. Phormium tenax. 5. Torch Lihes (Kniphcfias) or Hydrangeas. 6. Yucca 
recurvifolia. 7. Rhododendrons, bordered with Heaths. 8. Aralia spinosa. 
9. Pampas Grass. 10. Tritonias and Tigridias. 11. Crambe cordifolia. 

Herbaceous Border: 12. Viola A. J. Rowberry. 13. Aconitum Napellus. 
14. Rudbeckia laciniata fl. pi. 15. Rheum palmatum. 16. TroUius. 17. Ranun- 
culus aconitifolius fl. pi. ; R. acris tl. pi. 18. Dicentra eximia. 19. Pyrethrums, with 
edging of Alyssum saxatile. 20. Lunaria biennis. 21. Dielytra spectabilis. 22. 
Ajuga Brockbanki. 23. Eryngiurn alpinum, E. amethystinum, E. Oliverianum. 
24. Epilobium augustifolium. 25. Potentilla nepalensis. 26. Lythrum roseum 
superbum. 27. Spircea aruncus. 28. Phloxes. 29. Achillea Ptarmica the 
Pearl. 30. Linum flavuni. 31. Campanula pyramidalis alba. 32. Campanula 
pyramidalis. 33. Phalaris arundinaria. 34. Delphiniums. 35. Epimedium 
pinnatum. 36. Eryngium speciosum superbum. 37. Verbascum olympicum. 
38. Hollyhocks. 39. Agrostemma coronaria atrosanguinea. 40. Carex riparia 
variegata. 41. Gypsophila paniculata. 42. Lobelia, Queen Victoria. 43. Funkia 
ovata aurea. 44. Gaillardias, with Eulalia japonica zebrina near the edge. 
45. Onopordon tauricum. 46. Helenium. 47. Inula glandulosa. 48. Heu- 
chera sanguinea grandiflora. 49. Hemerocallis Middendorliana. 50. Hya- 
cinthus candicans. 51. Paeonies. 52. Aquilegias. 53. German Iris. 54. Iris, 
English. 55. Oxalis floribunda. 56. Aster (Michaelmas Daisies), blues. 57. Aster, 
whites. 58. Chrysanthemum, yellow. 59. Chrysanthemum, red. 60. Molinia 
casrulea variegata. 61. Pulmonaria saccharata. 62. Campanula van Houttei. 
63. Cineraria mariiima. 64. Salvia patens. 65. Eremurus robustus Ehvesianus 
or E. himalaicus. 66. Monarda didyma. 67. Papaver orientale. 68. Pole- 
monium cperuleum variegatum. 

Trees and Shritbs : 69. Kerria japonica. 70. Laburnum, with a groundwork 
of Aucubas. 71. Thorns with box. 72. Birch (Silver Weeping). 73. Pyrus 
floribunda, with Berberis Aquifolium. 74. Deutzias and Spiraeas. 75. Mountain 
Ash. 76. Cydonia, Cytisus, and Ribes. "j-j. Cerasus (Cherries), groundwork, 
Portugal Laurels. 78. Acacia (Robinia), groundwork, dwarf Acer palmatum. 
79. Syringa, Philadelphus, and Viburnum. 80. Weigelas. 81. Amygdalus 
(Almond), with groundwork of Laurestinus. 



HERBACEOUS DOUBLE-BORDERS ARRANGED AS 
TO COLOUR 

Scale, I inch equals i6 feet. 

A, summer-house, embowerei with Clematis and Virginian Creepers. 

B, path with arches clothed with : a, Jasminum primuhnum ; b, Rose (climb- 
ing poiyantha), Leuchstern ; c, Lonicera (flexucsa) ; d, Clematis Jackmanii ; 
e, Jasminum officinale ; /, Rose (Crimson Rambler) ; o-, Clematis Jackmanii 
alba (white) ; h, Rose (Carmine Pillar). 

Herbaceous Borders: i. Mauve — Galega orientalis or Clematis. 2. Orange — 
Hemerocallis aurantiaca cr Inula Royleana. 3. Sulphur yellow — Viola Ardwell 
Gem. 4. Sky blue — Linum narbDuense. 5. White — Antirrhinum White Bedder 
or Arabis albida fl. pi. 6. Scarlet — Geum coccineum fl. pi. 7. Pale yellow — 
Gaillardia Coronation. 8. Soft blue — Aster acris nana. 9. Creamy white — 
Chrysanthemum Ralph Curtis. 10. Salmon pink — Chrysanthemum Sam Barlow. 
II. Golden yellow — Helenium pumilum magnificum. 12. Carmine — Gaillardia 
lona or Gazelle. 13. Rose — Geranium Endressi or Incarvillea Delavavi. 
14. Blush pink — Viola Blushing Bride. 15. Clear yellow — Henierocallis flava. 
16. White — Galtonia candicans, carpeted with Gypscphiia. 17. Lilac mauve — 
Phlox divaricata. 18. Greyish white — Santolina incana. 19. Bluish purple — 
Lupinus polyphyllus Purple King. 20. Creamy yellow — Dactylis glcmerata 
aurea. 21. Orange — Erigeron aurantiacus or Glaucium tricolor. 22. Vi let 
purple — Dracocephalum speciosum. 23. Light yellow — Oenothera biennis La- 
marckiana. 24. Chestnut — Pansy Eros. 25. Rich yellow — Vicla Kingcup. 
26. Pink — Statice graminifolia or S. incana. 27. Blue — Salvia patens. 28. Gclden 
yellow — Helianthus grandiflorus. 29. Light blue — Campanula pusilla or C. 
pumila. 30. Rose pink — .-Ethionema grandiflora. 31. Yellow and carmine — 
Cytisus Andi'eanus. 32. Pale yellow — Thalictrum augustifolium or T. elatum. 
33. Silvery — Phalaris arundinacea variegata. 34. Pale yellow — Thalictrum 
minus affine. 35. White — Prunella grandiflora alba. 36. Scarlet — Delphinium 
cardinale. 37. White — -Campanula pyramidalis alba. 38. Lavender blue — 
Aubri2tia deltiidea. 39. Sulphur yellow — Auricula sulphurea. 40. Blue — Iris 
geimanica cnsrulea or Aquilegia glandulosa. 41. Metallic blue — Eryngium 
amethystinum. 42. Silvery — Molinia cserulea variegata. 43. Bright blue — 
Ajuga Brockbanki. 

Shrubbery Border — Trees: 44. Ailantus glandulosa, natural arch. 45. Weep- 
ing Birch. 46. Prunus Pissardi. 47. Prunus Amygdalus. 48. Double Cherry. 
49. Pyrus fljribunda. 50. Laburnum alpinum. Shrubs: 51. Phillyrea mecli- 
oleasfolia. 52. Veronica Traversii. 53. Osmanthus illicifclius. 54. Ligustrum 
japonicum. 55. Holly, Waterer's g..)ld-striped. 56. Garrya elliptica. 57. Es- 
callonia macrantha. 58. Cotcneaster Simonsii. 59. Phillyrea augustifolia. 
60. Holly, silver. 61. Berberis dulcis nana. 62. Laurestinus. 63. Eurya lati- 
folia variegata. 64. Choisya ternata. 65. Olearia Haastii. 66. Berberis Jamie- 
sonii. 67. Genista albus durus. 68. Berberis Darvvinii. 69. Cotoneaster 
angustifolia. 70. Ribes sanguineum fl. pi. 71. Ribes Beatoni. 72. Cydonia 
japonica. 73. Cornus Mas aurea elegantissima. 74. Forsythia viridissima. 
75. Syringa persica. 76. Philadelphus coronarius. jj. Weigela rosea. 
78. Viburnum Opulus sterile. 79. Spanish Broom. 80. Thorn, double Scarlet 
(standard). 81. Aucuba japonica. 82. Handsworth broad-leaved Box. 83. Ber- 
beris dulcis. 84. Portugal Laurel. 85. Ilex Aquifolium fructu-lutea. 86. Aucuba 
japonica vera. 87. Ilex Aquifolium elegantissima stricta. 88. Portugal Laurel. 
89. Colchican Laurel. 90. Ligustrum ovalifolium aureum elegantissimum. 
91. Portugal Laurel, round-leaved. 92. Berberis Aquifolium. 93. Buxus lati- 
folia nova. 94. Aucuba longifolia variegata. 95. Holly, Handsvvorthiensis. 
96. Ruscus racemosus. 97. Phillyrea latifolia. 98. Ribes aureum. 

Border tiext Laton — Trees : 99. Viburnum tcmentosum plicatum. 100. 
Weigela Eva Rathke loi. Sophora japonica pendula. 102. Prunus sinensis 
rosea fl. pi. 103. Amelanchier canadensis. Shrubs: 104. Berberis stenophylla. 
105. Cornus florida rubra. 106. Lonicera fragrantissima. 107. Cydonia Maulei. 
108. Kerria laciniata. 109. Leycesteria formosa. no. Ceanothus Gloire de 
Versailles, in. Deutzia crenata candidissima. 112. Syringa aurea elegantis- 
sima. 113. Staphylea colchica. 114. Liquidaniber styraciflua. 115. Althaea 
Frutex. 116. Double Gorse. 117. Weigela rosea nana variegata. 118. Hy- 
drangea arborescens grandiflora alba. 119. Fuchsia Riccartoni. Clumps: 
120. Herbacecus Pae nies. 121. German Iris. 122. Japanese Pasonies. 123. 
lananese Iris. 12^. Everlasting Pea. 125. Torch Lilies. Five dots indicate 
Liliums, &c. 



l84 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



HERBACEOUS BORDER AT CORNER ON OUTSKIRTS 
OF LAWN, SHOWING SYSTEM OF ARRANGE- 
MENT OF PATCHES OF TALL AMONGST DWARF 

PLANTS 

Scale, I inch equals i6 feet. 

Border: i. Iris pallida variegata, carpeted with blue Viola. 2. Helianthus 
orgyalis. 3. Geranium sanguineuni. 4. Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pi. 5. Eulalia 
japonica zebrina. 6. Heucheras. 7. Hollyhocks. 8. Gaillardias. 9. Prunella 
Webbiana. 10. Statice altaica or S. latifolia. 11. Sedum spectabile. 12. Phlox 
Le Mahdi (blue). 13. Phalaris arundinacea variegata. 14. Potentilla nepalensis. 
15. Eulalia japonica variegata. 16. Inula glandulosa. 17. Monarda didyma. 
18. Bt cconia cordata. 19. Anemone japonica. 20. Kniphofia Pfitzeri or 
Triumph. 21. Anchusa italica, Dropmore variety. 22. Cimicifuga cordifolia. 
23. Buphthalmum salicifolium. 24. Buphthalmum speciosum. 25. Funkia Sie- 
boldiana major. 26. Lupinus polyphyllus Foxi. 

On Lawn : 27. Erica striata, edged with E. carnea or E. mediterranea nana. 
28. Ferula gigantea or F. Tingitana. 29. Rhododendron Catawbiense or R. 
ramosum varieties, edged with Festuca glauca. 30. Ginkgo biloba or Berberis 
nepalensis. 31. Pampas Grass. 32. Dimorphanthus niandschuricus (Aralia 
chinensis), gold or silver variety. 33. Azalea amoena varieties. 34. Arundo 
conspicua. 

Shrubbery Border: 35. Alliums. 36. Scilla (late flowering), such as S. cam- 
pan ulata. 37. Lily of the Valley. 38. Anemones (Alderborough), A. fulgens, 
and A. stellata. 39. Fritillarias. 40. Dog's-tooth Violets. 41. Lenten Roses. 
42. Muscari (Grape, Feather, Musk, and Starch Hyacinths). 43. Primroses. 
44. Trilliums. 45. Anemcne, St. Brigid. 46. Hepaticas. 47. Anemone apen- 
nina and A. nemorosa vars. 48. Chionodoxa and Scilla sibirica. 49. Snow- 
drops. 50. Winter Aconite. 51. Christmas Roses. 52. Hardy Cyclamen. The 
dots represent groups of Daffodils in fives; Meadow Saffron (Ctlchicums), 
interspersed in sevens. 

7';wj.- 53. Snowy Mespilus (Amelanchier) and Prunus Pissardii. 54. Almond 
(common and Double Sweet). 55. Laburnum (Golden and Purple flowering). 
56. Pvrus floribunda and P. baccata. 57. Cherry (Double-blossomed and Cera- 
sus hortensis rosea). 58. Thorn (double scarlet and double pink). 59. Acacia 
(Robinia inermis and R. Bessoniana). 60. Evergreen flowering shrubs, such as 
Aucubas (male and female), Berberis Darwini, Brooms, Laurestinus, Olearia, 
Garrya elliptica. 61. Deciduous flowering shrubs, such as Dogwood (Cornus), 
Forsythia, Hydrangea, Syringa, Ribes, Philadelphus, Spirtea. 62. Dwarf shrubs, 
such as Butcher's Broom' (Ruscus), Daphne Laureola, D. Mezereum, D. pontica 
and Hypericums. 




2 B 



vD 



86 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



SIMPLE ROCKERY— GROUND PLAN AND SECTION 
Scale, I inch equals 24 feet. 

Section : a, rock with thin edge, so that overhanging plant may be planted on 
its edge ; b, an inch or two, or several inches space, with plenty of soil for plant 
to root in ; c, patches of soil for dwarf carpeting plants ; d, limited space for 
plants with small requirements as to soil and position ; e, paths, formed of slabs 
of rock or cement concrete ; /, wide patches of soil for carpeting or other plants ; 
g, position for plants that require an elevated one and restricted to soil room ; 
h, background for larger plants. 

Ground Plan References — Plants: i. Primula cortusoides alba magnifica, 
edged with P. c. Vivid. 2. P. c. Beauty of Sals, edged with P. c. grandiflora. 
3. Lithospermum prostratum with Achillea tomentosa bordering. 4. ^-Etliionema 
grandiflora, --E. cordifolium, and /E. Kctschyanus. 5. Acajna myriophylla. 

6. Aubrietia deltoidea, A. d. Campbelli, A. d. Dr. Mules, A. d. Henderson!, any 
or all five, with Sisyrinchium grandiflorum dotted at back ne.xt front rock. 

7. Phlox subulata G. F. Wilson with P. s. nivalis on margin. 8. Helianthemum 
vars. 9. Muehlenbeckia axillaris. 10. Genista pilosa, G. procumbena, G. tri- 
quetra. 11. Oxalis floribunda rosea, O. f. alba. 12. Saxifraga Burseriana 
major, S. Boydi alba, S. Camposi, S. Stansfieldi, in patches, with, on margining 
rock — miniature hillocks supported with rock — S. sancta, S, Rhaei superba, 
S. oppositifolia splendens. 13. Iberis Gibraltarica superba, I. sempervivens 
fl. pi., 1. s. superba, I. s. Little Gem. 14. Hypericum reptans, with patches of 
Yucca filamentosa. 15. Gaultheria procumbens, Galax aphylla. 16. Sedum 
Heldreichi, G. montanum. 17. Arenaria balearica on damp rocks, Ramondia 
pyrenaica between the rock, and Arenaria graminifolia or A. montana as carpet- 
ing between. 18. Cytisus schipkaensis. 19. Gypsophila cerastioides or G. 
repens. 20. Sedum glaucum, S. album, S. lydium, S. stoloniferum, &c. , in 
patches. 21. Sempervivum Reginos Amalias, S. calcaratum, S. arachnoideum, 
S. Moggridgei, &c., with Cyclamen on border in dots. 22. Silene Schafta 
and Saponaria ocymoides splendens. 23. Geranium sanguineum, with G. s. 
album on each side. 24. Kniphofia caulescens, carpeted with Nepeta Glecoma 
variegata. 25. Alyssum saxatile compactum, A. s. fl. pi., A. gemonense sul- 
phureum. 26. Arabis albida grandiflora, A. a. fl. pi. 27. CEnothera casspitosa, 
CE. linearis, QE. macrocarpa. 28. Primula denticulata, P. Cashmeriana or 
Alpine Auriculas. 29. Veronica cupressoides, V. epacridea, V. salicornioides. 
30. Saxifraga longifolia and S. pyramiclalis dotted amongst Thymus lanugi- 
nosa, T. Montana, T. serpyllum coccineus. 31. Potentilla nepaulensis or 
Epimedium luteum, E. macranthum. 32. Phlox subulata Model, P. s. grandi- 
flora. 33. Erica Meciiterranea, E. M. verna, E. carnea. 34. Gentiana acaulis, 
G. verna. 35. Omphalodes verna, O. v. alba. 36. Campanula muralis or 
Hepatica in vars. 37. Lotus corniculatus fl. pi. 38. Nierembergia rivularis. 
39. Euphorbia Myrsinites or Fuchsia procumbens. 40. Cheiranthus AUioni 
(central part of rock), C. Harpur Crewe (between rock). 



SS8 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

ROCK GARDEN— GROUND PLAN AND SECTION 
Scale, I inch equals 45 feet. 

Ground Plan : a, head of stream ; i, cascade ; c, stepping-stones (forming path at 
points) ; d, pond ; i?, dropping well ; /, grotto ; g, steps (rough stone slabs) ; Jt, boulders 
in stream that may be used as stepping-stones ; i, paths ; /, grass, interspersed with 
Daffodils, Colchicum, Harebells, &c. ; /t, background of Alders and Birches, overhanging 
waterfall and rock at that part ; /, hillside shrubs ; m, dwarf Conifers ; «, water-side and 
bog plants. 

Section: o, outside connecting rockery, but not overhanging alpines, sub-alpme trees, 
and pigmy Conifers ; /, edging rock for Sempervivums, Sedums, Saxifragas, &c. ; q, raised 
paths with steps from lower levels, rising lo to 20 feet or as desired, formed of rough stone 
slabs or cement concrete ; r, large patches of one species or several of a genus ; s, site 
plants that like to grow between rocks ; /, position for plants to hang from face of rock ; 
«, shallow-rooted plant positions by water ; z', shallow water, about i foot, fed from water- 
fall, stream if desired taken under paths instead of stepping-stones ; w, place for Yuccas, 
Aloes, Agaves, dotted at intervals with carpeting plants between. 

Plants: i. Groundwork of Eranthis cilicica, dotted in patches with Crocus vars., 
Galanthus, Colchicums, and Dodecalheons in var. 2. Cyclamen coum vars., C. ibericum 
vars., C. repandum, C. neapolitanuni, dotted with Leucojum yernum, L. v. carpathicum, 
L. aestivum. 3. Iberis corra;folia, I. Little Cxem, I. sempervirens superba, I. s. fl. pi., 
dotted with Aubrietia Campbelli, A. Henderson!, A. Bougainvillea, and A. purpurea. 
4. Erythronium in van, dotted with patches of Allium cyaiieum, A. luteum, A. neapoli- 
tanum, A. Moly, A. ostrowskianum, and A. pedemontanum. 5. Chionodo.xa vars. in 
patches, carpeted with Antennaria tomentosa, and small rocks next path dot with clumps 
each of Iris reticulata, I. alata, I. persica vars., I. Bakeriana, and I. pumila vars. 
6. Ranunculus— Turban, Turko-Persian, and others ; next the rock and on rock. Cam- 
panula garganica vars., C. carpathica vars., C. piimila vars., and C. muralis. 7. Ane- 
mone coronaria vars., A. St. Bngid, A. fulgens vars., A. blanda, A. appenina vars., A. 
nemorosa Robinsoniana, &c., with Papaver alpinum and P. nudicaule vars. planted 
between. 8. Alyssum Gemonense sulphnreum, A. saxatile compactum, A. s. fl. pi., extend- 
ing to rock edging to 6. g. Arabis albida fl. pi., A. a. grandiflora, .A. rosea, A. aubrietoides, 
and the variegated forms, dotted with Aubrietia Fire King, A. Leichtlini, A. ISIoerheimi, 
A. Souv. de W. Ingram. 10. Muscari in variety, dotted between Oxalis Bowei as carpet ; 
rock edging, Sedums. 11. Groundwork, Sedum acre or S. glauca, dotted in variable 
patches of Sternbergia in var., Tulipa persica, T. Greigi, Fritillaria aurea, F. coccinea, F. 
meleagris vars., Scilla sibirica and var alba, Puschkinia libanotica compacta, SciUa bifolia 
vars. 12. Cerastium grandiflorum, C. tomentosum, Callirhoe involucrata, highest of 
rock on top, Genista pilosa, G. piostrata, G. tinctoria fl. pi., G. hispanica pumila 
dotted between creeping varieties, Cytisus Ardoinei, C. Kewensis, on face of rock (t in 
section) Corydalis lutea, C. capnoidcs, Linaria cymbalaria alba and variegated forms, L. 
hepaticaefolia, and dot Saxifraga longifolia and S. pyramidalis amongst them. 13. Patches 
of Arum italicum, with Narcissus dotted in patches between, viz., N. cyclamineus, N. bulbo- 
codium vars., N. minor plenus, N. triandrus vars. 14. Primula cortusoides and vars., 
with clumps of Camassia esculenta vars. and C. Leichtlini vars., &c. 15. Each side of 
cascade, Athyrium sp. and vars., with Scolopendrium vars. interspersed, and on rocks in 
passage to "dropping well" (here Hymenophyllum or Trichomanes) and grotto (here 
Osmunda sp.) other hardy Ferns. 16. Primula denticulata, P. Cashmeriana, P. involu- 
crata, P. Sikkimensis. 17. Adonis vernalis, A. v. albidus, .A. amurensis, A. a. fl. pi. 
18. .(Ethionema stylosa, M,. grandiflora, /E. cordifolia, /E. iberidium. 19. Primula acaulis 
vars., with Prunella Webbiana at corners, and Dactylis glomerata variegata between the 
former and latter. 20. Plumbago Larpentje. 21. Gnaphalium leontopodium, G. himalai- 
cum, and Gypsophila piostrata, G. cer.asioides, G. repens monstrosa. 22. Phlox canadensis 
Laphami, P. ovata caroliniana, P. stellaria, P. s. erubescens. 23. Phlox ama:na, P. fron- 
dosa, P. Nelsoni, P. nivalis, P. procumbens, P. verna, P. subulata (setacea), all between 
rocks. 24. Pentstemon glaber, P. heteiophyllus, P. ovatus, dotted amongst carpet of 
Oxalis lactiflora, or O. floribunda alba. 25. Central rock. Cotoneaster horizontalis ; outside 
rock, Lithospermums sp., with Thymus citriodorus (silver and golden vars.) amongst them. 
26. Ajnga Brockbanki in patches, Achillea umbellata, carpeting, Viola cornuta and V. 
pedata may be planted near the rock. 27. Daphne Cneorum, D. Blagayana, D. petraea. 
28. Ramondia pyrenaica alba, and on face of rock, or between rocks, Herniaria glabra or 
Arenaria montana as carpeting, and on rock. Thymus lanugin^isus, T. serpyllum, Nepeta 
glecoma vars., Lotus curniculatus fl. pi. 29. Tiarella cordifolia and Ourisia coccinea in 
patches, next to path dots of Hepatica angulosa and H. triloba vars., and a few patches of 
Funkia argentea variegata, F. aurea marmorata. 30. Silene Schafta, S. acaulis, S. alpestris, 
S. maritima vars., with Saponaria ocymoides vars. on rocks. 31. Veronica cupressoides, 
V. epacridea, and V. Hectori dotted on a carpet of V. gentianoides, V. inc^na, V. 
repens, V. prostrata, with next rock, Gentiana acaulis, G. verna in patches with Veronica 
incana adjoining or between. 32. Gentianas. 33. Potentilla formosa. 34. .Alpine Auri- 
culas. 35. (ILnothera macrocarpa, CE. taraxacifolia alba, QE. riparia, QE. eximea in patches 
amongst rocks, Acaena adscandens, A. inermis, A. sorbiflora, Androsace lanuginosa, A. 
sarmentosa, last two genera in patches among the CEnothera. 36. Terrestrial Orchids — 
Cypripediums and Orchis alone sufficient in their numerous sp. and vars. 37. Round edge 
of pond, Saxifraga peltata, S. sarmentosa, Carex tenuis and vars., Ophiopogon jaburan, 
O. spicatus dotted at intervals in the largest rock points, and between Sedums and Semper- 
vivums, Myosotis Rhesteineri. 38. Yuccas, Aloes, Agaves at intervals; Azalea procum- 
bens, Salix serphillifolia, Juniperus prostrata and vars., Ribes prostratum, Cotoneaster 



THE PERFECT GARDEN 



;89 



thymifolia, C. pyrenaica, for overhanging rocks and carpeting for the dot plants ; for rock, 
Muehlenbeckia axillaris, Helianthemums, Elxagnus macrophylla, Rhododendron alpine 
vars. , Polygala Chamaebuxus, P. purpurea, Galax aphylla, Gaultheria procumbens, Shortia 
galacifolia, Hypericum nummularifolia, H. repens, Lysimachia nummularia, Myosotis 
rupicola, M. azorica, Linnsea borealis. 




Outside the rock garden the following may be associated as connecting links : Hyperi- 
cum calycinum, H. Mnserianum, Trilliums, TroUius sp. and vars., Omphalodes verna and 
var. alba, Asperulas, Tulipa sylvestris. Foxgloves, Primroses, Vincas, Crown Imperials, 
Narcissi, Galtonia candicans, Scilla Hispanica vars., S. nutans vars., Iris sp. and vars., 
pigmy or dwarf Conifers and Bamboo (Arundinaria) pumila. 



390 THE PERFECT GARDEN 

ROSE GARDEN ON GRASS OR GRAVEL, PREFER- 
ABLY WITH STONE EDGING TO THE BEDS 

Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 24 feet. 

References: i. White cr creamy white varieties in the strip-beds forming 
breaks between the inner and outer designs. 2, Creamy yellow, white, &c. 
3. Maroon, dark crimson, deep rose, carmine reds. 4. Scarlet, vermilion, cerise. 
5. Rose, pink. 6. Hybrid Teas of the lighter shades — creamy white, creamy 
yellow, buff, silvery pink, blush and salmon pink. 7. Standards — weeping and 
ordinary type alternately, or a Rose hedge may be substituted. 

The central design above 8 is of Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and the outer design 
above 9 of Tea- and Hybrid Tea-scented Roses. Arches may be introduced at 10. 

If the garden is too large as shown, only the inner design and strips may be 
adopted ; the beds (5) in that case being of Hybrid Tea varieties, and standards 
and dwarfs alternately. 

Roses for Rose Garden 

1. White Pet (Polyanlha), Frau Karl Druschki (H.P.), both white. 

2. Bessie Brown (H.T.), creamy white ; Kaiserin A. Victoria (H.T.), cream 
and lemon ; Perle d'Or (Polyantha), creamy yellow and orange yellow. 

3. Hybrid Perpehials : A. K. Williams, carmine and red; Alfred Colomb, 
bright red ; Bent Cant, deep crimson ; Charles Lefebvre, velvety crimson ; Crown 
Prince, purple and crimson; Duke of Wellington, red, shaded crimson; J. B. 
Clark, blackish crimson and scarlet ; Marie Baumann, soft carmine red; Prince 
Arthur, deep crimson ; Madame Victor Verdier, bright crimson ; Ulrich Brunner, 
cherry red; G6n6ral Jacqueminot, dark crimson; Prince Camille de Rohan, 
crimson maroon ; Liberty (H.T. ), velvety crimson. 

4. Hybrid Perpetuals : Captain Hayward, intense scarlet; Duke of Edin- 
burgh, vermilion ; Dupuy Jamain, cerise ; Fisher Holmes, crimson scarlet ; Duke 
of Richmond (H.T. ), rich scarlet. 

5. Hybrid Perpett/als : Baroness Rothschild, light pink; Clio, flesh and 
rosy pink ; Margaret Dickson, white and pale flesh; Madame G. Luizet, silvery 
pink ; Merveille de Lyon, white, tinted pink ; Mrs. John Laing, rosy pink ; 
Mrs. Sharman Crawford, rosy pink; Susanne AL Rodocanachi, rose cerise. 

5. Hybrid Teas: Augustine Guinoisseau, white and pale rose; Mrs. W. J. 
Grant, rosy pink; La France, silvery rose ; Papa Gontier, rosy crimson ; C^cile 
Brunner (Polyantha), blush and pale pink. 

6. Hybrid Teas: Caroline Testout, silvery salmon pink; Gustave Regis, 
nankeen yellow ; Killarney, flesh white, suffused pale pink ; Madame Abel 
Chatenay, carmine rose and salmon ; Viscountess Folkestone, creamy pink and 
salmon pink; Madame Ravary, yellow and orange yellow; Marie van Houtte 
(T. ), white-tinted yellow, tipped rose. 

7. Standards : Aim^e Vibert, white; Caroline Testout, pink; Frau Karl 
Druschki, white; Fisher Holmes, crimson; La France, pale silvery rose; La 
Tosca, salmon and blush; Griiss an Teplitz, crimson; Gloire de Dijcn, creamy 
yellow; Madame Ravary, yellow, and shades; Mrs. John Laing, pink; Ulrich 
Brunner, cherry red ; W. A. Richardson, creamy yellow and orange. 

7. M'eeping Standards: Dorothy Perkins, rich pink; Lady Gay, rich pink; 
Hiawatha, crimson, white eye; Heiene, blush; Bennett's Seedling, white; Tea 
Rambler, coppery pink ; Alberic Barbier, pale buff. 

Hedge: Austrian Yellow, Austrian Copper, China in var. , Sweet Briar, Lord 
Penzance Briars, Rugosa, various. 

Wire Fence: Any of the Hybrid Perpetuals and Climbing Tea-scented, 
also Climbing Polyantha classed as pillar Roses. [See Arches Plan.) 



392 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



ROSE GARDEN OF BEDS AND ARCHES 
ON GRASS 

Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 24 feet. 

References : i. Portion of central pathway, either pillared or arched over, 
side parts arched and planted with Roses of light shades. 2. Parts of central 
path with pergola, planted with Roses of dark shades. 3. Portions of cross-path 
planted with arch or pergola Roses of pink and rose shades. 4. Encircling 
festoons planted with arch or pillar Roses of light pink and blush shades, or 
mixed all shades of colour throughout. 5. Tea- and Hybrid Tea-scented Roses. 
6. Hybrid Perpetual Roses. The darkest shades should be in the centre of the 
beds, with lighter shades on edges in both 5 and 6. If the pergola system be 
adopted, it would be advisable to increase the distance between the uprights 
from 6 to 9 feet, following a scale of i inch equals 36 feet, instead of i inch equals 
24 feet. 

Roses for Rose Garden of Beds and Arches on Grass 
Pillar or Arch Roses 

1. Light shades — Aim^e Vibert, white; Claire Jacquier, nankeen yellow; 
Gardeniseflora, white; Madame Alfred Carriere white, tinted yellow; Madame 
Pierre Cochet, golden yellow to yellowish white; Perle de Neige, snowy white ; 
Trier, creamy white; Queen of the Belgians, creamy white; Alberic Barbier, 
creamy white, shaded yellow ; Evergreen Gem, yellow to nearly white ; Jersey 
Beauty, pale yellow. 

2. Dark shades — Ards Pillar, velvety crimson ; Carmine Pillar, rosy carmine ; 
Crimson Rambler, crimson ; Fran9cis Crousse, crimson ; Longworth Rambler, 
light crimson ; Philadelphia Rambler, bright crimson ; Reine Olga de Wurtem- 
burg, vivid red; Lady Gay, rich pink ; Griiss an Teplitz, bright crimson ; Purple 
East, dark carmine purple; the Lion, rich crimson; the Wallflower, rcsy car- 
mine lake. 

3. Pink and rosy-pink shades — Dawson's Rose, rosy pink ; Lady Waterlow, 
salmon pink ; Psyche, pale rosy pink ; Tea Rambler, coppery pink to salmon 
pink; the Farquhar, rosy pink; Mdlle. Eugenie Verdier, deep salmon pink; 
Minnehaha, deep rose. 

4. Light pink and blush shades — Blush Rambler, soft pink ; Eleanor 
Berkeley, pale pink; Mrs. F. W. Flight, pink, white centre; Papillon, pink and 
white; Alice Gray, white, tinted pink; Leopoldine d'Orleans, white, tipped 
red ; Debutante, soft pink ; Leuchstern, pink, white centre ; Carissima, delicate 
flesh; Pink Roamer, pink, white centre; South Orange Perfection, white, 
striped pink. 



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;94 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



WATER LILY POND (Cemented) 
Ground Plan and Section — Scale, i inch equals 30 feet. 

Ground Plan: a, stream; b, pond; c, water lily basins cr islands as de- 
sired ; d, side water lily stations ; 'e, shallow- water plants' receptacles ; /, bridge. 

Section: g, clay (desirable if ground soft, rammed hard); k, concrete, 
cemented, faced with neat cement and a little sand and washed with liquid 
cement; h, shallow-water plants' basin (one tier of stone with joints open to 
hold rubble and soil) ; i, water lily basin (one tier of rock as rubble and soil 
retainer ; or, /, island, rocked and filled with rubble to water level, then soil ; 
k, side water lily basin (one tier of rock with open joints to held rubble and soil) ; 
/, water level ; 7n, grass; n, paths. 

References to Plants : 3. Inlet and outlet shallow-water plants — Aponogeton 
distachyon, Butomus umbellatus, Calla palustris, Pontederia cordata, Cyperus 
longus, Sagittaria japcnica fl. pL, Villarsia nymphseoides, &c. 1-8. Water Lilies 
selected from Nymphaea atropurpureum, N. EUisiana, N. Gladstoniana, N. 
glcriosa, N. James Brydon, N. Marliacea chromatella, N. M. ignea, N. M. albida, 
N. odorata, N. o. sulphurea, N. tuberosa, N. t. rubra, N. Laydekeri rosea 
(thirteen of the very best). 9. Narrow^ belt of Bamboos — Arundinaria Simoni, 
Phyllostachys henonis, P. mitis, P. nigra, P. viride glaucescens, with Arundi- 
naria japonica and A. palmata at outside. 10. Rheum palmatum tanghuticuni. 
II. Spirjea Aruncus or S. gigantea. 12. Spireea palmata or S. venusta. 
13. Ginkgo biloba. 14. Taxodium distichum. 15. Phcrmium tenax. 16. Epilo- 
biuni angustifolium, edged with E. album or Lythrum virgatum Rose Queen. 
17. Alnus glutinosa aurea. 18. Lilium pardalinum, edged with Lobelia syphi- 
litica. 19. Dimorphanthus mandchuricus. 20. Arundo conspicua, 21. Salix 
Caprea pendula. 22. Camassia esculenta or Arundo Donax, edged with Elymus 
arenarius. 23. Eulalia japonica zebrina. 24. Chamaercps excelsa or humilis. 
25. Aralia japonica (spinosa). 26. Ferula glauca Neapolitanum. 27. Lilium 
giganteum. 28. Erianthus Ravennae. 29. Salix babylonica. Semi-aquatic 
plants at edge of lake — 30. Scirpus P. zebrinus. 31. Lysimachia clethrcides or 
Iris Pseud-acorus variegata. 32. Caltha palustris monstrosa plena. 33. Osmunda 
regalis. 34. Saxifraga peltata or Primula rosea grandiflora. 35. Rodgersia 
podophylla or Funkia Siebcldiana majcr. 36. Juncus effusus aureus striatus 
or Glyceria spectabilis variegata. 37. Polygonum Sieboldi or P. Sachalinense 
to hang over streamlet. 






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THE PERFECT GARDEN 



WATER LILY POND (CLAYED)— GROUND PLAN 
AND SECTION 

Scale, I inch equals 30 feet. 

Ground Plan: a, stream ; b, pond; c, island, planted with Weeping Willows 
or some of plants named under </; d, island, planted with Alnus glutinosa 
foliis auriis, Sambucus canadensis, Betula alba pendula, Cornus alba Spathi, 
C. sanguinea, Tamarix vars. , Ruscus racemosus (Rheum, Gunnera, and Poly- 
gonum giant species look well as a mass, and Elasagnus macrophylla is grand for 
margin planting) ; e, Water Lilies — in addition to list given under Cement Pond 
to select from — Nymphaea Frcebellii, N. odorata rubra, N. pygmasa alba, N. p. 
helveola, N. sanguinea, N. Robinsoni, Nuphar advena, N. luteum. 

Plants on Land: i. Iris Kasmpferi vars. 2. Cyperus longus. 3. Glyceria 
spectabilis aurea. 4. Iris Pseudo-Acorus and var. variegata. 5. Scirpus lacus- 
tris. 6. Gentiana pneumonanthe and G. asclepidiana. 7. Cardamine pratensis 
fi. pi. 8. Megasea afghanica or M. gigantea (border of them). g. Acorus 
graminea variegata or Care.x riparia variegata. 10. Osmunda regalis. 11. Iris 
aurea and Myosotis palustris. 12. Spiraea Ulmaria fl. pi. and S. palmata. 
13. Trollius Fortunei fl. pi. 14. Lythrum roseum superbum. 15. Primula 
japonica. 16. Bambusa metake. 17. Arundinaria nitida. 18. A. Simoni or 
Phyllostachys henonis. 19. Bambusa palmata. 20. Phyllostachys nigra or P. 
mitis. 21. Phyllostachys Kumasasa. 22. Rheum sp. or Musa Basjo. 23. Gun- 
nera manicata. 24. Podophyllum peltatum or Emodi. 25. Phragmitis com- 
munis variegata. 26. Ferula gigantea, F. glauca, F. nudiflora. 27. Spiraea 
Lindleyana or S. Aitchisoni. 28. Gynerium argenteum albo lineata. 29. Arundo 
Donax variegata or A. macrophylla. 30. Ligularia macrophyllus. 31. Oreo- 
come CandoUei. 32. Lilium canadense, L. Grayi, L. maritimum, L. pardalinum, 
L. superbum, any of these or all mi.xed. 

Section : f, clay, 6 to 9 inches if puddled ; g. Water Lily pond, preferably 
with stone retainers for soil (see cemented pond) ; h, island ; i, path. 



;98 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



PLAIN PERGOLA BOUNDING LAWN-TENNIS 
GROUND 

Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 24 feet. 
Elevations— Scale, i inch equals 12 feet. 

Ground Plan : a, path, if simple arches, indicated by dotted lines, may be 
omitted ; b, small circles, posts ; c, portable seats. 

Elevations : A, iron arch pergola: d, path; e, footings of arches, stone if let 
into, cement concrete if iron footings ; /, ground level ; g, distance from ground 
level 8 feet to longitudinal lowest bar ; //, top wires, all galvanised and painted 
one coat lead paint. B, wooden cross-bar pergola : i, posts, portion inserted in 
soil creosoted or charred and gas tarred ; j, cross-bar, thinned at back to fit face 
of posts and securely nailed 8 feet from ground level ; k, longitudinal rods, 
placed on cross-bars and secured to posts ; /, light cover on top rods afifi.xed to 
cross-bars; m, path. Simple arches are formed of the parts shown in front of 
the elevation, omitting the longitudinal rods, the path {m) in that case not being 
necessary, the grass running through. 



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400 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



RUSTIC PERGOLAS— GROUND PLAN AND 
ELEVATIONS 

Scales : Ground Plan, i inch equals 24 feet ; Elevations, i inch 
equals 12 feet. 

Ground Plan: i. arching square from post to post, cross-ways and length- 
wise. 2. Arching squares in both directions from central square. 3. Arching 
central square and from post to post around, forming four long and four short 
sides of cctagon. 4. Arching by crcss-bar to each pair of posts ; all arches or 
cress- and Icngitudinal-bars indicated by dotted hnes. If formed, as shown, 
without top or roofing bars the arrangement may be on grass throughout, but if 
roofed and continued longitudinally, true pergola fashion, there must be a gravel 
path (see Sections). 

Arrangement for planting with Roses for colour effect: i. ^, crimson at 
centre shading to rose ; B, pink cr blush ; C, light pink ; D, white or creamy 
white ; E, creamy yellow and orange shades. 2. A and B, all red ; C and D, 
white or blush; and E, yellow shades. 3. A, scarlet; B, vermilion; C, D, E, 
white, creamy white or creamy yellow. 4. D, four corners — scarlet or vermilion, 
A and B, the centre blush including C\ E, white shades. Mixed, wrong for 
effect ; varieties selected from list given with Rose Garden for pillars, &c. 

Elevations: F, Flat top: a, posts 8 feet above ground, 2 feet in ground, 
bedded and surrounded by cement concrete, b, necessary on soft ground and to 
secure stability of posts ; c, cross-bars, halved and fitted on top of posts at points 
of junction; d, side bars, secured to cross-bars; e, central longitudinal top bar, 
all securely nailed ; f, path, necessary if rcof system here shown is adopted ; g, bed 
prepared for plant. 

G, span-roof: h, posts; i, span pieces from roof bearers; j, tie bar; k, side 
bars ; /, ridge bar ; m, facia posts, sometimes employed at entrance to pergola 
and faced with rustic oak (peeled) limbs; n, path; o, cement concrete, not less 
than 18 inches broad, for posts to rest on, and for surrounding them to ground 
level. 




2 C 



SHRUBBERY AND PLANTING ARRANGEMENT 
Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 75 feet. 

References : r. Rhododendron Hybrids arranged in contrasting and blend- 
ing cclours, with tall standards dotted at intervals to relieve monotonous flatness, 
irt. Dwarf species and varieties such as R. raceraosum, R. hirsutum, R. praecox, 
R. ferrugineuni, R. caucasicum vars., R. Nobleanum vars. , Early Gem, &c. 

2. Daphne Mezereum atro-rubescens, centre patch; two outside, D. M. alba. 

3. Laburnum sp. and vars. , with Berberis Aquifolium between, and patches of 
Forsythias in frunt of 3 and 4. 4. Crata;gus Oxyacantha vars. and other sp. , 
white distributed amongst the coloured both as regards blossom and fruit (haws), 
with Buxus sempervirens (on each side of 3) between. 5. Daphniphylluni 
glaucescens, single specimen. 6. Piiorniiuni tenax, clumps. 7. Azalea amoena 
vars., edged Euonymus radicans vars. 8. Pteonia, herbaceous vars., with Lilium 
and Crown Imperials between. 9. Corylus Avellana purpurea with three 
C. A. aurea back and sides. 10. Pyrus floribunda atrosanguinea, P. Malus 
Scheideckerii, P. M. Elise Rathke, with Berberis Darwini betw<!en. 11. Ce.asus 
Padus ; undergrowth, Spirtea aritefolia. 12. Cupressus Lawsoniana var. , 
Stewarti (golden), single specimen. 13. Azalea pontica, A. Mollis, and A. sin- 
ensis hybrids, with Liliums planted between. 14. Cornus (Benthamia) Kousa ; 
undergrowth, Euonymus japonicus. 15. Cytisus albus. 16. Amygdalus com- 
munis amara. 17. A. persica fl. pi., with Osmanthus ilicifolius between. 
i8. Amelanchier in var. ; undergrowth, Symphoricarpus racemosus. 19. Weigela 
vars. 20. Cupressus macrocarpa lutea. 21. Pampas Grass, single specimen. 
22. Ericas, Menziesias, dwarf Andromedas. 23. Deutzia gracilis and other 
small sp. and vars. 24. Cerasus, double white. 25. Spiraea Anthony Waterer. 
26. Taxus buccata fastigiata aurea variegata. 27. Hydrangea hortensis rosea 
and other dwarf sp. and vars. 28. Pyrus floribunda atrosanguinea, P. spec- 
tabilis and plena; undergrowth, Laurestinus. 29. Olcaria Gunni or O. Haasti, 
or O. stellulata. 30. Viburnum Opulus sterile ; groundwork, Aucuba japonica 
maculata. 31. Spircea Douglasi and similar sp. 32. Ceanothus Veitchianus, or 
C. azureus Gloire de Versailles. 33. Retinospora plumosa aurea. 34. Lilacs, 
Box undergrowth. 35. Weigelas in var. 36. Tree Pa?onies (Japanese vars. ) 
36(2. Cytisus Andreanus and C. prsecox. 37. Pyrus prunifolia and other Crabs, 
with Philadelphus vars. between. 38. Prunus sp. and vars., with Buxus 
balearica. 39. Cydonia japonica vars. or Ribes vars. 40. Thuia gigantea 
aurea. 41. Buddleia variabilis Veitchiana or B. globosa. 42. Rosmarinus 
officinalis and Lavendula spica New Dwarf. 43. Yucca recurvata. 44a. Ferula 
communis or other sp. , or Eulalia japonica zebrina. 44. Shelter Belt: Pinus 
austriaca. Evergreen Oak, Golden and .'Silver Sycamores, Purple Beech, Fern- 
leaved Beech, Golden and Silver Elm, Acacias (Robinia) Birches, Populus 
monilifera canadensis aurea, Quercus coccinea. Hollies, and Pinus laricio and 
P. ponderosa. 45. Archway with openings (pergola fashion) at intervals, grass 
on each side; Lime (general favourite), Sycamore, and Chestnut suitable; 
Robinia (picturesque), Carya alba, and Purple Beech (very good), trained to 
iron (galvanised) arches, and after being covered supports taken away, the arch 
then formed by main branches, the growths pruned every year. iVute : the 
path is only shown in the plan 4 feet wide (as a minimum), hence may be in- 
creased to 6 feet or more as desired for promenading use. LawnTrees : 46. Abies 
(Pseudotsuga) Douglasii, A. D. glauca, A. D. taxifolia. 47. Abies (Picea) 
nobilis glauca. 47(7. Araucaria imbricata. 48. Retinosporas. 49. Cedrus 
Deodara. 49(Z. C. D. verticillata glauca. 50. Catalpa bignonioides. 51. Picea 
pungens glauca pcndula. 52. Wellingtonia gigantea pendula. 53. Thuia Lobbii, 
T. L. superba, Thuyopsis (Cupressus) borealis. 54. Wellingtonia (Sequoia) 
gigantea, Taxodium sempervirens, T. s. glauca. 55. Cryptomeria japonica 
elegans. 56. Cupressus macrocarpa, C. m. lutea, C. m. Crippsi. 57. Juniperus 
virginiana Schntiii and other vars. 58. Abies (Picea) Pinsap;) glauca. 59. Pinus 
cembra. 60. Mi.rus alba pendula or Paulownia imperialis. 61. Retinospora 
Sanderi. 62. Cupressus Lawsoniana vars. 

The shelter belt (44) is imperative for a bleak situation, and is best arranged 
in groups — not rows of one variety at equal distances, but a group of, say, 
Austrian Pine with Silver Birch on each side ; Evergreen Oak with Silver or 
G jlden Elm; Purple Beech with Populus monilifera canadensis aurea; Pinus 
ponderosa and Laiix Krempferi, and so on. 



404 THE PERFECT GARDEN 



WALL-ENCLOSED SEMI-URBAN OR SUBURBAN 
FRUIT GARDEN WITH GLASS HOUSES 

Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 45 feet. 

Glass Department : a, cart-road entrance from public road ; l>, yard, f(jr turn- 
ing-rocm, compost stacking, and tpen shed ; c, stol<ery ; d, potting shed ; e, store- 
room ; /, fruit room; g, early vinery; h, tig house; i, early peach house; 
j, Muscat grape house; k, late vinery ; /, outside borders; w, succession peach 
house (trees, low standards, planted out if desired, or trellis trained) ; 71, < rchard 
house ; o, strawberry house, tomatoes following on ; /, tomato house ; q, cucum- 
ber house ; r, melon house ; s, succession pine-apple house ; t, fruiting pine-apple 
house ; ti, cinder and ashes beds for standing plants in pots on, when needed to 
place outdoors. 

Outdoor Arrangement : v, south aspect cf north boundary wall — i, Peaches 
and Nectarines; 2, Apricots, one very early Cherry and one very early dessert 
Plum (all dwarf trained). 70, East aspect of west boundary wall— choice dessert 
Cherries and Plums, x, West aspect of east boundary wall — Pears, y, North 
aspect of south boundary wall — Morello and other culinary Cherries with culinary 
Plums ; z, Black Mulberry; all wall trees dwarf trained. 

I. Double horizontal cordon Apples (continued whole length of borders 
if desired). 2. Three-branch (toasting-fork) cordon Gooseberries, choice dessert 
varieties. 3. Three-branch (toasting-fork) cordon dessert Apple trees. 4. Three- 
branch (toasting-fork) cordon Pear trees; these and 2 and 3 trained to espaliers 

5 to 6 feet high. 5. Espalier Apples (horizontal trained). 6. Espalier Pears 
(horizontal trained). 7. Bush or pyramid Apples. 8. Pyramid Pears. 9. Low 
standard Plum trees. 10. Low standard Apple trees on dwarfing (Doucin) 
stock. II. Raspberries. 12. Loganberries and Blackberries. 13. Quinces, 
Medlars, Dwarf Walnut, and Cob-nut and Filbert (low standards). 14. Goose- 
berries. 15. Black Currants. 16. Red and White Currants. 17. Fruit tree 
pergola over path (Apple, Pear, and Plum trees), double vertical cordons pre- 
ferable ; height of arches (semicircular), 9 feet at ape.x above ground; sides, 

6 feet high. 18. Arch of Parsley-leaved Blackberry. 19. Alpine Strawberries 
(St. Joseph). 20. Late Strawberries. 21. Main Crop Strawberries. 22. Early 
Strawberries. 23. Outdoor Tomatoes. A. Private entrance. Walks stone- 
edged, or tiles with broad footsteps ; gravel on paths, or preferably asphalted. 



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THE PERFECT GARDEN 



FRUIT PLANTATION, MIXED 

(AnouT Two Acres) 
Ground Plan — Scale, i inch equals 40 feet. 

References: a, boundary fence (quick), or, in sheltered position, unclimbable 
iron or barbed wire ; b, entrance gate ; c , cart road ; d, headlands. Trees, ^c. : 
r, Damsons and Bullaces, standards, 12 feet apart, with pyramids or Cosford 
and Pearson's Prolific Nuts between ; /, Flemish and Kentish Red Cherries, 
standards, with pyramids (on Mahaleb) between; £■, Nuts (Kentish Cob), 12 feet 
apart, with Gcosebcrries between temporarily ; /t, Phmis, standards, 15 feet 
apart, with bush or pyramid (temporary) between : i and 2, Quinces and Medlars 
as desired; i, Gooseberries or Currants (temporary), 6 feet apart; J, Currants, 
portion White as desired; k, Pears, standards, 20 feet apart, and pyramids 
midway of distance, and temporary bush. Gooseberry or Currant, between 
Pears; /, Black Currants, 6 feet apart; m, Apples, standards, 20 feet apart, 
bush or pyramid midway of distance, and temporary bush, Gooseberry or 
Currant between Apples; n, Gooseberries, 6 feet apart; o, Red Currants, 6 feet 
apart ; /, Cherries, standards, 20 feet apart, pyramids midway on Mahaleb, and 
Gooseberries or Currants between Cherries; ^.Loganberry and Blackberry; 
r, Raspberry. 



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